Ryan Alexander
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- Time of past OR future Camino
- Eternal Now
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I am afraid it has been this way since at least 2012 (my first camino) and is across Spain, not just along the camino routes. The general reason given is fear of theft - most churches in Spain contain valuable artefacts of one kind or another. Another reason is fear of vandalism. Depopulation and a decline in religious observance mean that many churches are rarely if ever visited or used. We spoke to one priest forlornly sitting outside a church waiting for any locals who needed his services (he was more than happy for us to inspect the inside of the church) who told us he was responsible for 28 parishes. So I have mixed feelings about this. It is not realistic to let these often isolated buildings stand wide open and unattended, but at the same time the church could perhaps be a bit more open and welcoming, e.g. by having a local custodian with a key and a phone number on the door you could contact or opening at set times (which they sometimes do). No easy answer, I fear. We can only be thankful for those special occasions when we do find ourselves in one of those special places.Over 15 days into this pilgrimage so far and the majority of the holy buildings have been closed, can anyone give more insight or share their own thoughts please? Is this the same situation on other routes and the French way in particular? Regardless of the time they always seem to be closed, it is very frustrating as it's a massive part of making pilgrimage for me personally, visiting holy sites and honouring the sacred energy present that exists within these buildings and is primary to them, the buildings are a secondary feature built on top and reappropriated by the religious order of the age. The clergy are stewards for these sites and supposed keepers/defenders of the faith but the doors remain closed, i think it is high time more questions are asked, know them by their fruit rings true here.
It is not realistic to let these often isolated buildings stand wide open and unattended, but at the same time the church could perhaps be a bit more open and welcoming, e.g. by having a local custodian with a key and a phone number on the door you could contact or opening at set times (which they sometimes do). No easy answer, I fear. We can only be thankful for those special occasions when we do find ourselves in one of those special places.
The beaches that the Norte passes bring a lot of sometimes rowdy tourist traffic - more than a lot of caminos. Another reason to take care of valuables, and keep the place locked..Use some Spanish phrases to locate the local keykeeper and then ask if you can view the church. Comments on the forum say that generally you will be allowed to. Ask where you can leave some money and give a big thanks
There is always someone with the key, and they will be immensely pleased and proud to show you round. But it will take time to find them. I think many pilgrims would just like some quiet time for prayer and contemplation. It would be nice if they could just slip in to a church and sit or pray alone for a while. I think that is what the OP regrets, and I don't have an answer for them.The beaches that the Norte passes bring a lot of sometimes rowdy tourist traffic - more than a lot of caminos. Another reason to take care of valuables, and keep the place locked..
Someone will have the key, though. And often they are happy to show pilgrims into the church- so find out who they are and get in touch. I've been able to get in to an otherwise locked church that way, and once on the San Olav I met the mayor of the village in a bar and he not only showed me the church btu gave me a tour of the village.
We are currently on the Camino Frances…we are in Villa Franca Montes D’Oca, walking for almost 2 weeks, and we’ve found most of the churches have been open. When we walked the Camino Portuguese last March, the majority of churches were closed. We’ve been very grateful to be able to slip in to the churches and offer a quick prayer.Over 15 days into this pilgrimage so far and the majority of the holy buildings have been closed, can anyone give more insight or share their own thoughts please? Is this the same situation on other routes and the French way in particular? Regardless of the time they always seem to be closed, it is very frustrating as it's a massive part of making pilgrimage for me personally, visiting holy sites and honouring the sacred energy present that exists within these buildings and is primary to them, the buildings are a secondary feature built on top and reappropriated by the religious order of the age. The clergy are stewards for these sites and supposed keepers/defenders of the faith but the doors remain closed, i think it is high time more questions are asked, know them by their fruit rings true here.
I agree, there were more open churches on the Frances last year than on the Norte this yearOn the Francés, this summer, I had the chance to find a lot of churches opened and stopped in each one for a short time to sit and pray. Almost every day, I found at least on place to stop.
We have been walking the CF for about 4 weeks. Currently in Arzúa.Over 15 days into this pilgrimage so far and the majority of the holy buildings have been closed, can anyone give more insight or share their own thoughts please? Is this the same situation on other routes and the French way in particular? Regardless of the time they always seem to be closed, it is very frustrating as it's a massive part of making pilgrimage for me personally, visiting holy sites and honouring the sacred energy present that exists within these buildings and is primary to them, the buildings are a secondary feature built on top and reappropriated by the religious order of the age. The clergy are stewards for these sites and supposed keepers/defenders of the faith but the doors remain closed, i think it is high time more questions are asked, know them by their fruit rings true here.
We are currently in Mondeñedo on the Del Norte.Over 15 days into this pilgrimage so far and the majority of the holy buildings have been closed, can anyone give more insight or share their own thoughts please? Is this the same situation on other routes and the French way in particular? Regardless of the time they always seem to be closed, it is very frustrating as it's a massive part of making pilgrimage for me personally, visiting holy sites and honouring the sacred energy present that exists within these buildings and is primary to them, the buildings are a secondary feature built on top and reappropriated by the religious order of the age. The clergy are stewards for these sites and supposed keepers/defenders of the faith but the doors remain closed, i think it is high time more questions are asked, know them by their fruit rings true here.
We have been walking the CF for about 4 weeks. Currently in Arzúa.
Our experience has been that the churches are generally open between 10 and 12. And typically later in the afternoons around 4pm through the evening (after mass if it is on). Some also do specific tours (eg monastery at Samos).
There are some religious buildings that don’t open (eg the Capel of San Roque in Melide).
Keep an eye out for open times posted on doors. If there is a tourist information office in the town check with them. Hospitaleros may also be able to help.
Also there are brochures for dioceses with mass times etc available. Maybe check the websites.
Hope this helps
Buen CaminoIgrexa de Santa Eulalia de Arca
If you are in Arzúa tonight you are most likely in O Pedrouzo tomorrow. Church Igrexa de Santa Eulalia de Arca did a pilgrim mass last year and we will look out for it again in two days time (we are in Sobrado) It's unique because the alter is a massive scallop shell.We have been walking the CF for about 4 weeks. Currently in Arzúa.
Our experience has been that the churches are generally open between 10 and 12. And typically later in the afternoons around 4pm through the evening (after mass if it is on). Some also do specific tours (eg monastery at Samos).
There are some religious buildings that don’t open (eg the Capel of San Roque in Melide).
Keep an eye out for open times posted on doors. If there is a tourist information office in the town check with them. Hospitaleros may also be able to help.
Also there are brochures for dioceses with mass times etc available. Maybe check the websites.
Hope this helps
Buen Camino
I find if you stop and look around you are in his best place,I have not walked that route specifically. But in general, I think you will find many buildings/sites are closed. Probably the same across most routes? (certainly the CF)
I think there are a number of reasons. For churches, a lack of priests, meaning they have to cover a number of parishes. And also many of the buildings are cared for by local elderly inhabitants and may have very limited opening hours.
Some of the villages have been severely depopulated over the years due to economic decline, as people move to the cities to find work.
I'm sure Covid must be having an impact too........
When I find some holy buildings/sites open, I am always very grateful.
The 'sacred energy' I find along the way, all around me, in every step......
But I see you have walked the CP and CF in the past.
Are you finding the Norte has a lot more sites closed by comparison?
If you are in Arzúa tonight you are most likely in O Pedrouzo tomorrow. Church Igrexa de Santa Eulalia de Arca did a pilgrim mass last year and we will look out for it again in two days time (we are in Sobrado) It's unique because the alter is a massive scallop shell.
Try to visit, even to see the a
Mass times are usually posted at the door of the church. Be sure to know the days of the week in Spanish and the 24hr clock.
-Paul
Thanks for the red hearts , I am missing the peace of the Camino very much.I find if you stop and look around you are in his best place,
Definitely. Not sure about hijacked but when holy buildings are built generally they are to venerate the sacred energy emanating from that spot is my understanding. Good book worth a readI hold the church key in our little town.
We open the church every morning in the summer, from 8 am to 1 p.m.
Hundreds of pilgrims pass by. Usually fewer than 20 will stop.
Our priest lives 25 km away, and cares for 9 parishes. He does his best to offer a Mass every couple of weeks in our little town, and we are grateful to still have one.
The desires of passing "pilgrims" and curiosity-seekers who feel there's something holy in there and the current church has hijacked its power? Keep moving, brother. The juju is all around you if you have a feel for it.
Entitled?I walked the Norte in 2017, and happily discovered that almost every town had one church with Mass in the evening, usually, but not always, around 7:00 or 7:30 pm. The church would open before then, and remain open briefly after as well. The time was usually posted.
As for what the church "should" do...Please remember that Spain, and the towns and villages we pass through, do not exist for our pleasure. The people of Spain are generally wonderful in my experience. But the idea that each town should leave someone constantly on call on the off chance, a pilgrim might want to visit, pray, or simply tour a church is -- dare I suggest it -- entitled?
Sadly I find nothing amusing in it. As someone who used to have overall responsibility for the safety and upkeep of a couple of churches I am all too aware that times have changed. There may have been a time in the past where a general respect for sacred spaces kept them fairly safe from theft and vandalism. Unfortunately that is long past in most places.Entitled?Whatever floats your boat. There was a time gods temple doors were open to all, clearly not anymore, just find it frustrating albeit amusing.
Even though my nearest church; which I can see even now two fields away from my bedroom window, has suffered theft and vandalism (paving and roof tiles unbelievably) in recent years; the small progressive local community choose to keep it unlocked and make it known as a place of refuge.Sadly I find nothing amusing in it. As someone who used to have overall responsibility for the safety and upkeep of a couple of churches I am all too aware that times have changed. There may have been a time in the past where a general respect for sacred spaces kept them fairly safe from theft and vandalism. Unfortunately that is long past in most places.
Good point, but it wouldn't necessarily be the people dossing there: the streets of some Spanish cities after midnight provide ample evidence of the lack of public toilet facilities, sad to say.when people sleep in the church porch, they also often use it for a toilet.
If a pilgrim needs a place to bed down there is usually a sheltered place somewhere in town.
The only reason i am able to find humour in it is if you don't laugh you cry, i am in agreement with you, sign of the times!Sadly I find nothing amusing in it. As someone who used to have overall responsibility for the safety and upkeep of a couple of churches I am all too aware that times have changed. There may have been a time in the past where a general respect for sacred spaces kept them fairly safe from theft and vandalism. Unfortunately that is long past in most places.
I know exactly what you mean. On previous short pilgrimages (Camino Inglés and last section of the Portugués) which pass through large villages and towns in Galicia, I found that churches were open at least at time of Mass, and there were daily Masses to be found. (I am a priest and like to join in and concelebrate at local celebrations of Mass). More recently, having walked the VdlP from Seville, I can say I have been shocked at the extent to which the life of the Church has, along with the life of most of the pueblos, dwindled. I trained for the priesthood in Spain over a quarter century ago, and there was still plenty of life out in the villages, but not now. On the VdlP, while still in Andalucía, the villages and towns still had life and the churches were open. In Extremadura and, more particularly, Castilla y León, the depopulation and the consequent downturn in the life of pueblos is obvious. Many beautiful churches and shrines bear witness to past glories. As of now, no doubt these parishes have been combined together to form large multi-parish units, under the care of a priest who probably doesn't even live in the parish. (Very often clergy live in family homes in the city or elsewhere). So these churches remain closed and locked in huge numbers, opened not even on an occasional Sunday, but only used for the funeral of a parishioner. It is truly sad to see the death of rural Spain.Over 15 days into this pilgrimage so far and the majority of the holy buildings have been closed, can anyone give more insight or share their own thoughts please? Is this the same situation on other routes and the French way in particular? Regardless of the time they always seem to be closed, it is very frustrating as it's a massive part of making pilgrimage for me personally, visiting holy sites and honouring the sacred energy present that exists within these buildings and is primary to them, the buildings are a secondary feature built on top and reappropriated by the religious order of the age. The clergy are stewards for these sites and supposed keepers/defenders of the faith but the doors remain closed, i think it is high time more questions are asked, know them by their fruit rings true here.
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