Dan, American starting in Le Puy in late Sept

[Dan.inRealLife]

Hello everyone!

Long time reader here. Many a days I've spent, daydreaming at my day job and reading these forums to get a feel of what I'm in store for in the near future.

I'm in a bit of a unique scenario, I'm American, ex-military (33 yrs old now), and living in France. I actually live almost right on top of the Geneva-Le Puy walking path, so I'm planning on just hopping down there and should be in Le Puy in about 4 or 5 days.

So far I have the Geneva-Le Puy guidebook. Planning on mailing that back home and getting the Le Puy-SJPP one in Le Puy. Thought about getting the Brierly guide for les Frances route as well.

I'm an avid outdoors person cursed with being a computer geek, so stuck at a desk all day. I'm not in bad shape, more of a what I would call 'unused' shape, so I'm planning on being in serious pain for the first week or two. This is actually one of the (if not main) reason for me doing this walk - to be out and about, on my feet, smelling fresh (and not so fresh) air every day. There's something about stagnation that makes me just feel bad after a while.

I'm planning on camping (or as the French call it, 'camping sauvage") in France for most of the way, mainly due to the price of lodging. They call it wild camping, but for an American, it's really just camping - tent, sleeping bag, small fire to cook stuff. Of course, it's all illegal, but from what I've read here it seems to be ok if you're nice about it.

Once in Spain I plan on probably mailing my tent / camping gear back home to cut down on unneeded weight. Of course, depending on wild I'm feeling, I can just keep camping now and then.

Anyone have experience in Sept/October in regards to camping, in France and Spain? Will I get chased by the locals?

Hope everyone is well, and maybe see you on the path soon!

Dan

 

[MichaelB10398]

I am sorry that I cannot be of assistance, but I know several of the Le Puy pilgrims that will be able to chip it and provide some information.

My purpose in commenting is that I am very green with envy. I lived in France as a young man and it has left me completely in love with the French people and the French way of life. Even thought a few decades have passed, it is still the home of my heart.

The other reason for envy is that your pilgrimage is the one I seek to do now. How grateful I am that you are able to take this time in your life for such an experience. Enjoy every moment and every day. Let the rain wash the old self away and the sunshine guide you to your better self.

I hearken back to the old pilgrims that focused on a spiritual walk with God. I hope I don't offend you, but you will be in my prayers that your Camino is not only a physical experience, but one that is filled with spiritual learning and awakenings. You will be in my prayers, even though I am a bit green.

 

[Dan.inRealLife]

Hi Michael,

Thanks for the kind words. I've been here 5 years now. I had the same love affair with Italy when I got stationed there in 2001 to 2005. France is a bit, well, different for me.

My biggest challenge is that I have a family I'm leaving to go do this. 2 small children and my wife. It will be hard, but I've got it in my mind that I have to do this. Too much time in an office chair in the past decade. Time to feel alive again.

Thanks again!

Dan

 

[Sagalouts]

Hi Dan
good luck with your walk,I walked from Le Puy April 2010,there's a link to my blog below,it may be of some use thou September will a be a fair bit different,plenty of places to camp out,I took a tent myself but gave it away in the end (too much weight)to the first gite actual one or two days walk in,it was a donotivo place.there are some on the road plus a few cheap places,the best blog on the route is by Kiwi Nomad search and you will find.
bonn route
Ian

 

[newfydog]

Since you've lived in France you'll figure out where to camp without a problem. I've done it many times, and never once been chased out. The route from Le Puy has plenty of places to camp descretely.

I've camped some in Spain too. Nice to be free of the refugios, with their crowds, snorers, smokers, what ever bothers you. You'll have a great trip.

 

[ramble-on]

Hi Dan,
I'll be a few days ahead of you, leaving Le Puy Sept 14. Hoping to get to SJPdP or Pamplona if time and muscles permit it. I'm envious of your "camping sauvage" as it gives you so much freedom, but for me the weight of tent and camping gear would be too much. For the gites, I know the usual is to book a few days ahead, but I'm hoping the route won't be very busy in Sept/Oct and that I can avoid it - I don't like schedules! That may change after a few nights sleeping in the ditch. :lol:

Good luck and bon chemin,
Dick

 

[michaelwalker]

Hey Dan,

This might help - routes, maps, profiles etc

http://www.xacobeo.fr/ZE1.03.Puy_c.htm
http://www.csj.org.uk/route-le-puy.htm

Here are a couple of good websites for planning camping sites if you want

http://www.CampingFrance.com (11,000 sites, in French only)
http://www.Guideducamping.com (11,000 sites)

the-le-puy-route/topic10855.html

RE wild camping, I did a bit last year on the Tours Route and I just made sure I camped outside of towns or villages in a forest and had no problems. I used a gas canister stove, Gas canisters are easy to find in France shops. And left no rubbish. I found I was not approached by gun wielding farmers. Out of sight, out of mind.

It does help every few days to camp in a "camping municipale" (only charge a handful or less of euro for one night) as you can get a warm shower. I found the locals responded better to me when clean and shaven.

There are also private camping grounds, they charge more and you contend with motorhomes.

If I had a word of advice, go ultralight, after a thousand kilometres (625 miles?) your body will thank you for it.

God's speed mate.

Michael

 

[Dan.inRealLife]

Thanks for the good tips everyone. I've got my entire pack weight to about 15 kilos, that's carrying 3 liters of water. My tarp, sleeping bag, bivvy and mat together weigh about 5 kilos. I don't have any stove, was pondering whether to bring one as I thought I'd try to be near towns and grab some bread/coffee in the morning at the towns. From my camping experiences though nothing beats a warm cup of something after a cold wet night!

I'm also a bit worried about missing out meeting some people in the gites/chambre d'hotes and whatnot. Maybe there isn't many people in late Sept on the France part, at least? Hope I'm not too ragged by the time I get to Spain.

Thanks again!

Dan

 

[Arn]

Dan,

Being of Italian heritage (German also), I can understand your appreciation for the Italians. Stationed in Paris at the embassy, I can understand your appreciation for the French, especially those living in the countryside.

On camping...it's a great way to settle down after a long day. You've already indicated 30% of total weight is taken up with camping equipment which you will carry as you start out...exactly the time you are most vulnerable physically. The good side is that by the time you reach SJPDP you'll be in better shape to make the march up to Roncesvalles. Consider sending it all home in SJPDP.

You mentioned "missing folks along the Way" by camping. You'll most likely meet many while trekking along the Way...and are likely to strike up a friendship with some and that may tip the scales toward staying in an albergue...especially after a fine pilgrim's meal. Speaking of meals, carrying the gas bottle is more weight...consider stopping in town for a crepe and coffee...buy some hard sausage and cheese for easy staples along the Way.

In any case, the Camino will take over at some point...making it truly your Camino regardless of what we suggest and you decide to do.

Semper Fi

Arn

 

[ksam]

Hey Dan,

Like some of the others here...I too am green with envy! Just wanted to comment about "missing" people if you wild camp...don't worry about it. Some of my best moments along the way were meals spent with guys who were wild camping...some of them camping almost exclusively! Philippe did it because he really had no money and a dog with him. Robert, just cause. But, we'd see each other along the way, chat a bit, have coffee's or dinner, and then mosey on. No difference from others that I met who slept in hotels instead of alburgues..

Enjoy your Camino and keep us posted on how your doing..let us peek over your shoulder!!

Buen Camino, Karin