Did you take the Camino Sanabrés option?

[LesBrass]

Hello - I've been reading as many blogs, books, website and videos as I can get my hands on in preparation for my walk on the VdlP in September.

I've noticed that most pilgrims choose the Camino Sanabrés option rather than head north to Astorga. My guess is that 1) the route is different if you've already walked the CF and 2) it will be far quieter than the CF... but I'm just guessing.

So if you've walked the VdlP which path did you choose and why? And, if you walked on to Astorga was there a bit of a culture shock?

(Thanks)

 

[domigee]

I chose the Sanabrés, mainly because it was new to me (I had walked the CF 2 years running).
I'm not sure I would have been ready to switch to a much more crowded camino at the time, I wasn't into Camino francés' mode.
That's about it really.
I found parts of the Sanabrés hard but really it was only because of the heat, 38 deg in Orense end of June comes to mind.

 

[alansykes]

I like the Sanabrés very much, and I've always been too scared of the crowds to try the Francés. One year I did go via Benavente (which is on the Sureste as well as the VdlP), which is a fine town with a great view towards the high passes into Galicia, three-four days walk away. There's plenty to see on the route - the remains of a visigothic scriptorum in Tábara, the oldest known sculpture of Santiago as a pilgrim (c1000AD) in Santa Marta de Tera, a possibly templar tower to the church in Mombuey, a staircase up a cliff to a mediaeval castle and church at Puebla de Sanabria (which apparently also has a wolf museum, which sadly I've not yet seen), hot springs in the river at Ourense, Cea with its DOC bread, and the handful of remaining monks singing vespers in the huge monastery of Oseira, set in its own secret green valley in the Galician uplands.

Plenty to see and enjoy.

 

[Richo]

Hello - I've been reading as many blogs, books, website and videos as I can get my hands on in preparation for my walk on the VdlP in September.

I've noticed that most pilgrims choose the Camino Sanabrés option rather than head north to Astorga. My guess is that 1) the route is different if you've already walked the CF and 2) it will be far quieter than the CF... but I'm just guessing.

So if you've walked the VdlP which path did you choose and why? And, if you walked on to Astorga was there a bit of a culture shock?

Something to consider with regards to CS versus CF - I'm wondering if it gets significantly busier 100 kms from Santiago, as the CF does from Sarria?

 

[peregrina2000]

Something to consider with regards to CS versus CF - I'm wondering if it gets significantly busier 100 kms from Santiago, as the CF does from Sarria?

My experience was like domigee's. Though a few people started in Ourense (the "Sarria of the Sanabres"), it was just never crowded. Alan has ticked off the highlights quite nicely -- one I would add is a 1 km walk up from the medical center in Lubian to see a very old wolf catcher. Really interesting. I've walked the Sanabres several times now and think it's a great option, but I've never gone the Benavente to Astorga option.

 

[domigee]

Something to consider with regards to CS versus CF - I'm wondering if it gets significantly busier 100 kms from Santiago, as the CF does from Sarria?

It didn't, when I walked it. There was still the same small number of us, less than 10 by then. I can't recall any new people joining us.
Yes, there were people going by bus or taxis but we never met them in albergues. Or whilst walking.

 

[camino07]

I have walked both and can't say I enjoyed the way from Montamarta to Astorga,apart from the last day as I was so looking forward to reaching Astorga and some friendly,English speaking pilgrims.
I was exhausted after walking from Seville and had much pain in my feet.
Following year after walking from Somport to Burgos I took a bus to Zamora to walk the Sanabres. Wow! I loved that Camino and can't wait to walk it again after next year's repeat VDLP.
Met many pilgrims from day one in the Albergue in Zamora. Plenty of English speakers and great scenery,albergues and varied days. No problem after Ourense .Something I will do differently next time is at Pont Ulla I would try to walk the last 5kms up to the Outeiro Albergue perhaps to meet some pilgrims to walk in to Santiago with. I couldn't even find a cafe that day.. I stayed in a comfortable Pension in Pont Ulla instead as I was too tired to walk on.
Yes! Sanabres up near the top of my list

 

[nalod]

I have done both. I am just back from Seville - Astorga - Santiago.
The Sanabrés is the most beautiful. The section where they split and you go on to Astorga is not really very beautiful. I was alone most times On the VDPL SO THE COMPANY OF ABOUT 25 - 30 on the Frances was nice. I have no regrets doing the Astorga route as doing the Sanabrés again would have been too safe an option.

This is a link to post I done on the VDLP this year. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/live-updates-february-2016.38216/

 

[LesBrass]

thanks for the great replies folks... I am certainly leaning towards the Sanabres option... if for no other reason than it's a new route; Im glad you all seem to concur with this.

@peregrina2000 and @nalod I've read your blogs and seen the photos and have really enjoyed both ... I also read Dartmoor Walkers blog and I've just finished A good walk unspoiled... indeed I think I've found all the blogs mentioned on the forum for the VDLP... but welcome any suggestions for others!

 

[Stephen F.]

thanks for the great replies folks... I am certainly leaning towards the Sanabres option... if for no other reason than it's a new route; Im glad you all seem to concur with this.

@peregrina2000 and @nalod I've read your blogs and seen the photos and have really enjoyed both ... I also read Dartmoor Walkers blog and I've just finished A good walk unspoiled... indeed I think I've found all the blogs mentioned on the forum for the VDLP... but welcome any suggestions for others!

Thanks for your questions and to all the repliers. I am planning to walk the Sanabres route in May and am very gratified to read all of the positive comments. Getting excited about walking it.

 

[Magwood]

Hi @LesBrass. Just to add another blog to the list, I chose (and loved) the Sanabrés option at the end of my Camino Mozárabe. I blogged live from the Camino every day see here. Day 35 marks the start of the Sanabrés. I think you have probably taken a look already, but someone else reading this thread might find the link useful.

I did chose this option for the two reasons you suggest. I reached my 'culture shock' when setting off to Finisterre. I tried very hard to distance myself from the crowds, but couldn't avoid them at the albergues.
Buen Camino!

 

[ngm]

Take the Sanabres... After walking few/some Caminos, I can rekommend you this path. Last walk we mad was from Valencia along with camino de Levante, and we walked the alternative of Astorga, and Francés...we gave up at Ponferrada ( becouse of the autostrada ....) and and continued on the alternative ..Camin de Invierno which was fantastic but tough. At May(12 ) we will begin walking on the Mozarabe and we going to follow the La Plata and Sanabres again (we did it already at 2012, .. from Sevilla)!

 

[NualaOC]

Thanks @LesBrass for starting this thread - I had wondered about that question too.

 

[LesBrass]

Hi @LesBrass. Just to add another blog to the list, I chose (and loved) the Sanabrés option at the end of my Camino Mozárabe. I blogged live from the Camino every day see here. Day 35 marks the start of the Sanabrés. I think you have probably taken a look already, but someone else reading this thread might find the link useful.

I did chose this option for the two reasons you suggest. I reached my 'culture shock' when setting off to Finisterre. I tried very hard to distance myself from the crowds, but couldn't avoid them at the albergues.
Buen Camino!

Thanks Magwood... I am a HUGE fan of your blog... I've read them all and look forward to reading all about your next adventure

 

[SYates]

I am on the Sanabres just now and love it, so far we have been a max of 10 pilgrims in the same town and that includes Holy Week. Buen Camino, SY

 

[erith long]

Hello - I've been reading as many blogs, books, website and videos as I can get my hands on in preparation for my walk on the VdlP in September.

I've noticed that most pilgrims choose the Camino Sanabrés option rather than head north to Astorga. My guess is that 1) the route is different if you've already walked the CF and 2) it will be far quieter than the CF... but I'm just guessing.

So if you've walked the VdlP which path did you choose and why? And, if you walked on to Astorga was there a bit of a culture shock?

(Thanks)

hello, My Husband an I walked the VDP on 2015 and we chosed to follow the Camino Sanabres.. .WONDERFUL.. I really recomend it, lots of mountains, reservoirs not too hot great food. Not to say that maybe one day we will continue to ASTORGA and finish there, having walked de CF twice the crowd of people is enough to deter me to continue to SANTIAGO on this route.

 

[er325]

Hi,
I did the vdlp alone and decided to go up to the Frances. I was getting kind of tired of no people and rare food. I appreciated Camino Frances much more than I would have had I started there because it was luxurious compared to vdlp. Every day I walked with people and had dinner with people I met at my hotel sometimes (I did hotels because I was close to Santiago and scared of the bed situation). Vdlp was social too but not as many people to choose from. also as a woman alone I got spooked sometimes.

Having said that I just got back from getting my compostela at the pilgrims office and the lady accused me of "changing the via de la plata" because I didn't go through ourense. I explained that it technically ends in astorga and you can choose how to get to Santiago but she acted like I was crazy. She also accused me of lying about walking because I did the vdlp quite quickly (another story). Did anyone else get flack for finishing on the Frances?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hi,
I did the vdlp alone and decided to go up to the Frances. I was getting kind of tired of no people and rare food. I appreciated Camino Frances much more than I would have had I started there because it was luxurious compared to vdlp. Every day I walked with people and had dinner with people I met at my hotel sometimes (I did hotels because I was close to Santiago and scared of the bed situation). Vdlp was social too but not as many people to choose from. also as a woman alone I got spooked sometimes.

Having said that I just got back from getting my compostela at the pilgrims office and the lady accused me of "changing the via de la plata" because I didn't go through ourense. I explained that it technically ends in astorga and you can choose how to get to Santiago but she acted like I was crazy. She also accused me of lying about walking because I did the vdlp quite quickly (another story). Did anyone else get flack for finishing on the Frances?

Hi,

Of course you were right: the total length of VdPl is between Sevilla and Astorga. They split in Granja de Moreruela, as is common knowledge amongst pilgrims... That lady sure didn't know what she was talking about. Sorry to hear about unpleasant welcoming at Compostela Office - that's not how it should end.

But did you like the last stages of VdPl to Astorga? I've written a few times that it was actually not my favourite part. Monotonous landscape and confusing waymarking - how about you?

/BP

 

[er325]

Hi,

Of course you were right: the total length of VdPl is between Sevilla and Astorga. They split in Granja de Moreruela, as is common knowledge amongst pilgrims... That lady sure didn't know what she was talking about. Sorry to hear about unpleasant welcoming at Compostela Office - that's not how it should end.

But did you like the last stages of VdPl to Astorga? I've written a few times that it was actually not my favourite part. Monotonous landscape and confusing waymarking - how about you?

/BP

Yeah I felt like both the guidebook author (not naming names) and the arrow people lost interest between Granja and astorga. Pretty sure the guidebook person didn't even walk it recently because there were some key pieces of info missing. There was some pretty farmland at some point. But the towns were like ghost towns (poor Spain) and at one point I ended up wading through waist high grass and then a stream and somehow that did turn back into the Camino lol.

The train to Madrid today took me through Camino sanabres country which looked beautiful. But I needed the Frances for mental health and for more eating and sleeping flexibility because I needed to do long days at the end in order to give myself a better chance of reaching Santiago.

 

[ranthr]

I went via Astorga for different reasons.
When I walked in 2011 it was very crowdy! The albergues were full and I had noticed that some albergues on the CS have only a few beds. I went via Astorga because CF had more places to sleep.
As an old singlewalking woman I missed female company. I only met very few women now and then and was in a way "fed up with" old men. The weeks before I arrived in Astorga,I only met 4 people under 50, except for a few cyclist that passed you on the road. I enjoyed coming to the Frances and meeting people of all ages, male and female.

I also chose the CF to avoid more flowing arroyos that had scared me earlier on the route.

I would may be have made another choice today, having met the big crowd on the CF last year.