Difficulty/ dangerousness/ albergues on the Primitivo?

[4848]

Considering primitivo (in one week) And I would appreciate any insights

I have two weeks free and am thinking to try the primativo.

My questions are:

1. Distance. I'm comfortable at 16-25 km, will it be possible to keep under the 25km and still find albergues? How was it finding albergues?

2. Height/difficulty/danger levels.

I'm going solo, and on parts of del norte at the beginning particularly I was a bit unnerved by the height and feeling of being on the edge, looking down especially as I had some storms. I made it, but Ive heard primativo is supposed to be more mountainous/rugged. Should I be ok height wise (eg I don't want to be on a dangerous cliff edge like situation) or are there many dangerous rugged parts that I should be very worried about?

For context I have walked Frances st. Jean to Santiago a good few years ago, and just walked Santiago - Finisterre , and have done del norte (irun - Santander). However, my fitness is not that great at the moment, and I've not had time to train, except for walking Camino finisterre recently.


I have looked into this myself but really would appreciate any personal insights thanks!

 

[trecile]

There was no place on the Primitivo that I felt was dangerous.

 

[Pafayac]

Primitivo is not dangerous, just check the weather before choosing Hospitales or not.
You can size your steps here:

Planificador - Camino Primitivo - Godesalco.com

Perfiles altitudinales, planificación de etapas y archivos GPS para el Camino Primitivo.

godesalco.com

 

[Pafayac]

There was no place on the Primitivo that I felt was dangerous.

Perhaps some bars in Lugo if you are not used to drink...

 

[Kiwi-family]

Nothing dangerous although there is a short steepish rocky path on the Hospitales route which my 8yo daughter slipped on and tumbled quite a bit. She’s since walked it again without trouble.
Nothing to be anxious about.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Nothing dangerous that I recall as we had great weather the day I went up and over the Hospitales section, but a fellow walker we met only a day behind us encountered so much fog he could not see the special markers in front of him. He became disoriented and wandered off, saying it was quite unsettling to try and find his way to continue. Although this area has no true a cliffs that I recall, an injury is not impossible under those circumstances.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Nothing dangerous that I recall as we had great weather the day I went up and over the Hospitales section, but a fellow walker we met only a day behind us encountered so much fog he could not see the special markers in front of him. He became disoriented and wandered off, saying it was quite unsettling to try and find his way to continue. Although this area has no true a cliffs that I recall, an injury is not impossible under those circumstances.

The old advice for walking over Puerto de Palo by either Hospitales or Pola de Allande was 'in poor visibility walk the latter and if visibility bad then walk the road '. Any decisions need making where the way splits.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The old advice for walking over Puerto de Palo by either Hospitales or Pola de Allande was 'in poor visibility walk the latter and if visibility bad then walk the road '. Any decisions need making where the way splits.

That is great advice and glad you have repeated it as many (especially newbies,) may be unaware a decision on which route should be taken depending on daily weather.

 

[Korilu]

Considering primitivo (in one week) And I would appreciate any insights

I have two weeks free and am thinking to try the primativo.

My questions are:

1. Distance. I'm comfortable at 16-25 km, will it be possible to keep under the 25km and still find albergues? How was it finding albergues?

2. Height/difficulty/danger levels.

I'm going solo, and on parts of del norte at the beginning particularly I was a bit unnerved by the height and feeling of being on the edge, looking down especially as I had some storms. I made it, but Ive heard primativo is supposed to be more mountainous/rugged. Should I be ok height wise (eg I don't want to be on a dangerous cliff edge like situation) or are there many dangerous rugged parts that I should be very worried about?

For context I have walked Frances st. Jean to Santiago a good few years ago, and just walked Santiago - Finisterre , and have done del norte (irun - Santander). However, my fitness is not that great at the moment, and I've not had time to train, except for walking Camino finisterre recently.


I have looked into this myself but really would appreciate any personal insights thanks!

1. Distance: I averaged 21.6 km per day (not counting side jaunts) and it took 14 days... can't answer to alburques as I stayed in pre-booked hotels.
2. Height/difficulty/danger: I only remember one short length of path that I was especially careful not to trip and fall to the left because there was less than 3 feet to very steep drop off with no trees to grab on your way down. Otherwise only rain and slippery rocks on steep slopes - not really dangerous, just a wee bit more challenging. I did see one guy who slipped down a rocky place and got pretty scraped and bruised but nothing major. Trekking poles definitely saved my ass a few times, lol.

 

[El Cascayal]

The Primitivo is beautiful and not dangerous. You definitely need poles! The most challenging part to me is the descent after Puerto del Palo, jagged, loose, largish, granite rocks.
Make sure to visit the wonderful waterfall Cascada de Nonaya which is well marked and exactly 250 meters to the right of the Camino, after Salas.
Two other must visit detours are:
After O Cadavo take the Camino complementario through a peaceful ancient chestnut forest to the 4th century unrestored church of San Salvador de Soutomerille, a place and environment that is Spirit filled.
After Lugo is Santa Eulalia de Bóveda a 4th century wonder that is found shortly after the luxury vending machine stop, Zapateiros, (that includes an indoor bathroom) reached as a 2.3 km detour on the right. It has free entrance with a guide, and is another little visited highlight of the Primitivo.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

The most challenging part to me is the descent after Puerto del Palo, jagged, loose, largish, granite rocks.

Oh yes, thanks for the reminder! I definitely remember going down those big rocks!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@4848, welcome to the forum

The Primitivo is easily doable in 20 - 25km stages, although do remember that it's 320km long, which is an average of 22.5km per day assuming you walk every one of your 14 days. It's well worth considering making your first day or two slightly shorter (20 km) and including a couple of slightly longer days after the Hospitales.

Regardless as to whether you use one of the guidebooks or Gronze, Wise Pilgrim etc it's quite easy to keep it to 20 kilometers most days, the exception being the Hospitales of course (24.5 km, zero services. - ensure you carry plenty of water, + food for the day).

Not even remotely dangerous, the one steep, rocky part:

The most challenging part to me is the descent after Puerto del Palo, jagged, loose, largish, granite rocks.

is easily avoided by simply taking the road. (Probably a good idea if it's wet or you feel insecure). There are very few cars.

Sights:
I was underwhelmed by the Cascada de Nonaya, but if you have plenty of time it's pleasant enough and it's only a very short detour.

I really enjoyed detouring to the abandoned monastery of Santa Maria of Obana. I think it's about 350 meter (each way).

Many, myself included, consider the Ethnographic museum in Grandas de Salime a 'do not miss'. I believe it's closed Mondays, and you do need to check the opening hours because it closed quite early on the day I was there. It's cheap, €1.50 last year.

After O Cadavo take the Camino complementario through a peaceful ancient chestnut forest to the 4th century unrestored church of San Salvador de Soutomerille,

Definitely!

 

[David Tallan]

Nothing dangerous that I recall as we had great weather the day I went up and over the Hospitales section, but a fellow walker we met only a day behind us encountered so much fog he could not see the special markers in front of him. He became disoriented and wandered off, saying it was quite unsettling to try and find his way to continue. Although this area has no true a cliffs that I recall, an injury is not impossible under those circumstances.

Wow. I remember thinking that the Hospitales was unusually well marked with very frequent markers just to prevent this sort of thing.

 

[David Tallan]

Make sure to visit the wonderful waterfall Cascada de Nonaya which is well marked and exactly 250 meters to the right of the Camino, after Salas.
Two other must visit detours are:
After O Cadavo take the Camino complementario through a peaceful ancient chestnut forest to the 4th century unrestored church of San Salvador de Soutomerille, a place and environment that is Spirit filled.
After Lugo is Santa Eulalia de Bóveda a 4th century wonder that is found shortly after the luxury vending machine stop, Zapateiros, (that includes an indoor bathroom) reached as a 2.3 km detour on the right. It has free entrance with a guide, and is another little visited highlight of the Primitivo.

I enjoyed all three of these little detours, although I agree with Peter that the waterfall is not spectacular.

 

[El Cascayal]

Hi Peter & David. Here’s 17 seconds of the waterfall on April 5, 2024. Maybe you guys had less rain? Aymarah
View attachment IMG_7487.mov

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Wow. I remember thinking that the Hospitales was unusually well marked with very frequent markers just to prevent this sort of thing.

I remember all those little markers on the ground near the top, too. It was hard to imagine so much fog as to not see them, but that is what he told me happened. At least now we know why they are there instead of the more usual spacings of mojones.

 

[VNwalking]

4th

9th century, but mostly what you can see is much later. Santa Eulalia is 4th C, though.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Hi Peter & David. Here’s 17 seconds of the waterfall on April 5, 2024. Maybe you guys had less rain? Aymarah
View attachment 171207

Please don't get me wrong it's pretty but not really what I call a waterfall.

I grew up near this one, used to visit often in the summer months. As a teenager, we would frequently swing past here on the way home from the beach to wash the salt off.

:

This type of waterfall is everywhere in New Zealand. We also have some quite spectacular ones, Shine Falls was one of my local favourites. It's on one of the short hikes that I used to take visitors on, especially in summer - you'll see why. If you look at this video from two minutes 52 you'll get an idea as to what I enjoy.

(Not my videos)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

(Not my videos)

Not your videos, but is that you in the first one?

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Nope, not I, although it's possible we may have visited on that day.

 

[kamleman]

My wife and I are in our 60’s and we did it without any fear or worry. There is always a good path and you never feel that you’re close to the edge. If I remember someone recently posted a short stage Primitivo on this forum, with 15-20Km stages. Go for it. Buen Camino.

 

[El Cascayal]

I fear we have somewhat derailed this thread.
Lots to think about: differences between waterfall and cascade and how important personal point of reference is. Falling water, so beautiful and a delight to find while walking.

 

[El Cascayal]

9th century, but mostly what you can see is much later. Santa Eulalia is 4th C, though.

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[David Tallan]

Hi Peter & David. Here’s 17 seconds of the waterfall on April 5, 2024. Maybe you guys had less rain? Aymarah
View attachment 171207

For some context, the falls I'm used to thinking of as special are Niagara Falls (not my photo) which is a couple of hours from home:

There are falls (or cascades) like in your video on the daily practice walk I do from my front door. I did enjoy the detour to them after Salas, and it wasn't a long one. Just my bar was set a bit higher.

 

[VNwalking]

For some context, the falls I'm used to thinking of as special

Or these, the ones I grew up with:

My bar's higher too.

 

[El Cascayal]

Show offs!!!
I Nonaya.

 

[Jyrki Wahlstedt]

Wow. I remember thinking that the Hospitales was unusually well marked with very frequent markers just to prevent this sort of thing.

I'll attach here a pic from my 2018 Hospitales, just imagine some fog here…

 

[David Tallan]

I'll attach here a pic from my 2018 Hospitales, just imagine some fog here…View attachment 171283

Although, to be fair, I think I see two markers within thar picture. That's a lot more frequent than on many other routes of my experience.

That said, I certainly wouldn't take the Hospitales route when the locals advise against it, no more than I would take the Napoleon route over the Pyrenees against advice. And I checked on the advice in the morning before setting out over the Hospitales.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I'll attach here a pic from my 2018 Hospitales, just imagine some fog here…View attachment 171283

It wouldn't take much to stray from those markers and the path in dense fog and get disoriented; everything looks the same on the top of that "bald". I'm glad I had a sunny day.

 

[Tincatinker]

Interesting stuff fog. People think it kind of sits and is. They don’t think it moves but it does, all the time. People think they’re walking in straight line and they ain’t - they’re following the fog. Drift a bit one way, drift a bit another - if you can’t use a map and a compass; if you don’t have a partner to go find the next way-point while you stay still: when it comes to fog sit down and wait. Hospitales in fog? Like crossing a highway with your eyes closed

 

[dbier]

One note of caution. The Primitivo in the first week has more elevation changes per day than most of the Frances, all of the route to Finisterre, and some of the second half of the Norte. Your comfort with 20-25 km/ day as you experienced on the route to Finisterre will not likely work as well for you on the Primitivo. It's likely to take you longer to cover the same distance. Trust me on this... ;/

What kinds of albergues are you looking for? If you want municipals, plan to start early the first couple of days. Otherwise, after the first couple of days, Id suggest start WhatsApp'ing the places you'd like to stay 1-2 days out, particularly Berducedo.

Danger is as noted above. I would not recommend the Hospitales route in bad weather ( trust me, you won't see anything anyway), and for both Hospitales and the alternate route, the descent right after they join is...challenging. Use poles, and consider walking the road down to Montefurado if it's wet out.

There are older threads with pictures of some steeper bits, if you would like to search.

Buen Camino.