First Day

[Gpel]

I am panicked about the first day as my daughter and I plan to arrive in St.Jean by train in the morning on September 15 and begin walking. We booked a hostel in Roncesvalles. Need advice as to how late you are able to safely walk before it gets too dark and which route (Napoleon or Valcarlos) to take.

 

[Deleted member 67185]

Sunset is somewhere around 9:00 pm, and there is usable light for at about 1 hour + after that. So, if you start walking by 0930, that will give you at least 12 hours, normally. I don't think the Pyrenees will create much of a "sun shadow" that would affect the hours of usable light, but you can add an ultralight headlamp to your kit in case you need a bit more illumination.

 

[scruffy1]

Buen Camino! The weather should cool off by then no problems with heat-rain may make it a bit more difficult. The first day out is marked by great excitement, new experience, many fellow pilgrims to talk to, a bit of jet lag, and yes tentativeness OMG I'm really going to do this! Taken together with the many photos you will slow to take all will easily knock you off your usual pace - so give yourself plenty of time and walk at a speed comfortable for you yourself. You can do this! If you wake up dead tired aching all over in Roncesvalles, walk a shorter next day! The guide books are just thayt, a guide, listen to your body and not a book!

 

[ksam]

IF you are truly panicked remember that you could always opt to walk to Orisson and then taxi back to SJPP (if they are all booked up) The following morning taxi up and complete the walk to Roncesvalles. There are always other ways to skin a cat!! (I'm always wondering where on earth that quote came from!! I should find out as I'm always using it!!)

Buen Camino and B. R. E. A. T. H. E.!!! Your gonna be fine!!

 

[JulieandPeter]

Hi Gpel,
I'm not sure if I am understanding this correctly. Are you planning to walk to Roncesvalles the same day you arrive by train? If so, what time does your train arrive? Prior to leaving SJPDP, you will probably want to go to the pilgrim office to get your pilgrim credential which you need to stay in albergues. I think you can get one in Roncesvalles as well. You might also like to eat breakfast because you will have a long steep walk ahead of you. The only food available when we walked from SJPDP to Roncesvalles via the Napoleon route in April was at Orrison which is about 4.7 miles from SJPDP.

Normally, I would not recommend staying at Orrison because it is only two hours away from SJPDP, but if you are arriving the same day as you are walking, this might be the perfect place for you to stop that first day. I recommend booking ahead there. If you do decide to walk all the way to Roncesvalles, sunset is at 8:37 p.m. on 9/15. When we walked in April we had a lot of fog the second half and could not see trail markers (we also had snow on the ground which will probably not be an issue for you), I would not want to be on that trail using a flashlight.

As for Napoleon or Valcarlos? Everyone has their own preference. We have done both of them and even with the fog and snow, I preferred the Napoleon route which was very peaceful and serene. There was a lot of walking on the road on the Valcarlos route which was busy on morning we were on it (late May). Either way, you will be fine if you carry food, water, and keep one phone charged (our battery died midway).

EDIT: It took us 12 hours; we trained with backpacks beforehand, but we are obviously very slow and we did not have good weather conditions. There were others much slower than us who stopped at Orrison. How long it takes you will depend on how prepared you are physically and the weather.

Buen Camino - it will be wonderful - don't panic.

 

[JulieandPeter]

IF you are truly panicked remember that you could always opt to walk to Orisson and then taxi back to SJPP (if they are all booked up) The following morning taxi up and complete the walk to Roncesvalles. There are always other ways to skin a cat!! (I'm always wondering where on earth that quote came from!! I should find out as I'm always using it!!)

Buen Camino and B. R. E. A. T. H. E.!!! Your gonna be fine!!

Ksam, I love your quote, "So ask yourself, what's the absolute worst that could happen? Can you handle it?"

 

[Glenshiro]

If you're taking the first train from Bayonne at 07:42 on 15 September you will arrive at 08:40. Sunset at Roncesvalles that day is 20.16, and you will be on the south facing side of the Pyrenees by then.
Much has been written about the Napoleon route but the fact is that any reasonably fit person can complete the walk in 7-8 hours, (including a break for a picnic lunch - no catering facilities beyond Orisson. You can pick up supplies in SJPDP) There will be other people with you all the way.

I have done it twice, aged 63 and 64.

However, definitely call in at the pilgrim office (39, rue de la Citadelle, open from 07:30, walk up from the station, across the main road, up a flight of steps, along a narrow street and turn left) to get your credencial and check on the weather forecast.

If in doubt, take the Valcarlos route. If you do take the Napoleon (do if you possibly can) remember to turn right on the paved road (the NA2033) down to the monastery when you reach it rather than take the steep and slippery path straight ahead.

Buen Camino!

 

[Saunterr]

You have less to worry about than you think. The camino provides.

 

[David Tallan]

Prior to leaving SJPDP, you will probably want to go to the pilgrim office to get your pilgrim passport which you need to stay in albergues. I think you can get one in Roncesvalles as well.

Certainly, you can get a credencial or "pilgrim's passport" in Roncesvalles. Just be aware that, if you do, it will be set up and stamped to indicate that you are beginning your Camino in Roncesvalles. If you want it to indicate a start in SJPP, you'll need to bring one with you or acquire one there and get it stamped there before you start walking. As mentioned, the Pilgrim Office in SJPP is a good place to do both those things. You can also pick up a pilgrim shell there, if you don't already have one and want to display one to mark yourself as a pilgrim.

 

[jpflavin1]

I am panicked about the first day as my daughter and I plan to arrive in St.Jean by train in the morning on September 15 and begin walking. We booked a hostel in Roncesvalles. Need advice as to how late you are able to safely walk before it gets too dark and which route (Napoleon or Valcarlos) to take.

No need to panic. Both routes are very walk-able in 8 hours. So there should be no problem arriving in Roncesvalles before dark. Check in at the Pilgrim office and be on your way. Since you have a reservation, I assume you do not plan to stop at Orisson or Valcarlos.

Napoleon route has a steep start and no place for replenishment of supplies other than water fountains after Orisson (8 km's).

The Valcarlos route has a much more gradual start and the last replenishment stop is Valcarlos (11km's).

I have walked both routes and they are both very nice but long 1st day walks.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[nycwalking]

Napolean.

If you arrive in time attend mass in Roncesvalles. Such a nice send off.

Buen camino.

 

[MeandIan]

I am panicked about the first day as my daughter and I plan to arrive in St.Jean by train in the morning on September 15 and begin walking. We booked a hostel in Roncesvalles. Need advice as to how late you are able to safely walk before it gets too dark and which route (Napoleon or Valcarlos) to take.

We are booked in at Roncesvalles on 15 September. Hopefully we’ll meet?

 

[Gpel]

IF you are truly panicked remember that you could always opt to walk to Orisson and then taxi back to SJPP (if they are all booked up) The following morning taxi up and complete the walk to Roncesvalles. There are always other ways to skin a cat!! (I'm always wondering where on earth that quote came from!! I should find out as I'm always using it!!)

Buen Camino and B. R. E. A. T. H. E.!!! Your gonna be fine!!

Thanks to everyone for the information. As the date grows closer, I am definitely starting to over think it and

I am panicked about the first day as my daughter and I plan to arrive in St.Jean by train in the morning on September 15 and begin walking. We booked a hostel in Roncesvalles. Need advice as to how late you are able to safely walk before it gets too dark and which route (Napoleon or Valcarlos) to take.[/QUOTE

Thanks to everyone for the information. I was worried we bit off more than we can chew (ok more than I can chew) on the first day. Glad to hear the positive feedback... and feeling less anxious.

 

[mmmckay]

I am panicked about the first day as my daughter and I plan to arrive in St.Jean by train in the morning on September 15 and begin walking. We booked a hostel in Roncesvalles. Need advice as to how late you are able to safely walk before it gets too dark and which route (Napoleon or Valcarlos) to take.

If I were you, I’d stay in Orisson the first night. We just finished our Camino onAugust 7 and through the entire walk, we felt a wonderful connection with the people we met in Orisson. It’s worth it, and will make your second day to Roncesvalles so much more enjoyable. Good luck!

 

[Shalaw]

So it sounds like you will hit the ground running, as soon as you get off the train? What time will that be? We spent the day/night before we started walking in SJPdP and it allowed us to beat a bit of the jetlag and see a bit of the town before heading out the next day. We left SJPdP at about 7:30am the next morning and didn't get to Roncesvalles until about 5:30pm. We opted to take Napoleone route and for the last few kms into Roncesvalles, took the trail through the forest but likely should have taken the road because it's very steep and takes a lot longer. Like others have suggested, I would recommend staying over night before setting out, if you can afford the time. And, also like others have suggested, you can gauge how you feel when you reach Orrison and if you're tired and want to stop but can't get a room there, take a cab back to SJPdP for the night, and then take a cab back to Orrison and then your day two can be from there to Roncesvalles.

Whatever you decide, Buen Camino!!

 

[Gpel]

So it sounds like you will hit the ground running, as soon as you get off the train? What time will that be? We spent the day/night before we started walking in SJPdP and it allowed us to beat a bit of the jetlag and see a bit of the town before heading out the next day. We left SJPdP at about 7:30am the next morning and didn't get to Roncesvalles until about 5:30pm. We opted to take Napoleone route and for the last few kms into Roncesvalles, took the trail through the forest but likely should have taken the road because it's very steep and takes a lot longer. Like others have suggested, I would recommend staying over night before setting out, if you can afford the time. And, also like others have suggested, you can gauge how you feel when you reach Orrison and if you're tired and want to stop but can't get a room there, take a cab back to SJPdP for the night, and then take a cab back to Orrison and then your day two can be from there to Roncesvalles.

Whatever you decide, Buen Camino!!

How difficult is it to catch a cab from Orisson to Roncesvalles if we discover we bit off more than we can chew? We only have 26 days and already know that we will more than likely have to fast track some parts of the Camino...in hindsight wish we had started at a point after this stretch! It’s ruining the anticipation of the trip, as all I have in my head is “to get this part over with”. Reading what the psychic told the pilgrim did nothing to alleviate these fears!!

 

[Shalaw]

I tried to insert your quote, Gpel, but am having technical difficulties. To be honest, I'm not sure how plentiful cabs are from Orrison to Roncesvalles, but when you think about it, Orrison is a very short trip by car from SJPdP so I would think it wouldn't be too difficult to get one?? Or, as amazing as the Pyrenees are, you can always take a bus from SJPdP to Pamplona and start there if you are pressed for time?? One thing we did, was rent bikes so we could save time crossing the meseta. It is about 167kms which would have taken us 6-7 days if we hiked, but because we biked we cut it down to 2.5 days. We sent our packs ahead so didn't have to worry about having a heavy load on our bikes. We got them in Tardajos (about 10kms outside of Burgos) and biked to Leon, where we returned the bikes. We started on Sept. 6th, 2015 and strolled into Santiago on Oct. 7th, but we took two full rest days. September is a great time to be there!

 

[Gpel]

I tried to insert your quote, Gpel, but am having technical difficulties. To be honest, I'm not sure how plentiful cabs are from Orrison to Roncesvalles, but when you think about it, Orrison is a very short trip by car from SJPdP so I would think it wouldn't be too difficult to get one?? Or, as amazing as the Pyrenees are, you can always take a bus from SJPdP to Pamplona and start there if you are pressed for time?? One thing we did, was rent bikes so we could save time crossing the meseta. It is about 167kms which would have taken us 6-7 days if we hiked, but because we biked we cut it down to 2.5 days. We sent our packs ahead so didn't have to worry about having a heavy load on our bikes. We got them in Tardajos (about 10kms outside of Burgos) and biked to Leon, where we returned the bikes. We started on Sept. 6th, 2015 and strolled into Santiago on Oct. 7th, but we took two full rest days. September is a great time to be there!

That is an excellent tip! Thanks

 

[Shalaw]

That is an excellent tip! Thanks

I should mention that we ordered the bikes online and had them delivered to us at an amazing albergue, La Fabricca, in Tardajos. The meseta is the only flat bit of the whole camino, except for one HUGE climb the first day we got our bikes. After that, it was smooth sailing!!

 

[Marbe2]

Express Bourricot runs a shuttle along the route from St Jean with several stops one at Orisson and a couple past itYou can reserve places for where you want to be picked up the first day and then returned to st. jean. Second day they will drive you to a stop of your desire .

https://www.expressbourricot.com/contact-and-booking/

 

[JulieandPeter]

How difficult is it to catch a cab from Orisson to Roncesvalles if we discover we bit off more than we can chew? We only have 26 days and already know that we will more than likely have to fast track some parts of the Camino...in hindsight wish we had started at a point after this stretch! It’s ruining the anticipation of the trip, as all I have in my head is “to get this part over with”. Reading what the psychic told the pilgrim did nothing to alleviate these fears!!

Dear Gpel,
Please do not feel like you must get this part over with; it is an absolutely glorious walk. We had some challenges (fog, snow, accidentally taking the steep route because of fog and snow ), but I can honestly say it was one of the best days of my life, and the start of a journey that has changed how I view the world.

I think what many of us are saying is to either take a night in SJPDP (a beautiful village) or stay in Orrison the first night, so you don't find yourself struggling unnecessarily because you did not give yourself enough time.

Having said that, I completely understand why you are feeling anxious. My husband and I are leaving in 6 days to walk 500 miles from Le Puy to SJPDP. This will be our fifth long distance hike, but I'm still nervous because I've never done this route before and I have heard a lot about it and what if . . . what if . . .what if? So, I understand the panic, but I also know that it's going to be okay; it's going to be great.

I hope you will post here again when you return and let us know your thoughts. Don't worry about only having 26 days, if you end up loving it, you will be back to see what you missed. If not, you'll be glad you only had 26 days. I hope that helps. Buen Camino!
PS Attaching a few photos of that wonderful first day. It was challenging, but blissful. Orrison is at the top right and that sandwich was delicious!

 

[Devereaux]

Take your time and remember, the object of the Camino is to discover the beauty in others and yourself...other Pilgrims, your daughter, and those who you meet in each little town. If you read through the many posts on tiis Forum, you'll hear over and over..."it's the relationships!" Study the route and skip some parts by taxi, if you have to. BUT...s-l-o-w d-o-w-n and enjoy the parts you can experience.

 

[trecile]

How difficult is it to catch a cab from Orisson to Roncesvalles if we discover we bit off more than we can chew? We only have 26 days and already know that we will more than likely have to fast track some parts of the Camino...in hindsight wish we had started at a point after this stretch! It’s ruining the anticipation of the trip, as all I have in my head is “to get this part over with”. Reading what the psychic told the pilgrim did nothing to alleviate these fears!!

Perhaps you would enjoy your Camino more if you change your plans and start closer to Santiago.