First day - Route Napoléon, or Valcarlos?

[michal.don]

Hello again,
starting next tuesday from SJPdP, and looking for a bit more advice. The weather forecast is not as optimistic as I would have liked, and from what I saw, there is snow on top of the mountains again, as of today. I still hope for it to clear until monday, and to be able to walk the Napoleon route. I have reserved an albergue about 1,5 km down the napoleon route fot monday night, so I'll visit the pilgrim's office on monday afternoon and inquire about the weather there - I hope they will be able to give me precise information for the next day, as it would be a bit inconvenient to have to walk back to SJPdP on tuesday morning.
So far the forecast for the mountains looks a bit like "cloudy, sometimes rain, up to 9°C during the day". In your experience, is it ok to walk the Napoleon route in weather like this, or is it more likely that I will have to walk the Valcarlos route, instead?
Thanks,
Michal

 

[Bradypus]

Personally I wouldn't worry too much about cloud and some rain - unless the forecast is for torrential rain. The route is easy to follow. I would be more concerned about snow or high winds. I would definitely take the advice of the pilgrim office on the day. A few minutes ago I posted this Facebook link on another thread. Some photos from a walker yesterday showing how different the top of the pass may be from either SJPDP or even Orisson.

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www.facebook.com

 

[Roland49]

Just ask in the Pilgrim's Office!
It can be possible to walk via RN or it's closed and you need to switch to Valcarlos Route.

Have fun!

 

[michal.don]

A few minutes ago I posted this Facebook link on another thread.

I noticed your thread just after posting mine Yes, these don't look like very pleasant walking conditions, but it does not look too "unsafe", either....

Just ask in the Pilgrim's Office!

I definitely will, and will respect their advice - just wondering if they will be able to provide definite information the day before I start walking...

It's all probably overthinking on my part - the nerves are by far not as bad as before my first camino, but claming I'm 100% calm would probably be a lie....

Thank you both,
Michal

 

[J Willhaus]

Walking the Nepoleon Route is really all about views. It if is cold and foggy, why go that way. The down hill is a killer in the knees.

 

[trecile]

The down hill is a killer in the knees.

Not if you take the more gentle path to the right.

 

[AR1965]

Not if you take the more gentle path to the right.

View attachment 167646

There's an alternate path down from Roncevalles?

 

[trecile]

There's an alternate path down from Roncevalles?

There's an alternate path down to Roncesvalles.

 

[trecile]

Here's the weather forecast for the top of the mountain on the Napoleon route

14 Day Weather Collado de Bentarte - meteoblue

The professional 14-day weather trend for Collado de Bentarte. Showing the uncertainty and reliability of the weather forecast.

www.meteoblue.com

 

[AR1965]

There's an alternate path down to Roncesvalles.

I see. Thank you. That's part of the Napolean route? And is it well marked?

 

[trecile]

I see. Thank you. That's part of the Napolean route? And is it well marked?

It's s little hard to find the start of it, but it's on the Buen Camino app.

 

[michal.don]

The down hill is a killer in the knees.

To be perfectly honest, I'm more worried about the "up" part than the "down"one.... But I am aware of the alternative that @trecile mentioned, if my knees feel iffy on that day.

Here's the weather forecast for the top of the mountain on the Napoleon route

Yes, that's the site I've been watching dayily for the last week. The one that shows a temperature drop "just right" on tuesday, when I'll be commencing my walk....

Michal

 

[trecile]

But I am aware of the alternative that @trecile mentioned, if my knees feel iffy on that day.

I've walked the Napoleon route 4 times, and I've always taken the "safer" route. It seems that every time I've been in the pilgrims office in SJPdP they have a story about someone who's broken an arm or sprained an ankle going the other way. I'm in the "better safe than sorry" camp.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

For those reading this thread that are unfamiliar with the two ways down to Roncesvalles, the forest trail that is marked as the camino and the variant way following the road marked as the "soft" or easy way. There are a number of reports on the forum from people who wanted to avoid the forest way (it can be nasty when foggy, raining or wet) but got confused and ended up taking it by accident. The following thread discusses these two ways down from the Col de Lepoeder in detail and it has a lot of maps, aerial views and pictures.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/road-from-col-leopolder-to-ibaneta.75150/

 

[michal.don]

I've walked the Napoleon route 4 times, and I've always taken the "safer" route. It seems that every time I've been in the pilgrims office in SJPdP they have a story about someone who's broken an arm or sprained an ankle going the other way. I'm in the "better safe than sorry" camp.

From what I've heard, the dirt trail might be especially unsafe in poor weather conditions - muddy, slipery, etc. I also like to avoid unnecesarry risks, so if I have any doubts when I reach the top, I'll opt for the tarmac road as well. If the weather is nice and I feel good and fresh though, I might prefer the nice forest path over the road walking. I've walked plenty of roads on the Norte
Thank you for the advice, I do appreciate it.
Michal

 

[JerryStroebele]

On the Napoleon route I would be more concerned about a forecast of high winds than rain. Buen Camino

 

[Former member 104756]

I've walked the Napoleon route 4 times, and I've always taken the "safer" route. It seems that every time I've been in the pilgrims office in SJPdP they have a story about someone who's broken an arm or sprained an ankle going the other way. I'm in the "better safe than sorry" camp.

I've walked the Napoleon Route 3 times - and the Valcarlos route once - but it wasn't until the most recent crossing of the Napoleon (last October) that I took the 'safer' path. The forest path is atmospheric, for sure, but each time I did it - I was focused almost entirely on where I was putting my feet and not slipping or sliding. Each time I saw, or heard of, someone take a nasty fall that day.

I'll opt for the tarmac road as well. If the weather is nice and I feel good and fresh though, I might prefer the nice forest path over the road walking.

I wouldn't describe it as a road walk. At the beginning yes, but much of it was walked on a wide grassy verge - and the views are wonderful, and a picturesque entry into Roncesvalles. I thoroughly enjoyed it. If there is another crossing for me, that's the path I'll choose and not just because my knees are not as 'cooperative' as they used to be.

PS. The one time I've walked the Valcarlos Route it was early April and the Napoleon Route was closed due to weather. I was initially disappointed but, as it turned out, I very much enjoyed the Valcarlos Route. And it's no walk in the park. i.e. while it doesn't climb as high, much of the day is a sustained uphill walk.

 

[Simperegrina]

I've walked the Napoleon Route 3 times - and the Valcarlos route once - but it wasn't until the most recent crossing of the Napoleon (last October) that I took the 'safer' path. The forest path is atmospheric, for sure, but the three times I did it - I was focused almost entirely on where I was putting my feet and not slipping or sliding. Each time I saw, or heard of, someone take a nasty fall that day.


I wouldn't describe it as a road walk. At the beginning yes, but much of it was walked on a wide grassy verge - and the views are wonderful, and a picturesque entry into Roncesvalles. I thoroughly enjoyed it. If there is a 5th crossing for me, that's the path I'll choose and not just because my knees are not as 'cooperative' as they used to be.

Agree - it cant accurately be described as road walking, which gives the impression of asphalt

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I walked the Valcarlos walk on my first Camino and loved it. A new friend I'd met who went up and over the Napoleon said it was awful, she couldn't see, stayed at Orrison and the wind went in one ear and out the other all the way to Roncesvalles.
Two years later I walked it with 3 family members. I had made reservations for a few days ahead, planning the Valcarlos route again. The pilgrim office in SJPdP said we should go the Napoleon route because the weather was going to be perfect, but we didn't because it would have messed up those future days set in stone. I love the Valcarlos route, so kept to our plans to stop there, but I always felt disappointed to not experience the other.

 

[davejsy]

It seems that every time I've been in the pilgrims office in SJPdP they have a story about someone who's broken an arm or sprained an ankle going the other way.

Yes I had the same, I think they by default don't recommend the forest path and actively try to disuade people. We still ended up doing it as we had fine weather and dry tracks, and it was fine, tough on the knees like any steep downhill, but certainly not dangerous, and it was beautiful. It wouldn't be fun in the wet though and could be veeeeery slippy I imagine.

 

[michal.don]

Thank you all. I'll go the way the people in Pilgrim's office/my common sense advise, but it's great to know that whatever way I happen to walk, the scenery is going to be great
And, it's an amazing thing that there is a place on the internet, where one can get numerous pieces of personal experience about a quite random piece of footpath in the middle of nowhere in eastern Spain, in a matter of few hours....
Michal