LIVE from the Camino From Huelva on the Camino del Sur and Via de la Plata

[CaroleH]

Thought I'd set this up now, so there's no excuse when we're on the way. Hoping to post every few days after we leave Huelva on 25th April, to give a summary of route changes, accomodacions and general interest plus for you guys to offer encouragement when the going gets tough!

This all depends on my ability to find my way around Spanish computers of course, but I have good intentions ........
Buen "counting the days" camino . . . to everyone already out there. Carole

 

[lynnejohn]

Thanks Carole! And we wil be leaving Huelva on the 27th and adding to this. The route looks to be very interesting and we're looking forward to it as well! We'll help out with additional information!

lynne

 

[CaroleH]

In Huelva and it´s wet, wet, wet. Looks like our 3 camino record of only 3 wet days is about to change. So much rain many of the Santa Semana processions were sadly cancelled all over Spain.

We are almost packed and ready to head off tomorrow. Can hardly believe it!! :shock:

 

[alipilgrim]

Hi Carole,

All the best to you both for your Camino!! Thanks for all your advice on the Madrid route, I'll be thinking of you on Saturday when I start walking! Hopefully the rain will abate by then (though the forecast doesn't look great ).

Allison

 

[lynnejohn]

Hi Allison -

We are in Huelva and starting tomorrow. Itś beautiful here - just around 20 and clear sunny skies. (Carole, did you take the rain with you?)

Best wishes for a wonderful camino! Iĺl look forward to your posts on the Madrid.

Go well and safely...

Buen camino.

lynne

 

[peregrina2000]

Two of you on the road from Huelva, and one on her way to Madrid to start the Camino de Madrid! I cannot wait to join your ranks, but I still have almost three weeks.

Buen camino to all, please keep in touch and let us know how your journeys are going. Wishing you good weather and all the beauty of spring, Laurie

 

[CaroleH]

Here we are in Zalama La Real, for some funny reason, day 3 on Camino Sur. Where to start?

Overall. trying but good, easy walking (just as well for us!), gently uphill, as we follow the old rail line, mostly in along straight line, mostly well drained, a few flooded areas, left over from the semana santa downpours.. So lucky with weather since, sunny days and late afternoon storms.

This is a lovely walk, spring is a gorgeous time to do it, with wildflowers getting more and more abundant. Signage.... now thatś another story..... Started really well once out of Huelva but very patchy and confusing in parts since.

Huelva to Trigueros: The 4-5 km walk through the city and outskirts iwas not our favoutite bit. Cathedral interesting but locked when we were there and the Parque very run down and probably one of the less well cared for areas we have seen (think mucho peros). So wonderful to get out into the country and really impressed by the number of signs all the way to ... almost Trigueros. All sorts of signs and arrow.

Stayed at the HostalPlazoleta where the host was very genial and helpful. 25E, then a great pilgrim meal whenever you need it 15E all inclusive. Really recommend.

Trigueros to Valverde: Tried to leave early for the 27km day ahead, but I.ve had trouble letting go of some stuff, some gear we brought to see us through the earlier week in Spain. Anyway, Iḿ getting better and leaving things behind every day. Pretty walk along the risen up old rail line. first blisters appeared in spite of 1000 mile socks, Vaseline etc. Think Iĺl stick to sandals from now on.

Found the Ayuntiamiento in Valverde, where there can be accom for pilgs but not today. Maybe we were meant to phone day before., so stayed at the Hotel Montearoma. Overpriced at 52E we felt, tho everyone all over the place is very friendly and incredibly helpful

Day 3: Beautiful walk, so many flowers, love it. A few confusing bits. eg Guide says to go through 3 gates...... at the 5th or 6th gate, where the railway bridge is no more, we found it locked and had fun climbing over the 6 foot structure. Later discovered, itś possible to scramble down the rail siding and through fence..... Took the alternative camino route??. unmarked, to Zalamea, to stay at Hostal Casa Banda. Pilgrim friendly, well maybe. 30E, no hot water today and the smallest shower cubicle ever seen. .... but, a lovely sunny wall out of window to dry our pilgrim clothes. Great fun with clothes line!!! This computer in biblioteca is wonderful.... privat one upstairs.... people are so helpful.... and many we meet amazed that we are trying to walk to Santiago.

Buen camino Lynne and all the others out there. Wonder where Alan and Judy are now, and how Sue and co are getting on , 3 days out from Sevilla. All the best Allipilgrim and Laurie for the Madrid.
Gotta go and have that first evening vino blanco!! Carole.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Carole,

Sounds like you are a real camino pioneer. Wildflowers in Spain in spring are really something else, aren't they? Walking on abandoned rail lines is a treat, since the ascent is always so gentle. I remember somewhere on the LePuy route we walked on an abandoned rail track and it was wonderful. I hope the camino continues to treat you well.

And I hope the weather continues to cooperate. Eat lots of pastries in the Pasteleria Rufino when you get to Aracena. There are lots of really yummy choices! And the cheese from the Sierra de Aracena is spectacular. One of the nice things about walking is that you can afford to eat a lot of high calorie treats. And don't forget the jamon iberico -- quite good in that region, and filled with Omega-3 fats, so no point in resisting.

Buen camino, Carole -- Laurie

 

[melaluka]

Hi happy wanderers
We are really enjoying your posts and also the latest photo of Ian just outside a delightful village. It looks as if you have walked many miles already.
Hope your blisters are healing now Carole. The spring weather (well at least now) and the flowers sound sublime.
We visited Fraser Island, Queensland, OZ, over Easter, the largest sand island in the world, and what sand,as fine as white as baby powder. The moist, green and quitet rainforest (which actually grows on sand), and the crystal clear clear waters in the creeks and internal lakes nearby and 27C temperature meant we swam and really relaxed after exploring this magnificant island. Lovely.
Keep posting, its great to share your journey. Enjoy the addictive Spanish wines and brandy too. All our love Leesie etc.

 

[CaroleH]

Torrential weather gave us little option but to abandon the Huelva Camino Sur. Walked 6 days, missed the last 3. Rain so heavy and forecast bad, so after a couple of days waiting in Aracena for the rain to stop, we gave it up and travelled with Lynne and John to Zafra yesterday. All pretty frustrating and sad, but Ian and I walked to villafranca de Barros today and now ensconed in the delightful Casa Perin in Villafranca tending blisters. Will get back later with more details of the route.

Good to hear from you Leesie, especially about your trip. Thanks for the encouragement Laurie.
Met up with Sue and Margaret from Sydney today and spent some time with them on the trail. They were going great guns. Cheers everyone, Carole.

Alan are you still on track further north?

 

[CaroleH]

Think itś 4th May, and we are in Torremejia, tomorrow Merida, but to go back and fill in where I left off with our Camino Sur.......

Have come to terms with having to finish CS early, and we are plodding along the Via de la Plata, meeting lots of pilgrims. Cannot believe how many people are wlking this route now and albergues are filling up. This afternoon, along a straight stretch, we could see 3 or 4 bunches of pilgs, maybe 10 all up, scattered along, and there was a pressure to keep going, to make sure we got a bed. Not experieced that before, not done the Frances, and I wasn really comfortable with it. But I am getting ahead of myself...

28th April. Zalamea la Real to Minos de Rio Tinto and on to Campofrio. Some busy road walking then back to our friend, the old railway line, well built up, with lots of local joggers and walkers. Called into M de Rio Tinto to have a look at the home of this multi national company, a fascinating place, been mnined for something like 3000 years. The Museo is well worth a visit, really recommend.
The camino leaves Rio Tinto on a busy carreterra, (road) with little or no shoulder to walk on, and was the beginning of 2 days of more of the same. At first, it takes you right through the open cut mine and itś so breathtakingly stunning that you dont mind the cars and trucks so close. A few km later across an Embalse/ lake, with about 10cm between the metal barrier and traffic. Must admitt, drivers were all really considerate and moved over, but itś still unpleasant and dangerous if traffic is coming each way.. There are a few opportunities to loop off the road but no arrows that we could see, so I began to get creative and find any excuse for taking side tracks, sometimes this resulted in having to backtrack.
Finally, about 5 km before Campofrio thereś a left turn off the Carreterra onto an old Roman Rd that takes you up a hill and down into C. Worth the puffing and huffing. Right there at the entrance in C. Juan Ramon Jiminez, is Consueloś Bar restaurant, where Chela is a very pilgrim friendly young lady who feeds you and calls her sister to pick you up and take you to her cute little apartment, Meson La Cazula Serrana. 30E.
Thereś also Casa Rural Dona Librada and the Ayuntiamento.

29th April. Campofrio to Aracena.... Thereś an alternative country track out of C. but we couldn find it and returned to the Carreterra. Dark clouds were gathering and moving in as we climbed higher and higher into the hill country.Itś a long slog, and I dislike busy road walking intensely, so about 10km from Aracena I took off on the " Only in dry weather" cross country option. Ian stayed on the busy road and reached C way before me. I hurried along, enjoying the peace, but not the dark clouds rolling in and made all sorts of rash promises if I was not struck by lightening. Yellow arrows ran out, crossed lots of little rivers, and I got sort of lost, ending up in the beautiful village of Linares el ?? (sorry Laurie forgotten ) Finally made it in pouring rain about 6pm to Aracena, where lovely Ian had organised us a room with heater, at Hotel Los Castanos. Must have walked close to 30km.

Normally Aracena is a delightful mountain town, very pretty, but after 2 days of torrential rain and cold, on a public holiday weekend when not much is open, not a computer available, and no peregrino infrastructure, we were getting a bit sad. The camino out of A is over the mountain, in cloud and mist and torrential rain. We met up with LynneJohn and that was wonderful. On the second day, with a forecast of 2 or 3 more days the same, we 4 made the decision to go to Zafra and restart our camino there.
Better sign off. Hope this is not boring the pants off you all. Buen camino. Carole

 

[melaluka]

HI Cuz and hi Ian
What an adventure both of you are having. The rain has finally stopped on the east coast of Oz and the Autumn days are clear and bright and pleasantly cool. Carole I spoke to your mum and dad this week and they are both fine. Its mother's day this weekend if you are able to ring. Take care. Enjoy!

 

[CaroleH]

Hello everyone,
Been walking fairly easy stages because of... blisters.... and age!! Firstly, many thanks to Laurie and otheres who have given such useful advice re Vdlp.... has been a huge help.

May 1: Zafra. Albergue was full, but is a wonderful albergue, with small rooms, kitchen etc. May 2: On the way from Zafra to Villafranca de los Barros, came across Sue and Marg, 2 Aussie friends,.... what a lovely surprise. So off we went together for coffee etc to Almazora, the gorgeous Moorish albergue /restaurant in the middle of nowhere. About 15E I think.Tempted to stay but it just semed too, too early, to stop, but really recommend it to anyone wantin a short stage and quiet afternoon. It,s pretty special.

The 6 further km to Villafranca felt more like 10 as my blisters were bothering me.!!! Stayed at Casa Perin, as recommended, and enjoyed the homely atmosphere, plus free internet. Snoring man, from Zafra was also there but we didn't have to share a room!!

May 3...16km day. Short stages really agreeing with us. Have been feeling disjointed about this camino, because of interuptions, but I should know by now, that things happen, every camino is different and learn to go with the flow.
Todays walk... straight road through grapes vines and olives is lovely and the flowers are wonderful. Did the 3km detour off camino to Almendralejo, not signed and easy to miss the left turn. It's the second left turn with oneof those large Almen. Council notices. Hotel Espana in A. is amazingly over the top Decorated in some Rococo style, but cute and we had a great balcony for clothes drying. In fact that town probably was about our favourite for fun, friendliness and finding a church open. Bar/Cafe around the corner in C. Jose Luis Mesas Iglesias did great tapas and desayuno and in same street, Restaurant Via de la Plata does meals any hour, great for tired pilgs. Not sure how good the food is, cos we ended up eating at Restaurant Meson Casa Agustin in C. Frailles and it was good.
Best thing, we found the tiny Santiago Iglesia and were welcomed by the local ladies as they prepared for Misa. It was a lovely experiece and there's a painting of Santiago Matamoros, not my favourite Saint James but ....a lovely little experience. Back soon...

 

[CaroleH]

May 4: Almendralejo to Torremegia. Short day along straight, road, not muddy like the previous days mud slog, this day became a bit of a race for beds. At one stage I counted 10 or 12 pilgrims strung aout alon the track. Thanks to Forum members great advice we knew to keep going to the second albergue Turistico, the old renovated castle with shells on door. It is beautifully done, on the edge of town, with great facilities and a lovely hospitalero, Fermin, who is there for 2 years. There is a single or double room available but we only realised in the morning. A few Dutch pilgrims we spoke to late were in the other albergue said it was OK but wished they had found the A.Turistico. Thanks Forum.

May 5.... 16km to Merida. Half along busy roads, but with quite wide shoulders, maybe 1.5m... but not so pleasant. Second half, rural track, into grape vines and tractors, lovely and the first view of the Merida plain as you top that small hill is estupendous. Love the walk across the old, longest Roman bridge and into Merida and we were lucky enough to get into Hostal Senero,(only 28E for double) a pilgrim friendly, warren of rooms, small but really fine. Staying 2 nights here as we've met up with Dutch pilgrim friend, Wilbert, and need to wallow in Roman ruins for awhile.

Sue and Marg, got the message you left in Torremegia, and I hope we meet up again, tho Fermin told us you were pushing on to Aljucen. Go well. Today, met up with Lynne and John again today. So good to see them and will catch up on all the news tonight. Tomorrow we walk on to Aljucen.
Buen camino to all out there and isn't it good to see the sun shining so well. These days are now magic. :lol: :lol:

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Carole,
So glad to hear the weather has improved for you. Hope those blisters subside! I know what you mean about that wonderful albergue so close to Zafra. I would have loved to spend some time there, too. I'm hoping they are getting enough business to make it worth their while, because it is really a nice place. When I was there for a cafe con leche, there were lounge chairs outside on private green lawns that looked so inviting, but we trudged on.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[CaroleH]

6th May. Merida. Rest day for Roman ruining! Lucky enough to see a school play in the Roman theatre, bit like school spectacular. Lots of fun and pics. Sorry don´t know how to post pics. Best meal in Spain was had that night when we 3 met up with Lynne and John again. Will get back with name of restaurant, great paella in lovely courtyard, friendly service... the best. Maybe Lynne can help me out with name???

7th May. Few days with 3 of us walking relatively short stages but enough for us oldies! Merida to Aljucen. 17km. Clouds threatening, but only a few light showers and then beautiful, picture perfect skyies. Have decided to dedicate each day to one significant person and ´walk for them´.... today is my daughter, Fleur´s day. Amazing then how many horses I saw and touched, white horses, a group of riders galloping across the fields, and tethered in villlage we passed through.....you would love them Fleur. Amazing the insights and thoughts that come when the mind is cleared and the rhythm of walking takes over.
Stayed in Casa Rural Boveda, slightly on expensive side at about 40E I think, but lovely, owned by Ana who also runs the Albergue Privado, where we ate with the other pilgrims ... a fun, energy filled meal. 10E. The albergue is small, less than 20 beds, but a nice atmosphere, and camp beds were put up in the kitchen area to accomadate late comers. Ana seemed to be everwhere and do everything in that village, opening the Iglesia de Santiago to show us, then rushing off th prepare a special diabetic pilg. meal. Amazing lady, but has the village sewn up for making money from peregrinos. We looked at a large old deserted building right next door to the albergue and wondered how that would be as an albergue..... but it would not have the village support.....

8th May. Aljucen to Alcuescar. 21km. Up and down day, over rocky paths and past large cows with horns. Stayed in the Convento/monastery albergue, in that top floor dorm. First floor small rooms all occupied by the time we arrived, and the huge dorm was OK with our beds by windows, but a bunch of Italian cyclists joined us, and there was loud, constant coughing, more like shouting, all night. Not much sleep. Going off albergues!!!
Back soon. Buen camino a todoa. Carole

 

[CaroleH]

9th May. To Aldea del Cano. 17km. Fast walking day..... spread out, each of us with time to think alone. Loads of spring flowers, so many nesting storks, love them, 0n top of everthing.
Stayed at gorgeous Casa Rural Via de la Plata, in the Plaza Mayor. Owned by Teresa who cooked a simple lovely meal which we shared in her private courtyard. Great clothes drying courtyard. Really recommend and price about 30E. Good value.

forgot to mention .... back in the Monestory in Alcuescar, the communal meal with about 40 people is an experience, The food a bit of a hotch potch but worth for the sharing experience and the blessing in the chapel and sometimes a special pilgrim mass beforehand.

10th May. To Caceres. 24km. Our friend left us and we 2 hot footed it in good time for us, to Caceres. Temps rising to 30 plus. Booked into Hotel Iberia, and I have to say, it it one of the best value pilg accoms we have found. 40E inc. brekfast. Very helpful, slightly faded, but great value, and just off the Plaz Mayor. Wont be so quiet tomorrow night as the big stage is being set up for a rock music concert in PM.

<heading off ASAp, late start. for Casar de Caceres. So many pilgs, most albergues are full, esp the smaller ones. Hear reports fromsome who have not been able to get into any albs. In rush now. Thanks Laurie. Blisters are healing and we feel like we are finally getting into stride, taken longer than expecetd... but there you go. Camino has it´s own way...
With Lynne and John again last night.....Cheers, Carole

 

[FleurH]

Hi Mum!

Just a quick note to say how proud we are of you both. From reading this blog, it sounds like it was an up-and-down Camino at first, but that things have improved and are going really well now.

Have to go and keep slogging through the uni work. Will be in contact soon I'm sure via some method or another (email, text msg, phone, etc ... the options are endless!).

Lots of love,
Fleury

 

[CaroleH]

Thanks Fleur, good to get comments. Have not added anything for a few days, almost a week..... we are still here..... though have been through another tricky time. Combination of blisters,(now healing), bites (bed bugs??), and viruse has slowed us down. I felt like giving up 3 days ago but a rest time in Galisteo and slow, short day today of 10km and hope to build up kms tomorrow.... otherwise will take a long time to reach Santiago.!!

Sad news from Lynnejohn.... they had to fly home yesterday. This camino can be harsh and sometimes itś hard to understand the way things work, but I wish you all the best and will carry you in my heart all the way to Santiago ...or wherever we get to.

... but to continue where I left off.....
Casar de Caceres: Albergue almost full and looked really cramped. Will be great when the new one being built is completed. After much toing and froing we stayed in the really nice, Casa Rural Concepcion, about 1km out of town, which was tricky when we had to walk home in dark after sharing a meal with Sue and Margaret(syd) in town. AS Maraget was leaving the camino the next day, Sue decided to come on with us and we walked together and shared some great experiences over the next few days.
C. to Embalse de Alcantara: 24km. Lovely hilly walk early on, amazing views, then a final dash along tarred road for about 6 km which was pretty trying. We wereworried we wouldn get into the albergue, as there is nothing else nearby. The Lindamar Hotel definitely seems to be closed down.
Great albergue run by hospitalera, Patricia, who even did our washing in a machine!!Amazing the things that make a pilg happy. Beautiful position on edge of the huge Embalse/Lake. I alone was bitten that night, maybe 25 bites. There were mosquitoes, but the bites were definitely bed bug style, coming out the following day, blistering the next day and really ithy for about 4 days. Since have met others bitten similarly at Embalse. Otherwise it was excellent.
Canaveral: Lovely walk. Stayed in Hostal Malaga with rather grim landlord.. (Mr Happy). Betterto eat at Restaurant down the road.

C. to Grimaldo: Lovely sleepin till 8!!. Great walk through pine woods, some climbing, met Antonio from Brazil, who speaks 7 languages. Stayed in the little albergue, 12 places, sharing a 4 bed dorm with Sue and Frederika, from Canada. The little albergue filled up and still people kept ariving, inclusing a big bunch of Spaniards who were lots of fun, and found accomodation somewhere!! Itś a private albergue, but very cramped and basic, and the owner runs the friendly bar/restaurant next door and was amazingly helpful and busy. Itchy bites ensured little sleep that night.

G. to Galisteo;. After a pretty walk past the river and canals and being warned of the "gate" we had to tun left into, we got lost and wandered the fields........... to be continued

 

[CaroleH]

Back again, after a week of no computers, or arriving at libraries after they close, or being too tired to search. In Salamanca, our favourite city, having a day off, so will try to get up to date. Numbers still up on the Vdlp, albergues usually filled early, alernative accomodation necessary. Have found some wonderful Casa Rurals and Hostals, but of course, they all cost more dineros than albergues.

Galisteo. Some guides, say the problem of finding the route into Galisteo has been solved, but even with advice from others, thanks Alan, we still didn´t find THAT gate and wandered the fields, no arrow, no definite track, until coming out onto a track and refinding the arrow. I think about 90% lst their way, some worse than others.
Bar Restaurant Emigrantes was really welcoming and lots of pilgs we knew there. Great value at 20E for double room, inc breakfast. We stayed 2 nights for a rest day, and had a lovely restful time, sleeping mostly. The city walls, being restored, completely enclose the old city, and are pretty amazing, high and awesome. Did a great sunset climb up one of the towers and walked with the locals around the base.

17th May. ...to Carcobosa. Short day. 10km. Hotel Cuidad de Caparra, good value and price. 35E for double room, better than it´s 2 star rating, esp with big bath. Recommend. Carcobossa seemed a really friendly town with great vibes, everyone helpful. Iglesia de Santiago Matamoris, very nice little church.

18th May. Now trying to book ahead always because of the shortage of accom and numbers of pilgs.
Decided on the Hostal Asturias option. First half of todays walk is one of the prettiest sections, tho not at its best today with strong winds and showers. Lots of cows. Second half, heavy rain all the way.... boots absolutely drenched.... not fun.... no cover at all, unless we fancied getting into the occasional stock feeder which had sort of rooves!! We arrived at the Arco de Caparra at 1.40 to find the Information Centre closed at 2.00, but we were able to stay under cover there, change into dry clothes and wander the ruins for 2 hours until picked up and taken to Hostal Asturias, Jarilla, off the camino. Had a nice evening with the 4 other pilgs there, 2 from Finland, and Roman and Willi from Austria. Recommend the Hostal, tho dinner only vailable after 9pm and there´s nothing else nearby. Breakfast at 7 was good, and their blue arrowed trackback to the camino was easy to follow and delightfully rural. 33E for double room... pretty good value we thought.

Signing off now, hope to get really up to date tonight in this noisy but friendly Inter net cafe in Salamanca. Buen camino a todos, especially Sue, a few days ahead now, and Laurie, now on the Madrid, plus the great people with us on the Vdlp. Carole

 

[CaroleH]

Thank goodness for Altus(raincoat/poncho).... best investment!

19th May.... to Aldeanueva del Camino. Nice country walk through cherry orchards and fields of wildflowers with their tiny heads closed over against the rain. Altus, fashion statement of the day! Stopped at Aldeanueva for food and to see what weather was doing, but the sky looked mighty black ahead, so booked into Hostel Montesol on main road, basic, small, dangerous shower and noisy building. 30E.

20th May. To Calzada de Bejar. On tarred road, probably the N630, lots of the traffic now uses the newer, faster freeway, so the gentle 8km climb was not so bad and the country was beautiful. Through Banos de Mont., big Spa town and then a big climb up an old stone track, which became more and more spectacular as we looked back down where we´d been. Met a couple of crazy, guys, one from Germany and one from Chechia(?) who were to become friends over the next days and brighten many an evening. Then a pretty walk down into the valley, past lazy bulls and wonderful flowers and green forest. Then up a stoney track to Calzada de B. Am yet to work out why those last few kms are always much longer than the early morning kms!!
Cas
Albergue Alba Soraya/private and (Casa Rural) at entrance to the village are very welcoming with a genial host, food and drink available on request.

21st May. to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra. Lovely country walk, with mountains across from the track still with snow on top, and wonderful fluffy clouds, perfect for picture making!! The well known albergue at Funeteroble is a really interesting building, with beds somewhere, for about 60 I am told and a donkey across the street who makes the loudest noises.

May 22nd. To San Pedro. 28km. Long hard day, testing after our shorter lazy strolls, but we were feeling stronger and survived the hard climb up to the highest point, Pico de Duena. Blown away by the 360· views and spent a good hour taking pics and recovering, a special part of the Vdlp. The steep descent was really testing for our old knees.
Some of the guys who shall remain nameless, got lost and spent a few hours amongst the black pigs, decided they´d found a new camino, the Camino de Llomo or maybe it was Porkus!!

 

[CaroleH]

Cont.
San Pedro de Rozaidos: Stayed at the Hotel VII Carreras, Tel. 923344075. 30E, double for dinner, bed and breakfast was excellent value and it was a good spot to catch up with everyone. 23rd. ... to Salamanca. 24km. I walked alone this day, The most beautiful day, Ireally enjoyed doing some voice and cowbell recordings, lots of time to think. The sight of S. as you top the hill, even though it´s 15km away, just took my breath away, so I sat and took it all in, and then the walk down and across the crop fillled plain, and up onto the hills where the battle of Arapiles or Salamanca took place was wonderful, esp as S is our favourite city. Found the best ever Hostal in Salamanca, Concejo, Plaza de la Libertad, 1. Ph. 923 214 737. 45E for spacious double, pretty room with 2 balconies... yes 2 balconies, one of them a glassed in sweet space, large bath and spacious bathroom. We will definitely stay there again. Just wonderful and good value, 30 paces from Plaza Mayor!!Had to have a second night.... rest day... back soon when I can work out how to get to a new par. Carole

 

[CaroleH]

Just lost a whole posting.... something crazy going on here or maybe it´s my computer nerdiness!!!

In Zamora after bussing from Salamanca yesterday. Trying to get us back on schedule, so heading to Grange de Morureula this afternoon and will resume walking tomorrow. Feeling weird about all this, and can´t wait to restart. SueH rejoined us so we are 3 again which is fun, tho we´ve lsot contact with friends from last week and hope to see some of them along the way.

Zamora has churches all open so I must go and make the most of this opportunity.

Alan, was reading your posts on the following stages, when they dissapeared from this stream... am I going mad!!!???? Looked really useful. Buen camino a todos. Carole

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Carole,
not sure where you are now, but I hope you are enjoying the Camino Sanabrés -- or did you decide to switch to somewhere else? Take care of yourself, and if there´s any chance we´ll coincide in Santiago (I think I´ll arrive on the 19th, but it may be as early as the 16th), PM me and we can try to meet. Abrazos, Laurie (on the Camino frances in Burgo Ranero)

 

[CaroleH]

Now in Requejo de sanabria, next stop after Puebla de Sanabria. SueH been with us for about a week and we 3 have been walking solidly, 25 - 28km a day .... alll feeling like a break.... about 2 wks to go to Santiago ..... looks like we are staying on the Vdlp which is better, giving some continuity after our earlier stops and starts. Sue and I think it might be useful if we get together back home and do a combined update of accomodation and restaurants along this route from our perspective. Anyway, to continue where I left off....

Granja de Moreruela. Stayed in Casa Rural Tio Quico which was really wonderful, with use of kitchen and enclosed yard. Ian cooked a wonderful omelette, good to eat at home for a change.

27th May. 26-28km to tabara. Cold morning, so the ¨: buffs were pulled right over our heads.Bridge over river Esla stunning, then walk along edge of river and a scramble up the far side, then we got lost. This way, that way.... finally did the right thing and retraced steps to last arrow and found the way..... In Tabara, stayed in El Roble Hostal . Great value, good rooms, but poor service and bad meals.

28th May... to Santa Croya de Terra. long day, but looking forward to being at Casa Anita for our third time, favourite place on the camino. The camino now is officially redirected through Villaneuva de las Peras (and Bercianas is missed) and the excellent Bar, which I cannot remember right now, is doing a great job and are very hospitable and the food great. This is a much needed break on this long dry stage....

On the outskirts of Santa Croya I spied Domingo from Casa Anita driving past and he took our backpacks while we finished the final kms. Nice. Domingo and Anita.s daughter, Ana, is now running a tight ship and enjoying the larger crowds. There must have been 30 pilgrims staying that night. Have to admit I missed the old relaxed scene with complimentary glasses of vino and trips to the bodega.... but times changes all.....

Buen camino to all on the Vdlp Carole

 

[CaroleH]

29th May. Pretty worried about next few days accom with larger numbers of pilgs and not a lot of options for places to stay. We are usually the last to leave or last to arrive anywhere so cannot hope to get places in small albergues..... so we book ahead. Luckily, Ian can handle Spanish phone conversations....

To Rionegra 26km. Long day, some rain, too much rain. (Love our Altus) At start, lovely green stage through poplar trees and veg gardens... I only sample 2 small pieces of parsley, tho the leafy greens were very tempting.!!Hunt for cafe con leche, don´t bother looking in the first village. The bar cafe in Olleros de Tera is still open and the local lady we talked to there 5 years ago is still as friendly as ever..... (will update with names on our return to Australia) Lovely walk around Dam and finally to albergue in Rionegra, one of the best on this camino. it's large and clean, with dorms upstairs and down. The Bar Palacios make meals for pilgrims any hour and is where it all happens.

30th May. ... to Entrepenas/ Asturias. Thinking outside the square to ensure accom., booked ahead into the Casa Rural El Cuco. Sounds pricey!! Across the top of hills to Mombuey, wildflowers like gardens, gorgeous villages, time standing still. Enjoyed walking with our friends, Manfred (Germany) and Vassy (Czech) but they walked on and we checked into El Cuco... what a pleasant surprise.... most delightful couple, Ines and Manuel run a new casa rural. Best night, gorgeous rooms, best meal on camino cooked by Ines, fond farewells in the morning... really recommend.

31st May... to Puebla de Sanabra. Only 13 km, easy day we thought..... camino has other ideas. The marshy, muddy, clay swampy track was difficult and very slow going. Finally into Sanabria and book into the Albergue Casa Luz, good private Alb. and we score a small 4 person room, us and a Spanish cyclist!!! Casa Luz is great though and the best food in town seems to be Meson de Abalardo (as Laurie mentioned) in side street. Different class. Don´t go to Bar Trucha... food very ordinary!!


Must really go and let others use computer. Also Sue and Ian are back with the shopping .....
Hope the weather holds out for all of you good peregrinos out there. Thinking of you Laurie on the Frances and soon the Invierno... You are right, the flowers are amazing. Sue counted 26 different varieties ysterday. Bue camino Carole

 

[jl]

Hi Carole - loosing posts is VERY annoying. I usually copy eveything before I "submit" (sometimes if you take too long on the site it times out). I suggest that every time you do a post press Ctrl C just so that you copy it and if you loose it then you just press a new "post reply", press Ctrl V and it will be there and hit send straight away before it has a chance to time out. This is a regular strategy that I adopt! Buen Camino, Janet

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Carole,

Sounds like you are having a wonderful time. If it´s hot in Ourense, go to the termas municipales and have a relaxing time! Are you going to sleep in the Monasterio de Oseira?

Saludos from a cool sunny León (with rain and heat in the forecast), Laurie

 

[CaroleH]

Hi all,

Just a quick entry as I don´t have my notes with me, but I had to make the most of finding a computer. We are in <Laza, the Guardia Civil , who control the albergue here, have let me into the
Correo, even tho it´s Sunday and closed, bit spooky.... but ya gotta take your chances whenever...
Jumping ahead, will fill in gaps next time. For now.... we have just spent the most fabulous 2 days walking across the ´top of the world´..... from A Gudina to Laza and spent the night at Campobecerrus, a tiny pueblo which accidentally became significant for us on our first camino in 2006. Then we were stuck there for a number of hours (it´s a long story). and ended up catching/hailing a train from the deserted station 500m up a steep hill. The old station was deserted but an amazing stone building and we roamed around, thinking it would make a great albergue!! Yesterday we returned, expecting to have to walk the 34km through to Laza... but guess what?

The old station in Campobecerrus is now one of 3 govt. restored and renovated albergues on the Vdlp. It is wonderful, beautifully done, apart from the lack of water and electricity at night when the generator is turned off. Anyway, a special place for us, with fond memories and we settled in, just 5 of us, looking forward to a peaceful night. Then... a group of 6 Spanish cyclists invade.... how do they get to be so loud!!?? (More and more cyclists groups now in albergues, and the ambience is changed!!) We were disappointed, but saved by the fact that these guys were all on the tubby side and objected to having to sleep on the top bunks and the hospitalero was talked into opening the second dorm for them..
problem solved...

Meals in the same bar we ate in 6 years ago, Bar Darosario, not advertised but the very helpful lady there is kind to pilgrims and has a little shop and will do meals on request, no choice but great food. I now have lots of sunset and sunrise pics taken from the old railway station on the hill, and that little town has a special place in my heart.

The walk from A Gudina to Campo which many pilgs see only in rain and mist, was once again crystal clear and breathtakingly stunning as we walked across the top of the world... special, special place. Buen viaje a todos. Carole

 

[CaroleH]

After 49 days, we are in Santiago. Great to be here, enough walking. We did leave the Vdlp at Ourense, and go by bus up to A Coruna, on the north coast, and walked the Camino Ingles for final 4 days. Can´t say the 1.5 days getting out of Coruna were enjoyable, it´s a big city, and especially not the extra 2 hours spent lost and trying to find our way back to the Way, but the final 2 days were nice. I missed the pilgs we´d shared 900 or so kms with and felt our Vdlp had a beginning, a middle but no real ending, so don´t recommend doing what we did. However, in Santiago, have caught up with most friends and celebrated our journey together, so it´s all good now, sad but happy all together, still amazed we walked so far, still love Spain, still honoured to be part of this ancient tradition, pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

Will update the record of stages later. For now, buen camino a todos, thanks to all the wonderful hospitaleros out there. Carole

 

[Staggerlee]

Hello everyone.

I'm hoping to walk from Huelva to Zafra in late November and would welcome any advice and comments concerning this route.

Cheers

Andy

 

[Rebekah Scott]

If you are anything like the Staggerlee of song and legend, you won´t need any advice or even maps or guidebooks!

The trail from Huelva is not much traveled, but I understand the waymarks were renewed up to the Via de la Plata junction sometime in spring 3013. No guarantees of that, though, I have not been down there myself.

Have a wonderful hike. Please be sure to post here about your experience!

 

[Staggerlee]

Thanks Rebekah. Will do.

 

[CaroleH]

Andy, I've just posted on another stream, an overall view with a few helpful hints, about the Camino del Sur. I'll try to find the link for you, but if you can't find it I'll redo it here on our old stream.
After our 2011 camino being thwarted early on by torrential rain at Aracena, we went back earlier this year, late May 2013, and walked from Aracena to Zafra. Really recommend this route, especially if you like solitary walking and can speak some Spanish. I hope you do this walk. The wildflowers were the best we've ever seen and accommodation is varied.

The other stream is labelled Camino del Sur.
Buen camino. Carole

 

[Staggerlee]

Thanks very much Carole.
10 days to go....