Grocery Stores on the Camino Frances

[shefollowsshells]

While I should be packing and preparing for my Camino, I find myself with a few tidbits that I have wanted to share in hopes they will help others and supply a thread others can add to it.
I just in the past few days sent a friend off on her way ... walking the Frances, she is now on day 4, and she is having a blast!
Before she left (departed from the United States) I gave her a quick run down on grocery stores on The Way.
Might sound odd BUT if you are not familiar with the typical commercial grocery chain logo ahead of time you might not know what to look for. I was convinced they were all closed up when I needed them most

Keep in mind there are tons of wonderful "mom and pop" grocery stores who I loved doing business with BUT for those not familiar with these chains these are the logos of what to look for
Carrefours

Dia


Which leads to me to share...there is a Carrefour in St Jean. From the Walls around the city there was an obvious soccer field, cricket field, lacrosse field...over in that same area is a Carrefour. If you feel a need to pack a sandwich or grab some fruit OR even need to purchase bathroom items that you are not allowed to travel over the Atlantic with you might want to stop there. Here is their link with their times of operation.
http://www.carrefour.fr/magasin/market-saint-jean-pied-de-port

Carrefours in Spain
http://www.carrefour.es/tiendas-carrefour/buscador-de-tiendas/

Dia (I couldn't find a store locator with a list of stores in Spain), but here is the company site
http://www.diacorporate.com/en/

My friend walked into one of these stores in Melide and bought a Salad that was premade with some nice fixings reduced in price to like a Euro and 1/2...this was a wonderful meal. So if you feel the need the save money or just as important to bond in the kitchen look out for these on trail.

 

[CaminoKris2013]

Thank you, that is very helpful.

 

[Laliibeans]

Thanks for the information, that will come in handy.

 

[Thornley]

There is only one thing you eat at meal time in Melide and it's not a salad

 

[Felipe]

In Spain, there is usually a supermarket besides every gas station. Also, in some little villages, bars are also minimarkets (and social centers, btw).
If you happen to be in SJPP on Monday, there is a great gastronomic peasant market. If you go, you may discover why locals never, never buy pre-packaged cheese or ham...It is crossing the river by the modern bridge, besides the old walls. Ask for the basque goat cheese, and you will receive approving glances...

 

[CaminoKris2013]

In Spain, there is usually a supermarket besides every gas station. Also, in some little villages, bars are also minimarkets (and social centers, btw).
If you happen to be in SJPP on Monday, there is a great gastronomic peasant market. If you go, you may discover why locals never, never buy pre-packaged cheese or ham...It is crossing the river by the modern bridge, besides the old walls. Ask for the basque goat cheese, and you will receive approving glances...

On any Monday, or just this upcoming Monday? Because fortunately, I will be in SJPDP on a Monday!

 

[Anniesantiago]

On any Monday, or just this upcoming Monday? Because fortunately, I will be in SJPDP on a Monday!

I imagine it's on every Monday. Lucky you! You can pick up food to take you a few days. I love running across these markets on the Camino. Great places to buy now only food, but often other useful things like scarves, underwear, socks, etc.

 

[mspath]

Here it is on the SJPdP Office de Tourism site.

Open every Monday but Tuesday if Monday is a holiday
Various stands all day on the place Charles de Gaulle
Food stands only in the morning until 13h in the covered market

Bon appetite!

 

[Felipe]

Stale owners tend to be friendly and talkative. Ask them about cheeses, and they will give you a long explanation about all the dizzying varieties
Buen camino!

 

[Kanga]

On any Monday, or just this upcoming Monday? Because fortunately, I will be in SJPDP on a Monday!

Every Monday. The brevis cheese is famous. Brevis are the black faced sheep that pasture in the mountains. The hams and sausages are also good, lots of home grown vegetables and fruit in season. Also try piperade if it's available, the Basque national dish made from peppers, tomatoes and onions. Yummy.

 

[ilovelife]

Oh my goodness! Other than the social interactions with people I am also looking forward to the amazing food! It sounds as if the meals will be simple, and back to basics. None of this processed nonsense we have in North America.

 

[november_moon]

You can find processed nonsense in Spain if you want to
In fact, it is always fun to sample the junk food in other countries.

 

[t2andreo]

SUPERMARKETS: (listing here does NOT constitute endorsement by me or anyone)

There is a Carrefour supermarket in St. Jean Pied de Port. Here is the direct link:

http://www.carrefour.fr/magasin/market-saint-jean-pied-de-port​

Also, here are links to the various supermarket chains you will find in larger towns and cities across the length of the Camino Frances. These are links to the tienda or supermercados search page.

Dia - http://www.dia.es/tutienda.html
Carrefour Spain - http://www.carrefour.es/tiendas-carrefour/buscador-de-tiendas/
Eroski - http://www.eroski.es/tiendas
Froiz - http://www.froiz.es/centros.php
Mercadona - http://www.mercadona.es/corp/esp-html/donde.html​

Not all markets are found in all towns, or in all provinces. You need to poke and search at these pages. Postal codes help.

HIKING or OUTDOOR SPORTS SHOPS: (listing here does NOT constitute endorsement by me or anyone)

Here is the link to a peregrino - friendly outdoor shop in Pamplona, where you can buy things you forgot to buy and did not get before your started at St. Jean (la Boutique du Pelerin - http://directioncompostelle.com) or Roncesvalles (there are no shops of any kind at Roncesvalles - period):

Caminoteca, Pamplona - http://caminoteca.com/​

Also, here is the link to search for Decathlon sports super stores across Spain.

Decathlon - http://www.decathlon.es/ (Click on "Mi Tienda" in the upper, right-hand corner.​

Those of you from Europe will know what I am talking about. But, for the rest of us, if you break something critical, or need to replace boots, poles, sleeping bags, etc., and you cannot find it locally, Decathlon WILL have something that will suffice. They typically offer good value for the price paid, at least IMHO. Some locations are larger than others, but all are HUGE.

NOTE: Most Decathlon stores are outside the city centers and usually require either a bus or taxi to get to them. They ARE THAT large. Think Wal-Mart for sporting goods...

Finally, here is the link to the Peregrinoteca Shop in Sarria. It is directly on the Camino and quite good for it's small size:

Peregrinoteca, Sarria - http://www.peregrinoteca.com/tienda/​

I hope this information helps... One can never have too much information...

 

[EllenZimmer]

I am curious about Orisson and availability of food there. I am staying in the new hostel that does not provide dinner, Kayola hostel. I read on another blog something about carrying food from SJPdP... I really just wanted to know if there are any food markets, large or small in Orisson or whether we should indeed carry food from SJPdP. Also, if anyone has stayed at kayola hostel... Is there a kitchen? Thanks!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I am curious about Orisson

There is no there, there. It is just a one building town with the bar/albergue. Stock up at SJPdP. There is a kitchen by all reports.

 

[Thornley]

One of the reasons why Valcarlos is a great way.
Food at the market and plenty of it as well , thats your dinner after a great lunch in the village.
Be very careful how much you add with food and DO NOT put the chocolate's in the top part of pack....they have be know to melt.

 

[Olivares]

I stocked on fruits and nuts from a small "Momma and Poppa" on the same street as the office of Pilgrims towards the gate/bridge. Fresh fruit; can't beat that! Orisson does not have much in terms of market. I got a bottle of water and moved on.

 

[Kanga]

DO NOT put the chocolate's in the top part of pack

Or your pocket .....

 

[Thornley]

Kanga you will love this,
We had a 389 Penfolds in Valcarlos.
We were given this in Biarritz by a french couple [ Air France pilot] we exchanged homes with years earlier......it was a present to them when leaving as they ventured to next exchange on the Gold Coast. They also gave them good Penfold wines.
They met us at the airport , had lunch at their home and they drove us to train station .......just as we finished with the hugs the bottle was produced ... Safe Camino.............missus cried and had not even started.

The rain was terrible, the top path was closed , ferries from UK were closed and there was a girl from Brazil in the pavilion [ albergue ] in Valcarlos looking for the remains of JC
She was a very nice person but was having some problems , she had been there a week and we shouted her dinner that night.
German chocolate , a great red and tapas from lovely people in the cafe who really appreciated us stopping.
We paid them 5 euros for the wine glasses to use and had one of our best experiences in many camino's.

And Kanga the next day in Baguette ,main drag, No 27 Casa Rural , where this lovely family put the paper in our shoes , got the fire going and ran the bath in their beautiful home made us realise that this walk to Santiago/ Muxia was going to be a life changing experience.

 

[Kanga]

389 penfolds in Valcarlos.
.
We paid them 5 euros for the wine glasses to use and had one of our best experiences in many camino's.

For those of you not familiar with Australian wine, a Penfolds 389 is a classic red - not cheap. The average price is about $US70 a bottle.

But what better way to start the Camino than sharing a great wine!

 

[HelenB]

I am curious about Orisson and availability of food there. I am staying in the new hostel that does not provide dinner, Kayola hostel. I read on another blog something about carrying food from SJPdP... I really just wanted to know if there are any food markets, large or small in Orisson or whether we should indeed carry food from SJPdP. Also, if anyone has stayed at kayola hostel... Is there a kitchen? Thanks!

When I booked into Kayola, they said we could walk up to Orrison for meals if we rang ahead and booked from SJPP before we left.

 

[EllenZimmer]

Do you remember the cost for this per person? Or was it off the menu? Also, do you remember a kitchen at kayola? I hear reports but no one that actually stayed there has commented...

 

[t2andreo]

The Refugio at Orisson is a solitary, self-contained albergue. The cost of staying there for one night is about Euro 33. The price includes a family-style pilgrim dinner and breakfast. The dinner was very good and usually includes a ritual where everyone stands and introduces themselves to the group. It is a greart way to break the ice and meet your Camino family.

In addition, they will make sandwiches for your following day - to Roncesvalles - at request and provided you pay. I think they were Euro 4 or 5. One must consider that they literally have NO competition.

Breakfast was typical for the Camino: coffee - tea - hot chocolate, tostada (yesterday's bread toasted) butter and jams. Orange juice was available at cost from the bar.

Finally, Orisson functions like a cafe - bar throughout the day, providing light fare, coffee and drinks to passing pilgrims or people who drive there to dine on the fabulous deck across the street from the stone building. The views are fabulous on a clear day. The overflow sleeping accommodations are located directly under the deck. I was there last April and it was fine.

I stock up in St. Jean with my emergency fruit and nut mix, and perhaps fixings for a lunch. But the walk from St. Jean to Orisson is 8.6 km kilometers, all on an upward angle. So, mind the weight! It will take about 3 hours, more or less. Personally, I prefer to eat a good breakfast in St. Jean and allow all the younger, enthusiastic people who are intending to make it all the way to Roncesvalles in one go, get out there at the crack of dawn. Then I amble along about 930 or 1000 AM. It is a pleasant way to start the first day.

I hope this helps.

 

[lynnejohn]

Regarding grocery shopping -a faux pas I made on my first visit to Spain in the 80's (and ignorant of many local customs and practices).

You know how in North America we go through fruits and vegetables to pick the ones we want? So I go into a little shop and start picking up tomatoes to make sure I find one that is not overripe. The senora hurried up to me, visibly upset and told me to stop touching the merchandise! She then nicely explained that how it works is this: I would tell her what I wanted and she would select what I would buy. It was foreign to me, but I never broke this rule again. And I always got good tomatoes!

 

[marjm007]

Kanga you will love this,
We had a 389 Penfolds in Valcarlos.
We were given this in Biarritz by a french couple [ Air France pilot] we exchanged homes with years earlier......it was a present to them when leaving as they ventured to next exchange on the Gold Coast. They also gave them good Penfold wines.
They met us at the airport , had lunch at their home and they drove us to train station .......just as we finished with the hugs the bottle was produced ... Safe Camino.............missus cried and had not even started.

The rain was terrible, the top path was closed , ferries from UK were closed and there was a girl from Brazil in the pavilion [ albergue ] in Valcarlos looking for the remains of JC
She was a very nice person but was having some problems , she had been there a week and we shouted her dinner that night.
German chocolate , a great red and tapas from lovely people in the cafe who really appreciated us stopping.
We paid them 5 euros for the wine glasses to use and had one of our best experiences in many camino's.

And Kanga the next day in Baguette ,main drag, No 27 Casa Rural , where this lovely family put the paper in our shoes , got the fire going and ran the bath in their beautiful home made us realise that this walk to Santiago/ Muxia was going to be a life changing experience.

The Refugio at Orisson is a solitary, self-contained albergue. The cost of staying there for one night is about Euro 33. The price includes a family-style pilgrim dinner and breakfast. The dinner was very good and usually includes a ritual where everyone stands and introduces themselves to the group. It is a greart way to break the ice and meet your Camino family.

In addition, they will make sandwiches for your following day - to Roncesvalles - at request and provided you pay. I think they were Euro 4 or 5. One must consider that they literally have NO competition.

Breakfast was typical for the Camino: coffee - tea - hot chocolate, tostada (yesterday's bread toasted) butter and jams. Orange juice was available at cost from the bar.

Finally, Orisson functions like a cafe - bar throughout the day, providing light fare, coffee and drinks to passing pilgrims or people who drive there to dine on the fabulous deck across the street from the stone building. The views are fabulous on a clear day. The overflow sleeping accommodations are located directly under the deck. I was there last April and it was fine.

I stock up in St. Jean with my emergency fruit and nut mix, and perhaps fixings for a lunch. But the walk from St. Jean to Orisson is 8.6 km kilometers, all on an upward angle. So, mind the weight! It will take about 3 hours, more or less. Personally, I prefer to eat a good breakfast in St. Jean and allow all the younger, enthusiastic people who are intending to make it all the way to Roncesvalles in one go, get out there at the crack of dawn. Then I amble along about 930 or 1000 AM. It is a pleasant way to start the first day.

I hope this helps.

Thank you for that it answers many of my questions. A first time perigrino.

 

[HelenB]

Do you remember the cost for this per person? Or was it off the menu? Also, do you remember a kitchen at kayola? I hear reports but no one that actually stayed there has commented...

They did not give a price for the meals, the price per person per night is 15 euros. They said "if you want dinner or breakfast it's at Orisson( 15 minutes walking). You have to order it the day before"

 

[quietwun]

I knew about the not handling, but not the weighing. Good to know..thanks.

A related question...I have seen pictures of wonderful looking displays of dried fruit, nuts etc. In that sort of situation is there a person to help you and you request by weight? ( uh...sure...notepad works for numbers)

Now I am wondering if some places you might get your own and weigh it? I guess it all depends. Hard at the beginning.

Little things, I know, but using brain space that could be used for wondering about if I really should take a safety vest or bandana.

Lynda

 

[StuartM]

Just to add to supermarket customs....
In NZ when you get your fruit etc it is weighed at the checkout. In all the supermarkets I went to in Spain...you need to weigh and label your items yourself before checkout.
In Pamplona I was at the begining of a long line at check out when the cashier pointed this out. I am very grateful that everyone was patient and laughed it off when they waited for me to weigh my fruit.

Also in France too. I found out the same way

Strangely, in a supermarket near Marseille they refused to serve me without my passport if paying by credit card. Only time it's ever happened.

The weighing before paying thing is starting to creep into UK supermarkets (Asda, the British front for Walmart).

 

[Jacy]

Hi all, thanks for the great suggestions and tips! I'm doing Leon-Santiago and hoping to eat only out of grocery stores. Is this realistic? On the Albergues list here it seems food shops aren't available in every locality. Thanks for your thoughts!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

hoping to eat only out of grocery stores

Certainly. Just expect to carry your food for a day or two. You may not be able to find a shop in every town where you stop. In some one-albergue towns, the only cooking is by the albergue owner, so be prepared for that possibility, too.

 

[SYates]

Hi all, thanks for the great suggestions and tips! I'm doing Leon-Santiago and hoping to eat only out of grocery stores. Is this realistic? On the Albergues list here it seems food shops aren't available in every locality. Thanks for your thoughts!

Absolutely realistic! Even Foncebadon has now a shop ;-) There are very few, tiny, places that don't have a 'tienda' (small shop) but you will pass each day at least one village that has one or more. Buen Camino! SY

 

[Jacy]

Thank you Falcon269 and SYates - very reassuring!

 

[grayland]

Many of the very small quiet villages will have a very small shop that is only open at certain hours and often in part of the owners home. The hours are well known to the locals...so if in need, try to ask a local if there is a tienda. They often are almost impossible to notice as they do not have a large (or none) sign.

Also, I had a PM asking for clarification on handling fruit and vegetables in the shops.
The question was in regard to the small shop vs the larger chain type store. In my experience...the large stores are much like they are most places. You pick out your own choices, bag them..and in Spain and France..you must go to the scale and weigh them and put on the sticker.

In most small shops you point out the items you want and the shopkeeper bags it.

As someone said above...watch the locals.

I might also note that it is considered polite to acknowledge the shopkeeper with a greeting when entering a small shop in Spain or France.
A simple "Buenos Dias" or "Bonjour"(France) is all that is needed. A "Gracias" on the way out is appreciated.

 

[t2andreo]

Here is the link to a comprehensive post I wrote on the subject of grocery store chains, and other shops along the Camino Frances. It was originally posted on 19 March 2014. So, I gather most of the information is still good. BTW, I located this post by searching on the words "supermarket chains." The post came up immediately.

Anyway, here is again:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ores-on-the-camino-frances.24968/#post-195078

Copy this into a browser window and away you go.

I hope this helps...

 

[introspective]

YES to the advice to greet the shopkeeper on entering the store. In France, some of the "rudeness" tourists complain of is a reaction to the tourist neglecting that initial courtesy -- in other words the tourist started the rudeness (unknowingly), and the local returned it in kind. Eye contact and a smile are also highly recommended.

 

[naplesdon]

Be advised you are expected to bring your own shopping bag to most shops and larger grocery stores, so don't be surprised to be asked to pay for a bag if you came empty handed.

 

[txpeah]

Many of the very small quiet villages will have a very small shop that is only open at certain hours and often in part of the owners home. The hours are well known to the locals...so if in need, try to ask a local if there is a tienda. They often are are almost impossible to notice as they do not have a large (or none) sign.

Also, I had a PM asking for clarification on handling fruit and vegetables in the shops.
The question was in regard to the small shop vs the larger chain type store. In my experience...the large stores are much like they are most places. You pick out your own choices, bag them..and in Spain and France..you must go to the scale and weigh them and put on the sticker.

In most small shops you point out the items you want and the shopkeeper bags it.

As someone said above...watch the locals.

I might also note that it is considered polite to acknowledge the shopkeeper with a greeting when entering a small shop in Spain or France.
A simple "Buenos Dias" or "Bonjour"(France) is all that is needed. A "Gracias" on the way out is appreciated.

This was my experience in both small towns and large cities in Italy and France as well.

 

[Carol06]

What day

One of the reasons why Valcarlos is a great way.
Food at the market and plenty of it as well , thats your dinner after a great lunch in the village.
Be very careful how much you add with food and DO NOT put the chocolate's in the top part of pack....they have be know to melt.

What day is the Valcarlos market? Any other good ones? I have tried to compile a list of markets previously so can add this information to it.

 

[Thornley]

What day


What day is the Valcarlos market? Any other good ones? I have tried to compile a list of markets previously so can add this information to it.

Food was at the market in STJPJ , which was dinner .
Lunch was in the lovely cafe in Valcarlos as the top was closed.

Great market in Estella , main square , great pension opposite,
Fonda/Pension San Andres.

 

[jmcarp]

Not every village has one of the chain markets listed in the original post, but nearly every one has a small mom and pop tienda, or as they may sometimes be called, super mercado. They're usually just a one-room store that has an amazing variety of essential food items such as fresh vegetables, fruit, meats, cheese, and snack items. They also usually have inexpensive local wines. Be aware of afternoon closures during the siesta hours, though.

Someone mentioned taking a shopping bag along...we took a couple of these cheap little daypacks from Walmart < http://www.walmart.com/ip/Outdoor-Products-221681/19487073 > and they made great shopping bags. They compress into a small ball about the size of a large orange or a softball, and the price I saw in the store just a few days ago was less than what's shown in the linked page -- more like $6 or $8. Look for it in the display that has all the hiking and camping accessories. They're made by a company called Outdoor Products and may be available at retailers other than Walmart.

Also, regarding outdoor sports shops, we found a store called BASICS in Burgos that sold athletic clothing and equipment (my wife was looking for a light jacket). It's located at the intersection of Calle Madrid and Calle San Pablo. From the Cathedral Plaza go through the big arched portico (I think it's called Arco de Santa Maria) and proceed directly across the river, continuing up Calle Madrid for three blocks and it's on the left.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hi all, thanks for the great suggestions and tips! I'm doing Leon-Santiago and hoping to eat only out of grocery stores. Is this realistic? On the Albergues list here it seems food shops aren't available in every locality. Thanks for your thoughts!

In my experience, unless you are with a group of people sharing a meal every night, where you can go through a bag of pasta, lentils, a large piece of fish or what have you, it will end up costing you the same if not more, unless you want to carry all your dry staples with you for days and days and eat the same thing day after day. I am a fan of chorizo, and wish it didn't cost 15$ here, but I can even get tired of it. I have only seen one shop that catered pilgrims (Hontanas? I remember thanking the shop owner for this insight on our needs) by splitting up containers. Really, do you really want to eat 4 yoghourts in an evening and a pound of dry pasta? Even canned tuna rarely comes in single cans. If you want to do this, make friends early own and agreen on an arrangement where you will split costs nightly, will go potluck, or each will pay for one meal evey 3-4 days.

 

[SYates]

In my experience, unless you are with a group of people sharing a meal every night, where you can go through a bag of pasta, lentils, a large piece of fish ...

Lol, really? Two pilgrims can eat easily 500g of pasta (or the equivalent of lentils and, yeah!, fresh fish!, easily.) And the more , the merrier! SY

 

[naplesdon]

Food was at the market in STJPJ , which was dinner .
Lunch was in the lovely cafe in Valcarlos as the top was closed.

Great market in Estella , main square , great pension opposite,
Fonda/Pension San Andres.

Estella market day is Thursday and the traditional menu de dia in some of the finer restaurants is roast suckling pig.

 

[Kanga]

Some of the shops are so tiny they are easy to miss - just the front room of an ordinary house. Ask a local if you are in a small place and cannot find the store. But remember nothing is open between 1pm and 5pm - or on holidays, or sometimes Sunday's or Mondays (in France) or 'cause it was a nice day and Maria was having a birthday.... A packet of dried soup mix in the bottom of the pack is useful.

 

[Thornley]

Lol, really? Two pilgrims can eat easily 500g of pasta (or the equivalent of lentils and, yeah!, fresh fish!, easily.) And the more , the merrier! SY

SY,
We go there to lose weight , enough of this 500g.
Best restaurent @ lunch time , menu del dia ,
Dinner is fruit / cheese &wine.....& more wine and with equal amounts of H20..lol
Sleep better with a light dinner mate.

 

[naplesdon]

In my experience, unless you are with a group of people sharing a meal every night, where you can go through a bag of pasta, lentils, a large piece of fish or what have you, it will end up costing you the same if not more, unless you want to carry all your dry staples with you for days and days and eat the same thing day after day. I am a fan of chorizo, and wish it didn't cost 15$ here, but I can even get tired of it. I have only seen one shop that catered pilgrims (Hontanas? I remember thanking the shop owner for this insight on our needs) by splitting up containers. Really, do you really want to eat 4 yoghourts in an evening and a pound of dry pasta? Even canned tuna rarely comes in single cans. If you want to do this, make friends early own and agreen on an arrangement where you will split costs nightly, will go potluck, or each will pay for one meal evey 3-4 days.

If you are cooking just for yourself and do the math, you will quickly figure out that even something as simple as spaghetti carbonara or a salad made with ingredients purchased at the grocery store involves buying more than one can eat at one meal, a left over box of uncooked pasta, several unused eggs, too much lettuce, add in say the price of an avocado, bottle of salad dressing, if you couldn't find someone else's oil and vinegar lurking around in the albergue kitchen and you surely aren't going to pack the left over dressing in your pack the next morning, so if you don't do a group meal; I'd suggest eating some of the local fare.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

If you are cooking just for yourself and do the math, you will quickly figure out that even something as simple as spaghetti carbonara or a salad made with ingredients purchased at the grocery store involves buying more than one can eat at one meal, a left over box of uncooked pasta, several unused eggs, too much lettuce, add in say the price of an avocado, bottle of salad dressing, if you couldn't find someone else's oil and vinegar lurking around in the albergue kitchen and you surely aren't going to pack the left over dressing in your pack the next morning, so if you don't do a group meal; I'd suggest eating some of the local fare.

Absolutely - same food day after day, and a lot of waste.