Late fall on the Camino Frances

[Theoham]

Dear Pilgrims,
My plans for a spring 2023 Camino Frances had to be scrapped for work reasons. Now, again for work reasons, I can’t begin until Oct 22nd, hiking then to approximately the very end of November. I would appreciate any advice/feedback on hiking the Frances at this time of year, especially if you or someone you know has actually done it. Thanks!

 

[mspath]

Theoham,
Autumn is a great time to walk with generally golden days and cool nights. Although during past years albergues on the CF started to close mid October there was always some place open. When walking in October/November I usually stayed in municipal albergues and never had a reservation until the final days in Santiago.

You must be prepared for cold.Many who walk in autumn wear and carry lightweight but warm layers which can easily be added or removed while walking. Here are a kit list and tips
from the viewpoint of a woman who often walked in late autumn/winter.

Check out this earlier forum thread for earlier posts with helpful info re
walking in October- November.

Happy planning.

 

[C clearly]

I agree with @mspath that it is a great time to walk. I've done it a couple of times - successfully following her advice on equipment from the very first time. I would take exactly the same things I would carry for an early spring Camino - layers that can be combined for virtually any weather condition - including buff, gloves, wool socks, long johns, cosy layer for the evenings, light sleeping bag, and your preferred style of rain wear.

 

[lovelyshell]

I went in October to November and I think it was the perfect time. It was cold going over the Pyrenees and O’Cobriero but other than that it was nice. Only one hot day on the Meseta and a total of four rain days.

 

[Vacajoe]

Same advice as above plus plan for shorter walking days since you’ll have less daylight. Also, your choice of accommodations will be lessened due to seasonal closures BUT with much less pilgrims out there your chance of an open bed greatly increases!

 

[henrythedog]

My preferred time to walk. Obviously there’s a high probability of some rain. Not all accommodation will be open; but more than sufficient.

 

[peregrino_tom]

I would appreciate any advice/feedback on hiking the Frances at this time of year, especially if you or someone you know has actually done it. Thanks!

Theoham, it's a great time to walk the camino. The crowds will have thinned out and there should be sufficient places to stay. With fewer places and fewer people you may find yourself more thrown together with the same people (who walk at a similar speed) which is usually a positive - as long as they're not big snorers! You haven't said whether you intend to book ahead or not, or stay in smart accommodation, but you should find sufficient 'rock up' municipal/parroquial albergues for that to not be necessary. However occasionally the key ones close for renovations/holidays etc so it's a really good idea to do some checks ahead on Gronze or your chosen app. The situation is slightly different when you hit Galicia: a lot of the private albergues from Sarria onwards will have closed for the season, but the state (Xunta) albergues are generally open all year and usually warm and clean, so you will have somewhere decent to lay your head, even if us regulars have other gripes about them...
The first week it will seem really dark when you start in the morning, but then on Sunday 29th Daylight Saving ends and you'll gain an hour of light in the morning (and lose the same in the evening, where it's less important).
PS you may also catch the end of the chestnut / castaña season, where these prickly little jewels litter the paths on the latter third of the Way. These are a particular joy for late-season pilgrims. While they are traditionally cooked in an oven, pilgrims improvise by either roasting them in a pan or boiling them until the skins are soft enough to peel away... often consumed alongside cold beer or vino blanco helado

 

[Former member 104756]

Hi @Theoham We are also walking the Frances in October this year. We could have gone at any time, but have chosen this time deliberately as we think the numbers will suit us. Looking forward to it, and all that @peregrino_tom and others have described.

I have walked in October before on the Frances and the Primitivo (though a little earlier than you are planning) and both times the weather was kind. Some cold mornings and evenings, but I quite enjoy that.

We are starting further back in France, but expect to be leaving SJPP mid October, so will be a bit ahead of you.

Wishing you a buen camino. Enjoy.

 

[MichelleElynHogan]

Side Note:

The Martin Sheen movie, "The Way," takes place about that time of year.

 

[dbeatriceb]

October-November is my preferred time of year to walk. I love the cooler weather, smaller numbers of pilgrims, etc. Rain has never been a problem, unlike spring the year I walked the VDLP. Of course it’s weather we are talking about, therefore unpredictable. Bring layers and a sleeping bag. And extra money in case lodging options are more limited. The mornings will be cold and the days beautiful!

 

[Theoham]

Theoham, it's a great time to walk the camino. The crowds will have thinned out and there should be sufficient places to stay. With fewer places and fewer people you may find yourself more thrown together with the same people (who walk at a similar speed) which is usually a positive - as long as they're not big snorers! You haven't said whether you intend to book ahead or not, or stay in smart accommodation, but you should find sufficient 'rock up' municipal/parroquial albergues for that to not be necessary. However occasionally the key ones close for renovations/holidays etc so it's a really good idea to do some checks ahead on Gronze or your chosen app. The situation is slightly different when you hit Galicia: a lot of the private albergues from Sarria onwards will have closed for the season, but the state (Xunta) albergues are generally open all year and usually warm and clean, so you will have somewhere decent to lay your head, even if us regulars have other gripes about them...
The first week it will seem really dark when you start in the morning, but then on Sunday 29th Daylight Saving ends and you'll gain an hour of light in the morning (and lose the same in the evening, where it's less important).
PS you may also catch the end of the chestnut / castaña season, where these prickly little jewels litter the paths on the latter third of the Way. These are a particular joy for late-season pilgrims. While they are traditionally cooked in an oven, pilgrims improvise by either roasting them in a pan or boiling them until the skins are soft enough to peel away... often consumed alongside cold beer or vino blanco helado

Thanks for all of this Tom - very helpful. I'm not sure what you mean by "smart" accommodation, or "rock up" albergues. I do plan on booking ahead for SJPdP and the first few nights, using Gronze, Wise Pilgrim and others I may find. Thanks again!! - Ted.

 

[lt56ny]

Dear Pilgrims,
My plans for a spring 2023 Camino Frances had to be scrapped for work reasons. Now, again for work reasons, I can’t begin until Oct 22nd, hiking then to approximately the very end of November. I would appreciate any advice/feedback on hiking the Frances at this time of year, especially if you or someone you know has actually done it. Thanks!

I have walked many times at that time of year and 3 on the CF. It is a really good time to walk. Not too crowded at all. After October 31 many albergues are closing but there are more than enough that are open. It seems like as the years go by more people are walking but I only had one occasion in Astorga where the municipal albergue was full. But there were other options. I would say that you should download the Buen Camino and Wise Pilgrim apps and check Gronze.com. None of them are 100% accurate in terms of whether an albergue is open or closed. It is not their fault as it is often the whims of the owners. Most municipals are open especially the Xunta's in Galicia. I found myself checking in smaller towns especially to see if an albergue is open or closed. It is just a quick phone call. Weather wise, who knows what you will find. I grew up in New York and even though I have walked in some pretty wintery conditions I never felt cold. Walking can really warm you up. You should have no problems at all. It is great to see in the towns and cities that even when it is cold people still go out in the evenings and enjoy themselves. Buen Camino

 

[Keith H]

Hi @Theoham We are also walking the Frances in October this year. We could have gone at any time, but have chosen this time deliberately as we think the numbers will suit us. Looking forward to it, and all that @peregrino_tom and others have described.

I have walked in October before on the Frances and the Primitivo (though a little earlier than you are planning) and both times the weather was kind. Some cold mornings and evenings, but I quite enjoy that.

We are starting further back in France, but expect to be leaving SJPP mid October, so will be a bit ahead of you.

Wishing you a buen camino. Enjoy.

I’ll be in SJPP mid-October as well walking with my nephew. Might see you out there!

 

[Keith H]

Thanks for all of this Tom - very helpful. I'm not sure what you mean by "smart" accommodation, or "rock up" albergues. I do plan on booking ahead for SJPdP and the first few nights, using Gronze, Wise Pilgrim and others I may find. Thanks again!! - Ted.

Sounds like Tom is a kiwi to me but evidently NZ stole a lot of its slang from the UK. ‘Smart’ is nicer (think 4-star) accommodation and to ‘rock up’ is to show up somewhere without calling in advance.

 

[Jackypetal]

Thanks for all of this Tom - very helpful. I'm not sure what you mean by "smart" accommodation, or "rock up" albergues. I do plan on booking ahead for SJPdP and the first few nights, using Gronze, Wise Pilgrim and others I may find. Thanks again!! - Ted.

Rock up is just show up

 

[JabbaPapa]

Dear Pilgrims,
My plans for a spring 2023 Camino Frances had to be scrapped for work reasons. Now, again for work reasons, I can’t begin until Oct 22nd, hiking then to approximately the very end of November. I would appreciate any advice/feedback on hiking the Frances at this time of year, especially if you or someone you know has actually done it. Thanks!

It's a great period as far as the walking is concerned, the big difficulty you'll face will be closed Albergues, which in some cases will constrain you into "enforced" hiking stages.

Make sure to bring your wet weather kit for Galicia, and a woollen jumper or something for occasional cold days.

 

[truenorthpilgrm]

I've done it twice, and have concluded late fall is my favorite time to walk. It's cozy, quiet, with cool, moody days and fireplaces in bars a-blazing. The best part is walking into Santiago without a reservation (at least for me...I walked right into the Seminario at 20:30 pm, secured a bed and downed an Estrella Galicia).

As far as accommodation as the season winds down, Gronze is your friend, as is this website, Aprinca (bookmark it) updated yearly with a list open albergues during invierno, or winter. Some albergues might choose to close up shop a bit early, depending on the numbers of pilgrims (or lack thereof).

I like to use a combination of Gronze, my Wise Pilgrim app, the Aprinca website linked above, and because I'm a nerd, Google maps.

Enjoy! And buen camino...

 

[mvirtue]

Dear Pilgrims,
My plans for a spring 2023 Camino Frances had to be scrapped for work reasons. Now, again for work reasons, I can’t begin until Oct 22nd, hiking then to approximately the very end of November. I would appreciate any advice/feedback on hiking the Frances at this time of year, especially if you or someone you know has actually done it. Thanks!

Walking at this time of year, or later, I’d my favourite. A list of albergues that will be open after November 1st, is published every year, near the end of October. A link usually appears on this forum. Because you be setting off in the dark, you can visit the first bar, buy some fried eggs, bread and coffee while you wait for a bit of light. Rules for clothing are the same: one to wash and one to wear, except I only took one pair of pants (with tights or long underwear underneath) and then added rain pants for extra warmth, wind, rain.
It’s a beautiful time to walk.

 

[Herbst]

Theoham,
Autumn is a great time to walk with generally golden days and cool nights. Although during past years albergues on the CF started to close mid October there was always some place open. When walking in October/November I usually stayed in municipal albergues and never had a reservation until the final days in Santiago.

You must be prepared for cold.Many who walk in autumn wear and carry lightweight but warm layers which can easily be added or removed while walking. Here are a kit list and tips
from the viewpoint of a woman who often walked in late autumn/winter.

Check out this earlier forum thread for earlier posts with helpful info re
walking in October- November.

Happy planning.

Thank you for list and tips!!!!

 

[ForrestUS]

Sounds like Tom is a kiwi to me but evidently NZ stole a lot of its slang from the UK. ‘Smart’ is nicer (think 4-star) accommodation and to ‘rock up’ is to show up somewhere without calling in advance.

Thanks for the language conversions as I was curious also

 

[Keith H]

Thanks for the language conversions as I was curious also

I learned a lot living with Antipodeans for a couple decades

 

[AlwynWellington]

I would appreciate any advice/feedback on hiking the Frances at this time of year, especially if you or someone you know has actually done it

I walked Estella to Compostela in the later weeks of October 2017.

On the first day, left Estella very early with lunch at Los Arcos - it was already quite hot.
Then the long straight: nearing Sansol, I could see a solitary tree far ahead on left. And the road underneath seemed to be alive. As I came near there were about a dozen pilgrims trying to get shade. In the evening I recall finding the top temperature for that day in those parts as 38C.

After that days were "nice" and I recall not a drop of rain (or wind) anywhere along the way for the rest of that month.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong, get going)

 

[JesperK]

Dear Pilgrims,
My plans for a spring 2023 Camino Frances had to be scrapped for work reasons. Now, again for work reasons, I can’t begin until Oct 22nd, hiking then to approximately the very end of November. I would appreciate any advice/feedback on hiking the Frances at this time of year, especially if you or someone you know has actually done it. Thanks!

Excellent choice. Not so damn hot - however I must recommend you bring gloves of some sort for the early mornings. One of my canadian Camino friends once caught up to me outside a meseta town - it was early morning mid-october, and said: 20 euros and those gloves are mine. Also - it snowed when I reached O'cebreiro. But that's the camino - in Sarria a few days later and it was sunny and 25 celsius. I spent a few days in Barcalona before going home - and we sat at outside cafees at 11 o'clock in the evening in warm weather.

 

[Lianna]

October-November is my preferred time of year to walk. I love the cooler weather, smaller numbers of pilgrims, etc. Rain has never been a problem, unlike spring the year I walked the VDLP. Of course it’s weather we are talking about, therefore unpredictable. Bring layers and a sleeping bag. And extra money in case lodging options are more limited. The mornings will be cold and the days beautiful!

I am planning to do one of the walks (north, Frances or levante most likely) and it seems a sleeping bag is needed, but do you have any guidance on what comfort eating I should be looking for? Thanks in advance, lianna