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I need to switch it up!

F

Former member 59618

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Would appreciate some input/thoughts on my desire to switch things up.

I’m currently on my 3rd CF and I’m…almost bored (please don’t say bored people are boring, I think I’m merely experiencing a “been there, done that” situation). Last fall, I originally planned to walk a winter Camino and thought the CF infrastructure would suit my needs, it being quieter and such, but life got in the way. I ended up flying to Spain just before spring, where I promptly contracted acute bronchitis and hung out in a hotel in Zizur Mayor for 8 days.

I slowly made my way back into the trail, taking my time, but also not feeling excited about my day. I think what need is to feel as if I’m discovering something new for myself, but with the familiarity of the Camino.

I’m in Burgos, taking stock of my current needs…and thinking of heading north up arriving in León, hopping on the Salvador, then the Primitivo. Also, without a doubt I want to avoid the throng of pilgrims/slightly more chaotic feeling of Sarria, so I’m very intrigued by the Invierno as well.

I’m mostly healed up, but find I need to take my days as they come. I imagine I’ll keep rebuilding strength as I continue walking towards Leon.

My questions: are these new-to-me routes for more advanced folks (I’ve walked the Le about so am familiar with the up and down elevation from Le Puy to Conques)? Is it very lonely (I’m an introvert, but come alive during meals and wine-time). And…are albergues opening up this time of year?

Any and all suggestions would be much appreciated.
 
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I haven't walked the Salvador but I have walked the Primitivo. There is a fair amount of ascent and descent which might be troublesome if you are not fully recovered from your bronchitis. As for the numbers walking - far less than the Frances but you will almost certainly have company in the albergues. Not so many to choose from so your fellow pilgrims will cluster together at night . Now that Easter is behind us most places will be open. Gronze should be useful to find out which ones are not. Ultreia!
 
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Meaning no disrespect, and wishing you well on all your walks --- but --- holed up in Cizur Maior for 8 days when Pamplona was just a short taxi/bus ride away?!? Pamplona is one of the great cities of Europe. Cizur Maior is, well, not.

Pax, Fr. J
 
Meaning no disrespect, and wishing you well on all your walks --- but --- holed up in Cizur Maior for 8 days when Pamplona was just a short taxi/bus ride away?!? Pamplona is one of the great cities of Europe. Cizur Maior is, well, not.

Pax, Fr. J

You’ve made assumptions in your comment, so allow me to give you some context. I’ve been to Pamplona many times and spent 3 days there before bussing to Roncesvalles to start my Camino (and contracted bronchitis 36 hours later). Nothing was available in Pamplona during that particular week so Zizur Mayor was my only option. I was incredibly sick, with a raging fever and no voice…so staying in Pamplona (where prices are higher) was of the lowest priority for me.
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.

Happy to hear you feel better! Plus I can imagine , when you have been so ill, you were more than glad to find a nice and hopefully quiet place.
 
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when you have been so ill, you were more than glad to find a nice and hopefully quiet place.
The hotel was quiet and I just needed a room where I could cough in peace. It was within walking distance to a grocery store and farmacia.

And it ended up being a nice jumping off point when I started waking again. I did a very short test/trial day to Zariequigui and it was perfect.
 
Salvador and Primitive are doable. A fair amount of going up and down, but if a 59 year old man has been able to do it, so can most others…

Did it last year:
  • Started on the Norte, taking a left turn to Oviedo.
  • Took a bus from Oviedo to Léon.
  • Walked the Salvador to Oviedo.
  • Continued on the Primitivo.
  • In Melide took a bus to the Invierno.
  • Invierno to SdC.
For what it’s worth: to me the Salvador is of stunning beauty.

Happy planning!
 

Ah great thanks for this feedback! This is exactly what I’m thinking of doing.
 
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Hi @truenorthpilgrim

Sorry to hear of your health woes, but glad you are back on the trail.

I’m mostly healed up, but find I need to take my days as they come.
I would probably avoid the Salvador in this case. There are not many options in terms of distances and even a couple of short km days ‘in the middle’ are very strenuous. I recall taking almost 6 hours to walk 15 kms !

)? Is it very lonely (I’m an introvert, but come alive during meals and wine-time). And…are albergues opening up this time of year?

I’d recommend the Primitivo - easy bus ride from Leon. You won’t be lonely, no crowds but enough pilgrims for friendly encounters and comraderie in the evenings - at least that’s how it was when I last walked it in October 2019 and It still reminded me of the Frances 12 years ago. It has great infrastructure and some special albergues. Add to that Oviedo and Lugo - two fabulous towns

If you don’t want to join the Frances at Melide I have read there is an alternative path after Lugo, though I haven’t taken it. I very much enjoyed the two days between Lugo and Melide and there are at least two excellent Albergues at Ferreira. The crowds after Melide didn’t bother me, in fact I met an inspiring group of women walking 100 kms to raise money for a palliative care hospital - a healthy reminder to me of the many reasons people walk the camino irrespective of how far

But if you have time to go from Melide by bus to Ponferrada to walk the Invierno, then the post Melide crowds won’t be an issue. I haven’t walked the Inviernô yet, so can’t provide any insight into how the numbers are these days, in terms of your concern about a path being lonely.

are these new-to-me routes for more advanced folks (I’ve walked the Le about so am familiar with the up and down elevation from Le Puy to Conques)

I’ve walked the Primitivo and the Le Puy Way. I don’t think the Primitivo is any more difficult than Le Puy to Conques.

Hope that helps.

Best wishes whatever you decide.
 
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The Salvador can be broken up into as many as 9 stages, but yes, there are some strenuous sections.

If you walk to León you would probably regain your strength along the Meseta.
If you do the Salvador there are a couple of places where the albergues want to know in advance that you'll be there. There were phone numbers to call in the albergue in La Robla
 
@Elle Bieling has a good guide for the Salvador where you can see plans for walking anywhere between 4 and 9 days.

 
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Thank you so much for your thoughtful and detailed response. Appreciate the information!
 
That’s interesting. I didn’t know that. It’s some years since we walked the Salvador so seems my comment is out of date
 
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I have walked the El Salvador three times. I always find it quite strenuous going over from Poladura to Parajes. Last time was two years ago in July 2021 and I was a very exhausted 73 year old. I would not recommend it if you are not in the best of health.
Buen Camino
 
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Glad to hear that you're feeling better. I'd vote for the option to walk the Salvador and Primitivo. I've done both (Primitivo twice) and loved them. I've also walked Le Puy - Conques and would say that the Salvador and Primitivo may be a bit more strenuous but then again I didn't find Le Puy - Conques difficult.

Albergues are now open so that should not be a problem. My guess is that there will be more on the Primitivo but who knows this year.

Good luck in choosing!
 
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Hi. I walked the Salvador last August and it was very quiet meeting only 5 pilgrims en route. On arriving in Oviedo the Albergue was full with pilgrims who had walked the same route but who had stayed in different accommodations. Practically all of them were continuing on the Primitivo. So basically you may have a quiet 5 days until Oviedo but it should be a lot busier from there. Daniel
 
I did not see a mention of the VdlP.....I have walked most of the routes mentioned here and would agree that they are all good suggestions including the Le Puy stages.

Take a look at the VdlP from Salamanca or if the timing is bad...look at the Sanabres. Both have a fair amount of pilgrim activity and feel a lot like a throw back to the old camino atmosphere..
 
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Another vote for the Sanabres. Though I have not walked the Salvador, so I don't know how it compares.
 
Have you tried the Via Francigena
 
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After doing both the Salvador/Primitivo and the Sanabres, I would say the Sanabres is easier. The Salvador is very steep in places! But they are similar in that they both have phenomenal mountain crossings and views!! As long as you take your time and do the smaller stages, you would be fine on both.
 
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In terms of strenuous vs less strenuous, I wouldn’t recommend the Primitivo or Salvador. You could, however, head up to the northern coast — you probably have time to walk from somewhere just west of Bilbao but would need to calculate daily mileage.
The other suggestion someone already made, and which I agree with whole heartedly, is to investigate the Camino Sanabres, perhaps starting in Salamanca. It’s beautiful and not as strenuous as some of the others. I walked this route a few years ago in spring and found the solitude I prefer during the day plus sufficient (not too much and not too little) pilgrim community in the evenings. There are albergues as well as pensiones and small hotels. Check gronze . com for current lodging options, ratings, maps, etc.

It is my understanding there isn’t much Camino infrastructure on the Invierno and one would need to stay in hotels the majority of the time. Of course the CF tops all the other routes in terms of established pilgrim related infrastructure, so with other routes there is always more adventure and uncertainty. But this, to me, makes it more fun. I can certainly understand the been-there-done-that feeling. Your instinct is probably right— time to venture into unknown territory. Whatever you choose, it will be fun!
 
I think there is a lot more infrastructure now than a few years ago. Several thread with people walking the Invierno in the last year so you can double check those...
 
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