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The big map o the Caminos de Santiago

Live from the Ruta do Mar

Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Port. Cost
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#4
I'll be really interested to read what you say once you leave the Norte.

I know the area very well, but only by car, so I'd love to know how you deal with the lack of infrastucture.

You're going to love places like San Andrés de Teixido!
 

Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (15 April 2013)
Camino Portuguese (1 May 2014)
Camino Mozárabe from Málaga (8 April 2015)
Camino del Norte & Camino Ingles (April 2016)
#6
I'll be really interested to read what you say once you leave the Norte.

I know the area very well, but only by car, so I'd love to know how you deal with the lack of infrastucture.

You're going to love places like San Andrés de Teixido!

So far, so good
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Port. Cost
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#8
In the first place, Magwood, I would like to thank you for your marvellous summaries of each stage. I know the area really well, and recognise practically all the places you have passed through.

Praia de Area, just before you drop down to Celorio, is indeeed one of the best beaches you are ever likely to come across in the north of Spain, especially as it is really protected from what can often be a fairly rough Cantábrico.

I have no idea why you would choose to stay the night in Covas (a one street suburb, with lots of empty apartment blocks by the beach and football ground, with not a great deal to offer), when you have the marvellous old walled town of Viveiro on your left before you cross the estuary. Viveiro has everything that you seem to keep on saying that you cannot find, I guarantee.
 

Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (15 April 2013)
Camino Portuguese (1 May 2014)
Camino Mozárabe from Málaga (8 April 2015)
Camino del Norte & Camino Ingles (April 2016)
#11
In the first place, Magwood, I would like to thank you for your marvellous summaries of each stage. I know the area really well, and recognise practically all the places you have passed through.

Praia de Area, just before you drop down to Celorio, is indeeed one of the best beaches you are ever likely to come across in the north of Spain, especially as it is really protected from what can often be a fairly rough Cantábrico.

I have no idea why you would choose to stay the night in Covas (a one street suburb, with lots of empty apartment blocks by the beach and football ground, with not a great deal to offer), when you have the marvellous old walled town of Viveiro on your left before you cross the estuary. Viveiro has everything that you seem to keep on saying that you cannot find, I guarantee.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing. I wish I had your knowledge before making my plan which is mainly based on stage distance. Covas was indeed a most unappealing town and I felt quite uncomfortable there. But to be honest, what I saw walking along the port-side of Viveiro didn't look much better. There is obviously a hidden gem lurking behind an uninteresting facade. I am sure your information will help those to come. Many thanks for your input. I will share my plans with you later and perhaps you can give me some suggestions.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Port. Cost
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#12
Hindsight is a wonderful thing. I wish I had your knowledge before making my plan which is mainly based on stage distance. Covas was indeed a most unappealing town and I felt quite uncomfortable there. But to be honest, what I saw walking along the port-side of Viveiro didn't look much better. There is obviously a hidden gem lurking behind an uninteresting facade. I am sure your information will help those to come. Many thanks for your input. I will share my plans with you later and perhaps you can give me some suggestions.
I have often wondered why the Camiño do Mar cuts inland from the sea after Viveiro/Covas, thus missing out on absolutely fantastic places like O Barqueiro (with a possible detour up to Estaca do Bares) and Espasante. I'll be interested to see which route you take.

Buen camino, and keep your wonderful reports coming!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Port. Cost
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#14

Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (15 April 2013)
Camino Portuguese (1 May 2014)
Camino Mozárabe from Málaga (8 April 2015)
Camino del Norte & Camino Ingles (April 2016)
#16
View attachment 26098 O Barqueiro, taken from my private helicopter!
Can I beg a ride if you are in the area? I am staying just behind where the yellow car is parked. Just back from a great hike out to Estaca do Bares - magic!

Next stop el Mejor Banco del Mundo. I had originally intended to stay at Porto do Espasante, which would make a long following day to Cedeira. Any alternative suggestions?
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Port. Cost
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#17
Can I beg a ride if you are in the area? I am staying just behind where the yellow car is parked. Just back from a great hike out to Estaca do Bares - magic!

Next stop el Mejor Banco del Mundo. I had originally intended to stay at Porto do Espasante, which would make a long following day to Cedeira. Any alternative suggestions?
Sorry, but I'm stuck down in beautiful Salamanca (my home town) until I set off on the Invierno in a couple of weeks' time.

I sincerely hope that you're not going to spend the whole day at the Banco Más Bonito del Mundo! Having said that, if you ever get the chance to be there at sunset it is spectacular.

From the bench down to O Porto de Espasante is a reasonably short stretch, and you should be able to do most of it without getting onto the main road.

The Hotel Orillamar has great sea views (Espasante is in between two beaches), but it probably needs a bit of a facelift. If you have time it might be better to carry on to Ortigueira, where there are more places on offer.

It seems as though you'll be then heading down to Cedeira, a pretty enough seaside town. If you're feeling adventurous, though, get up to San Andrés de Teixido, another pilgrimage site, but it would involve some incredibly steep climbs.

21170487726_7189538fc1_b.jpg There's your 'banco'!

Cedeira2 004.JPG San Andrés de Teixido.
 
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Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Port. Cost
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#18
Cerdeira2013 002.JPG One more thought for today: if/when you get to Cedeira, you simply MUST sample the local speciality. It's marrajo, a sort of baby shark. Don't be put off, though, as it is quite delicious and incredibly tender. By far the best establishment to try it (it's ALWAYS on) is in Mesón Muiño Kilowatio, alongside the river.
A tapa of ma View attachment 26150 rrajo will come with chips and bread, accompanied by a nice fresh glass of the house Albariño, and will only set you back a few euros. Photo here:
 

Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (15 April 2013)
Camino Portuguese (1 May 2014)
Camino Mozárabe from Málaga (8 April 2015)
Camino del Norte & Camino Ingles (April 2016)
#23
View attachment 26151 One more thought for today: if/when you get to Cedeira, you simply MUST sample the local speciality. It's marrajo, a sort of baby shark. Don't be put off, though, as it is quite delicious and incredibly tender. By far the best establishment to try it (it's ALWAYS on) is in Mesón Muiño Kilowatio, alongside the river.
A tapa of ma View attachment 26150 rrajo will come with chips and bread, accompanied by a nice fresh glass of the house Albariño, and will only set you back a few euros. Photo here:
Acted as instructed - many thanks for the advice
 

Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (15 April 2013)
Camino Portuguese (1 May 2014)
Camino Mozárabe from Málaga (8 April 2015)
Camino del Norte & Camino Ingles (April 2016)
#24
Beautiful, as ever, Magwood! Thanks for sharing this day after day.

I said that there were great sea views from the Hotel Orillamar in Espasante! You seem to have got a good deal there!
Yes, I seemed to have fallen on my feet rather than on my back whilst climbing the cliff!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Port. Cost
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#25
I'm so pleased that you managed to get up to San Andrés de Teixido. I've only ever been there by car, and it's a long hard slog up from the coast. Well worth it for the spectacular views, though, although it's only a tiny village.

By the way, there is absolutely no shame in catching a train for a few kilometres. You've managed to miss out a pretty boring plod around the estuary south of Ortigueira.

I'm also glad that you liked the marraxo in Cedeira. Seeing your photo brought back happy memories and definitely had my taste buds going!

Buen Camino!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés, Inglés, Fisterra/Muxia, Baztanés x2, Primitivo, Norte, Portugués & hopefully many more.
#26
@Magwood, your blog and photographs are a delight. You've created a great resource for anyone thinking of walking this route. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us.
 
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Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Port. Cost
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#27
@Magwood, your blog and photographs are a delight to read. You've created a great resource for anyone thinking of walking this route. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us.
I second that! I'm sure that day after day we all eagerly await the link to your marvellous blog. Thank you.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francés
Portugués
Portugués Var. Esp.
Port. Cost
Fisterra
Inglés
Invierno
Norte
Sanabrés
Primitivo
#29
Thanks, once again. It's a pity you had to walk down the main road for much of the way. This probably meant that you missed out on wonderful beaches around Valdoviño.

I imagine you'll be in Pontedeume tomorrow. Bar Luís is a good place to stay, or the Hostal Alleguer just in front. There's a lovely beach in Cabañas, just before you cross over the bridge into Pontedeume. Enjoy!
 

Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (15 April 2013)
Camino Portuguese (1 May 2014)
Camino Mozárabe from Málaga (8 April 2015)
Camino del Norte & Camino Ingles (April 2016)
#31
Taking all the notes I can!!!!
Been reading your blog and now tempted to add this to our walk in the Spring of next year...just booked my two youngest children and I to be in Lisbon on March 17th!!!!!
You are a wealth of information!!!
Thank you!!!!
So glad it has been useful. What ages are your children?
 

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