LIVE from the Camino On my way tomorrow!

[LTfit]

Forgot to make a comment about the last two days in the mountains:
no one told me that there would be swarms of flies

Sorry, couldn't help myself. I'm not as understanding as some Forum members and moderators. And if you don't understand the remark, don't worry, you haven't missed anything.

 

[WestKirsty]

Too late for your visit with Sonia, but any pilgrim albergue in need of repairs or equipment should consider an application for help with APOC (American Pilgrims). They give out a lot of grants every year, maximum $6,000, but requests can be submitted in multiple years. Here’s the Spanish version of the page.

I'll be there tomorrow and will mention it to Sonia!

 

[LTfit]

June 27 Day 11, stage 12B
Cistierna - Boñar 30.7 km Wikiloc

This was the alternative stage although I'm not sure what the difference is with the A except that the B is 3 km longer.

I've decided to call this stage "entremontañas" because that's exactly what it was like. Yesterday I left the Montaña Leonesa and tomorrow I'll be rejoining them. So today was the "in between mountain" stage.

The Camino brings you through wooded areas and fields with the occasional climb but nothing taxing (a total of 477 meter elevation gain with1,274 meters being the highest point). Both routes go through La Ercina (13 km from Cistierna,) a town that was expected to have a bar. No such luck. The one and only has been closed due to jubilación. The owner retired and no one has taken it over. There is a se vende sign if anyone is interested. So you're forewarned, there are no services during this stage. I did see a fountain or two though, in fact one in a hamlet 5 km before Boñar. I was quite the attraction - "Where are you from?", "Aren't you afraid walking alone?" There were 3 vecinos by the fountain by now and when they heard that I was from Holanda a neighbor was called over to meet me, Flemish woman. She met her Spanish husband 50 years ago in Switzerland and are still together living in this village! She was quite nice and kept asking if I needed anything. I actually did want a coffee but didn't ask as I only had 5 km more to go.

Signage continues to be good now that I'm in León.

Here a few pictures in order of the day:









Room in Hostal Nisi. Outdated but perfectly fine with a private bath for €20. Do call to reserve as they have no email address or WhatsApp and don't answer sms.

 

[laineylainey]

Is there a shop in Boñar or somewhere to get food?

 

[LTfit]

Is there a shop in Boñar or somewhere to get food?

There are two, a Día and a Lupa, both large and have hummus. Me happy. There is also a Spar 2 doors down from Hostal Nisi if you don't want to walk to the others.

I like Boñar much more than Cistierna, it just feels different, friendlier and has many other stores. Also an open church! Take a close look at the bell tower.







Cistierna has a bazar chino and an Alcampo supermarket near Hostal Moderno, didn't do any walking on the other side of town.

 

[LTfit]

Received this in my email box today. Perfect.

"No matter where life takes you, the place that you stand at any moment is holy ground. Love hard, and love wide and love long and you will find the goodness in it."
Susan Vreeland

Today's walk
June 28, day 12, stage 13B
Boñar - Vegacervera +/- 28.5 km (difference Wikiloc and Garmin)
Max elevation 1,496 meters with elevation gain of 741.

Today I took another B route taking me up and through the mountains. The first 10 km were easy with little variation.



There were some gradual inclines but nothing taxing. Then the serious business started. The path was pretty narrow and very rocky, thank goodness for walking poles. I slipped twice but got back up without any damage.



I have a ton of pictures and these thumbnails don't do justice to the immensity and grandeur of it all.

If you're into hiking in the mountains this day would have you smiling (when not huffing and puffing ). The downhill was also pretty tricky, once again the walking poles kept me upright.

Not one bar was open before or after the climb so I'm glad there was one open in Boñar before I left. Here in Vegacervera the bar is closed for vacation so the wife of the owner of this place went home and brought me a beer and a snack of embutido, famous in this region. When she heard I am vegan she brought me gazpacho



Staying in a wooden cabin of my own tonight. The rest of the cabins are filled with young children on a field trip.

Tomorrow the tricky part after Villar. Send me good juju please.

 

[peregrina2000]

I have a ton of pictures and these thumbnails don't do justice to the immensity and grandeur of it all.

I am so glad you had good weather. I can still remember huffing and puffing up to the top, seeing Alun ahead of me just planted there, and finally reaching the high point where the spectacular view unfolded. It’s one of the most dramatic aha moments that I can remember on any camino, the way the mountains just appear as you reach the top.

We had our own cabin there, too, with the rest filled with very energetic teens. We managed to snag showers while they were eating.

And by the way, you will pass through Coladilla tomorrow, where they make an amazing sheep’s milk yoghurt. It will probably be closed when you go through, but you might find some in the two places in Vegacervera that sell embutidos, because they also have some other stuff, or at least they did.

Tomorrow will be awesome!

 

[LTfit]

We had our own cabin there, too, with the rest filled with very energetic teens. We managed to snag showers while they were eating.

I think they give cabin one to pilgrims, the first one when coming in.

I too played it smart and took my shower when the kids were having lunch.

 

[laineylainey]

No shop then in Vegacervera?

 

[laineylainey]

"Tomorrow the tricky part after Villar. Send me good juju please."

I wish you a great descent tomorrow. I can't wait to hear about it.

 

[VNwalking]

Send me good juju please.

Coming your way. May you be safe and happy! (I'm at an Abbey and able to have a lot of quiet time this week - so tomorrow you will be one of the folks on my 'radar screen.' )

Looking forward to hearing about it!

 

[grayland]

Stay brave, Lee.

 

[laineylainey]

For me it is always amazing, that like life, my Camino experience will sometimes make me pause and be aware of my own vulnerability.

 

[LTfit]

No shop then in Vegacervera?

Nope but I knew that and carried food.

 

[omicko]

June 27 Day 11, stage 12B
Cistierna - Boñar 30.7 km Wikiloc

This was the alternative stage although I'm not sure what the difference is with the A except that the B is 3 km longer.

I've decided to call this stage "entremontañas" because that's exactly what it was like. Yesterday I left the Montaña Leonesa and tomorrow I'll be rejoining them. So today was the "in between mountain" stage.

The Camino brings you through wooded areas and fields with the occasional climb but nothing taxing (a total of 477 meter elevation gain with1,274 meters being the highest point). Both routes go through La Ercina (13 km from Cistierna,) a town that was expected to have a bar. No such luck. The one and only has been closed due to jubilación. The owner retired and no one has taken it over. There is a se vende sign if anyone is interested. So you're forewarned, there are no services during this stage. I did see a fountain or two though, in fact one in a hamlet 5 km before Boñar. I was quite the attraction - "Where are you from?", "Aren't you afraid walking alone?" There were 3 vecinos by the fountain by now and when they heard that I was from Holanda a neighbor was called over to meet me, Flemish woman. She met her Spanish husband 50 years ago in Switzerland and are still together living in this village! She was quite nice and kept asking if I needed anything. I actually did want a coffee but didn't ask as I only had 5 km more to go.

Signage continues to be good now that I'm in León.

Here a few pictures in order of the day:
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Room in Hostal Nisi. Outdated but perfectly fine with a private bath for €20. Do call to reserve as they have no email address or WhatsApp and don't answer sms.

LT, BAR MUSEO / MESON EL MUSEO is still open. As it says in my Guide ' Under the railway bridge for 300 metres. Regards, Mick.

 

[peregrina2000]

No shop then in Vegacervera?

I just checked google maps and see that the embutidos store is still open — they had a fair number of grocery items as did the Carnicería, which is also listed as still open.

Embutidos el Montañés (which is where I think I bought the yummy sheep’s milk yoghurt from Coladilla)

Cárnicas Miserias

(pictures of both places on google maps).

I wouldn’t rely on them for full scale shopping, but the first place had some fresh stuff as well as cans (including some vegetable patés, etc), and of course lots of embutidos and cheese! Not a bad Plan B.

 

[LTfit]

LT, BAR MUSEO / MESON EL MUSEO is still open. As it says in my Guide ' Under the railway bridge for 300 metres. Regards, Mick.

Hi Mick,
If you talking about La Ercina, it was confirmed to be by three people in town that the bar has closed. The one I saw with a for dale sign was indeed under the bridge and up to the left. I left the Wikiloc track to look around as I couldn't believe that there was nothing open.

 

[LTfit]

Sometimes these daily quotes are spot on...it must be all this walking alone. One gets philosophical

"When we are willing to be intimate with what actually is here now, to look directly at all of our experience, we might recognize that this is our life, however different from our thoughts and ideas about it."
Roshi Pat Enkyo O'Hara

 

[LTfit]

Camino Olvidado
June 29, stage 14B
Vegacervera - Pola de Gordón vía Santa Lucía 18.65 km Wikiloc



It was a short but sweet day, cooler than the previous mornings. It started off with a long, gradual climb to Villar del Puerto along a very quiet road. Good to warm me up! It is within a short walk after this town that the "infamous" downhill starts.



This stretch of Camino down into the gorge and El Faedo is tricky going. It's steep and at times very narrow with jagged rocks which make the descent nerve racking. I held my walking poles in one hand and used my other to guide me along the rocks. Twice I even threw my poles down and slid on my bum. Whatever works, right? Doable in good weather but I can't imagine how @alansykes did it in the pouring rain ! Brave man you are!

Hard to see but there are three cows munching on grass on a perpendicular cliff!



Once you get down to the gorge you enter a fairytale passage with wooden planks leading you through an ancient beech forest. It looks really magical and I had it all to myself!



I have a ton of pictures but none capture the beauty and feeling of serenity you feel going through El Faedo. It's really a special place!

The Camino meanders around to Ciñera, the first town after the descent. I arrived at 8.45. All the bars were closed but a local told me that one would open at 9.00 and she was right! It was so early that I stayed for an hour chatting with the bar owner and had two café con leches and a homemade bizcocho. Since they didn't have a stamp for my pilgrim's credential she gave me a bag as a souvenir


The rest of the walk was uneventful. The track I followed took you through Santa Lucía and then a long stretch along a river. A short part followed a highway (even through a tunnel!) which was not pleasant due to lots of trucks passing by. There was no signage from Ciñera to Pola de Gordón so the Wikiloc track was essential. This track does not go through La Buiza as others apparently do. Maybe that's why I saw arrows in the plaza in Ciñera pointing in the opposite direction? Someone in the café said that they are for the Salvador but I never went through this town when I did the Salvador. Something to keep in mind if you want to stop in Buiza!

I arrived in Pola de Gordón at 11.00! During the last km or so you see arrows going in the opposite direction as the Camino San Salvador passes through here too. In fact I'm staying in the same pension and room as I did in 2021 when I walked the Salvador.

As it was so early for a brief moment I thought of walking the next stage to La Magdalena but I got sensible for a change and decided not to continue on as that would mean another 27 km on difficult terrain. So today ends up being a rest day.

 

[laineylainey]

Great photos, especially the cows with shorter legs on one side, in order to stand on a hill!!
Well done and enjoy the rest of your day! Where are you staying tonight?

 

[LTfit]

Great photos, especially the cows with shorter legs on one side, in order to stand on a hill!!
Well done and enjoy the rest of your day! Where are you staying tonight?

I'm staying in Pension 15 de Mayo for €22, individual room with bath.

Had lunch for a change in a restaurant El Meson de Miguel which also has rooms. I was charged a fortune for part of a menu (a whole one is too much)! Just joking, had primer plato, wine with gaseosa and dessert for €6!

 

[omicko]

Hi Mick,
If you talking about La Ercina, it was confirmed to be by three people in town that the bar has closed. The one I saw with a for dale sign was indeed under the bridge and up to the left. I left the Wikiloc track to look around as I couldn't believe that there was nothing open.

Well LT you seem to be taking it all in your stride and enjoying it.
When I wrote "Bar Museo / Meson El Museo Is open" I forgot to write that I had phoned the bar, before I had written it and he told me it is open.
Since then I have done some research online and on the phone. The opening times every day, except Monday when it is closed (I think you were there on a Tuesday), are:
12:30 till 17:00 then 17:00 till late. Nando's / Pub Nando's closed in May this year. I had coffee there 20018 and 2019 ( Horrible coffee ). In June 2022 it was closed when I was in Ercina, thank goodness, and by good luck I found the Bar Museo. There is what was the Bar la Estación with a for sale sign on It but that has been closed for ages. It's a Mystery but as we say in my part of England "It will all come out in the Sunday wash" Suerte Mick.

 

[LTfit]

Camino Olvidado June 30, stage 15B Pola de Gordón - La Magdalena 23,6 km Wikiloc

It was certainly cool this morning! It is the first time in 2 weeks that I put on a fleece although I'm still walking in capri length pants.

Soon after leaving Pola de Gordón the road started to meander back and forth uphill until we left the village of Barrios de Gordón to head up into the mountains.

The climb was long, 8 or 9 km, with a total elevation gain of 751 meters. The dirt path was wide and strewn with small rocks. It was one of those climbs where I turned on a switch and went!



Can you imagine? Irises along the path!

At the summit it was terribly cold and windy, so cold that my fingers could hardly hold on to my walking poles! Boy was I happy when the sun came out from behind the mountain warming up my back. Then the downhill with an elevation loss of 771 meters.



The downhill had two parts. The first followed a wide dirt path followed by a narrower one then boom! The scenery totally changed. Instead of pine trees there were suddenly huge rock and boulder formations on all sides. This is what they call the Ruta de Los Calderones - Route of the Caldrons. You are literally enclosed and need to manoeuver your feet over moving rocks. I used my hands and bum quite a few times to make my way through what seemed like a labyrinth! It was pretty incredible but I was also happy to reach open, more stable ground under my feet!



I climbed a bunch of stairs to this:



The last 4 or 5 km were easy going and I found an open bar at 11.00 for my first coffee of the day

Staying in the most amazing municipal albergue in La Magdalena run by Dulio and wife who also have a busy bar Las Cruces.

 

[LTfit]

Here's the albergue (€10, €4 for washing and drying).






The kitchen has a fridge, a microwave and plates/utensils. The combo washing machine and dryer can only be operated by Dulio or wife per ayuntamiento's request. They come over in the afternoon to do it if asked. After 3 weeks of hand washing I jumped at the offer!

 

[laineylainey]

Well LT you seem to be taking it all in your stride and enjoying it.
When I wrote "Bar Museo / Meson El Museo Is open" I forgot to write that I had phoned the bar, before I had written it and he told me it is open.
Since then I have done some research online and on the phone. The opening times every day, except Monday when it is closed (I think you were there on a Tuesday), are:
12:30 till 17:00 then 17:00 till late. Nando's / Pub Nando's closed in May this year. I had coffee there 20018 and 2019 ( Horrible coffee ). In June 2022 it was closed when I was in Ercina, thank goodness, and by good luck I found the Bar Museo. There is what was the Bar la Estación with a for sale sign on It but that has been closed for ages. It's a Mystery but as we say in my part of England "It will all come out in the Sunday wash" Suerte Mick.

Does the Bar Museo, which may or may not be open, serve food of any kind?

 

[laineylainey]

Camino Olvidado June 30, stage 15B Pola de Gordón - La Magdalena 23,6 km Wikiloc

It was certainly cool this morning! It is the first time in 2 weeks that I put on a fleece although I'm still walking in capri length pants.

Soon after leaving Pola de Gordón the road started to meander back and forth uphill until we left the village of Barrios de Gordón to head up into the mountains.
View attachment 150864
The climb was long, 8 or 9 km, with a total elevation gain of 751 meters. The dirt path was wide and strewn with small rocks. It was one of those climbs where I turned on a switch and went!
View attachment 150865
View attachment 150866
View attachment 150867
Can you imagine? Irises along the path!

At the summit it was terribly cold and windy, so cold that my fingers could hardly hold on to my walking poles! Boy was I happy when the sun came out from behind the mountain warming up my back. Then the downhill with an elevation loss of 771 meters.
View attachment 150868
View attachment 150869

The downhill had two parts. The first followed a wide dirt path followed by a narrower one then boom! The scenery totally changed. Instead of pine trees there were suddenly huge rock and boulder formations on all sides. This is what they call the Ruta de Los Calderones - Route of the Caldrons. You are literally enclosed and need to manoeuver your feet over moving rocks. I used my hands and bum quite a few times to make my way through what seemed like a labyrinth! It was pretty incredible but I was also happy to reach open, more stable ground under my feet!
View attachment 150870

View attachment 150871
I climbed a bunch of stairs to this:
View attachment 150872
View attachment 150873

The last 4 or 5 km were easy going and I found an open bar at 11.00 for my first coffee of the day

Staying in the most amazing municipal albergue in La Magdalena run by Dulio and wife who also have a busy bar Las Cruces.

Sounds like a very interesting day! It is just wonderful to have an actual experience of a walk shared to get a real idea of what it is like and your photos are wonderful, thank you again.

 

[laineylainey]

@LTfit , thank you, as your journey on the Olvidado continues, I now can not wait to have a go in September. Also thank you for answering my need to know questions, example "is there a shop?" I had read somewhere that the Bar Cruce will deliver breakfast? Or maybe there is a shop? (here I go again!!)

 

[LTfit]

@LTfit , thank you, as your journey on the Olvidado continues, I now can not wait to have a go in September. Also thank you for answering my need to know questions, example "is there a shop?" I had read somewhere that the Bar Cruce will deliver breakfast? Or maybe there is a shop? (here I go again!!)

I don't know about delivering breakfast but there is a shop. Unfortunately I cannot give any details as I didn't go. There is a churrería near the entrance of town that opens early but you would need to go backwards. Since I have some packets of Nescafe I'll just have that tomorrow morning.

 

[LTfit]

Well LT you seem to be taking it all in your stride and enjoying it.
When I wrote "Bar Museo / Meson El Museo Is open" I forgot to write that I had phoned the bar, before I had written it and he told me it is open.
Since then I have done some research online and on the phone. The opening times every day, except Monday when it is closed (I think you were there on a Tuesday), are:
12:30 till 17:00 then 17:00 till late. Nando's / Pub Nando's closed in May this year. I had coffee there 20018 and 2019 ( Horrible coffee ). In June 2022 it was closed when I was in Ercina, thank goodness, and by good luck I found the Bar Museo. There is what was the Bar la Estación with a for sale sign on It but that has been closed for ages. It's a Mystery but as we say in my part of England "It will all come out in the Sunday wash" Suerte Mick.

The general problem is that there may be a bar but it might only be open late, hence the problem. I passed through La Ercina around 10.00 if I recall correctly thus no café.

 

[LTfit]

Just a tidbit of info regarding the number of pilgrims staying here this year:
March 1
April 5
May 7
June 12

 

[peregrina2000]

Just a tidbit of info regarding the number of pilgrims staying here this year:
March 1
April 5
May 7
June 12

I am really pretty surprised, I was expecting to see more. This is really one of those 5 star albergues!

Now you have to bite the bullet and choose whether you want to stay with Laura (formerly of Mansilla) in her place near Riello, go to Vegarienza and meet lovely Estela who runs the place in Vegarienza, or go to Fasgar where I think Rosi is once again running the albergue. An embarrassment. of riches for you! Feast or famine when it comes to albergues on the Olvidado it seems.

If you stay in Vegarienza, please give Estela a hug from me. She is a wonderful woman trying mightily to keep her town from dying. They got an APOC grant to put in some bathroom improvements, so I would love to hear how it went. She is really trying hard. And Rosi, what a force of nature! Tireless and dedicated.

 

[VNwalking]

Whatever works, right?

You betcha! And it clearly did.

was one of those climbs where I turned on a switch and went!

I want one of these switches for my next Camino. Where can I buy one please?

Can you imagine? Irises along the path!

Gorgeous.

I used my hands and bum quite a few times to make my way through what seemed like a labyrinth! I

This sounds almost worse than the steep descent. Any sense of the comparison?

Now you have to bite the bullet and choose whether you want to stay with Laura (formerly of Mansilla) in her place near Riello, go to Vegarienza and meet lovely Estela who runs the place in Vegarienza, or go to Fasgar where I think Rosi is once again running the albergue. An embarrassment. of riches for you! Feast or famine when it comes to albergues on the Olvidado it seems.

Oh. Very hard choice.
Buen Camino in the making of it!

 

[chinacat]

I want one of these switches for my next Camino. Where can I buy one please?

Have you tried Ivar?

 

[LTfit]

I am really pretty surprised, I was expecting to see more. This is really one of those 5 star albergues!

Estela (yes, I'm in Vegarienza!) says that must not be right because I counted the amount of people who wrote comments and of course not everyone does

Now you have to bite the bullet and choose whether you want to stay with Laura (formerly of Mansilla) in her place near Riello, go to Vegarienza and meet lovely Estela who runs the place in Vegarienza, or go to Fasgar where I think Rosi is once again running the albergue. An embarrassment. of riches for you! Feast or famine when it comes to albergues on the Olvidado it seems.

Going all the way to Igüeña tomorrow as my original plan. Dulio first thought I should go all the way to Fasgar today but that would have been 45 km. The reason is because there is a difficult downhill from Fasgar to Igüeña. He actually called Cuñarro to discuss my plans (mother out of the hospital and is now in Galicia with grandkids). Jose Antonio thought that I should be fine doing the 36 km Vegarienza - Igüeña tomorrow. Hope so!

If you stay in Vegarienza, please give Estela a hug from me. She is a wonderful woman trying mightily to keep her town from dying. They got an APOC grant to put in some bathroom improvements, so I would love to hear how it went.

The albergue is now in a very old house a short walk down from the Mesón. Estela says that it was a 17thc monastery. It could use here and there some improvements but has everything one needs. I made tons of pictures for you and will upload when I have wifi again.

I took a selfie of us with her phone and sent it by WhatsApp to you. You receive it?

 

[LTfit]

This sounds almost worse than the steep descent. Any sense of the comparison?

It was quite different as it wasn't the steepness but rather the ever moving bolders under your feet. If you look at my track and that of Ender we were all over the place.
There is no path, you just need to find your own way. The blue dot was when I had climbed the stairs to see the the Virgin.

 

[LTfit]

July 1st, day 15, stage 16 + part 17 La Magdalena - Riello - Vegarienza 28.06 km

The day started off with a long climb in a forest along a dirt path. The scenery begins to change during the day. We are no longer in the high mountains of the previous days.

My first and only stop was in Riello after 17 km with an open bar (yeah!) and a small shop. It didn't have much but I could pick up some fruit and nuts which came in handy as my destination today has only a bar/mesón and no other services.

As I mentioned above, I'm staying in La Casa de Acogida run by Estela.

Nothing else to add. Less eventful than the last few days which is fine.


During this part I saw hundreds of sheep footprints and thought to myself, this looks like the Transhumancia and what do I see later on?

La Ruta de Transhumancia!







The little store at the entrance of Riello. Stock up!

My first coffee after 17 km

 

[LTfit]

The Casa de Acogida in Vegarienza (for Laurie)

 

[peregrina2000]

Jose Antonio thought that I should be fine doing the 36 km Vegarienza - Igüeña tomorrow. Hope so!

I did that stage on my last Olvidado, and that was with a two hour visit with Rosi in Fasgar, so given that you are a stronger walker than I am, I am totally sure you will be FINE!!!!!! If I had had more time, I would have stayed in Fasgar and then walked to Quintana de Fuseros (which is what I did the first time), because Fasgar is a pertty idyllic spot!

The descent is to Colinas de Campo de Marín Moro Toledano (town with the longest name in all of Spain), and it is not going to strike you as particularly challenging, I bet. The first part down to the campo de Santiago is actually drive-able, and though the second part isn’t, that’s because of its width, not its steepness. If it’s wet, it may be a bit slippery, but that’s about it.

Since it’ll be Sunday, I bet the bar in Colinas de Campo will be open. Good tapas, nice people. And in Igüeña, they will feed you whenever you want in the bar across from the albergue, so you have no time pressure.

Buen camino, LT! I am sorry these Olvidado posts will end, but we have the Invierno to look forward to!

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino, LT! I am sorry these Olvidado posts will end, but we have the Invierno to look forward to!

Amen!

Less eventful than the last few days which is fine.

Yeah, I bet after the rolling rocks and walking down cliffs.

 

[peregrina2000]

as my destination today has only a bar/mesón and no other services.

Since you are talking about Vegarienza, I’m wondering if the Restaurante Casa Maxi has closed. I think it must be the bar/mesón you refer to, because I think it was the only place in town. Run by older women, I had thought they were going to close, hence my uncertainty. Please say it is still open, because the food was quite good, and the ambiente unbeatable. You had to walk through the kitchen to get to the dining room, and I will admit i was a bit taken aback by what I saw, but on reflection I decided my kitchen frequently looked like that and I had survived many meals made there.

 

[LTfit]

D

Since you are talking about Vegarienza, I’m wondering if the Restaurante Casa Maxi has closed. I think it must be the bar/mesón you refer to, because I think it was the only place in town. Run by older women, I had thought they were going to close, hence my uncertainty. Please say it is still open, because the food was quite good, and the ambiente unbeatable. You had to walk through the kitchen to get to the dining room, and I will admit i was a bit taken aback by what I saw, but on reflection I decided my kitchen frequently looked like that and I had survived many meals made there.

View attachment 151061View attachment 151062

Don't worry, it is still open but I had bad luck. I stopped there for a clara when I arrived at about 12.30 and she said she serves lunch till 15.00. I met Estela, chatted then showered and walked over at 14.30. There were a ton of people walking in straight to the restaurant part (it was Saturday, did they have reservations?). She told me to wait. Well 45 minutes later , it was 15.15 by now, I was still waiting and she didn't know when a table would be free. I was quite hungry by then so went back to the albergue and had some nuts and fruit. Probably better since I had a look at the kitchen haha and she wasn't sure what to feed me. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get something to eat!

 

[LTfit]

July 2, day 16, rest stage 17+18 Vegarienza - Fasgar - Igüeña 36.55 km Wikiloc


Early this morning.

Since Vegarienza - Fasgar would be a short, fairly easy 17 km stage (I was already there at 9.45) I added another 17+ km to Igüeña (this was actually the plan all along).The second half was a whole other story! It started off with a climb of 440 meters (on top of the 350 meters already done) then a huge, long, tedious downhill of over 800 meters!

The downhill started off innocently enough - a wide dirt path, no problem! It then turned into a narrow, rocky (yes, loose boulders and rocks) path where you had to watch every step. This went on for about 1 1/2 hours. It wasn't steep or dangerous just way to long! My right knee began to protest but I had to get down the mountain. Eventually it became more manageable but the downhill continued all the way to Igüeña. It was hard to appreciate the scenery when you are constantly looking at your feet.




Campo de Santiago




The Spanish town with one of the longest names: Colinas del Campo by Martín Moro Toledano

Laurie, the bar was open as you said it might be because it's Sunday

It has not been my best day (my right knee is mad at me) but...I finally met the Basque couple who are also walking the Olvidado (today their last day). We have had contact via a Spanish Camino Olvidado Facebook group but they have not been walking the B (mountain) stages so we had not yet met up. It was nice having company for a change and we enjoyed a nice lunch in a restaurant by the river. Igüeña is a lovely little town and the restaurant owner runs the impeccable albergue here in Igüeña. He even said that he would open up at 6.30 tomorrow morning so I can have breakfast before I head out. As usual I have the place to myself (the couple has a private room).

Time now to rest my knee.

 

[islandwalker]

What wonderful (and challenging) days you are having! I sure hope the knee recovers...

 

[VNwalking]

Wait...what? 35km+ (with rolling rocks) rest stage?

So, Lee...may I let you in on a little secret? A rest stage is when you get up late, dawdle over breakfast, and amble until 2PM, in time for a menu dep dia then a siesta.

my right knee is mad at me

Uh-oh.
Be very nice to it! I hope in the morning it's come right. And it's wonderful that you'll get breakfast!

 

[peregrina2000]

Wait...what? 35km+ (with rolling rocks) rest stage?

I think you are mis-reading what she wrote. “rest stage 17+18 Vegarienza - Fasgar - Igüeña” means — Rest of stage 17 (Stage 17 ends in Fasgar) and Stage 18 (Stage 18 is Fasgar to Igüeña).

LT is not familiar with the use of that word to denote “to cease from action or motion : refrain from labor or exertion.”

 

[LTfit]

I think you are mis-reading what she wrote. “rest stage 17+18 Vegarienza - Fasgar - Igüeña” means — Rest of stage 17 (Stage 17 ends in Fasgar) and Stage 18 (Stage 18 is Fasgar to Igüeña).

LT is not familiar with the use of that word to denote “to cease from action or motion : refrain from labor or exertion.”

Thank you Laurie for explaining, as always you have come to the rescue.

It was a short night with me tossing and turning. I never sleep well on Caminos, even when having the place to myself or a private room as I have had during the Olvidado, but last night in addition I was ruminating 'what if I can't walk any further?' etc.

The knee still feels quite stiff. Strange, I didn't twist it or make a strange movement during the downhill. I guess it is just due to the accumulative load. Please send positive thought my way (last time it worked)

It's of course not the end of the world if I need to stop in Ponferrada but I'm hoping I may continue onto the Invierno and spend my birthday in Santiago.

 

[LTfit]

But...thinking positive, @peregrina2000 and/or @alansykes I'd like to visit Santo Tomás de las Ollas. You both have Wikiloc tracks into Ponfe. Do they go by the church?

 

[VNwalking]

You're probably on your way. I'm not either of them but this was on the planning thread.

Alan’s suggestion involves staying on the Olvidado past the dam on the Bárcena Reservoir, then leaving the Olvidado and heading for Santo Tomás and then Ponferrada. On google maps, it looks like he went on Calle Dinamarca rather than cross over the dam, then Calle Biobra, and then into Santo Tomás de las Ollas. That is what I tried to do in 2019 but got lost

So maybe his track is the one to use, rather than Lauie's.

 

[laineylainey]

anyone have knowledge of the 2 albergues in Fasgar at all? I am hoping to stay there and next day to Iguena, Having read about the descent and having a knee that complains easily on descents, I think my plan is a good one!

 

[LTfit]

anyone have knowledge of the 2 albergues in Fasgar at all? I am hoping to stay there and next day to Iguena, Having read about the descent and having a knee that complains easily on descents, I think my plan is a good one!

Rosi runs the albergue in Fasgar. The couple from Bilbao I met yesterday stayed there.

 

[peregrina2000]

The knee still feels quite stiff. Strange, I didn't twist it or make a strange movement during the downhill. I guess it is just due to the accumulative load. Please send positive thought my way (last time it worked)

Sending many positive thoughts. I hope stretching and lots of TLC will do the trick. Time for your fisio magic. Yes, a birthday in Santiago would be the icing on the cake. Really hoping for good news, amiga.

But...thinking positive, @peregrina2000 and/or @alansykes I'd like to visit Santo Tomás de las Ollas. You both have Wikiloc tracks into Ponfe. Do they go by the church?

VN is right, I have never made it to that church. I am having trouble finding Alan’s tracks, but I remember that AJ made a wikiloc track during our planning thread. He based it on Alan’s directions. This one shows quite clearly that it goes to Santo Tomás.

Congosto to Ponferrada

Congosto to Ponferrada Hiking trail in Congosto, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the route on a map. Record your own itinerary from the Wikiloc app, upload the trail and share it with the community.

www.wikiloc.com

Can you post a liink to Alan’s tracks?

 

[WestKirsty]

Oh, I'm sorry to hear about your knee! Hoping an easier walk today (at least I think it's supposed to be easier!) helps loosen things up and you can walk pain free to Santiago!

 

[LTfit]

Sending many positive thoughts. I hope stretching and lots of TLC will do the trick. Time for your fisio magic. Yes, a birthday in Santiago would be the icing on the cake. Really hoping for good news, amiga.


VN is right, I have never made it to that church. I am having trouble finding Alan’s tracks, but I remember that AJ made a wikiloc track during our planning thread. He based it on Alan’s directions. This one shows quite clearly that it goes to Santo Tomás.

Congosto to Ponferrada

Congosto to Ponferrada Hiking trail in Congosto, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the route on a map. Record your own itinerary from the Wikiloc app, upload the trail and share it with the community.

www.wikiloc.com

Can you post a liink to Alan’s tracks?

I had found Alan's tracks by chance and now I can't find it so I guess I'll go with AJ's. It looks like Santo Tomás de los Ollos is quite close to Ponferrada. I'll let you know!

 

[LTfit]

So here's my next to last entry on this thread.
June 3, day 17, stages 18+19
Igüeña - Labaniego - Congosto 34,29 Wikiloc (without deviation to Virgen de la Peña)

The owner of Restaurante La Playa across the albergue was so nice to open up to serve me breakfast. The Basque couple were sleeping in as they were going to catch a bus to León to pick up their car.

Today was just what the doctor ordered. The knee stiffness was still there but less and once I got moving improved. Blanki also gave me a painkiller just in case. I wasn't familiar with the name but looked it up and it's for joint pain and arthritis so I thought, heck, just take it.





The first part of the first stage was just so lovely along rolling hills and fields on sandy paths.



Murals entering Quintana de Fuseros


We are in the Bierzo region and felt as if on another planet! The towns were well kept, people I passed by friendly and said Buen Camino. A woman outside her home leaving San Justo de las Cabanillas even gave me a cup of coffee and cake.


Leaving Rodanillo (see the rainbow curb?) three woman stopped me to chat and when my phone beeped that the battery was low they offered to charge my phone (not needed as I have a power bank). All this in one day! Nothing like this had happened in the previous 16 days!

Otherwise ups and downs through Forrest's and fields. I had an encounter with three Mastiffs but in the end they were not interested in me.

A view up top to the reservoir.

The albergue (donation based) is in the old football changing room but very well done up. There are three room with 2 bunk beds each, showers, WC, tiny fridge, microwave, coffee machine and makings for breakfast. It's quite warm in here but there is even airco!

Since the bars in town are closed today the hospitalera (comes in the evening to stamp your credential) WhatsApp'd me to ask what food and drink she could buy for me! She sent me pictures of food from the Mercadona in Ponferrada. When I arrived the fridge was filled with my salad, a beer and gaseosa!




And I had a nice surprise when I arrived. There is another peregrina! A Spanish woman from Barcelona who also started in Bilbao. She has also done a ton of different Caminos. We won't meet again as tomorrow she's off to Villafranca to pick up her Olvidada then home.

Tomorrow Ponfe. I'll vist friends I haven't seen since July 2020 when they came to Villares de Orbigo for my birthday.

 

[peregrina2000]

So glad the knee is behaving. And tomorrow, with so little in elevation, you will be just fine. Have you seen Alan’s post about getting into the church? There are many reasons to repeat the Olvidado, and this would be one of mine!

I was sitting sadly outside thinking I would never see the interior when Manuela, a relatively elderly lady living in one of the houses on the square in front of the church came out with the key and let me in and gave me a lot of information about this fascinating site, including that it's just possible that it's of Visigothic origin. If Manuela isn't about, she told me that the local bar will let people know where she is, or find a key somewhere else (they're clearly justly proud if this hidden gem in the area). And then only a km or so into the centre of Ponferrada. "Vaut le detour", as the Michelin guides used to say.

 

[LTfit]

So glad the knee is behaving. And tomorrow, with so little in elevation, you will be just fine. Have you seen Alan’s post about getting into the church? There are many reasons to repeat the Olvidado, and this would be one of mine!

I was sitting sadly outside thinking I would never see the interior when Manuela, a relatively elderly lady living in one of the houses on the square in front of the church came out with the key and let me in and gave me a lot of information about this fascinating site, including that it's just possible that it's of Visigothic origin. If Manuela isn't about, she told me that the local bar will let people know where she is, or find a key somewhere else (they're clearly justly proud if this hidden gem in the area). And then only a km or so into the centre of Ponferrada. "Vaut le detour", as the Michelin guides used to say.

Yes, I have read this. Fingers crossed that the track takes me there and that I may actually get in to see it!

 

[VNwalking]

May it be so!
And may your knee be very happy.
I look forward to seeing the pictures.

 

[LTfit]

I'm in Ponferrada having my first coffee and...I visited Santo Tomás de los Ollos!!!!

I went off AJ's track a few times (I think I improved it ) but it did get me to the very special church. I arrived at 9:00 and thought to myself, I can't wake the poor woman to open the church when one of the persianas of her house opened up to talk to me. And yes, she would be pleased to show me the treasure!

The sign (see picture) says it dates back to the 10th century but that's incorrect, it's actually the 9th. As the woman said, the person who made the sign had "la cabeza en los pies" (his head in his feet).

She told me so much about the history and I promptly forgot the half! There are frescos from the 17th c and a tiny portion from the 9th. Apparently the double archway t the original Mozárabe section is unique, no where else to be seen.

Restorations should be starting soon, money from the village and Obispo. Maybe new frescos will be found. Don't worry, the church will remain open during the restoration process.







Also from the 9th century. They moved it up two steps as it was originally underground.

The church is used for baptism, weddings and for Sunday service.


Not my favorite part. From the 17th c.


I'll write about the track and walk later. Off to call friends and do some shopping.

 

[LTfit]

Today is an actual rest day, something I never do but sometimes I'm sensible. I had lunch with a Dutch friend who lives in Campo, outside of Ponferrada and this morning I'm meeting American friends for breakfast who live here then I'll catch a bus to A Rúa. Yesterday I bought new trail runners so hope my feet do well in them. The others were shot, tread gone in spots and generally feeling like slippers. I now have Merrill Agility Peak 4, a new shoe for me.

Now something about the walk from Congosto yesterday. AJ's track follows the Olvidado on asphalt till the steep descent to the dam. I went a bit too far (didn't hear a beep) but walked only a bit back up to catch a dirt path on the right through the woods. This short path was not part of the track but got me back to it and was a nice change.

At one point you continue on a road that meanders down when you need to take a left behind an abandoned house. If it weren't for Wikiloc you wouldn't see the old road, now abandoned, but with here and there still the old guardrails. This road continues down when you then turn up onto a dirt path which ascends quite a bit. When I got to the top Wikiloc beeped that I was off track. At this point I saw a sign for la Senda de Bas which would take me back to the track (who knows where I went off). It was a lovely dirt path through the woods, definitely a nice addition to the walk. The rest of the way to the Iglesia was straight forward.

About 5 minutes after leaving the church the track leads you downhill then tells you to take a right where there was no path or road (I checked twice). I looked at the map and saw how I could continue past the athletic track then cross the highway into a lovely park that takes you straight into the center of town and the ayuntamiento. This was not how AJ's track leads you into Ponferrada but I lived in Ponferrada for 6 weeks before I moved to Villares de Orbigo so knew where I was. My version is direct. I'll post my track here in case it helps someone else. Oh, I can't seem to find a link to share. Can send to a device and email but where/how to copy a link? Here is the screenshot

And here a few pictures of the walk.

 

[LTfit]

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/congosto-iglesia-santo-tomas-de-los-ollos-ponferrada-139633476

Found it!

 

[chinacat]

Thank you, LT, for the chance to follow you on this lovely camino.
I’ll never be able to walk it myself but your words and your photographs brought it alive for us, those who want to walk it, those who can’t follow you and perhaps dream of doing so …

Buen (Invierno) Camino!

 

[laineylainey]

Yes, thank you again for the wonderful and honest posts. So informative and just what I needed to know about this route, which I hope to do myself in September, Your detail of the route together with your photos, made it feel like I was really following your adventure and sometimes your pain!
I look forward to hearing about your Invierno adventure to bring back my own great memories of my walk there last year.
Buen camino peregrina

 

[LTfit]

@WestKirsty how are you doing? The uphill looking over Campo de Santiago and then the long (for me) downhill to Igüeña? Be safe!

 

[LTfit]

Yes, thank you again for the wonderful and honest posts. So informative and just what I needed to know about this route, which I hope to do myself in September, Your detail of the route together with your photos, made it feel like I was really following your adventure and sometimes your pain!
I look forward to hearing about your Invierno adventure to bring back my own great memories of my walk there last year.
Buen camino peregrina

Any tips for me from A Rúa on?

 

[WestKirsty]

@WestKirsty how are you doing? The uphill looking over Campo de Santiago and then the long (for me) downhill to Igüeña? Be safe!

Hi! I'm in Igüeña and am connected to the world again! I stayed in Fasgar last night but no coverage with Vodafone and the town's wifi wasn't working. How strange to be disconnected these days

Today was a nice walk and yes, the downhill goes on a long way. But what gorgeous scenery. I'm quite sad to be out of the mountains.

Just 2 days to Villafranca then home

All the best on the Invierno! It's a special one. I walked it over Christmas and really loved it.

Buen Camino!

 

[LTfit]

Hi! I'm in Igüeña and am connected to the world again! I stayed in Fasgar last night but no coverage with Vodafone and the town's wifi wasn't working. How strange to be disconnected these days

Today was a nice walk and yes, the downhill goes on a long way. But what gorgeous scenery. I'm quite sad to be out of the mountains.

Just 2 days to Villafranca then home

All the best on the Invierno! It's a special one. I walked it over Christmas and really loved it.

Buen Camino!

Enjoy your last two days. I guess you'll be picking up an Olvidada in Villafranca.

 

[WestKirsty]

Enjoy your last two days. I guess you'll be picking up an Olvidada in Villafranca.

I'll go to the tourist office and see about it. As I walked it from Pamplona, I'm not sure if I can get one

 

[laineylainey]

Sorry for such kate question @LTfit , but on your walk day from Igüeña - Labaniego - Congosto, do you remember seeing anything in Labaniego that looked like possible accommodation? Or would anyone else know?

 

[laineylainey]

Any tips for me from A Rúa on?

sorry only saw this now! In A Rúa, there is the highly recommended Hostal O Pillabán. I remember the restaurant being highly recommended, but last year it was closed when I was there. Would love to hear if it is open now.In Quiroga again a recommended place to eat is Casa Aroza. I am a peregrina who loves her food!
My route mirrors your own. Good accommodation choices throughout.

 

[peregrina2000]

do you remember seeing anything in Labaniego that looked like possible accommodation? Or would anyone else know?

Ender’s Spanish language guide is more up to date than the English one. It lists a new possibility in Labaniego.

ECO-DOMO - CASA RURAL LA NOGALA

Ecodomo en Labaniego. Vive una experiencia rural en el S.XXI. Alojamiento especial para 1-2 pax, en el Camino Olvidado en contacto directo con la naturaleza.

www.labaniego.es

And an acogida municipal, which is listed in the English version.

But there is now an albergue in Noceda, where @Sitkapilgrim stayed. I believe it’s a few kms before Labaniego.

I think a new version of the guide will be forthcoming this year, but too late for you no doubt.

 

[laineylainey]

thanks @peregrina2000 . Yes, I had read about the ecodome in Labaniego, but have not been able to get to speak to anyone about it. But today a different option but I think run by the same person (Javier). I contacted him about his Casa rural in Labaniego knowing what the answer would probably be when asking for just one night's accomodation, " no, el minimo son 2 noches". When I replied that I was walking the Olvidado in September he came back with the offer of a eco-caravan in the same area which he rents out to peregrinos for one night, https://photos.app.goo.gl/wfWxqCgiGuKmPEYbA
I am glad to have this as an option to break up the journey between Igüeña and Congosto if I want to,

 

[WestKirsty]

thanks @peregrina2000 . Yes, I had read about the ecodome in Labaniego, but have not been able to get to speak to anyone about it. But today a different option but I think run by the same person (Javier). I contacted him about his Casa rural in Labaniego knowing what the answer would probably be when asking for just one night's accomodation, " no, el minimo son 2 noches". When I replied that I was walking the Olvidado in September he came back with the offer of a eco-caravan in the same area which he rents out to peregrinos for one night, https://photos.app.goo.gl/wfWxqCgiGuKmPEYbA
I am glad to have this as an option to break up the journey between Igüeña and Congosto if I want to,

I took this photo of the accommodation listings and phone numbers in one of the albergues. I'm guessing the one listed in Labaniego is whom you've already been in contact with, but just in case.

Every albergue I've been in has had cards and advertisements for those eco-domes. Look neat!

 

[laineylainey]

Yes @WestKirsty , that's the same number I used to contact Javier in Labaniego, however I think I am being offered an eco-caravan not the eco dome, but I am hoping to be able to see at least the eco dome and see what it is all about. As I said before it is just good to have an option of splitting the day to Congosto.

 

[LTfit]

Sorry for such kate question @LTfit , but on your walk day from Igüeña - Labaniego - Congosto, do you remember seeing anything in Labaniego that looked like possible accommodation? Or would anyone else know?

I didn't see anything. It was a small hamlet but I now see that others have chipped in.

 

[LTfit]

sorry only saw this now! In A Rúa, there is the highly recommended Hostal O Pillabán. I remember the restaurant being highly recommended, but last year it was closed when I was there. Would love to hear if it is open now.In Quiroga again a recommended place to eat is Casa Aroza. I am a peregrina who loves her food!
My route mirrors your own. Good accommodation choices throughout.

I stayed in Pensión Fabio in A Rúa and now in Quiroga in Hostal Quiper but I'll write those up in the new thread over on the Invierno forum.

 

[mla1]

Sorry for such kate question @LTfit , but on your walk day from Igüeña - Labaniego - Congosto, do you remember seeing anything in Labaniego that looked like possible accommodation? Or would anyone else know?

I did not see anything as I walked through. But there is apparently something there. When I was walking this past May I saw that some people signing the guest book in Congosto listed Lebaniego as their previous night. Dulio (la Magdalena) or Rosie (Fasgar) could help you figure out whom you need to phone. I used Igueña to Noceda as a kind of rest day. At the time I wondered if I should have continued on, but in the morning I was glad not to have done Noceda to Lebaniego in the heat of the afternoon. The path was overgrown and steep and full of flies! ( lThough there were also very cool rogue peonies growing in the woods!)

The arrows go through Noceda and several people encouraged me to stay there when I asked about Lebaniego, including the hospitalero in Igueña. So I basically did what I was told!

If there is any way to stay in La Quintana - I would do it. It was the friendliest village on a Camino of friendly villages!

 

[mla1]

@LTfit Somehow I missed seeing a huge chunk of this thread! So great to follow you here!

If someone is interested in a more direct route to St Tomás de Ollas: the Camino goes south from Congosto and eventually turns right on a carretera towards the embalse. A short while after turning on to the carretera, you walk through a compound of buildings for the hydrological service. I don’t have Wikiloc tracks but you can see the route easily on Mapy.cz. I have mark d up a screenshot below. At the end of the road in the compound you turn left onto the beautiful Senda de Bas and go through the woods. You follow the path until a very obvious sharp V where it crosses a prominent track. You turn south onto that track and then follow it up a small hill out of the woods and into the open. Taking the next track, which you will see very soon, off to the left will take you to a road that will take you over the autoroute and straight to the church! When I walked into the square beside the church, the woman who holds the key was sitting on a bench and said immediately, Would you like to see inside? This route from Congosto to the centre of Ponferrada is only 13 km.

 

[LTfit]

@LTfit Somehow I missed seeing a huge chunk of this thread! So great to follow you here!

If someone is interested in a more direct route to St Tomás de Ollas: the Camino goes south from Congosto and eventually turns right on a carretera towards the embalse. A short while after turning on to the carretera, you walk through a compound of buildings for the hydrological service. I don’t have Wikiloc tracks but you can see the route easily on Mapy.cz. I have mark d up a screenshot below. At the end of the road in the compound you turn left onto the beautiful Senda de Bas and go through the woods. You follow the path until a very obvious sharp V where it crosses a prominent track. You turn south onto that track and then follow it up a small hill out of the woods and into the open. Taking the next track, which you will see very soon, off to the left will take you to a road that will take you over the autoroute and straight to the church! When I walked into the square beside the church, the woman who holds the key was sitting on a bench and said immediately, Would you like to see inside? This route from Congosto to the centre of Ponferrada is only 13 km.

View attachment 152045

I posted my Wikiloc track to Santo Tomás de las Ollas above which does follow a part of the Senda de Bas. I started off using AJ's track which Laurie suggested then imho improved it slightly. It was a bit less than 17 km from Congosto to Ponferrada.

Regarding Noceda, I got a heads-up from members of the Camino Olvidado Facebook group that arrows have erroneously been painted to lead you through Noceda but the Camino does not go there (I passed by the albergue on my right). If you follow Cuñarro's (Wikiloc enderjace) track for that day you bypass Noceda. I had no problem and in fact didn't see the arrows they were talking about.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

So you're forewarned, there are no services during this stage.

There is a bar in La Devesa de Boñar since a week ago! The lady here says she is in charge during the summer, then the señor who usually runs it will come back for the rest of the year. So hopefully a bar here all year round..! Opened at noon so I arrived just in time.

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm hijacking my own thread for a moment. @peregrina2000 look what Facebook just "reminded" me:
View attachment 150033
Already 8 years ago visiting San Juan de la Peña during our Camí Sant Jaume . That's how long I haven't seen you in person (zoom is not the same thing).

Ok back to serious business!

ps if you want me to remove the picture let me know

Why am I just seeing this now? I was hunting for something on your Olvidado thread and just saw this! Wow,has it really been 8 years???????

 

[mla1]

Regarding Noceda, I got a heads-up from members of the Camino Olvidado Facebook group that arrows have erroneously been painted to lead you through Noceda but the Camino does not go there (I passed by the albergue on my right). If you follow Cuñarro's (Wikiloc enderjace) track for that day you bypass Noceda. I had no problem and in fact didn't see the arrows they were talking about.

The local politics are so interesting! It was the hospitalero from Igueña who told me that the camino had been changed to go through Noceda and that I should not bother trying to find accommodation in Lebaniego!

Noceda is clearly a bigger village with some services -- BUT -- the services are very spread out over a few kilometers. There is bar a short walk from the albergue but it was closed the day I was there (for a festival), and I was not prepared to walk another half hour to see if something else was open. That bar is also where the sello lives, and so even though one of the volunteer hospitaleros came to see me at the albergue, he could not stamp my credencial!

Albergue is very nice though!

 

[peregrina2000]

It was the hospitalero from Igueña who told me that the camino had been changed to go through Noceda and that I should not bother trying to find accommodation in Lebaniego!

This is what I have heard also through the Olvidado grapevine, but as you say local politics are always changing. Local elections were just held in May, so if there was a change in political party at the mayoral level, it could have consequences for the camino.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Regarding Noceda, I got a heads-up from members of the Camino Olvidado Facebook group that arrows have erroneously been painted to lead you through Noceda but the Camino does not go there (I passed by the albergue on my right). If you follow Cuñarro's (Wikiloc enderjace) track for that day you bypass Noceda. I had no problem and in fact didn't see the arrows they were talking about.

This was also my experience, walking past Noceda early today.