LIVE from the Camino On my way tomorrow!

[LTfit]

Hola,
Arrived in Bilbao this afternoon and walked around for three hours. I've been to Bilbao numerous times so I didn't feel the need to visit tourist sights. It's 33c which surprised me. Last year when here it was definitely much cooler!

I'm staying at Bilbao Metropolitan Hostel which is close to the Camino. I was here last year. At about €20 it is a very clean (starched sheets!), has a kitchen with free coffee and tea and next door there is a Carrefour supermarkt.

I've already seen a few pilgrims sign in although I assume that they're here to start the Norte or are in the process. I don't expect to see anyone on the Olvidado but one never knows.


I've got my credencial and first stamp from the Cathedral so I'm all set to start tomorrow!

 

[SabsP]

Enjoy!

Looking forward to reports. Hope you will find enough open albergues but we all know that you are able to cover quite some distance if needed.

 

[WestKirsty]

Buen Camino @LTfit ! I look forward to following you! Both online and in real life

 

[lovingkindness]

Buen camino!

 

[nycwalking]

Wish I were there.

Buen camino.

 

[David]

Buen Camino!!

 

[alexwalker]

I'm happy for you being back on a Camino!

Buen Camino!

 

[chinacat]

Buen Camino!!

 

[mspath]

We all will be actively following your new journey.
Keep cool and Carpe diem!

 

[CWBuff]

Buen Camino Lee!!!!

(P.S> Who needs an Albergue when one cannot walk the Camino ?!... )

 

[Magwood]

Buen camino Lee. Hope it’s a special one.

 

[QuailHiker]

Hola,
Arrived in Bilbao this afternoon and walked around for three hours. I've been to Bilbao numerous times so I didn't feel the need to visit tourist sights. It's 33c which surprised me. Last year when here it was definitely much cooler!

I'm staying at Bilbao Metropolitan Hostel which is close to the Camino. I was here last year. At about €20 it is a very clean (starched sheets!), has a kitchen with free coffee and tea and next door there is a Carrefour supermarkt.

I've already seen a few pilgrims sign in although I assume that they're here to start the Norte or are in the process. I don't expect to see anyone on the Olvidado but one never knows.View attachment 149391


I've got my credencial and first stamp from the Cathedral so I'm all set to start tomorrow!

Buen Camino! We walked it from Bonar last year in May.

 

[LTfit]

Stage 1 + part 2B

Arrived safely in Balmaseda at about 13.15 after 40 km. 19c when I left Bilbao and 29c arriving in Balmaseda.

The municipal albergue is great with a well equipped kitchen! I'm all alone and now that's it al.ost 17.00 don't expect anyone else to show up. No wifi here so I'll post pictures when I do.

Wikiloc did great . More tomorrow.

Correction 40 km not 50

@peregrina2000 Laurie is it possible to change to Live? Forgot to do so at the start.

 

[SabsP]

50k...

Rest well!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, Lee! I walked Bilbao to Balmaseda and I’m sure it was nowhere near 50 kms, because even 9 years ago, I couldn’t have done that. So maybe wikiloc isn’t working as well as you think.

 

[LTfit]

50k...

Rest well!!

Typo, only 40 km

 

[LTfit]

Buen camino, Lee! I walked Bilbao to Balmaseda and I’m sure it was nowhere near 50 kms, because even 9 years ago, I couldn’t have done that. So maybe wikiloc isn’t working as well as you think.

See above. It was a typo. Pleased so far with Wikiloc

 

[SabsP]

Typo, only 40 km

Ohh much less impressive then...

 

[laineylainey]

Oh my goodness, what a start 40k!
Buen camino peregrina. So looking forward to this post, thank you.

 

[alexwalker]

Typo, only 40 km

My longest day ever was 36k on the Portuguise. Too much for an old man, but I enjoyed it.

Have a great walk. I am thinking of you and you know why. Time to look forward.

 

[laineylainey]

I was thinking 30k was a stretch, even when I was 60!

 

[omicko]

Arrived safely in Balmaseda at about 13.15 after 40 km. 19c when I left Bilbao and 29c arriving in Balmaseda.

The municipal albergue is great with a well equipped kitchen! I'm all alone and now that's it al.ost 17.00 don't expect anyone else to show up. No wifi here so I'll post pictures when I do.

Wikiloc did great . More tomorrow.

Correction 40 km not 50

@peregrina2000 Laurie is it possible to change to Live? Forgot to do so at the start.

Buena Suerte LT. Saludos, Mick.

 

[LTfit]

No worries, I'm alive and well and left Villasante this morning, now having a café con leche in Espinosa de los Monteros. Wifi absent the last 2 days but in the Hostal in Santelices this afternoon I'll post info about the last stages.

 

[LTfit]

Hi all,
Finally some wifi available so I'll back up to Saturday Day 1, stages 1 + part 2B
Bilbao - Balmaseda 40 km
Stage was pretty straight forward using Cuñarro's (enderjace Wikiloc) track. Following the Ría there were few arrows and once you arrive at a roundabout and see a sign to Balmaseda to the left take it (don't follow the arrows straight!).
You will walk quite a ways along a road without Camino signage although on the sidewalk a GR tile. Don't worry! The track will take you to Puente de Diablo and the intersection where the Olvidado and Norte split. You can't miss it unless sleeping. The rest of the way is on bike paths and road till Balmaseda.
The albergue is up lots of steps. If it is locked as in my case call and someone will come to open up.
Great equiped kitchen and bathroom. There is a Día supermarkt close to the albergue (back down the stairs).
There was a storm in the afternoon with rain, thunder and lightening but I was luckily already inside.

Gr sign and Puente de Diablo

Turn off

Bike paths

Güeñes

Balmaseda

Albergue kitchen

 

[LTfit]

Sunday Day 2, rest stage 2B + part 3B Balmaseda - Villasante 38 km

What a day! Without Wikiloc tracks I would still be in the Monte. Seriously, more often than not there was no path nor arrows and way too often I had to check my phone or hold it at times since it sometimes did not beep when off course or beep that I was off course when I was on it. I made quite a few turn around.

The Camino was through fields with grass up to my waist, on muddy or stony "pathways", on a calzada romana and on slate stone. To boot it started drizzle then downpour with thunder and lightening when I was up in the mountains!

Stopped in Villasana de Mena for coffee and a local who had walked the Olvidado last year took me over to a newspaper store. The owner had a real Camino stamp. Apparently the town does nothing to support the Camino but there is hope since a new mayor was just elected.

It finally dried up and I made it to Casa Luisa, the home and donativo albergue of Isabel. What a fantastic welcome! She really takes care of pilgrims and has a fully stocked kitchen and has dinner made for you as well as breakfast. She is a wonder!


Two actual paths

This is a "path'


My friends

Casades

Albergue/casa

 

[LTfit]

Monday (today) Day 3 Villasana - Santelices 32 km
Rest of stage 3B + 4

Isabel made breakfast and when I was all packed and ready to go she walked the first 15 minutes with me till a road crossing.

Thank goodness today the signage was good but I still used my tracks to be sure. Today was a day of forests and more forests. Since it had rained so much at times it was careful walking, especially on muddy downhill paths. And most were at least visible today!

Not much to mention except that I was pleased to have a second coffee in Espinosa de los Monteros after 7 km as there was nothing open until Santelices. You see on Mondays many cafés are closed.

I was lucky today with the weather, a bit cloudy, a bit if sun and then ad soon as I reached El Rincón de las Merindades it started to pour and has been doing that on and off all afternoon. The woman at the reception said that it was been raining every day for weeks and that their huertos are suffering.

A French bicigrino arrived a while after me and got caught in the rain.


Luckily there was a steel rope to help with the crossing

Some amigo made some nice signs in the woods

More forest


Close-up of the strange rock formation you see in a distance. They followed me all day.

Coming into Santelices.

The Hostal is fine. There is a in front, a mesón across from the hostal, a panadería which was already closed and a very, very tiny grocery store with very little (no supermarkt @omicko ).

That's it for now. Tomorrow a short day to Arija.

 

[chinacat]

Tomorrow a short day to Arija.

Define ‘short’ … 30k, 35k?
()
I reckon you‘re sporting a pair of invisible roller skates, though they’d not be much use in that terrain …
Seriously, I’ve always admired your ability to cover those long distances

Happy trails, go well!

PS Interesting rock formations …

 

[laineylainey]

Loving your photos and commentry Thank you.

 

[laineylainey]

Did you notice at all if there was a shop in Espinosa? Hoping to get some supplies for stay in Espinosa and following day?

 

[LTfit]

Define ‘short’ … 30k, 35k?
()
I reckon you‘re sporting a pair of invisible roller skates, though they’d not be much use in that terrain …
Seriously, I’ve always admired your ability to cover those long distances

Happy trails, go well!

PS Interesting rock formations …

Actually 25 km. Not sure what I'll do the whole afternoon there, especially if the bad weather continues. I do have a book...
My problem is that I'm an early riser and can't sleep in, otherwise I would leave later.

 

[LTfit]

Did you notice at all if there was a shop in Espinosa? Hoping to get some supplies for stay in Espinosa and following day?

I didn't notice but it's a bigger town. Google supermercado Espinosa de los Monteros and see if you get hits.

 

[WestKirsty]

Did you notice at all if there was a shop in Espinosa? Hoping to get some supplies for stay in Espinosa and following day?

I was in Espinosa in October and yup, there's a small supermarket. There's also several bakeries. Cute little town!

 

[omicko]

Did you notice at all if there was a shop in Espinosa? Hoping to get some supplies for stay in Espinosa and following day?

Hi LL, Yes there are Supermarkets In Espinosa. In my guide where it says ALL SERVICES in the colour BLUE, indicates besides Accommodation there are Bars and Shops to buy food. Cheers, Mick.

 

[VNwalking]

Just joining this today...really happy to see it!
Hearty been Camino, Lee, and thanks for posting here!! Looking forward to playing catchup and following along!

 

[mla1]

Me too, I'm just starting to follow along now - I literally opened the Olvidado forum a few minutes ago to see if you had started yet!

Days of rain! I was not expecting to read that.

Buen camino!!!!

 

[aliciag56]

Lee i always enjoy reading your posts. I'm sure you don't remember, but you were the first peregrina I met, on my first camino, October 2018, both on the same bus to Pamplona, then same bus to SJPP. I'll always remember your friendliness toward a scared first timer. That camino, between ill-fitting boots and a lack of stamina (diagnosed with Parkinson's six months after that walk and now on game-changing meds) was a bust, but the 2 done after that, though only 23 stages each, were successful.
Thank you for being my first introduction to the warmth of the pilgrim community, and best wishes on this latest adventure!
Buen camino!

 

[LTfit]

Lee i always enjoy reading your posts. I'm sure you don't remember, but you were the first peregrina I met, on my first camino, October 2018, both on the same bus to Pamplona, then same bus to SJPP. I'll always remember your friendliness toward a scared first timer. That camino, between ill-fitting boots and a lack of stamina (diagnosed with Parkinson's six months after that walk and now on game-changing meds) was a bust, but the 2 done after that, though only 23 stages each, were successful.
Thank you for being my first introduction to the warmth of the pilgrim community, and best wishes on this latest adventure!
Buen camino!

How thoughtful of you to post . I'm embarrassed to say that I don't remember our chat but it warms my heart to know that I helped you at the start. That's what this community (and life) is about.

So pleased to hear that you were able to continue walking after your diagnosis . Cuidate mucho as they say in Spanish.

 

[LTfit]

Tuesday June 20th. Day 4
Santelices - Playa de Arija +/- 27 km
Stage 5

It poured on and off yesterday afternoon and also within 5 minutes of leaving this morning, with thunder and lightning. It didn't let up until 3 1/2 hours later. The sun came out just long enough to dry up.

It was a pretty straight forward day with almost perfect signage. I only went wrong twice. Terrain was varied some ups and downs but not strenuous. Paths of dirt, stones and some asphalt secondary roads.

Had coffee in Soncillo (take a look att the napkin) but due to all the rain only stopped in a small shop in Arija. All the cafés were closed, according to the young woman in the shop they only open on the weekends. There was a restaurant open near the entrance to town but it was a ways to the campground so I continued on.

Strange place to sleep, in a cabin in a camp ground which is almost empty. There are 2 bunk beds in the cabin The toilets and showers are in a separate building but there is a café that made me a nice ensalada mixta with avocado!

The town and camping is pretty dead but who did I just meet? A 77 year old Dutch woman travelling around with her husband of 83 in their camper!

The guy running the place with his wife and 2 dogs is very pleasant and gave me a roll of toilet paper to use while here, didn't think about this important detail!

Few pictures taken due to all the rain. Hopefully drier tomorrow

Sorry, pictures are taking too long to upload, maybe tomorrow in Casa Los Eros in Olea.

 

[VNwalking]

Buen camino and better weather tomorrow for you, @LTfit ! If it's any consolation it's raining up here too.

 

[islandwalker]

Wow- so much rain. And being in the mountains during a lightning storm. That’s quite a bit of adventure! Nice bike path in the photos. I’m so glad Wikiloc is working for you, at least in some cases.

 

[LTfit]

Ok let's see if I can upload some pictures from yesterday.

This was what was left out for breakfast since normal time serving is 8.30. Coffee, tea or Cola Cao you could make yourself.

Since the Hostal is a bit off the Camino (and tracks start at Albergue de la Estación which is closed), you can join the Camino by following the road then take the second left which brings you to a Vía Verde. At that point Wikiloc beeps that you're on track.

Ominous sky as you can see. It was already raining at this point.

Unfortunately not too long after this nice, wide, flat route you take a right into the woods.


Lots of "tunnel" walking and see how nice this path is! Appreciate it while it lasts



The bar is Soncillo was open! Check out the napkin


Not much picture taking when it's raining.


Felt bad for him. He seemed to want attention. I always talk to animals while walking.

Coming into Arija is kind of strange. You're on the side of the road for a bit with large trucks passing by then you see why. There is a large sand factory to the right. It take another couple of km to get to the campground, passed one restaurant close to the entrance of town otherwise all the other cafés are closed. The young woman in the tiny grocery store told me that they only open on the weekends!

The town looks as if it has had better days. Luckily the campground has a café and I had a lovely salad and clara.


Here is where pilgrims sleep. Two bunk beds in one room of the cabin. They are usually used by children.

 

[LTfit]

Today June 21 Day 5 (stage 6)
Arija - Olea Wikiloc says 33.87 km.

Soon after Arija we enter Cantabria.

There are two parts to today's walk:
Part 1 involved almost exactly 20 km along a provincial highway meandering around the Embalse del Ebro. Asphalt all the way, at times along a red pedestrian pathway but usually along the shoulder. The only positive point was that there was little traffic and that it was not raining although very misty.


You walk past quite a few hamlets but no luck with bars, not even a gas station.


This church tower in Villanueva de las Rozas is all that's left from a submerged church. It's also known as La Catedral de los Peces.
Many towns were destroyed and/or moved when the dam was constructed.


Lots of these little towns had crochet banners hanging on fences etc.



The dam was inaugurated in 1952, construction from 1921-1945. Prisoners during the Civil War were used to construct the dam. This plaque commemorates their efforts and suffering.

Last picture while circling the dam.

Part 2 to follow.

 

[LTfit]

Today Part 2 Villafría - Olea
(Stage 6)
Finally leaving the carretera you start a climb to Villafría and the Roman ruins of Juliobriga. Not lots left to see but worth the stop.


The trouble began after the climb out of Retortillo and into the woods. It was a beautiful start but I went wrong by following this arrow:

Rather than making a turn off to the left where these poles indicating routes were pulled out of the ground:

After this it was a nightmare! I saw one very old painted arrow on a tree then nothing. The path was covered in thorny bushes and tree branches, no real visible path (except for cow paths and dung) to be seen.


With phone in one hand and poles in another I had to cross a barbed wire fence to go in the direction of the track.

Here I ended up, criss crossing the cows to finally come to these arrows

where my Wikiloc tracks finally pinged that I was back on track. Who knows where the real path was but I was joyous at reaching this point, making my way then downhill to Cervatos.

After all the trouble in the monte, I had a surprise waiting for me there. The highlight was the open church in Cervatos. An elderly woman was giving a tour to a couple but was excited to have a pilgrim visit. She even had a special church stamp for me


I have lots of pictures of the inside but will spare you.

Cervatos to Olea was still another 5 km and I managed to get into trouble again!

Path anyone?

They couldn't help me either so once again I made my own path till my phone pinged and brought me to a road that took me safely to Olea and the lovely Alojamiento Rural Los Eros.

As the store and bar in Olea are closed on Wednesdays (and not one café open all day!) the owner offered to make me something to eat.

Sorry for all these details but maybe it will help those of you planning to walk the Olvidado. Tracks are essential!

 

[mla1]

LT bushwhacker! Intrepid peregrina. The bleeding shins are impressive!
The route looks beautiful! Glad you were able to eat.

 

[LTfit]

In order to end the day positive, here is my home for the night. I definitely recommend it!

 

[LTfit]

LT bushwhacker! Intrepid peregrina. The bleeding shins are impressive!
The route looks beautiful! Glad you were able to eat.

To let pilgrims know that pants are possibly a better option.

 

[peregrina2000]

Part 1 involved almost exactly 20 km along a provincial highway meandering around the Embalse del Ebro. Asphalt all the way, at times along a red pedestrian pathway but usually along the shoulder

Don’t Ender’s tracks show you the possible alternative that cuts off a lot of the highway but doesn’t take you past the Roman ruins on the top of the hill? I know he’s got that somewhere on his Wikiloc page!

An elderly woman was giving a tour to a couple but was excited to have a pilgrim visit. She even had a special church stamp for me

I’m assuming that was not an X-rated stamp!

So glad you have a nice place to stay tonight, enjoying all your posts a lot!

 

[alwalker]

Hola,
Arrived in Bilbao this afternoon and walked around for three hours. I've been to Bilbao numerous times so I didn't feel the need to visit tourist sights. It's 33c which surprised me. Last year when here it was definitely much cooler!

I'm staying at Bilbao Metropolitan Hostel which is close to the Camino. I was here last year. At about €20 it is a very clean (starched sheets!), has a kitchen with free coffee and tea and next door there is a Carrefour supermarkt.

I've already seen a few pilgrims sign in although I assume that they're here to start the Norte or are in the process. I don't expect to see anyone on the Olvidado but one never knows.View attachment 149391


I've got my credencial and first stamp from the Cathedral so I'm all set to start tomorrow!

I am ahead of you and in two days time I will be in Santander. The Norte is pressing all my Camino buttons. There are enough people to have a camino family if you want, without having to fight for bed's, easy walking and spectacular scenery, even the damp weather is adding to the effects
Love it all.
Have another great camino.

 

[laineylainey]

@LTfit , thanks so for the route commentary and lovely photos. When I was downloading Enders maps for the section to Olea from Airja, 29k or 31k the shorter being more difficult?

 

[VNwalking]

Oy. A bloodied peregrina! You're made of tough stuff, Lee!

I have lots of pictures of the inside but will spare you

Pretty please?

 

[LTfit]

Don’t Ender’s tracks show you the possible alternative that cuts off a lot of the highway but doesn’t take you past the Roman ruins on the top of the hill? I know he’s got that somewhere on his Wikiloc page!

I have no idea Laurie, I just blindly downloaded the Olvidado tracks on his personal (enderjace) page. After Retortillo I did see this post for the GR 99 and thought of @WestKirsty

Then a sign showing 8 km to Arroyo which is the town I passed on the road where I took the picture of the plaques for the prisoners during the Civil War.

I’m assuming that was not an X-rated stamp!

So glad you have a nice place to stay tonight, enjoying all your posts a lot!

I thought of you often thinking how did you do it!

 

[LTfit]

I am ahead of you and in two days time I will be in Santander. The Norte is pressing all my Camino buttons. There are enough people to have a camino family if you want, without having to fight for bed's, easy walking and spectacular scenery, even the damp weather is adding to the effects
Love it all.
Have another great camino.

How has it been for you?

Can imagine changing, at least at this point. I've walked the Norte twice, last year for the second time when I decided not to walk the Olvidado.

 

[LTfit]

@LTfit , thanks so for the route commentary and lovely photos. When I was downloading Enders maps for the section to Olea from Airja, 29k or 31k the shorter being more difficult?

I don't know and honestly didn't give it much thought.

I had reached my limit of posting pictures but it's good to know that during the second monte section after Cervatos (or the first part?) you will come across a disgruntled farmer who has closed off a section of the path twice. I would have gone wrong but saw this arrow in a distance. I've attached a full version otherwise difficult to see.


And here is the barbed wire fence I needed to manoeuver through:

Learn from my mistakes. But then again, were they mine or just poor signage? I've definitely come across 2 very nice wooden signs pointing in the wrong direction.

 

[laineylainey]

Where the farmer has fenced off the path in front in your photo how did you find the path again?

 

[LTfit]

Where the farmer has fenced off the path in front in your photo how did you find the path again?

It was in 2 places and I just threw off my pack and crawled underneath to follow the track.

I read something interesting on the Spanish Camino Olvidado Facebook page (I've been posting there also about my travails). Someone who did the Olvidado last March had no problems whatsoever during yesterday's stage when using Rosa Ray tracks. I've messaged them and asked how recent their tracks are. Those of Cuñarro are from 2017. Maybe that's the problem? What do you think @peregrina2000 ?

 

[LTfit]

Ok guys, it's decided. I've just downloaded RayyRosa tracks for tomorrow. To find their tracks google Ray Rosa tracks. They have them for most Camino. You can download each separate track to Wikiloc. Other ways are also possible but since I now feel comfortable with Wikiloc I'm not going to change now.

One must be flexible

https://www.rayyrosa.com/tracks/#google_vignette

 

[mla1]

@LTfit I used the route marked on mapy.cz , and then used Ender's route in wikiloc, and then downloaded whatever the most recently posted route I could find (from wikiloc) on a different map app (Pocket Earth). A bit of overkill - but sometimes it was helpful to see how they differed!

 

[peregrina2000]

Maybe that's the problem? What do you think @peregrina2000 ?

Well, I don’t know. Are you sure that Ray and Rosa’s tracks aren’t actually Ender’s tracks anyway? They have not walked all of the tracks they post, nothing wrong with that, but I would just check to see if they are different.

I’m going to get in touch with Ender now and see if he comes on.

BTW, I always have several wikiloc tracks for each stage downloaded and available offline, just for this purpose. If I come to a problem point, I can flip back and forth and see what other options might be there. I go to wikiloc the night before, download one or two of the old standbys, and then look for a very recent trail or two. This “flipping back and forth” is not complicated but it is kind of a pain. You have to stop following one of your offline tracks, and then go back to your list of offline tracks and follow another one. Your own recorded track will not be affected by any of this, but you will see your location relative to a new track that may have a better solution.

 

[LTfit]

I seem to have joined two posts by accident so here's an edit and complete post of today's walk.

June 22 Day 6 Olea - Aguilar de Campoo (stage 7)

The weather and path was on my side today. The Camino followed nice wide country dirt paths and some country paved roads. It was pretty flat all the way to Aguilar de Campoo.



I guess you get the picture.

The Camino meandered through some bucolic hamlets. Not a soul in sight. No cars. Stillness. And Storks!



Only experienced one hiccup and it had nothing to do with the track but rather mother nature. Upon reaching Las Quintanillas via a road, the path diverted into a narrow muddy path which was impassable without sinking into mud up to my calves.



I know, I tried every which way with my sticks. After various attempts and already wet, muddy shoes and socks I gave up and retraced my steps back to the road which I took to La Quintana and rejoined the track. The original path was just a shortcut so I only added about one km to the walk.

The rest of the walk was uneventful, fine with me after yesterday!

Aguilar de Campoo is a hopping town compared to my other stops. I enjoyed sitting outside on the Plaza de España in front of the church.





Tomorrow to Cervera de Pisuerga then the big mountain stage to Guardo.

 

[peregrina2000]

That does seem quite complicated and beyond me

Well, I think it’s worth a try. Go sit in a café in Aguilar and try this.

Step 1. Download (make available offline) several different tracks for Aguilar to Cervera.

Step 2. Start to follow one of them.

Step 3. Click on Remove track. You will then be asked if you are sure you want to remove track. Say yes. Edited to say: Note that when you remove the track, you are ONLY removing it from your navigation screen. That track will still be there for you to go back to in your list of offline tracks. It doesn’t affect your own navigation record either. All it does is allow you to flip back and forth between or among two or several tracks when you come to something like a barbed wire fence.

Step 4. Go to your list of available offline tracks and start to navigate a different track. Just look at it to see if it gives you different options. Of course, sitting in Aguilar, you’re not going to see any track that does anything other than goes down towards the reservoir, but when you get to a barbed wire fence, this is a very good option.

I reallly think that this is a good strategy for anyone who is using Wikiloc GPS tracks on remote, untraveled caminos. Others have other strategies for using different map apps, but I don’t think any advice about that would be helpful now. Working with wikiloc, this is the best way I’ve found to make sure you have as much info as possible when you get to a difficult spot. You simply cannot tell in advance whether one track or another is going to have a hiccup.

 

[LTfit]

@LTfit I used the route marked on mapy.cz , and then used Ender's route in wikiloc, and then downloaded whatever the most recently posted route I could find (from wikiloc) on a different map app (Pocket Earth). A bit of overkill - but sometimes it was helpful to see how they differed!

That's way too complicated for me . I'm just getting the hang of Wikiloc, please don't confuse me

 

[mla1]

It is honestly super easy - but I get it!

I HATE retracing my steps - so I negotiated map-a-mania on my phone instead!
🗺

(But - really - if you have another map app on your phone - it’s about three very obvious clicks. And, as you can tell, you would have access to loads of unsolicited advice on how to do it from Peregrinas who wish we were walking now too! )

 

[peregrina2000]

Just a heads up to say that Ray and Rosa’s tracks for the Olvidado are Ender’s tracks.

But Ender has some very pressing family business right now and can’t help at the moment. I’m sure he will help out when he has time.

And I totally get what LT says about different programs. I had a brief moment last year when I tried playing around with other maps, I know there are some great apps out there. But I just decided to stick wtih what I know. For me, wikiloc is the best of my options, so I keep working on making wikiloc easier and better for me.

Oh, and another heads up, I have edited my earlier post (#60) on how to have several options available on wikiloc to add an observation to step 3. This may be obvious to you, but maybe not. At Step 3, when you are asked whether you want to remove the track, and you click yes, all that it does is remove it from your navigation screen. It does NOT remove it from your list of offline tracks, so you will still have access to it. This is a result of the fact that you can only navigate one track at a time on wikiloc, but you can easily change which track you are navigating with no effect on what trails you have stored offline or on your own recorded navigation.

 

[islandwalker]

sometimes it was helpful to see how they differed!

I like to do that too. Before I leave home, I download alternatives from Wikiloc onto GaiaGPS because it has a layer that shows the Spanish IGN maps. Then I can see everything (in different colors) on one map. I make the label for the track end in the wikiloc number. On the ground, if the Wikiloc track I'm following takes me to a problem area, I turn on cell take a look at my Gaia "index map", choose the best alternative, and open it (using the saved number) on Wikiloc.

Peregrina 2000's method above sounds good for on the trail too. If you have Wikiloc premium, you could also use the "search by passing area" feature when you are stuck. Turn on cell, put the circle in the search function of Wikiloc around where you want to go, and a list will pop up of all the Wikiloc tracks that pass through that area.

 

[WestKirsty]

June 22 Day 6 Olea - Aguilar de Campoo

The rest of the walk was uneventful, fine with me after yesterday!

We were just so close to being in the same place at the same time! And I'm so glad the weather was better for you today. You deserve a break!!

 

[laineylainey]

Starting to think the Olvivdado is not the route I want to walk if there isn't enough signage. I am not technically savvy and the thought of having to download several different online routes is more than beyond my thinking! I love your posts @LTfit but thanks for your honesty about this path!

 

[LTfit]

Starting to think the Olvivdado is not the route I want to walk if there isn't enough signage. I am not technically savvy and the thought of having to download several different online routes is more than beyond my thinking! I love your posts @LTfit but thanks for your honesty about this path!

In Salinas de Pisuerga having a café con leche. Hurray, an open café! I've only 11 km left to Cervera de Pisuerga.

@laineylainey you have lots of time to decide. I'd say wait until I've finished. Don't worry, I'll always be honest!

A comment on my post on the Spanish Camino Olvidado Facebook page kind of ticked me off (the rest very supportive). The guy posted a link to the orange guide saying that if I had used it I would not have had a problem and in addition would know what I'm seeing and why important . I couldn't help myself and asked: how do you know I haven't used it?

Will post more later today. Putting my phone back on airplane mode.

 

[laineylainey]

We were just so close to being in the same place at the same time! And I'm so glad the weather was better for you today. You deserve a break!!

@WestKirsty are you on the Olvidado or if not what date do you start?

 

[laineylainey]

following advice about downloading alternative stage maps offline on Wikilocs, I have downloaded some alternatives to the Ender ones for the Aguilar to Cervera I already have, including one posted April 2023. Hopefully will show how to deal with the fence situation!!

 

[peregrina2000]

I have downloaded some alternatives to the Ender ones for the Aguilar to Cervera I already have,

But the fence situation happened between Arija and Olea, @laineylainey. I think Aguilar to Cervera is straightforward and uncomplicated, unlikely to be problems there.

Here’s someone from 2019 who seems to have walked the road for that last stretch into Olea.

6ª-ETAPA : CAMINO OLVIDADO : ARIJA-OLEA (DESDE EL CAMPING HASTA CASA MIGUEL).

6ª-ETAPA : CAMINO OLVIDADO : ARIJA-OLEA (DESDE EL CAMPING HASTA CASA MIGUEL). Hiking trail in Arija, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. 6ª - ETAPA: CAMINO OLVIDADO: ARIJA-OLEA . DESPUES DE PASAR FRIO EN EL CAMPING DECIDIMOS ENTRAR EN CALOR CON...

www.wikiloc.com

Here’s someone who walked in May of this year and shows the off-road walk into Olea.

CAMINO OLVIDADO. Etapa 5: Arija - Olea

CAMINO OLVIDADO. Etapa 5: Arija - Olea Hiking trail in Arija, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Otra etapa de mucha carretera, una más, pero además esta ha sido una etapa a base de bocadillos, y no porque nosotros lo queramos. Para hacer más...

www.wikiloc.com

You can easily find another one or two. Look for recent trails.

What I would do in this case, because @LT had a problem, would be to write to the author of the May 2023 tracks and ask specifically about this portion, explaining that a friend had a bad time, etc. I have found that wikiloc people are universally helpful and responsive, you can message them right on their track page and you will get an email when they respond.

I am not technically savvy and the thought of having to download several different online routes is more than beyond my thinking!

This is not a complication it is a multiplication. You don’t have to do anything different than what you are doing now, you just have to do it more than once. I don’t do it way in advance, either, because that clogs up the list of tracks that are available offline and makes it more cumbersome to flip back and forth.

I personally think the easiest way to deal with my “multiple track options” is to have no more than two or three days’ walking on the “available offline” list. This means that each night, I remove the day’s offline options and add a few for future days. Yes, it takes 5 minutes or so but it makes things simpler while walking.

Good luck!

 

[LTfit]

Great advice as always @peregrina2000 . Maybe the part before and after Cervatos was just a hiccup, I'll never know but one thing is for sure, the arrows don't always coincide with the track - at least mine - there were lots of overgrown bushes, grass, you name it and a farmer fenced off the route twice (luckily it was easy to go under and I saw an arrow in the distance). I guess I'll just leave it at that. I survived

And thanks to @mla1 and @islandwalker for your advice. Using Wikiloc was already a big step for me. It's not that I can't handle the technology but rather that I don't want to. I'm not a planner, I usually pick a Camino, think about potential stages and go (then change the stages on day 2). But thanks for trying

 

[LTfit]

And on to today! Wow, it was the best day so far! No need to look at my phone because the signage (arrows or the metal Camino Olvidado markings) were excellent! Chapeau to the amigos who did this great work!

June 23 Aguilar de Campoo - Cervera de Pisuerga (stage 8) 28.91 km Wikiloc

It was a wonderful paseo today along the river Pisuerga. The day started out misty but within an hour the sun came out and stayed with me the whole way. Now 34c in Cervera de Pisuerga.

I was accompanied by gurgling water all the way. Terrain mostly flat, beautiful mountains in a distance (Montaña Palentina). No complaints here. And there was an open café in Salinas de Pisuerga after 17 km.

I'm staying in the Albergue Turístico de Cervera de Pisuerga. It's more an hostal since they only have private and double rooms but the kitchen is very well equipped. I had WhatsApp contact with them a while back but never actually reserved a room as they require payment by Bizum necessitating a Spanish bank account. I called yesterday only to hear that all the single rooms were taken but I was offered a double for €35 (sheets and towels included). I jumped at the offer as another hostal I called was completely booked.

An impression of today:

The embalse you climb up to shortly after leaving Aguilar de Campoo.






Look closely, two Storks on top!

The Camino Lebaniego passes through. Their signs are quite good.

If you zoom in you can see the crochet work on the trees.

All in all a wonderful day. Tomorrow a long one of 39 km to Guardo and finally a municipal albergue with a hospitalera

 

[mla1]

34 degrees!!!!!!!! That's harder than any blocked off path! Great photos!!!!

 

[WestKirsty]

@WestKirsty are you on the Olvidado or if not what date do you start?

I took the Camino Viejo (starts in Pamplona instead of Bilbao) and just walked into Aguilar de Campoo where I'll join the Olvidado. I'm taking a rest day here tomorrow for some sightseeing so I'll start walking the Olvidado from Aguilar on Sunday

 

[laineylainey]

But the fence situation happened between Arija and Olea, @laineylainey. I think Aguilar to Cervera is straightforward and uncomplicated, unlikely to be problems there.

Here’s someone from 2019 who seems to have walked the road for that last stretch into Olea.

6ª-ETAPA : CAMINO OLVIDADO : ARIJA-OLEA (DESDE EL CAMPING HASTA CASA MIGUEL).

6ª-ETAPA : CAMINO OLVIDADO : ARIJA-OLEA (DESDE EL CAMPING HASTA CASA MIGUEL). Hiking trail in Arija, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. 6ª - ETAPA: CAMINO OLVIDADO: ARIJA-OLEA . DESPUES DE PASAR FRIO EN EL CAMPING DECIDIMOS ENTRAR EN CALOR CON...

www.wikiloc.com

Here’s someone who walked in May of this year and shows the off-road walk into Olea.

CAMINO OLVIDADO. Etapa 5: Arija - Olea

CAMINO OLVIDADO. Etapa 5: Arija - Olea Hiking trail in Arija, Castilla y León (España). Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Otra etapa de mucha carretera, una más, pero además esta ha sido una etapa a base de bocadillos, y no porque nosotros lo queramos. Para hacer más...

www.wikiloc.com

You can easily find another one or two. Look for recent trails.

What I would do in this case, because @LT had a problem, would be to write to the author of the May 2023 tracks and ask specifically about this portion, explaining that a friend had a bad time, etc. I have found that wikiloc people are universally helpful and responsive, you can message them right on their track page and you will get an email when they respond.


This is not a complication it is a multiplication. You don’t have to do anything different than what you are doing now, you just have to do it more than once. I don’t do it way in advance, either, because that clogs up the list of tracks that are available offline and makes it more cumbersome to flip back and forth.

I personally think the easiest way to deal with my “multiple track options” is to have no more than two or three days’ walking on the “available offline” list. This means that each night, I remove the day’s offline options and add a few for future days. Yes, it takes 5 minutes or so but it makes things simpler while walking.

Good luck!

Thanks Laurie, very sound advice. Yes, I will look for more recent

I took the Camino Viejo (starts in Pamplona instead of Bilbao) and just walked into Aguilar de Campoo where I'll join the Olvidado. I'm taking a rest day here tomorrow for some sightseeing so I'll start walking the Olvidado from Aguilar on Sunday

Great, maybe you are going to post as well? The more stories the better!

 

[LTfit]

Forgot to post pictures of the albergue (and I had reached the limit):




Bathroom is next to my bedroom.

 

[LTfit]

I took the Camino Viejo (starts in Pamplona instead of Bilbao) and just walked into Aguilar de Campoo where I'll join the Olvidado. I'm taking a rest day here tomorrow for some sightseeing so I'll start walking the Olvidado from Aguilar on Sunday

Sorry we'll miss each other! Sunday I'll be in Puente Almuhey so 2 days ahead.

Aguilar de Campoo is a good place to start. The first few days are nothing to write home about but it's all part of the Camino experience

 

[LTfit]

I'm hijacking my own thread for a moment. @peregrina2000 look what Facebook just "reminded" me:

Already 8 years ago visiting San Juan de la Peña during our Camí Sant Jaume . That's how long I haven't seen you in person (zoom is not the same thing).

Ok back to serious business!

ps if you want me to remove the picture let me know

 

[islandwalker]

Yes, I will look for more recent

Just in case you haven't seen it, there's a spot on Wikiloc under "More filters" that lets you refine a search by how recently tracks were recorded...last 30 days, last 3 months, or last 12 months.

 

[VNwalking]

All in all a wonderful day

No kidding. It looks fabulous.
Happy for you, @LTfit !!
Next year. I can wait. But eagerly.

 

[Theatregal]

Enjoying your words and beautiful photos so much @LTfit ! I'm on my couch, hit hard by covid (first time) and your posts are a lovely distraction!

 

[LTfit]

Enjoying your words and beautiful photos so much @LTfit ! I'm on my couch, hit hard by covid (first time) and your posts are a lovely distraction!

Sorry to hear but glad I can brighten up your day.

 

[LTfit]

Well I'm beat! I guess that's allowed as I completed a marathon in the blasting sun with lots of ups and downs. Supposedly the stage is 39.3 km (can't upload my Wikiloc trail since I have no wifi in the albergue in Guardo) but my Garmin says 42.8 km. Either way, enough!

June 24 Stage 8 Cervera de Pisuerga - Guardo

It was a spectacular day, albeit hard. And there was only one hiccup within the first hour but I'll explain that, the rest of the day and upload pictures when I have wifi.

 

[VNwalking]

Good going, Lee!
Wow. When you say 'Enough' that's really enough. Unimaginable, for some of us - but I'm so pleased that you still have long days in you.

 

[laineylainey]

Gosh, well well done! You are a Camino walking champion (imo)!

 

[peregrina2000]

And there was only one hiccup within the first hour but I'll explain that,

Let me guess. You turned left off the street after leaving Cervera. So glad you made it and had a great day.

 

[alansykes]

Assume you'll be doing Ender's no longer so new mountain section via Caminayo tomorrow? It's a beauty.

 

[laineylainey]

I don't know and honestly didn't give it much thought.

I had reached my limit of posting pictures but it's good to know that during the second monte section after Cervatos (or the first part?) you will come across a disgruntled farmer who has closed off a section of the path twice. I would have gone wrong but saw this arrow in a distance. I've attached a full version otherwise difficult to see.

View attachment 149855

And here is the barbed wire fence I needed to manoeuver through:
View attachment 149857
Learn from my mistakes. But then again, were they mine or just poor signage? I've definitely come across 2 very nice wooden signs pointing in the wrong direction.

@LTfit , just to say, you are not the only one who found this part of the Journey to Olea confusing. I have downloaded someone else's wikiloc trail ( they walked the Olvidado this May) and they talk about this confusing part, lack of signage, wrong signage and the famous barbed wire fence! Hoping their map shows their detour at the part!

 

[LTfit]

Assume you'll be doing Ender's no longer so new mountain section via Caminayo tomorrow? It's a beauty.

I sure did!

In the great albergue in Puente Almuhey, showered, clean and have washed my clothes!

After resting up a bit I'll go in search of a café with wifi and catch up.

The B route is definitely worth the effort and definitely not as confusing as I had read it was. Me pleased

 

[LTfit]

Wifi available at Hotel Río Cea down the street from the albergue. A cortado should wake me up from the San Miguel Sonia left in the albergue for me. I'm a clara person. Best drink after walking on a hot day.

Now back to yesterday.
June 24 Stage 8 Cervera de Pisuerga - Guardo 39.36 km Wikiloc

Leaving Cervera you definitely need to follow a track. You cross the river, cross the road then (yes Laurie) turn left up into the monte. Lots of underbrush but doable with flechas here and there until you get to this point:

where there is a barbed wire fence with supposedly an opening which has been closed with metal wire impossible to budge. I tried for about 15 minutes, also using my walking sticks but that wire was embedded into the wood. I just read in the Spanish Camino Olvidado Facebook page that someone in may had the same problem. Once again, I climbed between the barbed wire.
Onto the road you see this:

Real helpful. What you need to do is go backwards on the road till you find these arrows:

So my advice is to take the road from the start to the above point. It's not long and will have you this hassle.
Luckily the rest of the day was fine using Ender's tracks and there was pretty good signage.

Scenery is outstanding! The Montaña Palentina follows you all day.


And look at this gem!





But I can't remember the name of the town right now.

 

[LTfit]

Part 2 (can't upload more than 10 pictures)

Coffee stop after 19 km in Tarilonte. I was really lucky because the bar was closed but I saw a man behind it unloading drinks from a car. He was from the local town association and opened it up and made me a coffee at 10.45. FYI usually opens at 11.00/11.30.

After that you need to wait till Santibañez de la Peña. By the my feet were dragging and the sun was beating down.

It's a long slog into Guardo and the albergue is over the bridge about 1,5 uphill from town. €15 with disposable sheets + quilts although there was a clean set of cloth sheets next to my bed which I used instead.






Large place with microwave and coffee machine with coffee.

 

[LTfit]

Today Stage 10B Guardo - Puente Almuhey

Back in the albergue without wifi but tomorrow a short day to Cistierna and staying in Hostal Moderno which should have wifi so signing off till then

 

[VNwalking]

Me pleased

What could be better than that? Yay!

And look at this gem!

Scenery is outstanding!

No kidding. Wow.

You're getting close to this place, which is the only part of the Olvidado that gives me pause. Curious to know how you find it. I 've done some hairy descents in remote places, but don't have a sense of how it compares, say, to Ladakhi-scary. Since a picture's worth a thousand words, if you go that way, a decent one would be most welcome. May you have safe and happy walking, peregrina!

The only bit of the Olvidado where I felt seriously scared (and definitely had to use my hands) was the descent from Villar del Puerto to the Faedo de Ciñera after Vegacervera. Something like a cliff, and very slippery as it was pouring with rain when I went down there.

 

[annmte]

You're getting close to this place, which is the only part of the Olvidado that gives me pause. Curious to know how you find it. I 've done some hairy descents in remote places, but don't have a sense of how it compares, say, to Ladakhi-scary. Since a picture's worth a thousand words, if you go that way, a decent one would be most welcome.

I did this a few weeks ago. I can imagine in pouring rain it would have been pretty scary. It was completely dry when we were there. It was pretty steep, and the rocks were sharp, but we took it slow and it wasn't horrible, especially with poles. I'll attach a photo, but I'm putting on a face to make it look more scary than it really was. Worst case, you could scoot down on your butt. And the reward afterwards (Faedo de Ciñera) is absolutely worth it!

 

[peregrina2000]

So my advice is to take the road from the start to the above point.

LT’s comment is about the exit from Cervera. I totally agree with her advice to skip the left hand turn soon after leaving town. It brings you right back to the road. Much easier to stay on the road till you get to the right hand turn-off, which takes you up to the abandoned mine.

Look at the wikiloc tracks, @laineylainey and anyone else who is heading out that way, imho you should just stay on the road till the turn-off. It sounds to me like owners are trying to keep people off their property now that the traffic is increasing a little.

Hostal Moderno

One of my favorite camino people is the blond receptionist/waitress who works in the Moderno. (Based on my ethnic stereotypes, she looks German to me but is española through and through). She took a tick out of my back on my first Olvidado, and the next time I went through she told me she remembered me and my tick! Send her a hug from me! And their menú del día is the best thing in town. Is the albergue closed, @LTfit? It shared space with a floor for immigrant workers, so I wonder if there are maybe Ukranian refugees living there.

It was completely dry when we were there. It was pretty steep, and the rocks were sharp, but we took it slow and it wasn't horrible, especially with poles.

I would not miss this descent, unless it was pouring. There is no real path, you just pick your way over sharp rocks, but as @annmte says you will be fine if you take your time and place your feet carefully. I may have contributed to the fear factor with some of my posts, but I would definitely do it again, especially with the reward of the beech forest down below.

 

[LTfit]

Returning to the present (and not to worry about stages down the road).

Yesterday Guardo - Puente Almuhey
Stage 10B (alternative through the mountains) 31.5 km Wikiloc

The day started downhill from the albergue to join the track for the mountain route. Bingo, although Sunday, a bar was open at 6.30. It's right on the Camino so you can't miss it.


Open every day except Mondays. And when I left, I even got a Buen Camino!

You walk along the carretera till right before Velilla de Río Carrión, then onto a carretera privada which brings you through a imho shabby town. Right before crossing the bridge on your right is Hostal Stop which also had an open bar.



Soon after that you follow a dirt path then enter into the woods. I had downloaded two tracks to be on the safe side (Enderjace and Julia Reflexología). It's a bit confusing at first as there are many narrows paths covered with leaves. Ender's track was invisible so I switched to Julia's. Her track went wrong once but I was able to traverse and catch the track again.



After that it is a breeze! Really. Both sets of tracks then coincided along a lovely path of dead leaves. Your feet will appreciate it. You are constantly climbing. Much of the stage is along a wide, dirt road.

There was not one moment during the rest of the entire stage where I worried about getting lost but...there are no arrows until you get near the top and enter... León. Really!


It was tough climbing at times, reaching 1,500 meters but the views from the top were worth all the effort.



Lots of beehives in the area.



Went through the cute village of Caminayo.



Staying in a real pilgrim's albergue with the lovely hospitalera Sonia. She's a real gem! There are three bedrooms with 2 bunk beds and three bathrooms! The town has really made an effort to welcome pilgrims. There is a kitchen with a microwave and washing machine with detergent. There are condiments and all the ingredients to make a nice breakfast.
There is no fridge at the moment but Sonia has asked the town to purchase a small one.

 

[LTfit]

Today June 26 Camino Olvidado stage 11 Puente Almuhey - Cistierna 22.97 km Wikiloc (includes deviation to lookout point Mirador de los Tejos)

So I woke up this morning thinking, "great, today is a short stage, what's 22 km?"



It started off nice and sweet along fields, a few hamlets and a lagoon. Perfect! Haha then began the continuous incline, in total over 500 meters during the stage but the sights!






Then a huge, long downhill with a combination of wide paths then narrow "goat" tracks with lots of loose rocks. Short stages can be deceiving!


At the bottom you come to a paved road which was blocked off but easy enough to climb over.

The track takes you to the old albergue which is closed but not far off you reach the center. The most hopping part was on the street of Hostal Moderno.

Quite dated but can't complain, for €25 you have a private room with a double bed and bathroom. They also have a restaurant which was getting busy as of 13.30. I had my first menu for €9 as I only wanted a primer plato otherwise €12 including wine, water, bread, coffee and dessert!

Tomorrow stage 12B to Boñar but there doesn't look like there is much difference between the A and B routes except that B is a few km longer.

Surprise, surprise! When checking in I met two Spanish guys who walked the Lebaniego and now the Valdiniense.

 

[peregrina2000]

There is no fridge at the moment but Sonia has asked the town to purchase a small one.

Too late for your visit with Sonia, but any pilgrim albergue in need of repairs or equipment should consider an application for help with APOC (American Pilgrims). They give out a lot of grants every year, maximum $6,000, but requests can be submitted in multiple years. Here’s the Spanish version of the page.

I’m not involved with APOC, but in my experience helping a few groups get funding, they are very generous and very much open to funding pilgrim projects on untraveled caminos.

The deadline is February 1, so it’s a long way away, but getting the documentation and papers together takes a little time. I think I remember that letters of support are needed.

Sorry to take this off topic a bit, LT, but keep it in mind as you move on!

 

[peregrina2000]

It's a bit confusing at first as there are many narrows paths covered with leaves.

Part of the confusion can also come with the number of ”points” each track contains. The greater the number of points, the more you can drill down to the micro level. I know I’m not the only one to have had a few confusing moments in that forest after Velilla!

 

[LTfit]

And while you're here Laurie, I'm sending you saludos de Rachel (she indeed remembers you).