Portuguese Central or Coastal

[PAK]

Starting to plan for a Portuguese Camino in September 24 from Porto and cannot decide whether to walk the central or coastal. I'd appreciate comments and suggestions from fellow pilgrims that have walked either. Really interested in understanding the level of support ie accommodation options, places of interest. Thank you.

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola, @PAK I have not walked either camino but like you I have plans for Sept this year. My research is leading me to walking the coastal route, at least as far as the Spanish boarder. Based on fewer hills and the coastal scenery. Just a preference. From there I will make up my mind. Cheers

 

[kenwilltravel]

Starting to plan for a Portuguese Camino in September 24 from Porto and cannot decide whether to walk the central or coastal. I'd appreciate comments and suggestions from fellow pilgrims that have walked either. Really interested in understanding the level of support ie accommodation options, places of interest. Thank you.

This is a complicated question and you're going to get a lot of opinions on each side. Having walked the coastal twice and part of the Central once (Porto to Ponte de Lima), I can offer a few general comments:
1) From a pure walking point of view, the coastal is much easier, hands down. On the coast it's mostly flat while you do get some elevations on the Central. Also, some of the road walking is a bit hairy on the Central, from Porto up to about Mindelo.
2) In terms of historical towns, Central definitely has the edge, with Barcelos, Ponte de Lima and Valença. Ponte de Lima earns my vote for most charming town in northern Portugal; we spent several days there to enjoy some local festivals. There's also the 12th century D. Zameiro bridge over the Rio Ave just south of Vila d'Arcos. Of course, you can find some interesting things on the Coastal as well, like the Celtic excavation site near A Guarda and the replica of Columbus' ship Pinta in Baiona harbour (you'll be amazed at how small it was). I also like the older waterfront parts of Vila do Conde and Viana do Costello; very scenic.
3) In terms of natural scenery, it's a bit of a toss-up. Do you prefer ocean or mountain views? Beach boardwalks or forested trails? This is purely a personal preference thing. My wife emphatically prefers the coast and I'm okay with either.
4) "Pilgrim ambience." I put that in quotes because it's kind of hard to pin down. But basically I mean that sense of being on a medieval-like pilgrimage, or quest. You might argue that the coastal is a bit weak in that because, frankly, you're walking through so many modern beach resort towns, particularly on the Portuguese side of the Minho. On the Central, we found we tended to bond more with fellow travelers, there was just more, well, pilgrim spirit. This is such an intangible thing that I don't want to make too much of it but there it is.
5) Accommodations are good on both, probably a bit more on the coastal because of all the beach resorts along the way but not a make-or-break issue.

 

[Corned Beef]

Good summary from @kenwilltravel.

The coast is great for those like me that appreciate the sea views but there is not much more than that after you leave the Greater Porto area. Viana do Castelo is a worthwhile stop but cannot recall anything noteworthy after that.

 

[dugavski]

I did a combination of Coastal, Central and Variante espiritual.
The first day I started from the Porto cathedral, along the river to the ocean.
Then nice walk to Villa Cha.
Next day I joined Central from Vila do Conde to Rates.
After Pontevedra i took the Variante Espiritual.

This route combines the best of all variants and I would (and will) do it again.

 

[David Tallan]

I don't think I can beat Ken's summary of the differences. But I will chime in along the lines of dugavski above and say that it is possible to construct a mix. Many find that they prefer the walk out of Porto on the Senda Litoral along the river to the ocean and north along the seashore on the boardwalks, meeting the Coastal route by Vila do Conde. At that point you can switch over to the Central at Arcos or Rates or keep walking along the Coastal (or Senda Litoral). If you want to stick with the Coastal, you can also switch over at Caminha and head to Valença/Tui. Or, if you've been walking along the Central, you can switch to the Coastal from Valença/Tui. to Caminha and get a taste of the Coastal in Spain. Whatever suits your fancy.

 

[auburnfive]

We are doing something similar to what David has suggested, taking in the historic towns of Barcelos, Ponte de Lima and Valenca, and then walking along the Minho to the Spanish coast, to A Guarda, Oia, Baiona, then through the Variante at Pontevedra. Having done both coastal and central previously, this seems the best of both worlds.

 

[NicoO]

I followed some youtubers and from what i saw a switch from route to route seems to be rather easy (f.e. using public transport or walking over to one or the other.) . so you can walk both for a bit and than just keep on the route that you prefer. I am planing a mix: Coastal till Vila do Conde and then I'll move on to the central.

 

[Anthony Rocco]

Starting to plan for a Portuguese Camino in September 24 from Porto and cannot decide whether to walk the central or coastal. I'd appreciate comments and suggestions from fellow pilgrims that have walked either. Really interested in understanding the level of support ie accommodation options, places of interest. Thank you.

We started on the central and were so miserable after the first two days (it's a seemingly endless walk out of Porto on pavement) that we switched to the coastal. It was lovely. Because there were places on the central we absolutely wanted to visit, we switched back. But would then go back to the coastal. We ended up with a zigzag route and we felt like we got the best of both.

We truly loved our time in Valenca/Tui. We recommend staying in Valenca. The walled city is a jewel and it's cheaper. Hey...you're in Portugal. But Tui is so close, just over the bridge, and truly worth visiting.

We then had one of our most delightful days walking along the Minho River to the coast and the lovely city of A Guarda. We were the only peregrin(h)os. Whether on the coastal or central, it can get crowded, so it was nice to have a day to take in all the joys of the walking along a river without interruptions.

 

[Liddy]

I did a combination of Coastal, Central and Variante espiritual.
The first day I started from the Porto cathedral, along the river to the ocean.
Then nice walk to Villa Cha.
Next day I joined Central from Vila do Conde to Rates.
After Pontevedra i took the Variante Espiritual.

This route combines the best of all variants and I would (and will) do it again.

Sounds like a great combination. Do you recall the distance and how many days to complete?

 

[MarianneF]

Starting to plan for a Portuguese Camino in September 24 from Porto and cannot decide whether to walk the central or coastal. I'd appreciate comments and suggestions from fellow pilgrims that have walked either. Really interested in understanding the level of support ie accommodation options, places of interest. Thank you.

The choice is yours. I have only done the Central route veering off onto the Spiritual route (a must do). You are spoilt for choice as far as albergues go along this route. It was beautiful all along the route. If you are looking for less up and down walking the coastal route is the one. However you may have to deal with coastal wind and limited choice in accommodation. I am however planning to do the coastal next year. Enjoy your planning and do not follow the overnight stops as suggested by camino guides.

 

[jungleboy]

We were the only peregrin(h)os.

FYI, it’s still peregrinos (or peregrinas for an all-female group) in Portuguese, the same as in Castilian Spanish and Galego (i.e. peregrinhos is not a word).

 

[dugavski]

Sounds like a great combination. Do you recall the distance and how many days to complete?

300 kilometers, 12 days of walking

 

[worthober]

I did a combination of Coastal, Central and Variante espiritual.
The first day I started from the Porto cathedral, along the river to the ocean.
Then nice walk to Villa Cha.
Next day I joined Central from Vila do Conde to Rates.
After Pontevedra i took the Variante Espiritual.

This route combines the best of all variants and I would (and will) do it again.

Did you do this with a group or map your own path? Could you share your cities/stop? Thank you!!

 

[JabbaPapa]

I've walked the Central between Fátima/Tomar and Porto airport & from Redondela onwards, plus the Coastal between those points.

I'd say that for anyone with knee or other health problems, take the Coastal.

People wanting more "authenticity", maybe the Central ? And the Coastal is more expensive.

Otherwise I dunno, outside some hard personal needs, it really does just boil down to personal taste IMO, and de gustibus non est discutandum.

 

[dugavski]

Did you do this with a group or map your own path? Could you share your cities/stop? Thank you!!

This was my path:

1. Porto
2. Vila Chã
3. Rates
4. Barcelos
5. Ponte de Lima
6. Rubiães
7. Tui
8. Redondela
9. Pontevedra
10. A Armenteira
11. Vilanova de Arousa (boat to Pontecesures)
12. O Areal
13. Santiago de Compostela

​

 

[Ereyes13]

This was my path:

1. Porto
2. Vila Chã
3. Rates
4. Barcelos
5. Ponte de Lima
6. Rubiães
7. Tui
8. Redondela
9. Pontevedra
10. A Armenteira
11. Vilanova de Arousa (boat to Pontecesures)
12. O Areal
13. Santiago de Compostela

​

Hi, did you make reservations for either Albergues or private room during your Camino? I am also planning my first Camino this Sept and am worried about finding a place to stay the night without prior reservations. Thank you Buen Camino

 

[dugavski]

I made reservations for first two nights in Porto and for all places after Tui.