LIVE from the Camino SJPP - Santiago started 21st March

[legless]

Still scared, still can’t believe I’m doing this but I’m currently in Valcarlos where I am staying, I don’t fancy ending day one with the uphill section!

The weather is perfect, the Valcarlos route is just beautiful, so many birds and wildflowers and the lovely sound of the river. The off road path past Arneguy is closed due to trees fallen on path so the pilgrim office advise to walk via the road. It’s ok, not busy, wide, with good visibility. There was just one blind bend that didn’t feel too safe.

Now drinking cafe con leche until it’s an appropriate time for a beer.

Jo

 

[Feetzgerald]

Buen camino! Wish I was there too instead of working from home.

 

[mspath]

Thanks for your update. Glad to read that all is ok. Do buy supplies/snacks for tomorrow's walk later today. That way you can start at dawn

There are no shops nor potabile water after Valcarlos until Roncesvalles; be prepared.
Buen camino.

 

[alexwalker]

Now drinking cafe con leche until it’s an appropriate time for a beer.

Jo

Buen Camino! I will start in Pamplona on the 30th.

Get yourself a beer right away: Somewhere in the world, the time is now already 5 PM...

 

[Former member 49149]

Still scared, still can’t believe I’m doing this but I’m currently in Valcarlos where I am staying, I don’t fancy ending day one with the uphill section!

The weather is perfect, the Valcarlos route is just beautiful, so many birds and wildflowers and the lovely sound of the river. The off road path past Arneguy is closed due to trees fallen on path so the pilgrim office advise to walk via the road. It’s ok, not busy, wide, with good visibility. There was just one blind bend that didn’t feel too safe.

Now drinking cafe con leche until it’s an appropriate time for a beer.

Jo

Why legless? Too many beers? All things in moderation. Just make sure you balance salt intake with salts lost, and have a whale of time! I almost envy you.

 

[legless]

Why legless? Too many beers? All things in moderation. Just make sure you balance salt intake with salts lost, and have a whale of time! I almost envy you.

I think my ham intake will balance the salts!

 

[legless]

Valcarlos to Roncesvalles - I only cried twice! Oh man that’s a lot of uphill for a girl from the English fens. The woodland is beautiful though. I met two Brazilian ladies who don’t speak English, and I don’t speak Portuguese but I think we got the idea of our conversation over a beer waiting for the albergue to open.

Top tip for that stage - take more water than you think you’ll need, you’ll need it.

The weather is less good, but that makes sitting next to this fire with a glass of wine much nicer. I feel better here than at Valcarlos because it’s big enough that I can be with people if I want to be but be anonymous and on my own if I need to be.

Buen Camino you guys.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Valcarlos to Roncesvalles - I only cried twice! Oh man that’s a lot of uphill for a girl from the English fens. The woodland is beautiful though. I met two Brazilian ladies who don’t speak English, and I don’t speak Portuguese but I think we got the idea of our conversation over a beer waiting for the albergue to open.

Top tip for that stage - take more water than you think you’ll need, you’ll need it.

The weather is less good, but that makes sitting next to this fire with a glass of wine much nicer. I feel better here than at Valcarlos because it’s big enough that I can be with people if I want to be but be anonymous and on my own if I need to be.

Buen Camino you guys.

More water than you think...more than 2 quarts? I'll be about a week behind you. Final practice walks this week. Thank you for your live postings!

 

[legless]

More water than you think...more than 2 quarts? I'll be about a week behind you. Final practice walks this week. Thank you for your live postings!

Well I took what I’d normally take for a day hike and would have preferred maybe 0.5 litres more. I didn’t run out but would definitely have liked to have drunk more.

 

[Elsiecamino]

Valcarlos to Roncesvalles - I only cried twice! Oh man that’s a lot of uphill for a girl from the English fens. The woodland is beautiful though. I met two Brazilian ladies who don’t speak English, and I don’t speak Portuguese but I think we got the idea of our conversation over a beer waiting for the albergue to open.

Top tip for that stage - take more water than you think you’ll need, you’ll need it.

The weather is less good, but that makes sitting next to this fire with a glass of wine much nicer. I feel better here than at Valcarlos because it’s big enough that I can be with people if I want to be but be anonymous and on my own if I need to be.

Buen Camino you guys.

Thank you for the updates. Keep them coming, we should be about 2 weeks behind you.

 

[cardifflad52]

Thank you for the updates. Keep them coming, we should be about 2 weeks behind you.

Thank you for that I am due to start this coming Saturday , all packed and eager to get to SJPP

 

[Jenni999]

Still scared, still can’t believe I’m doing this but I’m currently in Valcarlos where I am staying, I don’t fancy ending day one with the uphill section!

The weather is perfect, the Valcarlos route is just beautiful, so many birds and wildflowers and the lovely sound of the river. The off road path past Arneguy is closed due to trees fallen on path so the pilgrim office advise to walk via the road. It’s ok, not busy, wide, with good visibility. There was just one blind bend that didn’t feel too safe.

Now drinking cafe con leche until it’s an appropriate time for a beer.

Jo

If you don't mind my asking - what are you wearing? What clothes are comfortable for walking in during the day, what are you wearing at night when you go out for dinner/tapas? I am just about to pack and would love some help deciding what to include.

 

[Terrri]

Flying out late on March 28 and will start walking from Burgos on March 30 or 31st. Until then I will enjoy reading about your experience. Thanks for sharing!

 

[legless]

If you don't mind my asking - what are you wearing? What clothes are comfortable for walking in during the day, what are you wearing at night when you go out for dinner/tapas? I am just about to pack and would love some help deciding what to include.

I’m wearing hiking trousers and either a shirt or t shirt during the day with a light fleece, in the evenings I have been putting in next days clothes to go out with a down jacket instead of fleece and I’m sleeping in leggings d as bd a t-shirt that I’m happy hanging out in after shower if I’m not going out.

 

[legless]

Roncesvalles to zubiri was pretty much the perfect hike. Varied terrain and beautiful views with refreshments available. It was very cold to start and I was glad of my gloves for a couple of hours. I had breakfast at Casa Sabina before I left which was right for me.

After a couple of hours it was glorious sunshine and the gloves were off and the factor 50 on. I still got a bit of sunburn in my arm though.

I stopped for lunch in the place beginning with B, my first bocadillo - the birds did well with the crumbs in the wind!

 

[legless]

The descent into zubiti is not something I’d want to do in the wet, I’ve never come across a path that’s both rutted to the extreme and smooth. I was glad to get down.

Stayed at albergue Zaldiko, comfortable and warm, kitchen open and communal areas. The bar in town was open for drinks and food in the afternoon but we had to wslk almost out of town for dinner.

 

[legless]

Nothing was open between zubiti and Trinidad de arre today, the bar in zubiri does breakfast from 7am, if I’d known I wouldn’t get a coffee for 11 miles id have taken that option! I saw 7 species of butterfly and there were orchids.

Tonight in Jesus y Maria albergue, €11, the washing machines are free and there are dryers. I ran into some people I knew from earlier places and we went and had pinxos. Amazing experience then to the cathedral for the rosary. I am now in my first top bunk and a little bit drunk. Wish me luck!

 

[alexwalker]

The descent into zubiti is not something I’d want to do in the wet, I’ve never come across a path that’s both rutted to the extreme and smooth. I was glad to get down.

One forum member broke his wrist there some days ago....

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/palmah-on-the-camino-franc%C3%A9s.73675/#post-1010434

 

[Scott Sweeney]

More water than you think...more than 2 quarts? I'll be about a week behind you. Final practice walks this week. Thank you for your live postings!

We each start each day with two liters of water in our packs. It adds another four pounds but you do need it.

 

[Eve Alexandra]

We each start each day with two liters of water in our packs. It adds another four pounds but you do need it.

Yeah I tend to be a 2 liter carry person as well. I was just wondering if I needed more than that.

 

[Glenshiro]

I once ran out of water on a baking hot July day on top of the South Downs between Brighton and Alfriston. Within 15 minutes I was looking enviously at the cattle troughs and wondering whether I could strain the scummy water through a sock. My tongue stuck to the roof of my mouth and I couldn't speak. Ever since, I have carried a 2 L bladder in my rucksack, topping it up whenever I could on really hot days. On my second crossing of the Napoleon route, on a gloriously hot day, it ran out - just as I reached my hotel in Burguete.

 

[legless]

People should talk more about the descent from Alto de Perdon. It’s loose cobbles, a real ankle breaker. Please take care.

There was nothing open until I’ve forgotten the name but the place where you’d turn off for Eunate.

I saw short-toed eagles and griffon vultures today. I’m staying at albergue jakue in puente la Reine but they haven’t opened the albergue and I’m in a shared room in the hotel with 2 other women for the same price .€13. Sheets and a shower that isn’t on a timer!!! The first hostel going into town is open with beds at €7

 

[legless]

The descent

 

[Eve Alexandra]

Just in case no one has warned you yet, the descent into El Acebo is also an ankle twister.

 

[alexwalker]

In case you are afraid, take the alongside road route down to El Acebo. No Problem

 

[peregrina2000]

People should talk more about the descent from Alto de Perdon.

On my very first Camino, in 2000, heading down from the sculpture, my friend and I were met by a guy with his pants down. We ran down that rocky path, and had huge blisters by the time we arrived in Puente la Reina. My guess is that that stretch has become heavily traveled enough that the perverts have moved to another spot.

This was my first camino, and I was not aware enough to know I should report it. I have reported the following six or seven incidents and hope that it has contributed to the enhanced presence of police, and a more general attitude that takes these issues seriously, on the caminos.

 

[Anamiri]

Just in case no one has warned you yet, the descent into El Acebo is also an ankle twister.

And in fact all the way to Molineseca

 

[trecile]

What clothes are comfortable for walking in during the day, what are you wearing at night when you go out for dinner/tapas?

In general, pilgrims wear the same clothing that they wear to walk in.

 

[Anamiri]

In general, pilgrims wear the same clothing that they wear to walk in.

Yep, and when people see my photos they say " you're always wearing the same things"
Yes I say, yes I am.

 

[Terrri]

How are the albergues for heat and blankets?

Still finalizing sleeping liners. Not sure if they are providing blankets because of covid.

We ate breakfast on the bench in your picture in 2016, after walking up to enjoy sunrise on top of the Alto del Perdon.

 

[legless]

How are the albergues for heat and blankets?

Still finalizing sleeping liners. Not sure if they are providing blankets because of covid.

We ate breakfast on the bench in your picture in 2016, after walking up to enjoy sunrise on top of the Alto del Perdon.

All albergues so far have been very warm and cosy and there have been blankets at most, I think you could have hired them at those without. I like having a thin sleeping bag but you’d probably be ok with a liner.

 

[Terrri]

All albergues so far have been very warm and cosy and there have been blankets at most, I think you could have hired them at those without. I like having a thin sleeping bag but you’d probably be ok with a liner.

That is great to hear! I made up a half sheet, half down liner to be on the safe side without being too heavy. We should be starting from Burgos on March 31, but coming from a place that still has snow on the hills visible from our windows. Hard not to overpack for warmth.

 

[legless]

Well this was fun! Belorado to St Juan de Ortega today.

Still paying €1.10-1.80 for wine, €3.40 for coffee and a bocadillo. Albergues €11-15.

 

[Former member 49149]

Fun? You are such a joker! Well done, dear @legless! I am not 100% warm here, because we have not put on the heating since early March, but boy, I admire you and wish you a continuing buen camino.

 

[Terrri]

In Hontanas now. We also had snow today but not that much. Hope you're not too cold.

 

[Terrri]

Are you still walking?
The sun is out, the wind has died down, but the mornings are still frosty. In Calzadilla.

 

[legless]

Are you still walking?
The sun is out, the wind has died down, but the mornings are still frosty. In Calzadilla.

Yes I’m still walking. Hopefully this morning was the last of the bitterly cold mornings. Currently having a rest by the church in Villarmentaro de Campos. Might even remove a layer of clothing!

 

[Terrri]

Hope you're still walking and enjoying the nicer weather.
I possibly have tendonitis in my knee and have been immobile for a couple of days. Who knew walking too much on flat ground could cause knee problems.

 

[legless]

Hope you're still walking and enjoying the nicer weather.
I possibly have tendonitis in my knee and have been immobile for a couple of days. Who knew walking too much on flat ground could cause knee problems.

Oh no the flat is the worst. Heading into Leon today, just 7.5 miles then sightseeing. I hope you’re on the move soon.