February Start: SJPP, Roncesvalles, or Pamplona?

[PilgrimSusanne]

Hello there. I'm Susanne, a church minister on sabbatical, and I'm planning my first camino. I'd appreciate your advice, especially from folks who have walked the Valcarlos Route in winter.

I arrive in Madrid on February 14. Since the Napoleon Route is closed (and also no bus to SJPP), I followed Stephan the Painter's counsel, and I bought tix to get to SJPP via Bayonne.

But . . . in another thread on the Forum some experienced folks advised me just to start in Roncesvalles or Pamplona, not to bother with the mountains in February. It might be overcast then, so no view. Plus the Valcarlos Route is not without risk and pain. Is trekking the Valcarlos in February worthwhile? Please share your thoughts.

 

[nycwalking]

I walked Valcarlos route February 2014.

It’s pleasant path.

There was snow and one fallen tree I had to step over. Otherwise, a very nice day.

If the path gets a bit difficult walk along the highway.

Have a splendid time.

Buen camino.

 

[J Willhaus]

I think it is entirely up to you where to start. Nothing and yet everything magical about any of these places. At Roncesvalles there may be a pilgrim mass (not sure about winter) if that interests you and there is a daily bus to Roncesvalles from Pamplona. It does not run on Sundays. I attached the last year's schedule which is probably similar and you can probably find it online under the bus company Artieda Autocares

I have not walked through Valcarlos from SJPDP, but there are many who do and I think it will depend on how much snow there is on whether it would be dangerous. You might not know that until shortly before/after you arrive.

Pamplona is also a good place to start. It is a bigger city than the others (which I don't love), but you can source a Spanish sim card there if you need one and there are a variety of options of places to stay from albergue bunk bed to upscale hotels.

Can you just remain flexible and decide once you arrive or do you need to have certainty? Some people are more comfortable with flexibility and others with certainty. A long Camino will help you know for sure by the end in either case. In the winter as long as you are avoiding holidays, you're likely to find a bed in any of these places without a prior booking.

 

[Tincatinker]

Is trekking the Valcarlos in February worthwhile?

I've only ever walked via Valcarlos. I have a great affection for that little Basque town and the way in which it gentles me into Camino. I've not walked it as early in the year as February and the Puerto de Ibañeta can be rough in rough weather even if you stick to the road. I had heavy snow one April and was grateful to get to Burguete.

If you already have your tickets go with your original plan.

If you choose to re-jig and start in Pamplona, or even get the bus from Pamplona to Roncesvalles and walk from there, all will be well.

I note that this is your "first" Camino. You have a future of possible starting points - take a look at the route from Cadiz and plan accordingly

 

[Bradypus]

I walked from SJPDP over the Valcarlos route on 2 January last year. It was overcast part of the way and views were sometimes limited. But that could also be true on the Route Napoleon in July on occasion. I certainly enjoyed my walk regardless. There are no guarantees of good weather at any time. Is the Valcarlos route without risk or pain? - of course not. No Camino is without risk and relatively few will be without at least a little discomfort if not actual pain. Taking chances is part of the experience.

 

[Antnix1]

Hi op.
I think it would be nice to start the french camino in France and sjpdp is a nice town with a good pilgrims office. But if it causes you difficulty or expense getting there, start in Roncesvalles.
I didn't do the Valcarlos route so don't have an opinion on it.

 

[David Tallan]

I agree entirely with J WIllhaus in post #3, it is entirely up to you. They are all good places to start. I admit I have a bit of affection for Roncevalles because that is where, for various reasons, I have started my past Caminos Frances. But many find great value in the experience of crossing the Pyrenees from France, including by the Valcarlos route.

In general, I would always advise (a) walking as far as you have time to walk and (b) giving yourself more time than you think you will possibly need for the distance you intend to walk, so you don't find any unplanned delays forcing you into a race to Santiago. Hey, I never claimed to be self-consistent!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Hello Susanne. We're practically neighbors. I sent you a PM (Private Message) to possibly arrange a walk and talk but I'm reporting that here so you will know about it (since you're new here). Click on the envelope icon up at the top when you see a red flag there.

 

[trecile]

I would wait until I arrive and check the weather in SJPdP and Roncesvalles.

 

[henrythedog]

If you were Spanish you would consider Roncesvalles to be the starting point of the Camino Frances. Any start point is arbitrary.

I’ve walked the Frances now five or six times, I’d have to check. (Edit: I did check. Eight) I started from St Jean twice, once by each recognised route. Thereafter I’ve started in Pamplona or - by taking a short taxi ride from there - Zubiri.

The first two days don’t ‘cross’ the Pyrenees so much as go around the edge.

 

[Bradypus]

If you were Spanish you would consider Roncesvalles to be the starting point of the Camino Frances.

Much less true than it used to be. Although numbers starting from SJPDP have been fairly steady over the past few years - Covid-excepted - the numbers who choose Roncesvalles as their starting point have plunged over the past 20 years. Now about 1/3 of the numbers at the peak of its popularity and a much smaller percentage of pilgrims overall than in the past. Spanish pilgrims have mostly followed the trend for shorter walks and now start closer to Santiago.

 

[henrythedog]

Much less true than it used to be. Although numbers starting from SJPDP have been fairly steady over the past few years - Covid-excepted - the numbers who choose Roncesvalles as their starting point have plunged over the past 20 years. Now about 1/3 of the numbers at the peak of its popularity and a much smaller percentage of pilgrims overall than in the past. Spanish pilgrims have mostly followed the trend for shorter walks and now start closer to Santiago.

Poor wording on my part.

The Spanish might consider Roncesvalles to be the ‘official’ start of the Frances, but might choose not to start from there.

 

[Shriram]

Hello there. I'm Susanne, a church minister on sabbatical, and I'm planning my first camino. I'd appreciate your advice, especially from folks who have walked the Valcarlos Route in winter.

I arrive in Madrid on February 14. Since the Napoleon Route is closed (and also no bus to SJPP), I followed Stephan the Painter's counsel, and I bought tix to get to SJPP via Bayonne.

But . . . in another thread on the Forum some experienced folks advised me just to start in Roncesvalles or Pamplona, not to bother with the mountains in February. It might be overcast then, so no view. Plus the Valcarlos Route is not without risk and pain. Is trekking the Valcarlos in February worthwhile? Please share your thoughts.

Hi,
I arrive in Madrid one day before you for my first camino and considering the length of the SJPP to Roncesvalles stage coupled with winter weather I have decided to start in Roncesvalles.
Hope that works.

 

[David Tallan]

Hi,
I arrive in Madrid one day before you for my first camino and considering the length of the SJPP to Roncesvalles stage coupled with winter weather I have decided to start in Roncesvalles.
Hope that works.

Starting in Roncesvalles worked for me.

 

[Stephan the Painter]

Hello there. I'm Susanne, a church minister on sabbatical, and I'm planning my first camino. I'd appreciate your advice, especially from folks who have walked the Valcarlos Route in winter.

I arrive in Madrid on February 14. Since the Napoleon Route is closed (and also no bus to SJPP), I followed Stephan the Painter's counsel, and I bought tix to get to SJPP via Bayonne.

But . . . in another thread on the Forum some experienced folks advised me just to start in Roncesvalles or Pamplona, not to bother with the mountains in February. It might be overcast then, so no view. Plus the Valcarlos Route is not without risk and pain. Is trekking the Valcarlos in February worthwhile? Please share your thoughts.

I see you've gotten any good answers to your query, but I'll chime in.

I think the only reason to start in SJPP is if you have it in your mind that that's the "correct" place to start.

I ended up starting from Pamplona in early April 2022, because there was a snowstorm in the Pyrenees. There was snow on the way from SJPP to past Zubiri.

But every year is different. That said, I'm planning to go back and start in SJPP this year because for whatever silly reason I have it in my mind as the "correct" place to start.

But the big advantage of starting in Pamplona or even Roncevalles is that logistically it's just a lot easier to get there if you're already in Spain. Buen Camino!

 

[David Tallan]

But every year is different. That said, I'm planning to go back and start in SJPP this year because for whatever silly reason I have it in my mind as the "correct" place to start.

You could consider starting in Ostabat instead. It is about 20 km further away from Santiago than SJPP is. According to my guide by Don Elias, it is where the routes from Paris, Vezelay and Le Puy merge and thus might be considered the start of the Camino Frances. It'll give you a day of walking to warm up for the Pyrenees climb and allow you to be smug in front of all the folks who start at SJPP. ;-)

 

[Gianni3333]

Hello there. I'm Susanne, a church minister on sabbatical, and I'm planning my first camino. I'd appreciate your advice, especially from folks who have walked the Valcarlos Route in winter.

I arrive in Madrid on February 14. Since the Napoleon Route is closed (and also no bus to SJPP), I followed Stephan the Painter's counsel, and I bought tix to get to SJPP via Bayonne.

But . . . in another thread on the Forum some experienced folks advised me just to start in Roncesvalles or Pamplona, not to bother with the mountains in February. It might be overcast then, so no view. Plus the Valcarlos Route is not without risk and pain. Is trekking the Valcarlos in February worthwhile? Please share your thoughts.

Hi Susanne,

I’ve completed 5 Camino’s (starting my 6th on the 25th) I’ve always walked this time of year as it works best with my schedule and I don’t like hordes of people. Every time I’ve started in SJPP and in the winter you have to walk the Valcarlos route. It’s mainly on the road but it’s really pretty. I would not miss it. You can break it up into two days. SJPP to Valcarlos then Valcarlos to Roncesvalles. Hope this helps.


Buen Camino!

 

[PilgrimSusanne]

Hi Susanne,

I’ve completed 5 Camino’s (starting my 6th on the 25th) I’ve always walked this time of year as it works best with my schedule and I don’t like hordes of people. Every time I’ve started in SJPP and in the winter you have to walk the Valcarlos route. It’s mainly on the road but it’s really pretty. I would not miss it. You can break it up into two days. SJPP to Valcarlos then Valcarlos to Roncesvalles. Hope this helps.


Buen Camino!

Gianni,
Thanks so much for your reply!
I had already decided to stick with my SJPP start on Feb 16 (and breaking the stage in two as you suggest), but your message boosts my confidence with that decision. I'm happy to hear that the route is very pretty, so pretty that you wanted to repeat it!
Thank you for sharing your advice. I will think of you as I walk.
Best! Buen Camino!

 

[Jarrad]

If the weather is agreeable, then I personally would shoot for SJPdP, but you can't go wrong with Roncevalles either. SJPdP elling points for me are that it's a charming village with a lot of history that is tangible and that it has unique character. Roncevalles seems built to receive weary travelers and there's no shortage of history and Camino energy. But my vote would be, conditions permitting, SJPdP.