Alan Pearce
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino Invierno October 2022
I have posted some reports of my walk on the "Live from the camino " section of the forum, starting from when I left Salamanca, but as I am well and truly back home in Australia, I will continue the story here.
From Lubian to A Gudina --- There had not been much rain overnight so Mattheus my Dutch friend and I kept to the marked trail rather than go on the road. The climb up out of the valley on rough and muddy tracks which often carried running water was long and arduous, and I would place it number 1 on my list of strenuous climbs on the entire camino. Once over the top of the ridge the walking became much easier, and we arrived in Laza about 1 PM. We could not find a bar on the way where we could have CCL so that was the first stop in town. My guide said the Protection Civil office where you could ask about the albergue was on the right hand side as you entered the town. It was once but is not there any more. To get to the albergue, follow the main road into town. Turn right opposite the Bar Peregrino which is on your left. Go under the railway bridge and turn right again. Ring the phone number on the door and the police will come and open it. The hospitalero came at 3 PM and booked in those who were present at the time, then left and did not return until 8PM. We had bocadillos at the Bar Peregrino for dinner.
From A Gudina to Laza ---- We had a good desayuno at the Bar Peregrino which opens at the very early hour [ for Spain ] of 6.30AM. We walked nearly all day on bitumen but the roads were totally devoid of traffic. There was a heavy mist that did not lift until 9.30, and after that there were some great views on offer. We stopped at Campobecerros after 20 km and had a HUGE bowl of coffee at a bar, and we got some biscuits thrown in as well. Most of the villages we walked through were semi- or totally deserted. We paused for a rest at As Eiras, where there is a perfect covered picnic spot at the end of the village. We arrived in Laza about 2.30 and found the Protection Civil clerk waiting outside her office for peregrinos to turn up. She was affable and efficient but some other pilgrims who arrived later said she was rude and abrupt towards tham. I personally think they arrived at a time when she was busy with police business and she had to rush their registration. We were given a key to the albergue and another key for our room. Each room held 4 double bunks and there were 4 rooms plus a room for disabled people. We had dinner that night at Bar Picota. It was a 2 plate meal with only 2 choices in each course but it was good food, with copious amounts of wine. We ate upstairs in the kitchen and watched the meal being prepared, and when we had all eaten the staff sat down and ate the same meal, which is surely a recommendation. That night was our first encounter with a very quiet Frenchman who got up each morning at 5.30 and then went and sat in the kitchen until i 6.45 when it was light enough to leave. You do have to wonder sometimes.
More later
Alan
Be brave. Life is joyous.
From Lubian to A Gudina --- There had not been much rain overnight so Mattheus my Dutch friend and I kept to the marked trail rather than go on the road. The climb up out of the valley on rough and muddy tracks which often carried running water was long and arduous, and I would place it number 1 on my list of strenuous climbs on the entire camino. Once over the top of the ridge the walking became much easier, and we arrived in Laza about 1 PM. We could not find a bar on the way where we could have CCL so that was the first stop in town. My guide said the Protection Civil office where you could ask about the albergue was on the right hand side as you entered the town. It was once but is not there any more. To get to the albergue, follow the main road into town. Turn right opposite the Bar Peregrino which is on your left. Go under the railway bridge and turn right again. Ring the phone number on the door and the police will come and open it. The hospitalero came at 3 PM and booked in those who were present at the time, then left and did not return until 8PM. We had bocadillos at the Bar Peregrino for dinner.
From A Gudina to Laza ---- We had a good desayuno at the Bar Peregrino which opens at the very early hour [ for Spain ] of 6.30AM. We walked nearly all day on bitumen but the roads were totally devoid of traffic. There was a heavy mist that did not lift until 9.30, and after that there were some great views on offer. We stopped at Campobecerros after 20 km and had a HUGE bowl of coffee at a bar, and we got some biscuits thrown in as well. Most of the villages we walked through were semi- or totally deserted. We paused for a rest at As Eiras, where there is a perfect covered picnic spot at the end of the village. We arrived in Laza about 2.30 and found the Protection Civil clerk waiting outside her office for peregrinos to turn up. She was affable and efficient but some other pilgrims who arrived later said she was rude and abrupt towards tham. I personally think they arrived at a time when she was busy with police business and she had to rush their registration. We were given a key to the albergue and another key for our room. Each room held 4 double bunks and there were 4 rooms plus a room for disabled people. We had dinner that night at Bar Picota. It was a 2 plate meal with only 2 choices in each course but it was good food, with copious amounts of wine. We ate upstairs in the kitchen and watched the meal being prepared, and when we had all eaten the staff sat down and ate the same meal, which is surely a recommendation. That night was our first encounter with a very quiet Frenchman who got up each morning at 5.30 and then went and sat in the kitchen until i 6.45 when it was light enough to leave. You do have to wonder sometimes.
More later
Alan
Be brave. Life is joyous.