Stages from Oloron-Sainte-Marie

[trecile]

I've been working on stages from Oloron-Sainte-Marie, and have come up with this plan.
I'm hoping that those experienced with this route can chime in on whether these stages sound reasonable, or suggestions for better stages. Maybe a way to cut the longer stages down to less than 25 km?

Oloron-Sainte-Marie - Sarrance	23 km
Sarrance - Urdos	27 km
Urdos - Canfranc	24 km
Canfranc - Jaca	20 km
Jaca - Santa Cilia (via San Juan de la Peña)	29 km
Santa Cilia - Artieda	28.4 km
Artieda - Undués de Lerda	21.4 km
Undués de Lerda - Lumbier	22 km
Lumbier - Monreal	19.2 km
Monreal - Muruzábal	26 km

 

[andycohn]

I've been working on stages from Oloron-Sainte-Marie, and have come up with this plan.
I'm hoping that those experienced with this route can chime in on whether these stages sound reasonable, or suggestions for better stages. Maybe a way to cut the longer stages down to less than 25 km?

Oloron-Sainte-Marie - Sarrance	23 km
Sarrance - Urdos	27 km
Urdos - Canfranc	24 km
Canfranc - Jaca	20 km
Jaca - Santa Cilia (via San Juan de la Peña)	29 km
Santa Cilia - Artieda	28.4 km
Artieda - Undués de Lerda	21.4 km
Undués de Lerda - Lumbier	22 km
Lumbier - Monreal	19.2 km
Monreal - Muruzábal	26 km

Try this, which is pretty much what we did (except we didn't go to Lumbier). Just a few variations on your plan, but breaks up the longer stages:

OSM - Sarrance - 23

Sarrance - Accous - 12

Accous- Urdos - 15 (as I mentioned elsewhere, with all the ongoing road construction, you might be best off taking the bus as soon as you arrive in Accous and skipping ahead to Urdos)

Urdos - Somport - 13

Somport - Canfranc Pueblo - 11. (As mentioned elsewhere, if albergue is closed at Somport and you don't want to walk all the way down to Canfranc, you could bus or taxi down from the pass, then take the bus up the next morning and do the downhill leg separately. The downhill leg is steep and often rocky, so I wouldn't underestimate its difficulty, especially after the arduous climb to the pass).

Canfranc Pueblo - Jaca - 20

Jaca to monastery by taxi (or bus, if available), then walk down to Santa Cruz de la Ceros. If you're going to detour to the monastery, which we loved, it doesn't make much sense to give yourself a very arduous 29 kilometer day, and therefore have no time to visit it. But if you're into walking e.f.i., then I'd suggest you give yourself 2 nights in Santa Celia or Santa Cruz.

Santa Cruz - Arres - 17.

Arres - Artieda -- 18

Artieda - Undues de Lerda -- 21

Undues - Lumbier -- 22

Lumbier - Monreal - 19

Monreal - Tiebas -- 13

Tiebas - Puente la Reina -- 17 (never heard of Muruzabel, and as far as I know, Tiebas is the only stopping place between Monreal and Obanos, where you hit the Frances).

 

[dick bird]

Jaca - Santa Cilia (via San Juan de la Peña)	29 km
Santa Cilia - Artieda	28.4 km
Artieda - Undués de Lerda	21.4 km

This wouldn´t be my choice. You´ve given yourself a massive haul from Jaca to Santa Cilia, gruelling in itself, and this involves spending the time you need in what is one of the greatest Romanesque gems in Spain. I don´t think Laurie would be impressed. You have also deprived yourself of a stay in Arrés, an iconic donativo albergue. You have also skipped Sanguësa, a lovely little town, all this in favour or Undués and Artieda, neither of which has much to recommend them.

I would break this up a little. Either visit San Juan de la Peña on a day trip from Jaca (stay two nights, it´s a nice town) and walk from Jaca to Arres or, if you´re not that interested, skip it and walk direct from Jaca to Arres.
Then Arres to Ruesta;
Ruesta to Sanguësa;
Sanguësa then Lumbier Gorge + stay a night in Lumbier;
Lumbier to Monreal.

Depending on how far you want to walk, your last day could be from Monreal to Puente la Reina. The Tiebas albergue has good reviews but there is not much else there. Don´t miss the Ermita de Santa Maria Eunate.

Incidentally, Gronze says the pilgrim albergue in Sanguësa is closed temporarily. Does anyone know why?

 

[mspath]

Do not miss San Juan de la Pena.

As an architectural historian it was my professional privilege/ personal pleasure to visit many special places in this world, but the old monastery at San Juan de la Pena belongs in that unique category of sublime timeless perfection.
....Please do not rush. The site is unforgettable. Carpe diem!

 

[Anniesantiago]

It would be a shame to miss Arres.
One of my favorites along that route, along with Ruesta.

 

[naplesdon]

The climb up the hill to San Juan de la Pena is a challenge. There was no availability of taxis or buses when I went there in 2017. To enter the place you needed to go to the information center at the top of the hill and take a guided tour bus back down to gain entry. I would definitely find transport from Jaca to get there and then make a decision to walk on from there to Santa Cilia after your visit. I totally agree with the comments about Arres. One other thing I learned doing that route was the lack of ATM's along the way after Jaca.

 

[dick bird]

Monreal - Muruzábal

Muruzábal is off the camino. You might as well stay in Óbanos, which as at least on the camino.

 

[Vacajoe]

Your plan misses some of the iconic elements of the Aragon route. If you have the time, I’d add in a few extra steps as detailed below (my edits are in CAPITALS). Pueblo, Arres, and Ruesta are some very special albergues on the route that should not be missed. Also, SJdP deserves more than a passing glance as does the castle in Javier.

Oloron-Sainte-Marie - Sarrance
Sarrance - Urdos
Urdos - Canfranc PUEBLO
Canfranc PUEBLO - Jaca
Jaca - Santa CRUZ SANTA CRUZ - SANTA CILIA (via SJdP)
Santa Cilia - ARRES
Artieda - RUESTA
RUESTA - SANGUESA (via Javier) SANGUESA - Lumbier
Lumbier - Monreal
Monreal - TIEBAS TIEBAS - PUENTE LA REINA

 

[Vacajoe]

Incidentally, Gronze says the pilgrim albergue in Sanguësa is closed temporarily. Does anyone know why?

I believe it is seasonal.

 

[J Willhaus]

If you skip Arres, be sure to take a lot of extra water. Also follow the bike route after Puente de Reina de Jaca to avoid the very steep climb up to Arres and back down again. This will save a few kms. There are no towns, no fountains, no infrastructure, between Puenta la Reina de Jaca and Artieda. You can see a couple of little towns off the Camino, but there's no services.

 

[J Willhaus]

I am also going to put out there that many of our pilgrims last summer were disappointed in Santa Cilia. They said it wasn't very clean. The hospitalera closed the kitchen, so they had to eat at her restaurant, and she didn't bother to stamp some of their credentials. We did not stay there, so that is strictly secondhand info.

 

[dick bird]

I believe it is seasonal.

That´s a relief. I just hope it´s open by May because we´re going to be in Sanguësa.

 

[peregrina2000]

I think that even if you aren’t going to spend much time in San Juan de la Peña, some forum members have commented that the route from Jaca to San Juan is not a good one. See this thread. The commentary on this wikiloc track (from 2022) agrees with that assessment.

Gronze says: (my translation) It goes on mountain paths with rocky segments, uneven terrain and sharp descents. It’s not complicated and the signage is good, but it is recommended for pilgrims with experience with this type of camino. In addition, we strongly recommend that you not go alone.

LT and I came at San Juan from the “back side,” meaning that we joined the Aragonés from the Catalán in San Juan de la Peña. We then went down to Santa Cilia and then got a ride up to Somport to start the Aragonés from the Spanish border. So when we got to Jaca, since we had already visited San Juan, we just continued on to Arrés.

If you don’t want to take a cab/bus up to San Juan, and if you are not inclined to try that trail through Atares, I think I would take the road to Santa Cruz de la Serós (drop off pack) and then join the trail up to San Juan. You have to come back down the same way. Gronze shows that option, and the Jaca - Santa Cruz - San Juan - Santa Cruz route is about 30. Santa Cruz de la Serós has nice accommodation and a few nice churches! Then the next day, Santa Cruz to Arrés (short day, 16), because I agree with those who say it would be a shame to miss Arrés.

If I ever am lucky enough to walk this route again, I would do two things differently than my first Aragonés - one would be the Foz de Lumbier, which it looks like you are going to walk, and the other would be to cross to the other side of the reservoir to stay at Monasterio de Leyre. It is an incredible place to visit and I would love to walk in instead of being in a car! The romanesque church is very special, the crypt below is also ancient but very plain and simple, and I remember sitting and listening to evening chants. Great way to end the day. I think @alansykes did this a few years ago.

 

[naplesdon]

I have visited Leyre by car and totally agree with Laurie, but the north side of the lake is a long trek without many facilities.

 

[lt56ny]

I've been working on stages from Oloron-Sainte-Marie, and have come up with this plan.
I'm hoping that those experienced with this route can chime in on whether these stages sound reasonable, or suggestions for better stages. Maybe a way to cut the longer stages down to less than 25 km?

Oloron-Sainte-Marie - Sarrance	23 km
Sarrance - Urdos	27 km
Urdos - Canfranc	24 km
Canfranc - Jaca	20 km
Jaca - Santa Cilia (via San Juan de la Peña)	29 km
Santa Cilia - Artieda	28.4 km
Artieda - Undués de Lerda	21.4 km
Undués de Lerda - Lumbier	22 km
Lumbier - Monreal	19.2 km
Monreal - Muruzábal	26 km

You´ve given yourself a massive haul from Jaca to Santa Cilia, gruelling in itself, and this involves spending the time you need in what is one of the greatest Romanesque gems in Spain.

I think that even if you aren’t going to spend much time in San Juan de la Peña, some forum members have commented that the route from Jaca to San Juan is not a good one.

I strongly agree with both Dick and Laurie. As I just mentioned in an earlier post, I watched a video before my first Aragones by I think it was "Nadine Walks". She can walk long distances and she said that the way up to the monastery was really tough and you had to be really careful. She didn't recommend doing it. I didn't go there on my first Aragones because when I got to Jaca there was a big local festival. I went to the tourist office for information. They told me that there would be no buses going up to the monastery the next day because of the festival. She suggested that I should ask other pilgrims in the municipal if they wanted to split a cab as she said it would be at least 50 Euros minimum to get up there on a festival day. But I was the only person there. I am going again this October and will go to the tourist office again this year to get the schedule and where the bus picks me up. I will probably just stay in Santa Cilia that night at the albergue. It is a really wonderful camino. Why kill yourself and not be able to enjoy the walk and the monastery. Some of the best municipal albergues and donativos i have ever stayed at are on the Aragones. Buen Camino

 

[J Willhaus]

Yes, many things to see in this area that may be best visited by car at some point (if you have time). You can walk to the castle at Javier from this Camino route (detour between Undues and Sanguesa) and you can walk to the Monastery at Leyre from Yesa (also a detour from the regular route). Sos del Rey Catholico is really a wonderful separate day trip to the south of Sanguesa as well. The San Juan de la Pena monasteries are also a "don't miss". Although Arres is small, it has some wonderful history. The town is the site of a castle/hunting lodge (no longer there) for the royal family and the adjacent church can be visited in the evening when you stay at the albergue or the Casa Rural. There is a medieval tower you also visit and it is cool to look out the arrow slits and imagine that you are watching for invaders from the nearby kingdom of Navarre (or Moors from the south). I imagine the watchers from the tower in Arres (Aragon) watching the tower in Ruesta (Navarre) and viceversa.

 

[trecile]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. The stages that I came up with for my initial planning - mostly to know how many days I need to budget for this trip. I really appreciate all of the first hand knowledge and information!

never heard of Muruzabel, and as far as I know, Tiebas is the only stopping place between Monreal and Obanos

It's listed on both the Buen Camino and Wise Pilgrim apps, though it's a bit of a backtrack:



I've stayed in Óbanos and Puente la Reina before, so I though that I'd try someplace a little different.

There are a few places to stay there:

Muruzabal accommodation | CaminoSleeps.com

Looking for an albergue in Muruzabal? View 3 properties in relation to the Camino Frances walking route.

www.caminosleeps.com

 

[Flog]

I think your stages look OK, as long as you feel you have the stamina to do Jaca- San Juan- Santa Cilia. As others have mentioned, it's not the easiest stage. For a first time, though, I would recommend Arres, it's justifiably well regarded. For myself, I'll consider continuing on to Artieda as I haven't stayed there before, and I'll probably continue past Ruesta too. I want to try some new places along the way..

 

[dick bird]

I think the general consensus is: make sure you have ample time to spend at San Juan de la Peña, stay at Arrés, don´t miss the Foz de Lumbier, don´t overdo it. And I would add, stay in Sanguësa if you can. The French stages look ideal, by the way. Don´t be ashamed to walk up the road to Somport, the GR route is a slippery little footpath halfway up the hillside and the historical route is probably where the road goes anyway. Enjoy.

 

[trecile]

Jaca - Santa CRUZ
SANTA CRUZ - SANTA CILIA (via SJdP)

Santa Cruz de la Serós has nice accommodation and a few nice churches!

Any recommendations on places to stay in Santa Cruz de la Serós? I don't see anything on Gronze.

 

[J Willhaus]

We stayed at Hotel Rural El Mirador de lost Pirineos two years ago. It is a luxury place there in Santa Cruz.

 

[trecile]

How does this look? I hope that I didn't miss a stage!
My hang up before was not knowing if there was anywhere to stay in Santa Cruz.

Oloron-Sainte-Marie - Sarrance	23 km
Sarrance - Urdos	27 km
Urdos - Canfranc	24 km
Canfranc - Jaca	20 km
Jaca - Santa Cruz de la Serós (via San Juan de la Peña)	22.4 km
Santa Cruz de la Serós - Arrés	16.8 km
Arrés - Ruesta	26.34 km
Ruesta - Sangüesa	21.5 km
Sangüesa - Monreal	27.49 km
Monreal - Tiebas	13.2 km

 

[J Willhaus]

You'll likely have a longer day visiting the monastery as there is walking around to do there, too. The route down on the road is slightly longer than the Camino route down, but as I mentioned in an earlier post, the Camino route is very steep, rocky, and involves hanging on to a cable to keep you from falling off the mountain at one point. I would take a cab up and walk down so you have plenty of time for the monasteries. There are two sites and I would allow a full hour at least at each place. There is a cafe at the new monastery so you could eat there or get some beverage, too.

Edit: we were glad to stay at the restful luxury place in Santa Cruz after the walk down...

 

[trecile]

We stayed at Hotel Rural El Mirador de lost Pirineos two years ago. It is a luxury place there in Santa Cruz.

I just made a reservation there.

the Camino route is very steep, rocky, and involves hanging on to a cable to keep you from falling off the mountain at one point

Yeah, I think that I'll skip that! My husband and kids wouldn't be too happy thinking about me hanging on to a cable to keep from falling off the mountain!

 

[J Willhaus]

My husband thought I exaggerated the cable part. There is actually a ledge about 3 or 4 feet wide that is covered with loose rock for you to shuffle through as you cling to the cable. I am terribly afraid of heights so was sure we would be falling to our deaths at any moment and I couldn't watch as he shufffled along after me...

You will love the El Mirador...

 

[trecile]

I'm trying to make the day to the Santa Cruz and the monastery clear in my mind.

It sounds like I'm looking at three options (after reading @J Willhaus' description of the hike to the monastery I have decided that's out)

1. Take a bus or taxi from Jaca to the monastery, then walk down to Santa Cruz. So basically a rest day without much walking, except to Santa Cruz?

2. Take a bus or taxi to Santa Cruz, drop off my pack then visit the monastery.

3. Walk the standard Camino to Santa Cilia, then take a bus or taxi to Santa Cruz or the monastery.

 

[J Willhaus]

This was the bus schedule from Jaca to Santa Cruz from summer 2022. It may have changed, but at least you can see the bus company. There was no bus to the monastery that summer. I believe there was last summer (2023) as several have mentioned it. You may need to go to the tourist office or ask your hospitalera in Jaca.

 

[trecile]

This was the bus schedule from Jaca to Santa Cruz from summer 2022. It may have changed, but at least you can see the bus company. There was no bus to the monastery that summer. I believe there was last summer (2023) as several have mentioned it. You may need to go to the tourist office or ask your hospitalera in Jaca.

Thank you for this information. Fortunately, I won't be doing this stage on a Sunday, when the bus doesn't go until the late afternoon!

 

[trecile]

I found the bus company's website

Puntos de venta -

Otro sitio realizado con WordPress

laburundesa.com

Where I found the schedule, which is the same as what @J Willhaus posted.

https://laburundesa.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/JACA-PAMPLONA.pdf

 

[Vacajoe]

I'm trying to make the day to the Santa Cruz and the monastery clear in my mind.

It sounds like I'm looking at three options (after reading @J Willhaus' description of the hike to the monastery I have decided that's out)

1. Take a bus or taxi from Jaca to the monastery, then walk down to Santa Cruz. So basically a rest day without much walking, except to Santa Cruz?

2. Take a bus or taxi to Santa Cruz, drop off my pack then visit the monastery.

3. Walk the standard Camino to Santa Cilia, then take a bus or taxi to Santa Cruz or the monastery.

You left out the simplest: just walk! Walk Jaca to Santa Cruz, drop,your bag at the hotel, continue up to the monasteries, tour, and the walk down to your hotel. Or walk up and down prior to heading to Arres the next day. Or if that also sounds too long of a day, after staying the night in Santa Cruz, walk up to the monasteries and tour, then walk down and onto Santa Cilia for a night.

Lots of options, none of which involve bus schedules or taxis.

 

[Theatregal]

I'm trying to make the day to the Santa Cruz and the monastery clear in my mind.

If it's helpful, this was my post for the day from Jaca - San Juan de la Peña - Santa Cruz - Santa Cilia last September which includes the transport information for the employee bus from Jaca to San Juan. I checked in with the tourist office to confirm the bus was running and they phoned the monastery to confirm the departure time for me. If I walk the Aragonés again, I think I would stay in Santa Cruz after the hike down from the monastery as it sounds like you'll be doing!

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/caryn-on-the-aragones.82851/post-1183720

 

[Former member 104756]

@trecile just a word about The Interpretation Centre built alongside the ‘new’ monastery. Neither Dominique nor I are known for our love of museums and the like, when we could otherwise be outdoors - we usually make quick work of museum visits. But we both found the Interpretation Centre fascinating and beautifully curated. And the new monastery is in a peaceful setting, a lovely place to sit and contemplate if you have the time. We were happy we’d allowed time for a leisurely visit before making our way to the ‘old’ monastery.

Centro de Interpretación del Monasterio - Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña

Un sorprendente espacio del siglo XXI, asentado sobre las ruinas del Monasterio Nuevo, nos muestra los diferentes aspectos del conjunto.

www.monasteriosanjuan.com

After the Interpretation Centre, by following the camino signs, we walked down to the old monastery - breathtaking, captivating, all the superlatives others have mentioned. It was difficult to drag ourselves away.

Our visit was in mid May 2023. We went to the Tourist Office to find out about transport options. There were no buses running. We arranged a taxi and the driver dropped us off at the new monastery and picked us up 3 or 4 hours later at the old. As we were staying in Jaca two nights, he took us back there but had we been walking on he could have dropped us anywhere on the path.

Hopefully the buses will be running or you may find others to share the cost if you take a taxi. Enjoy the Aragones.

PS Mural of the Aragones Way in the Interpretation Centre.

 

[trecile]

You left out the simplest: just walk! Walk Jaca to Santa Cruz, drop,your bag at the hotel, continue up to the monasteries, tour, and the walk down to your hotel.

I think that I will look at walking to Santa Cruz via the standard Camino route through Santa Cilia, then up to Santa Cruz where I can drop off my backpack at my hotel before walking up to the monasteries. Or maybe there's a taxi that I can take up there and walk down?

Another option would be to bus to Santa Cilia, then walk up to Santa Cruz.

I'll wait until I get there to decide which option will be best for me.

 

[J Willhaus]

I think that I will look at walking to Santa Cruz via the standard Camino route through Santa Cilia, then up to Santa Cruz where I can drop off my backpack at my hotel before walking up to the monasteries. Or maybe there's a taxi that I can take up there and walk down?

Another option would be to bus to Santa Cilia, then walk up to Santa Cruz.

I'll wait until I get there to decide which option will be best for me.

No taxi in Santa Cruz.

 

[Albertagirl]

Reading this thread has aroused in me a strong urge to return to the Aragones and to see San Juan de la Pena once more. I do not know whether this might be possible for me: certainly not for 18 months or so, and I am not getting any younger. If you feel this calling, do not put it off too long.

 

[trecile]

I'm quoting some posts from another thread, because I have lots of questions about this section:

View attachment 167551

OK, here is the path down from the old monastery. You can me me creeping my way down with poles and just past where I am there can see that there is a cable attached to the side of the mountain so you can hang on to keep you from sliding down to your death. The other photos are of the actual path down. Very steep and rocky like this all the way down.
View attachment 167552 View attachment 167553

Yes! So true. Lovely and bucolic in the beginning...

View attachment 167555

...and then suddenly... (photo taken in the same spot as yours I think!)
View attachment 167556
Ultimately I was happy I did it, the views were stunning but it was certainly joint challenging and dangerous in spots.

It sounds like this treacherous section is mostly between the two monasteries?

Where on this map where these pictures taken?



I have a reservation in Santa Cruz de la Serós the day after Jaca, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to go. I want to see the monasteries, but is the path between Santa Cruz and the monasteries the dangerous part? Unless I meet another pilgrim to walk with, I will be solo, and Gronze discourages people from walking this way alone.

 

[J Willhaus]

THe photos are after the old monastery and walking down the Camino path to Santa Cruz. Take the road down. it is a little further, but in the end maybe faster. The path between the monasteries is steep and rocky, but not treacherous. You can always go on the road. Not much traffic.

PM me if you want to talk or we can connect by WhatsApp. You have my info.

 

[J Willhaus]

Take a cab up.
Or a bus if there is one. Don't try to bushwack along the alternate route. It is very steep.

 

[Theatregal]

@trecile Yes, what Janet said re: photos location
I should mention that the path between Santa Cruz and Santa Cilia also had some challenging spots. In one area part of the path had collapsed and I had to scramble up. A rock with arrow had slid down - a mini rock avalanche! All this being said, both are beautiful paths and doable in good weather if you take it slow and stay sure footed. I know you prefer to walk in sandals but I don't think it would be advisable on these paths!

 

[Vacajoe]

I may be one of the few pilgrims who have actually walked that alternative (but actually very old!) route up to the monasteries via Atares in the last 10 years or maybe even last few hundred years!!!! It is barely a path, mostly unmarked, and if it is at all rainy, you will be walking in ankle deep water since most of it is essentially runoff paths on the slope. Zero support (Atares is nearly abandoned) and you’ll need to use gps tracks since it’s not really a path at all. Some improvements have been made since I walked it six years ago, but it’s still not up to par unless you trust your navigation skills and have gps.

Instead, walk the regular path to Santa Cruz and then continue up the road to the monasteries. The road is seldom traveled, has a wide shoulder, and provides shade and views galore.

 

[Flog]

Respectfully, for what it's worth and all opinions being subjective, I do feel some of the descriptions, especially the downhill stretch after the monasteries, are a bit exaggerated:

I've taken this route twice (in late April 2019 and early November 2021). The first time, with a friend, we did find the way up to the Monasteries quite arduous in the heat, it seemed to go uphill forever and we lost our way more than once. We both remember shouting back and forth to keep within earshot while I scouted ahead trying to find the path a couple of times where it diverged. After the monasteries, we made it all the way to Santa Cilia without incident, though it took a bit of concentration and we were both rather cranky until we finally settled down with a beer and food. We were the only pilgrims in the albergue, the friendly hospitalera showed up very late to check us in, (also offered us food but we had already eaten at the bar) we settled in and she left us to it. My friend admitted it was her longest and toughest camino day and she's walked quite a few, but I didn't think it was so bad. We did agree though, we were glad of each other's company and support, especially the last few km before the new monastery. The next day, after Santa Cilia was an easy walk to Arres.

In early November 2021, admittedly, I cheated a bit and accepted a lift for a good portion of the way up to the monasteries. There probably wouldn't have been enough daylight hours otherwise. But I actually found the way down to Santa Cruz and Santa Cilia easier this time as I was alone and only had myself to worry about. Yes ok, you need to be sure-footed and I agree, all of this alternative path is safer walked in company but there is nothing technical about it. I always walk with one stick for support and about 9kg on my back.

 

[J Willhaus]

Ok, I am old and fat. I don't practice yoga or anything to help me with balance or flexibility. I am afraid of heights. I know my limits and kudos to all of you who sprang up and down the moutainside nimbly with only a moderate challenge.

Phil at 73 has had numerous falls resulting in surgeries in recent times. I wouldn't walk that way again willingly even without him along to worry about.

If you want to go that way, it is open and well marked down from the monasteries. But it is steep and rocky and for someone with a fear of heights, scary.

 

[Flog]

Ok, I am old and fat. I don't practice yoga or anything to help me with balance or flexibility. I am afraid of heights. I know my limits and kudos to all of you who sprang up and down the moutainside nimbly with only a moderate challenge.

Except nobody mentioned anybody springing nimbly up and down the mountain or that it was only a moderate challenge, quite the opposite.
As I said, opinions are subjective.

 

[Theatregal]

Respectfully, for what it's worth and all opinions being subjective, I do feel some of the descriptions, especially the downhill stretch after the monasteries, are a bit exaggerated:

Well of course all opinions are subjective. A question is asked and an answer is given based on a personal experience. I don't see any reason to doubt or identify the answer as "a bit exaggerated." I made my decision to take those paths after reading several different accounts of this route that described it in different seasons, years, weather conditions, physical ability etc. There were a whole range of very different experiences, all shared I'm sure, in good faith.

 

[Flog]

Well of course all opinions are subjective. A question is asked and an answer is given based on a personal experience. I don't see any reason to doubt or identify the answer as "a bit exaggerated." I made my decision to take those paths after reading several different accounts of this route that described it in different seasons, years, weather conditions, physical ability etc. There were a whole range of very different experiences, all shared I'm sure, in good faith.

Indeed.. but there were also several statements, in this and in another recent thread regarding this route that, in my opinion were exaggerated. I was simply adding my own thoughts and sharing my own experience in the hope that it might be helpful.

I thought your own advice was spot on: if you choose to walk it, do it in good weather, take it slow and sure footed and wear appropriate footwear, not sandals.

And if you doubt your own ability or fitness, don't walk it alone, or take a bus or taxii. It's a lonely path, like much of the Aragonês.

 

[CatPhillips]

I’m on the Aragonés now and I’m struggling to figure out how to see the monasteries without killing myself on the dangerous path! I’d also really rather not take a taxi any more than I have to. How about this: from Jaca I walk on the camino path to where to road goes up to Santa Cruz. Then I walk on the road to Santa Cruz and drop off my bag. Then walk the rest of the way to the monasteries on the road. Then walk back down (on the road) and spend the night. OR I walk to Santa Cruz, spend the night and walk up and down the next day (on the road). And then walk on to Arres? What do you think?

 

[J Willhaus]

There are several options.

You can walk fromJaca and then up from Santa Cruz as you suggest, but make sure you check the hours that the Monasteries are open so you don't miss the times. We spent about 2 hours (1 hr at the old and one at the new). You can also eat lunch at the new Monastery. You could also walk to Santa Cilia and spend the night and walk up the next day to give yourself more time. They allow you to stay two nights at Santa Cilia if you want to visit the monasteries.

Santa Cruz is also a pretty little town with some interesting churches. There is also a bus to Santa Cruz so you could take a bus there in the morning, walk up, then take the bus back to Jaca in the afternoon if you want to spend an extra day in Jaca.

Or just skip the walk to Santa Cruz take the bus and walk up to the monasteries and then walk on from there the next day. There is no albergue in Santa Cruz, but there is lodging. We stayed in a luxury place, but there is at least one other hotel/hostel.

 

[CatPhillips]

There are several options.

You can walk fromJaca and then up from Santa Cruz as you suggest, but make sure you check the hours that the Monasteries are open so you don't miss the times. We spent about 2 hours (1 hr at the old and one at the new). You can also eat lunch at the new Monastery. You could also walk to Santa Cilia and spend the night and walk up the next day to give yourself more time. They allow you to stay two nights at Santa Cilia if you want to visit the monasteries.

Santa Cruz is also a pretty little town with some interesting churches. There is also a bus to Santa Cruz so you could take a bus there in the morning, walk up, then take the bus back to Jaca in the afternoon if you want to spend an extra day in Jaca.

Or just skip the walk to Santa Cruz take the bus and walk up to the monasteries and then walk on from there the next day. There is no albergue in Santa Cruz, but there is lodging. We stayed in a luxury place, but there is at least one other hotel/hostel.
View attachment 167680

Thank you!

 

[Flog]

I’m struggling to figure out how to see the monasteries without killing myself on the dangerous path!

What do you think?

I think you should take less notice of exaggerated reports. Pilgrims have walked the path and survived.

But anyway...
If you'd rather not use a taxi and don't want to take the path, then the option you're left with is the road up through Santa Cruz and stay either there after the monasteries or continue on down to Santa Cilia

Buen Camino, whatever you decide..

Edit:
You could walk Jaca to Santa Cilia and sleep there, then walk up to visit the monasteries next morning and walk back down and on to Arres afterwards...

 

[trecile]

I’m on the Aragonés now and I’m struggling to figure out how to see the monasteries without killing myself on the dangerous path!

I'll be interested to know what you end up doing, as this section posts the biggest dilemma to me! I do have a reservation at a hotel in Santa Cruz.

 

[CatPhillips]

I'll be interested to know what you end up doing, as this section posts the biggest dilemma to me! I do have a reservation at a hotel in Santa Cruz.

When are you walking the Aragonés? I will be in Jaca tomorrow. Right now the plan is to walk to Santa cilia Saturday and spend the night. Then walk to the monastery and back on the road. And maybe spend another night at in Santa cilia.

I’ll let you know what happens!

 

[trecile]

When are you walking the Aragonés? I will be in Jaca tomorrow

Not until mid May. I'll start from Oloron-Sainte-Marie on May 14th.

 

[Joe.Iozzi]

When are you walking the Aragonés? I will be in Jaca tomorrow. Right now the plan is to walk to Santa cilia Saturday and spend the night. Then walk to the monastery and back on the road. And maybe spend another night at in Santa cilia.

I’ll let you know what happens!

Hi. I'll be walking from Canfranc Estacion to Jaca May 1st. Was the bridge below the dam passable? Theatragel posted recently "that there was a board placed for crossing. Easy!" last August.

 

[J Willhaus]

Hi. I'll be walking from Canfranc Estacion to Jaca May 1st. Was the bridge below the dam passable? Theatragel posted recently "that there was a board placed for crossing. Easy!" last August.

I would just ask at the tourist office in CE if it is open when you arrive. I don't know how you are arriving, but an alternative would be to start at Canfranc Pueblo. The Mountain Bus goes several times a day and you can either go up from Jaca and get off at CP or take the bus one stop down from CE to CP if you don't want to walk on the road.

 

[Flog]

Hi. I'll be walking from Canfranc Estacion to Jaca May 1st. Was the bridge below the dam passable? Theatragel posted recently "that there was a board placed for crossing. Easy!" last August.

I'll be passing that way in ten days or so, and I can post what the current conditions are like then. If the river can't be crossed below the dam, it's really not a big deal having to walk the couple of km along the N330 down into Canfranc.. it has a good shoulder, good visibility and a barrier in places.

 

[Vacajoe]

While walking, I prefer not to take transit. This still leaves you a lot of different options or different lengths, but here are the simplest ones (mentioned by others but consolidated here):

1: Jaca to Santa Cruz on one day, then the next day walk from Santa Cruz to the monasteries and back down to Santa Cilia. That first day would be short enough to give you time to tour the excellent church museum in Jaca. Third day of Santa Cilia to Arres.

2. 2. Jaca to Santa Cilia on one day. Santa Cilia to monasteries and return to Santa Cilia the next. Third day would be Santa Cilia to Arres.

3. Jaca to Santa Cilia on one day. Santa Cilia up to monasteries and then down to Santa Cruz the next. Then Santa Cruz to Arres.


All of these provide for doable distances that won’t tax a moderate walker, plus you won’t feel rushed at the monasteries worrying about getting back on the trail. And yes, plenty of other options, but these would be my choices.

 

[CatPhillips]

I walked on the road from Canfranc station to Canfranc pueblo. I was advised that the bridge was out. It wasn’t bad, really. Most of the time I walked on the other side of the guard rail. It’s a short walk.

 

[CatPhillips]

Thanks to all for the recommendations and advice. I’m sad to report that I didn’t make it to the monasteries. I walked on from Jaca to Arres. In retrospect, I’m glad I didn’t attempt the walk up and back. By the time I got to Arres I was beat. 28 kilometers in the beating sun, especially with that last climb up to Arres, about did me in. Albergue and hospitalera were lovely in Arres.

Today I walked to Artienda and I’m glad for the shorter day (18k). Again blasting sun and no shade. Views all around and very solitary. I think two cars passed me all day and one women walking with a dog. Otherwise just me and the trail. This albergue is also nice, they have everything you need and the staff is helpful and kind.

Tomorrow a really short day to Ruesta.

 

[Adelina]

Glad you made it to those special places! There are many ways to do it. We ended up taxiing from Jaca to Santa Cruz, dropped off our bags at the fancy hotel there, and walked up the well marked trail (no road hike necessary) to the Monastery to enjoy a lovely lunch at the top, explored, returned to Santa Cruz and spent a lovely evening (my pal took the longest bath there!). The next day through Santa Cilia (great bakery!) and on to ARRES for the night where no one slept due to feuding hospitaleros (a first for me!). Next through Ruesta for a nice break at the cafe/albergue; and on to ARTIEDA. Lovely days every one! Enjoy the rest of your journey.

 

[CatPhillips]

That all sounds lovely. I resisted the urge to taxi up and spend the night at the fancy resort. Trying to have a budget camino this time around. Also, after having a look at the very, very curvy road, I decided I might not be able to take enough Dramamine to get me there without incident. I’m not a fan of taxis and curvy roads combined.

Your experience sounds perfect and maybe I’ll be back someday and it will all work out.

 

[Former member 104756]

Your experience sounds perfect and maybe I’ll be back someday and it will all work out.

Hi Cat - I'm one of those who loves the Aragones Way. For various reasons, it took until my third time on the path to visit the Monasteries. Wonderful - but they are not going anywhere. They'll be there when you return. Enjoy tomorrow's walk to and stay in Ruesta.

 

[Vacajoe]

feuding hospitaleros

Okay, not to be a gossip and we don’t need the prurient details, but spill a little bit of tea on what the main disagreement was!!!!

 

[Former member 104756]

Lovely days every one!

Same! And how lucky we were last time not only to visit the monasteries - but also to stay in the Canfranc peublo albergue (not yet open on our previous visits) and to have lovely (non-feuding ) hospitaleras like you and Sue.

 

[Adelina]

It started at dinner about serving a veggie meal, and escalated from there - I think it was near the end of their stay; the albergue was packed (!!) and they were nearing their melting point. Needless to say, in the bathroom the following morning, I asked how another pilgrim had slept "Not a wink," she said. That was so for most of us that night. I think that was an aberration, as everyone I know who has been in Arres has had an excellent stay.

 

[Former member 104756]

I think it was near the end of their stay; the albergue was packed (!!) and they were nearing their melting point.

I am sure it doesn't happen often - at least publicly- but I can understand. Not excusing, but I am sure it's not an easy gig - and I'd imagine Arres could have more challenges than most.

 

[J Willhaus]

I am sure it doesn't happen often - at least publicly- but I can understand. Not excusing, but I am sure it's not an easy gig - and I'd imagine Arres could be have more challenges than most.

We always have one or two minor disagreements when serving, but not in ear shot of pilgrims and we almost never argue at home. It is usually about pilgrims wanting to leave their bags for us to watch while they go off and do something (like before check in or after we are closed in the morning).

He feels it puts us at risk since we are taking responsibility for the bag. If something goes missing we could be blamed. (Retired police office in him, I think.) I don't think it is that big of a deal. It is inconvenient if we need to leave for shopping though. Anyway I can think of at least 2 or 3 times when this has occurred in the 5 albergues we have worked together.

Arres is remote so you do spend a lot of time together. We each went on walks most days so we weren't together every minute.

 

[CatPhillips]

Just finished dinner at the albergue in Artieda. I had one of the best dinners I’ve had on any camino. And the service was excellent. I recommend it. And the view! Wow!

 

[Former member 104756]

That’s fab @CatPhillips that view is beautiful indeed. I haven’t stayed at Artieda - but had a longer than usual lunch stop there en route to Ruesta. And enjoyed a rest in the hammock. Difficult to leave.

 

[J Willhaus]

Just finished dinner at the albergue in Artieda. I had one of the best dinners I’ve had on any camino. And the service was excellent. I recommend it. And the view! Wow!

We liked it there, too.

 

[trecile]

Just finished dinner at the albergue in Artieda. I had one of the best dinners I’ve had on any camino. And the service was excellent. I recommend it. And the view! Wow!

I've been a little apprehensive after reading about the trail to the monasteries, but you are making me excited to be there in May!

 

[CatPhillips]

I had another great experience at the albergue in Ruesta. The food was excellent but even better was the welcome by the two hospitaleras. They could not have been more welcoming and sweet. They even left a sweet little note for me at breakfast!

There were locals livening up the place at the bar, and three or four dogs, which I appreciated. I was glad it wasn’t a total ghost town!

I paid 8E extra for a private room (it came with a lock on the door which made it worth it, if nothing else). Interesting place in the ruins of a town. Nothing like it.

 

[Former member 104756]

Interesting place in the ruins of a town. Nothing like it.

That’s for sure. I’ve only had good experiences there. Glad it was for you too

 

[trecile]

I paid 8E extra for a private room

I've reserved a private room there.

 

[CatPhillips]

Just waking up in the albergue in Sangüesa. For 5E you get a clean, organized place to sleep and eat. You call the number on the door and she comes to check you in and leaves. There are keys for each guest to the front door, so it’s always locked, which is good. Great deal.

 

[Former member 104756]

@CatPhillips Have you met any other pilgrims yet? I've always met other pilgrims on the Aragones (though not too many) - that was in May (2016 and 2023) and late Sept/Oct (2019). Maybe they are just ahead or just behind you!

 

[CatPhillips]

I have met other pilgrims, yes. Almost every albergue has had one or two others, but they seem to walk faster than me and I don’t see them again. The last few days, though, I have been keeping pace with a sweet French family. They were in the albergue with me last night (and two nights prior) but today they walked on to Monreal and I am in Lumbier.

Today was fabulous. The landscape through the Foz de Lumbier nature preserve is so beautiful. So glad I came this way. The first part of the walk is along a road with cars and trucks zooming by, so that’s not so good. But then the turn off and finally the River and the gorge and it’s out of this world beautiful.

The downside is there is no albergue so I’m wrecking my budget with a hotel room. But it’s fancy, and the staff is nice, and it has a balcony with a view so it’s all good.

Cat

 

[Juspassinthru]

I have met other pilgrims, yes. Almost every albergue has had one or two others, but they seem to walk faster than me and I don’t see them again. The last few days, though, I have been keeping pace with a sweet French family. They were in the albergue with me last night (and two nights prior) but today they walked on to Monreal and I am in Lumbier.

Today was fabulous. The landscape through the Foz de Lumbier nature preserve is so beautiful. So glad I came this way. The first part of the walk is along a road with cars and trucks zooming by, so that’s not so good. But then the turn off and finally the River and the gorge and it’s out of this world beautiful.

The downside is there is no albergue so I’m wrecking my budget with a hotel room. But it’s fancy, and the staff is nice, and it has a balcony with a view so it’s all good.

Cat

We enjoyed the Foz immensely. It was cultural shock when we hit Puente la Reina.

 

[Juspassinthru]

I am sure it doesn't happen often - at least publicly- but I can understand. Not excusing, but I am sure it's not an easy gig - and I'd imagine Arres could have more challenges than most.

We were there 10 days ago, 6 Pilgrims total and very chill. Sorry if your experience was different, Arrés for us was a highlight.

 

[Former member 104756]

We were there 10 days ago, 6 Pilgrims total and very chill. Sorry if your experience was different, Arrés for us was a highlight.

I think you have misunderstood my comment or confused my post with another's. I enjoyed and appreciated my stay in Arres when we were there on 2016. You can see from the thread that my comment was in response to a post by another member mentioning some problems between the hospitaleros when she was in Arres. I commented that being a hospitalero is not an easy gig and I could understand Arres could be particularly challenging, given the relatively small space and fairly isolated environment.

 

[Juspassinthru]

If I confused the stream, I apologize. And I agree, being a hospitalero/a must be a challenge.

 

[Vacajoe]

The downside is there is no albergue so I’m wrecking my budget with a hotel room. But it’s fancy, and the staff is nice, and it has a balcony with a view so it’s all good.

Did you get a room there with a giant bathtub? . It’s one of my wife’s favorite stops on that route! Pilgrim discount and really, really good food, too.

 

[CatPhillips]

Did you get a room there with a giant bathtub? . It’s one of my wife’s favorite stops on that route! Pilgrim discount and really, really good food, too.

I DID get the room with the giant bathtub! It turned out to be a bit disappointing, though, because the water pressure was so low that I couldn’t fill it with hot water. Still, I loved the giant bathroom with all the windows, and the view from the main room. And food really was good! I had duck! Not your typical pilgrim menu!

I left the albergue in Tiebas this morning and will arrive on the Frances soon at Puente de Reina. I am sad to say goodbye to the tranquility of the aragonés. Preparing my introverted soul for a new reality.

I am, however, looking forward to meeting up with an old friend and walking with her for a few days before I head back to Ohio.

Thanks to all who helped me navigate this camino. If anyone has specific questions, I’m happy to answer. I recommend this camino to all who enjoy a quiet, scenic, solitary camino.

I should add, one of the best things about it is that the local people seemed genuinely glad to see pilgrims. They were kind and friendly and helpful. Not that that isn’t my experience on other Camino’s. But it seemed especially true on this one.

Cat