Irish Bernie
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Francis 2013-2014-2015,16 and June 2017,May 2018,Sept 2018.
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A memorable spot in Castrojerez - Case del Camping. We stayed in a camping cabin with some other pilgrims - a 2 br cabin that we reserved ahead - but the memorable part was dinner - grilled lamb shanks that were amazing. You'll need some friends because no one could eat this on their own.
Bernie, I'm on the meseta right now and it is so spectacularly beautiful in full spring colors that it's dinner conversation almost every night -- as in, how come everybody says this is boring and unattractive?
I've stayed in some excellent albergues. I'll post names and places as soon as I gather the information. I hope your walk is as beautiful as mine. Buen Camino!
I have decided to finally do the Mesta next month after bypassing it many times,does anyone have fave Alberques along that route that I should not miss,and why,thank you.
Bernie,
You probably already know this, however, I shall, at the risk of ridicule say,,,,,,,,, go with the flow bro,,,,,,,,,,,,, there may never be enough favourite Albergues to make everyone happy,,,,, probably never enough to miss,,,,,,,, and probably never enough not to miss.
Buen (finding what you need ) Camino
La Finca in Población de Campos. Possibly the nicest albergue on the Camino. All the "bunks" are like tiny rooms, especially the uppers which are accessed by mini staircases. And the restaurant there is very good with a great pilgrim meal. When I I was there last year they even let you use the washing machine for free!
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The washing machine is still free. And the detergent, too!La Finca in Población de Campos. Possibly the nicest albergue on the Camino. All the "bunks" are like tiny rooms, especially the uppers which are accessed by mini staircases. And the restaurant there is very good with a great pilgrim meal. When I I was there last year they even let you use the washing machine for free!
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Ok, here we go:
La Fabrica, Tardajos
Santa Brigada/Juan Ypres, Hontanas
La Finca, Poblacian de Campos
Santa Maria, Carrión de Los Contes
LaMorena, Lodigos
Enjoy!
The Meseta is sublime. Pure heaven.how come everybody says this is boring and unattractive?
Julia beat me to it, recommending Liberanos Domine.Loved Liberanos Dominee (SP?) a private albergue in Rabe de las Calzadas run by the wonderful Clementina. Clean, fabulous food, and the option of glorious vespers at the convent nearby. And then the next night Santa Brigida in Hontanas.
Definitely Santa Brigida in Hontanas. One of the best albergues on my trip.I have decided to finally do the Mesta next month after bypassing it many times,does anyone have fave Alberques along that route that I should not miss,and why,thank you.
Oh, some reasons why...
La Fabrics, cool building, only 4 per room, towels and soap provided (seriously!), great restaurant. And wait til you check out the showers with the jets....
Santa Brigida, so well set up. They've thought of everything. Don't miss the homemade paella communal meal.
La Finca, what Trecile said.
Santa Maria, the sisters are so warm and welcoming, how can you not like them? The evening songs and pilgrim blessings are very special.
La Morena, spacious dorms, lovely garden, outstanding food. This was from tonight's menu peregrino.View attachment 41890View attachment 41890
You can rent me out as a friend. Limited schedule though, and not always cheap either.Is it possible to rent some friends ??
Gracias, Bala! Yo tengo una lavadora y la secadora.The washing machine is still free. And the detergent, too!
You can rent me out as a friend. Limited schedule though, and not always cheap either.
Awww, that is sweet, Bernie!!! Well, you know I have Irish roots, from North Tipperary, Borrisokane and Terryglass. I was the first member of my Family to return (2 years ago), since 1832.I met a Canadian friend top of Pyrenees Sept 2013,she's not cheap either,but hopefully bit cheaper after we marry in Oct
Awww, that is sweet, Bernie!!! Well, you know I have Irish roots, from North Tipperary, Borrisokane and Terryglass. I was the first member of my Family to return (2 years ago), since 1832.
And, if I can swing it, I hope to visit again on my way back from Santiago near the end of June.
Well, in 1832, that was before the Famine. My 3 X Great Grandfather must have got a good penny for the land he sold just before leaving Ireland. When I get back and meet with the present owner, that will be my opening offer to purchase it back, a good penny.I'm glad the banished are finally allowed home lol
Is it possible to rent some friends ??
One of my favorite meseta towns was Hornillos. Stayed in a great little plave called De Sol a Sol. The guy running the place was great. Had landry wash services which were nice. Hornillos is a one-street town, but has great places to eat. One of my favorite Meseta stops.I have decided to finally do the Mesta next month after bypassing it many times,does anyone have fave Alberques along that route that I should not miss,and why,thank you.
I cannot answer for other people but I can say for myself that it feels very different. Very empty and bare. Little shade and little to interrupt the rhythm of walking. In summer that can make it physically challenging: heat and thirst are greater potential problems than in most other sections of the CF. But the physical challenges are probably not the most important difference. Perhaps more significant is the psychological effect of walking day after day through a landscape which varies very little. It can be quite hypnotic. Those who walk in company may not experience it but as a solo walker I find that I become very introspective on the meseta. My body switches into autopilot and my mind goes off in some rather odd directions!Why are there so many threads concerning the meseta part of the Camino Frances and whether to walk it or not? It is neither easier nor more difficult than other parts. It's just different. Low rolling hills and flat agricultural fields.
The only stretch I found to have less water was that bit out of Carrion, but otherwise plenty of water available and it was no hotter than anyplace else on the Frances, and I wore a brimmed hat anyway so shade wasn't an issue.I cannot answer for other people but I can say for myself that it feels very different. Very empty and bare. Little shade and little to interrupt the rhythm of walking. In summer that can make it physically challenging: heat and thirst are greater potential problems than in most other sections of the CF. But the physical challenges are probably not the most important difference. Perhaps more significant is the psychological effect of walking day after day through a landscape which varies very little. It can be quite hypnotic. Those who walk in company may not experience it but as a solo walker I find that I become very introspective on the meseta. My body switches into autopilot and my mind goes off in some rather odd directions!
I agree. I hear so many avoid it, and for me it was among the most enjoyable. The way the light hits the countryside in the morning is just wonderful. I tell people do at least three or four days just to experience it. My opinion.Why are there so many threads concerning the meseta part of the Camino Frances and whether to walk it or not? It is neither easier nor more difficult than other parts. It's just different. Low rolling hills and flat agricultural fields.
I cannot answer for other people but I can say for myself that it feels very different. Very empty and bare. !
I cannot answer for other people but I can say for myself that it feels very different. Very empty and bare. Little shade and little to interrupt the rhythm of walking. In summer that can make it physically challenging: heat and thirst are greater potential problems than in most other sections of the CF. But the physical challenges are probably not the most important difference. Perhaps more significant is the psychological effect of walking day after day through a landscape which varies very little. It can be quite hypnotic. Those who walk in company may not experience it but as a solo walker I find that I become very introspective on the meseta. My body switches into autopilot and my mind goes off in some rather odd directions!
Just need to work on a good reason for Penny to move to Ireland, hmmmm. Sounds like a, "Meseta thought," to be ruminated.
To those already recommended, I add Via Trajana in Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos, on the Roman road route after Sahagun. It’s a little oasis, family run, very friendly and with great food. And this alternative route is a splendid part of tge meseta, one which many folks seem to miss....I have decided to finally do the Mesta next month after bypassing it many times,does anyone have fave Alberques along that route that I should not miss,and why,thank you.
I was walking that day on El Norte between Ribadesella and El Pito......the rain was something but the frickin hail and wind was out of this world. But obviously we both made it and are thus truly anointed authentic pilgrimsI walked the Meseta in March of this year and experienced a wind-driven, hailing thunderstorm complete with lightning. The hail hurt like hell (like being shot with a thousand pellets from an air rifle); however, it was still one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. The ground was covered in white ice pellets as far as the eye could see. I felt so alive! Then the next day when I left Castrojeriz, I was the first to walk on the freshly fallen snow that had blanketed the Way for the first four hours of my walk. It was the epitome of serenity. I wouldn’t have missed those two days for the world!!!
I loved en el Camino albergue in Boadilla . Great communal evening meal. Lovely accommodation and they forwarded my sun hat to the next town when I forgot it.I have decided to finally do the Mesta next month after bypassing it many times,does anyone have fave Alberques along that route that I should not miss,and why,thank you.
Lucky You! And your enjoyment is palpable! Although I walked it in late September it was spectacular. Memories for life. En El Camino, Boadilla is a must. Buen CaminoBernie, I'm on the meseta right now and it is so spectacularly beautiful in full spring colors that it's dinner conversation almost every night -- as in, how come everybody says this is boring and unattractive?
I've stayed in some excellent albergues. I'll post names and places as soon as I gather the information. I hope your walk is as beautiful as mine. Buen Camino!
La Finca in Población de Campos. Possibly the nicest albergue on the Camino. All the "bunks" are like tiny rooms, especially the uppers which are accessed by mini staircases. And the restaurant there is very good with a great pilgrim meal. When I I was there last year they even let you use the washing machine for free!
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I had made a note of La Finca after reading about it here on the forum, and when I was having lunch in Boadilla I realized that it would be a good place to spend that night. I wanted to make sure that I got a bed there, so I asked the guy at the albergue in Boadilla to call them for me to make a reservation. It wasn't necessary, as there were only three other pilgrims there that night.I'd wanted to stay there so badly after having heard similarly great reviews, but alas the day I arrived they were full. Maybe I'll have better luck with this year's Camino!
Loved Liberanos Dominee (SP?) a private albergue in Rabe de las Calzadas run by the wonderful Clementina. Clean, fabulous food, and the option of glorious vespers at the convent nearby. And then the next night Santa Brigida in Hontanas.
Those were pretty much the best two albergues I stayed in. I had other memorable nights, but that was more due to other factors than the albergue itself.
San Bol. Primitive and isolated but a great experienceI have decided to finally do the Mesta next month after bypassing it many times,does anyone have fave Alberques along that route that I should not miss,and why,thank you.
Why are there so many threads concerning the meseta part of the Camino Frances and whether to walk it or not? It is neither easier nor more difficult than other parts. It's just different. Low rolling hills and flat agricultural fields.
after a while it can drive a person mad.
Im glad you decided to do this part of the Camino. Depending on the time of year you are going ...its beautiful desolation. You can go long distances...and it builds your stamina for the hills in Galicia. There are quite a few wonderful ALbergues - dont miss the Hosel in Sanbol. Its a primitive Albergue, and the towns people bring dinner up to feed the pilgrims. Another one is in Hontanas. That city appears like Brigadoon out of the Mesita. You see ads for the hostel and city, but cant see it on the horizon until you descend into it a km away! Hospital Obrigado at the end of the Mesita is a wonderful stop as well.I have decided to finally do the Mesta next month after bypassing it many times,does anyone have fave Alberques along that route that I should not miss,and why,thank you.
Albergue San Anton de Castrojeriz,
Alberge San Nicolas de Puente Fitero.
Rustic, small places that will give you a taste of what the camino was like before the hotel professionals took over the albergue business.
Ok, Bernie, I've got another one.
Sahagun, the Hospedria de la Santa Cruz Benedictinas.
The albergue has only been open about 4-5 weeks and is run by the now-residemt community of Marist Fathers. When I was there a few days ago, there were four of them, three Spaniards and one Italian, and all have walked the Camino, some of them multiple times or routes.
The feeling was less like an albergue than it was a sense of being welcomed into their community -- to share conversation, prayer, a meal of simple but abundant food. And of course, that's exactly what was happening. They live and work there, and we are welcomed guests. It was a unique and special experience.
Sleeping is four to a dorm, with each room having a private bath. There's a pleasant courtyard, a large library/living room where the community gathers for coffee, cookies, and wide-ranging conversation each afternoon. The big dining room at the end of the hall is the spot for the evening's communal meal and coffee, toast, fruit, and the like in the morning.
For those interested in the spiritual aspect of the Camino, the fathers celebrate mass nightly for the neighboring Benedictine sisters (but open to public and all pilgrims) in a spectacularly beautiful chapel around the corner. There is a pilgrim blessing ceremony afterwards.
And those who wish can stay to listen to the sisters sing Vespers, before heading back to the monastery to join the fathers in a bountiful meal and lively conversation.
Highly recommen
Quite right, but I think Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos deserves a mention as well as Bodega el Castillo. Bernie, you might enjoy a night of conversation with the distinguished British newspaper editor who resides there.Albergue San Anton de Castrojeriz,
Alberge San Nicolas de Puente Fitero.
Rustic, small places that will give you a taste of what the camino was like before the hotel professionals took over the albergue business.
Quite right, but I think Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos deserves a mention as well as Bodega el Castillo. Bernie, you might enjoy a night of conversation with the distinguished British newspaper editor who resides there.
As an Irish person i trust no British newspaper and even less so the editors
You could always ask the resident American journalist for a second opinion
I have decided to finally do the Mesta next month after bypassing it many times,does anyone have fave Alberques along that route that I should not miss,and why,thank you.
When I think of the Camino, I always visualize the Meseta. It was my favorite part of my Camino.Bernie, I'm on the meseta right now and it is so spectacularly beautiful in full spring colors that it's dinner conversation almost every night -- as in, how come everybody says this is boring and unattractive?
I've stayed in some excellent albergues. I'll post names and places as soon as I gather the information. I hope your walk is as beautiful as mine. Buen Camino!
The Meseta was my favorite part of my Camino. I know others may disagree but I dream of walking the Meseta. It’s magical to me.I have decided to finally do the Mesta next month after bypassing it many times,does anyone have fave Alberques along that route that I should not miss,and why,thank you.
I walked into En el Camino to get a coffee my last run down the CF and was very impressed - I booked there for my third Camino this August! Very nice place!I highly recommend En El Camino. Calle Francos, 1, 34468 Boadilla del Camino, Palencia, Spain. You have choices of a modern (very affordable) hotel or albergue style. Great ppl and food.
more info on this as far as costs would be great - this sounds intriguing to me!Ermitage de San Nicholas a 13th Century Knights Templar Refuge/Church is 9km past Castrojeriz. Run by Italian volunteers. Candlelight dinner. Very memorable.
Thank you as I am also making notes. Starting from Burgos on 22nd May so this info is really valuable.Thank you so much,much appreciated.
You will be ahead of me as I head out May 29th from SJPDP.Thank you as I am also making notes. Starting from Burgos on 22nd May so this info is really valuable.
Buen Camino
Sherry I will let you know. We may even catch up with one another. Buen CaminoYou will be ahead of me as I head out May 29th from SJPDP.
www.mycaminosresolve.com to contact me with any recommendations you have found on route
As far as I know it is donativo. I have always passed there too early in the day to stop, I don't think they open their doors until sometime between 2 and 4. There are usually back packs lined at the door and pilgrims go down to the river to cool off waiting for it to open. There is an ancient ritual of the priests washing the feet of pilgrims.more info on this as far as costs would be great - this sounds intriguing to me!
Eduardo is such a charm. The grounds are so well cared for. I stopped see him last year and when I was on the Pig Dig a few years ago dropped in with his brother Michael, the Wise Pilgrim.I walked into En el Camino to get a coffee my last run down the CF and was very impressed - I booked there for my third Camino this August! Very nice place!
more info on this as far as costs would be great - this sounds intriguing to me!
Thank you as I am also making notes. Starting from Burgos on 22nd May so this info is really valuable.
Buen Camino
Cool.I leave Burgos 22nd,maybe se ya on the road.
Try not to skip San Bol Bernie!Is it possible to rent some friends ??
Is this the one where the house is over 400 years old, parochial, and night prayer follows a wonderful communal meal, and the table has a card saying that your donation today pays for the meal for tomorrow’s pilgrims? If so, although it was maybe 12 or 13 years ago _ yes, lovely! Spirit of the camino.Any recommendations for bercianos del real camino ?
Try not to skip San Bol Bernie!
Peaceable Kingdom is on my wish list.Quite right, but I think Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos deserves a mention as well as Bodega el Castillo. Bernie, you might enjoy a night of conversation with the distinguished British newspaper editor who resides there.
I remember that charm very well! And the mother... a quite wonderful oasis on the caminoEduardo is such a charm. The grounds are so well cared for. I stopped see him last year and when I was on the Pig Dig a few years ago dropped in with his brother Michael, the Wise Pilgrim.
In Castrojeriz - Ultreia. Nice hosts, good food, included an underground tour of wine cellar/escape routes to castle.I have decided to finally do the Mesta next month after bypassing it many times,does anyone have fave Alberques along that route that I should not miss,and why,thank you.
Any stores near near main alberque in Burgos where I can buy a walking stick ?
Any stores near near main alberque in Burgos where I can buy a walking stick ?
There is an excellent outdoors shop called Base about a 10 minute walk south of the cathedral, just outside the old city centre. Put "Base deportivo Burgos" into Google Maps and it should come up.Thing is I may not stay there as I get into Burgos about 18:00,but I guess there is no harm in asking,leaving a donation
There is an excellent outdoors shop called Base about a 10 minute walk south of the cathedral, just outside the old city centre. Put "Base deportivo Burgos" into Google Maps and it should come up. View attachment 42143
I need help with remembering the 'Santa Clara' in Bercianos del Real Camino. My wife and I stayed there on 01 Oct 2017, even had a private room, and it's the only place out of our 46 day trek from SJPP to Santiago that if don't have recollections or pictures to help me. If anyone has some pictures to share, we would appreciate any help in jarring our memories.En el Camino in Boadilla was definitely my favourite, an oasis in the 'desert'. In Bercianos we stayed at 'Santa Clara' alberque which was excellent. We had a private room upstairs in the main house. Breakfast was excellent and the owners very welcoming and helpful. Coming from Adelaide in South Australia we thought the Meseta would be like walking the Hay Plains so we were pleasently surprised to find it wasn't flat at all but quite undulating and we enjoyed this section.
If you stayed upstairs at Santa Clara you would have seen the stair railing which i think was a metal sculpture of the world. They had a lovely courtyard with outdoor lounge chairs and a dog (i think a dalmation?) called Linda - I remember this as that is my name too! There was a separate dormitory area and pilgram kitchen where we cooked our dinner but breakfast was downstairs in the main house and was very good. Hope this helpsI need help with remembering the 'Santa Clara' in Bercianos del Real Camino. My wife and I stayed there on 01 Oct 2017, even had a private room, and it's the only place out of our 46 day trek from SJPP to Santiago that if don't have recollections or pictures to help me. If anyone has some pictures to share, we would appreciate any help in jarring our memories.
We, too, found the Meseta absolutely magical & I can't fathom why anyone would suggest bypassing it.
Another great albergue was 'La Franca' at Poblacion de Campos. The public areas were as private as you can get without getting a private room.
Some great options there,now is it best to book in advance ?.Something I never do generally,I will be walking from Burgos May 22nd.
Wow, still drawing a blank. Was the 'office' just inside the entry and to the right? An open air affair?If you stayed upstairs at Santa Clara you would have seen the stair railing which i think was a metal sculpture of the world. They had a lovely courtyard with outdoor lounge chairs and a dog (i think a dalmation?) called Linda - I remember this as that is my name too! There was a separate dormitory area and pilgram kitchen where we cooked our dinner but breakfast was downstairs in the main house and was very good. Hope this helps
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