The Start and the Finish

[Seabird]

Hello to all! Many thanks for all the joy I receive when reading your questions and answers. Here are mine:

1. I currently plan to start in Roncevalles, but I am wondering if I will be missing a lot by not starting in SJPdP. Was this segment a "peak" part of the journey for you? (And yes, I am being a little "punny.") Should I add this on? Extra time is not really a factor. I think I was more worried about starting in such a difficult place and the added arrangements of actually getting there. I will be coming from either Madrid or Bilbao.

2. I am walking solo, and my husband will join me in Santiago to spend another two weeks in Spain together. He had expressed some mild interest in walking the last few stages with me, but perhaps a better option is to walk together to Finisterre. But I wonder what it is like to have someone join you when you have developed your own rhythm over so many weeks? Did you resent the intrusion, even by a loved one, or were you excited to share the actual walking with him/her? Also, I've read the thread about how walking to Finisterre "saved" one family's Camino. If you've done it, are you really glad you did?

Thank you!

 

[Wokabaut_Meri]

Hi Seabird

If you have the time, SJPdP is a delightful town. We stayed there an extra day to celebrate my birthday before we started on our Camino and were so glad that we did. We also stayed in Orisson on the first night as we were walking with a friend who had never walked any distance before. It was a gentle start to the Way and we made friendships that night that lasted into Santiago and continue still.

There was a wonderful fiesta feeling to starting out from SJPdP - so many people from different nations setting out together for one destination. Staying at Orisson gave us plenty of time to appreciate the scenery, meet fellow pilgrims and get into the Walk/Eat/Sleep/Repeat pattern. Depending on your level of fitness and walking experience, SJPdP to Roncevalles is uphill and downhill but not really that taxing.

Buen Camino for your journey - whichever Way you take.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Did you resent the intrusion, even by a loved one, or were you excited to share the actual walking with him/her?

It will be a good start for re-entry to your life back at home and work. You will find that no one cares much about your experience, but your spouse will care more than anyone else. You will be in shape and enthusiastic, so will need to pull way back to his pace. Share with him, but don't be a bore. As he gets into the rhythm of walking and seeing things one step at a time, he will come to understand what you have experienced. You will really enjoy walking to the coast, though I hope you will have had enough fun that it does not "rescue" your pilgrimage, but is more of a dessert.

 

[jdpiguet]

Hi Seabird,

If time is not really a factor, a solution would be to start before SJPP on the "Voie du Puy" or on the "Voie de Vézelay"...
It will allow you to acclimate and check your setup before deciding if you want to take the route Napoleon, Valcarlos or the taxi for Roncesvalles.

I was really happy to walk to Fisterra, even if my Camino family wasn't. It was a very good time for reflecting and preparing to come back to the "civilisation".
I walked to Fisterra and from there I took the bus for Muxia. The walk part was the reflexion part, but the 2 days I had in Muxia were the real medicine for my soul.
Next time, I will walk to Muxia directly, if I can.

Buen Camino,
Jacques-D.

 

[Peter Fransiscus]

Hello to all! Many thanks for all the joy I receive when reading your questions and answers. Here are mine:

1. I currently plan to start in Roncevalles, but I am wondering if I will be missing a lot by not starting in SJPdP. Was this segment a "peak" part of the journey for you? (And yes, I am being a little "punny.") Should I add this on? Extra time is not really a factor. I think I was more worried about starting in such a difficult place and the added arrangements of actually getting there. I will be coming from either Madrid or Bilbao.

2. I am walking solo, and my husband will join me in Santiago to spend another two weeks in Spain together. He had expressed some mild interest in walking the last few stages with me, but perhaps a better option is to walk together to Finisterre. But I wonder what it is like to have someone join you when you have developed your own rhythm over so many weeks? Did you resent the intrusion, even by a loved one, or were you excited to share the actual walking with him/her? Also, I've read the thread about how walking to Finisterre "saved" one family's Camino. If you've done it, are you really glad you did?

Thank you!

Hello, when I may say this it's your Camino so I think you have to decide where to begin.
My wife walked the Camino Frances in 2013 alone, we walked last year from Sarria to Finistere together. And last April / May I walked the Camino Frances and my wife walked the last 23 km with me to Santiago and it felt great to see her after 37 day's.
Wish you a wise decision and a Buen Camino, Peter.

 

[Seabird]

If you have the time, SJPdP is a delightful town.

Share with him, but don't be a bore. As he gets into the rhythm of walking and seeing things one step at a time, he will come to understand what you have experienced.

If time is not really a factor, a solution would be to start before SJPP on the "Voie du Puy" or on the "Voie de Vézelay"...

I was really happy to walk to Fisterra, even if my Camino family wasn't.

it felt great to see her after 37 day's

So much wisdom, exactly as I knew I would find. Although my decision must be my own, it's wonderful to have the perspective of others. Thank you.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

If I hadn't walked the Napoleon route I would have regreted it. It is beautiful, and challenging. I am grateful for having seen those views, and proud I never quit along the way. Amd it had never occured to me to stay in Orisson which is a good idea if you are concerned with the physical challenge.

Now, is there a reason you will be arriving from Madrid or Bilbao only? Flying from Paris to Biarritz can be a good alternative, making SJPP easy to start from. I landed in Paris, took the train in and got over my jetlag on that train ride.

Alao love what has been sugested re ealking with your husband: do it! He will understand and be able to share in your experience, and you will have practiced patience and compassion along the way so you'll be fine.

 

[MaryLynn]

Twice, as a 'warmup' to the Pyrenees, I have started in St. Palais on the LePuy Camino (Toronto to Paris, TGV to Dax, overnight in hotel, bus to St. Palais). Except for a steep hill leaving St. Palais, the route meanders through beautiful undulating agricultural and forested land. In St.Jean, I stayed at the wonderful Beleiri and at Orrison. I was over jetlag by then and feeling fit and ready to carry on over the mountain. The next few days are also hard ones going downhill to Roncesvalles and Zubiri, and I was happy that I didn't have to begin my Camino with the Pyrenees the first morning.

 

[Seabird]

Flying from Paris to Biarritz can be a good alternative, making SJPP easy to start from.

I have started in St. Palais on the LePuy Camino

I hadn't considered these options, since I will be returning home from Spain. But I will look into them now! I love France, so a few days there would be lovely. Thank you.

 

[jeffnd]

Hello to all! Many thanks for all the joy I receive when reading your questions and answers. Here are mine:

1. I currently plan to start in Roncevalles, but I am wondering if I will be missing a lot by not starting in SJPdP. Was this segment a "peak" part of the journey for you? (And yes, I am being a little "punny.") Should I add this on? Extra time is not really a factor. I think I was more worried about starting in such a difficult place and the added arrangements of actually getting there. I will be coming from either Madrid or Bilbao.

I really, really enjoyed Valcarlos. Your mileage may vary though.

2. I am walking solo, and my husband will join me in Santiago to spend another two weeks in Spain together. He had expressed some mild interest in walking the last few stages with me, but perhaps a better option is to walk together to Finisterre. But I wonder what it is like to have someone join you when you have developed your own rhythm over so many weeks? Did you resent the intrusion, even by a loved one, or were you excited to share the actual walking with him/her? Also, I've read the thread about how walking to Finisterre "saved" one family's Camino. If you've done it, are you really glad you did?

Thank you!

I wasn't able to get out to Finisterre as I had planned. I haven't regretted that for a single moment.

 

[karen 2016]

Hello to all! Many thanks for all the joy I receive when reading your questions and answers. Here are mine:

1. I currently plan to start in Roncevalles, but I am wondering if I will be missing a lot by not starting in SJPdP. Was this segment a "peak" part of the journey for you? (And yes, I am being a little "punny.") Should I add this on? Extra time is not really a factor. I think I was more worried about starting in such a difficult place and the added arrangements of actually getting there. I will be coming from either Madrid or Bilbao.

2. I am walking solo, and my husband will join me in Santiago to spend another two weeks in Spain together. He had expressed some mild interest in walking the last few stages with me, but perhaps a better option is to walk together to Finisterre. But I wonder what it is like to have someone join you when you have developed your own rhythm over so many weeks? Did you resent the intrusion, even by a loved one, or were you excited to share the actual walking with him/her? Also, I've read the thread about how walking to Finisterre "saved" one family's Camino. If you've done it, are you really glad you did?

Thank you!

Hi Seabird,
My daughter and I will also be walking our 1st Camino in April/May.
We are flying out of Los Angeles 4/6 and have decided to fly to Pamplona via Madrid. I checked into flying into Paris and other airports but the price was better and I preferred flying into a smaller
airports. I thought it would be easier that dealing with finding transportation from Paris or Madrid. Might check into it.
This forum is great, isn't it?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I wasn't able to get out to Finisterre as I had planned. I haven't regretted that for a single moment.

agreed, Fisterra is something on a Camino check list, not a moment in life. Muxia is. And I had never heard of it until Camino 3, and then headed to Muxia

 

[REV]

Originally, I had planned to start at St. Jean Pied de Port.

While scouting the Camino Francés area (by car) before starting, I heard that the first day from SJPdeP was the toughest day many experienced. My family members suggested I prepare given my couch potato condition or start in Pamplona. I started in Roncesvalles with little or no preparation and used the first 100 miles or so for my training. I saw many injured peregrinos who had started in SJPdeP or farther away who were injured (black toes, delays to see doctors, etc.). My Camino Francés starting at Roncesvalles was sufficiently challenging, and I reached Santiago de Compostela (walking slowly) with no blisters and a belt with 5 new punched holes to prevent my pants from dragging on the trail.

I do not know what would have happened if I had started in SJPdeP, but after completing three Caminos this year I have no regrets starting in Roncesvalles rather than SJPdeP.

 

[Seabird]

Originally, I had planned to start at St. Jean Pied de Port.

While scouting the Camino Francés area (by car) before starting, I heard that the first day from SJPdeP was the toughest day many experienced. My family members suggested I prepare given my couch potato condition or start in Pamplona. I started in Roncesvalles with little or no preparation and used the first 100 miles or so for my training. I saw many injured peregrinos who had started in SJPdeP or farther away who were injured (black toes, delays to see doctors, etc.). My Camino Francés starting at Roncesvalles was sufficiently challenging, and I reached Santiago de Compostela (walking slowly) with no blisters and a belt with 5 new punched holes to prevent my pants from dragging on the trail.

I do not know what would have happened if I had started in SJPdeP, but after completing three Caminos this year I have no regrets starting in Roncesvalles rather than SJPdeP.

Very helpful, thanks. I was originally going to start in Sarria, and have been pushing it backwards, settling (I thought) on Roncesvalle. But then...... I will let this decision float for a while.

 

[SeaHorse]

I started in SJPDP. Not much training before, just arrived and walked Napoleon route. Orisson first day, wasn't bad. Next day Roncesvalles took me 17h. I went slow and stopped a lot. Roncesvalles - Zubiri was 19h. Tired like a dog. If I ever repeat Camino, I would do exactly the same again. If I can't do the whole Camino then maybe just till Pamplona. Too beautiful to miss.

A friend joined the last 200km. I.e. after my 600km. The first day was hot and she could walk only 15km, really struggling. I realised I wasn't walking any more, I was gliding over the Earth's surface. We walked as she could, not as the already well trained me could.

We took bus to Finisterre and bus to Muxia and bus back to Santiago. Was good, relaxing.

 

[Seabird]

I started in SJPDP. Not much training before, just arrived and walked Napoleon route. Orisson first day, wasn't bad. Next day Roncesvalles took me 17h. I went slow and stopped a lot. Roncesvalles - Zubiri was 19h. Tired like a dog. If I ever repeat Camino, I would do exactly the same again. If I can't do the whole Camino then maybe just till Pamplona. Too beautiful to miss.

A friend joined the last 200km. I.e. after my 600km. The first day was hot and she could walk only 15km, really struggling. I realised I wasn't walking any more, I was gliding over the Earth's surface. We walked as she could, not as the already well trained me could.

We took bus to Finisterre and bus to Muxia and bus back to Santiago. Was good, relaxing.

Thank you, very helpful. Buen Camino SeaHorse from Seabird!

 

[dcorrea951]

Don't be fooled that the first "leg" is the only uphill you will encounter. If you leave from SJPDP stop at Orisson (reservations required) as it will be a wonderful introduction to the Camino experience. It is a tough uphill, but not the only one, so Orisson is a welcome respite. Start slowly and be sure to smell the roses. It is a profound experience and will affect the rest of your life !

Buen Camino

 

[christy wharton]

Hello to all! Many thanks for all the joy I receive when reading your questions and answers. Here are mine:

1. I currently plan to start in Roncevalles, but I am wondering if I will be missing a lot by not starting in SJPdP. Was this segment a "peak" part of the journey for you? (And yes, I am being a little "punny.") Should I add this on? Extra time is not really a factor. I think I was more worried about starting in such a difficult place and the added arrangements of actually getting there. I will be coming from either Madrid or Bilbao.

2. I am walking solo, and my husband will join me in Santiago to spend another two weeks in Spain together. He had expressed some mild interest in walking the last few stages with me, but perhaps a better option is to walk together to Finisterre. But I wonder what it is like to have someone join you when you have developed your own rhythm over so many weeks? Did you resent the intrusion, even by a loved one, or were you excited to share the actual walking with him/her? Also, I've read the thread about how walking to Finisterre "saved" one family's Camino. If you've done it, are you really glad you did?

Thank you!

If possible the going from or through SJDdP is a must inmo. The later in spring the better weather wise. So much history, scenery, challenge, and a proud "yes" to all who will ask along the way. The transatlantic flights to Dublin does link up nicely (timewise) with a flight to Biarritz and so to SJdP in the afternoon as an option. Good luck in the choice and enjoy all the planning. Buen camino

 

[DurhamParish]

Hello to all! Many thanks for all the joy I receive when reading your questions and answers. Here are mine:

1. I currently plan to start in Roncevalles, but I am wondering if I will be missing a lot by not starting in SJPdP. Was this segment a "peak" part of the journey for you? (And yes, I am being a little "punny.") Should I add this on? Extra time is not really a factor. I think I was more worried about starting in such a difficult place and the added arrangements of actually getting there. I will be coming from either Madrid or Bilbao.

I differ a bit from everyone else. I did start in St. Jean, but if I do it again, I may just start from Roncevalles and skip the going over the mountain. It was an interesting climb, and I'm glad that I did it, but I wouldn't miss it at all if I walk the camino again and start from Roncevalles. To me, leaving from St. Jean is one of those things that you feel you have to do because everyone else does.

Just my two cents worth.

 

[Seabird]

I differ a bit from everyone else.

And I'm so glad you responded. Just the kind of viewpoints I find helpful.

If possible the going from or through SJDdP is a must inmo.

it will be a wonderful introduction to the Camino experience.

Thanks to you both for your responses!

 

[C clearly]

I differ a bit from everyone else. I did start in St. Jean, but if I do it again, I may just start from Roncevalles and skip the going over the mountain. It was an interesting climb, and I'm glad that I did it, but I wouldn't miss it at all if I walk the camino again and start from Roncevalles.

I agree with DurhamParish. Sure, the Pyrenees were great, but day 1 will be thrilling wherever it starts. (I am in the group of party-poopers who say the vistas are undeniably lovely, but your life can still be complete without them. Similarly, though, I'm also in the group that says that route is not as terrible as some accounts suggest.) The important part of the camino comes in the day-after-day-after-day walking and encountering other pilgrims.

 

[Kanga]

@Seabird whether to walk a first Camino starting from SJPDP really depends on fitness IMO, and hiking experience. And also motivation for doing the Camino. I think it helps the decision making process to sort out priorities. If walking a beautiful mountain route is the most important factor, then why not the the Swiss Alps, or New Zealand or Kathmandu?

On this forum you will likely only hear the views of those who made it - but there would be an equal number for whom it ruined their chances of getting to the end. They get to Zubriri, make it to Pamplona or Punta La Reina, but the pain, injuries and discomfort from that first day impels them onto buses, or, worse still, to abandon the whole thing.

If you are fit, particularly if you have done some distance hiking, then go for it, it's a beautiful walk. If not, start in Roncesvales. Even then it is no walk in the park - you will find challenges aplenty for the first ten days or so. Once you have walked the Camino you are then in a much better position to come back and walk from SJPDP. You know what it is like to walk long distances with a pack, how your body copes, what you need to do to nurse it along if necessary.

On the second part of your question, I'm really glad I finished my first Camino as a solo walker. It allowed me to experience the full emotion of the arrival in Santiago. Nothing could detract from the feeling of joy, thankfulness and satisfaction in the accomplishment. I wept tears of joy all the way from the city outskirts to the Cathedral. On the second Camino my husband joined me in Astorga. It was wonderful. I loved his company. He's my best friend and best companion. But it does take a bit of adjusting. I could no longer automatically make my own decisions. I had to consider his needs. The downside for him, and hilarious for me, was that I was so much fitter than he was - and, of course, he could not lose face. He also did not have the emotional history to fully appreciate the arrival in Santiago. It was raining, and all he cared about was having a hot shower! Quite a difference.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

@SeaHorse & @Kanga put the Napoleon route ina perspective I,had never read or considered.

I made the trek in about 9 hrs and thought that was last but impressive. Kanga mentions,people ruining their Camino bupy over doing it by walking this route.,

Seahoese makes me feel like a rock star, but more importanlty quantifies things in a way that let's others figure out what they could expect. Kanga mentions injury, or putting in jeopardy the rest of one's trek. As difficult, huffing and puffing as the hike was, and perhaps worse the way down, I never thought it could be risking the rest of the road.

Perhaps 17 hours in peace and quiet is what it takes. Who knew?

 

[mspath]

I agree with DurhamParish. Sure, the Pyrenees were great, but day 1 will be thrilling wherever it starts. (I am in the group of party-poopers who say the vistas are undeniably lovely, but your life can still be complete without them. Similarly, though, I'm also in the group that says that route is not as terrible as some accounts suggest.) The important part of the camino comes in the day-after-day-after-day walking and encountering other pilgrims.

Amen to that. However another most important experience may be sensing solitary peace.

On every camino there are stretches which seem to be in another world. Past are the hoards of camera-clicking tourists and/or pilgrims as well as any urbane atmosphere with a bar at every corner. All is reduced to simple basics; I am alone on a seemingly endless gravel path beneath the vast dome of an immense sky. The only sound is the companionable crunch of my boots and perhaps distant birdsong.

Happily for me while tramping along and alone I often sense that special moment when everything 'clicks' realizing that this is, indeed, MY way and that all is and will be good. ...Perhaps such secular transcendence felt while walking might be akin to what runners call 'the zone'. Your body can handle the task while your spirit glows with the effort. Neither easy, nor impossible; all simply is. ...Thus, thankfully you continue.

MM

 

[Kanga]

Well put, Margaret.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I did not find that solitary in Santiago was that great. After one to two days, everyone you met on the Camino is pretty much gone! It is a poor place to find new Camino friends, so you are more solitary than you ever were on the pilgrimage. I can become a lot of solitary dining if you stay too long! It can be great, but be prepared for your pilgrimage to be really over. I think that is why walking on to Fisterra has become so popular; it extends the fellowship a bit longer.

 

[Peter Fransiscus]

Hi Seabird,
My daughter and I will also be walking our 1st Camino in April/May.
We are flying out of Los Angeles 4/6 and have decided to fly to Pamplona via Madrid. I checked into flying into Paris and other airports but the price was better and I preferred flying into a smaller
airports. I thought it would be easier that dealing with finding transportation from Paris or Madrid. Might check into it.
This forum is great, isn't it?

Hi Karen, wish you both a wonderful journey and a Buen Camino, Peter.

 

[DurhamParish]

I did not find that solitary in Santiago was that great. After one to two days, everyone you met on the Camino is pretty much gone! It is a poor place to find new Camino friends, so you are more solitary than you ever were on the pilgrimage. I can become a lot of solitary dining if you stay too long! It can be great, but be prepared for your pilgrimage to be really over. I think that is why walking on to Fisterra has become so popular; it extends the fellowship a bit long.

Agree. On my last camino with my nephew, we stayed in Santiago for four nights afterward. The first two days were fun, running into friends we had made on the trail. The third day we began to feel a little lost, and on the fourth day we felt like we were strangers in a strange land and knew we had stayed too long.

 

[Seabird]

day 1 will be thrilling wherever it starts.

I think it helps the decision making process to sort out priorities.

Happily for me while tramping along and alone I often sense that special moment when everything 'clicks' realizing that this is, indeed, MY way and that all is and will be good.

Thank you all for your wisdom. Sorting out priorities is exactly what I need to think about. I feel swept away by my excitement, but perhaps a little "grounding" would be a good thing. The trip, no matter what or where, will be a momentous occasion.

 

[Seabird]

It can be great, but be prepared for your pilgrimage to be really over. I think that is why walking on to Fisterra has become so popular; it extends the fellowship a bit longer.

on the fourth day we felt like we were strangers in a strange land and knew we had stayed too long.

I'm really glad I finished my first Camino as a solo walker.

Very useful thoughts in deciding whether and where to have my husband join me. Thank you.

 

[Seabird]

So, I have made my decisions for the Start and the Finish. I will begin in St. Palais, France, for two days walking to SJPdP. I did not want to begin with the Pyrenees, and I love France, so this seemed like the best solution. I will fly into the city of Pau, arriving April 12, then take a 2-hour bus ride to St. Palais. So, I start walking on April 13!

For my Finish, my husband will join me in Santiago on May 30. So, I am allowing plenty of time to enjoy my time on the Camino. We will walk either to Finisterre, or bus part-way and then walk to Finisterre and then on to Muxia. I am resolved to "hang back," so to speak, to allow him his own experience during this time walking together.

Thanks again to all who took the time to write. It was really helpful.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

So, I have made my decisions for the Start and the Finish. I will begin in St. Palais, France, for two days walking to SJPdP. I did not want to begin with the Pyrenees, and I love France, so this seemed like the best solution. I will fly into the city of Pau, arriving April 12, then take a 2-hour bus ride to St. Palais. So, I start walking on April 13!

For my Finish, my husband will join me in Santiago on May 30. So, I am allowing plenty of time to enjoy my time on the Camino. We will walk either to Finisterre, or bus part-way and then walk to Finisterre and then on to Muxia. I am resolved to "hang back," so to speak, to allow him his own experience during this time walking together.

Thanks again to all who took the time to write. It was really helpful.

Beautiful plan.