Valcarlos or Roncesvalles?

[Alicemc]

Hi all,

I'll preface this request by saying I realise that it is ultimately a personal decision that no-one can make for me, but I am interested to hear what others prefer / would recommend!

I will be starting out from SJPDP on my first camino on Thursday and have yet to decide whether to stop part-way at Valcarlos or tackle the whole "stage" to Roncevalles in one hit. I'm reasonably fit and pretty determined (many would say stubborn...) so even if I find it very challenging that's not necessary what is making me pause; I've heard that Valcarlos is a lovely first stop marking a shorter introductory day so had intended to stop there. For most of my walk (other than Easter weekend) I am not intending to book ahead but given the reports of high numbers this close to the start I'm thinking I should reserve at one - or both - in advance. Is it worth slowing down to enjoy a shorter day & time in V or is the push through to R more rewarding?

Apologies if this repeats earlier questions! Many thanks for any advice

 

[mspath]

I have climbed the Valcarlos route 11 times over the past years always stopping for the night in Valcarlos. The latest slog was mid October 2015 at 76. After leaving the Valcarlos albergue at dawn (around 08:00) it took 5 hours to arrive at Roncesvalles, pooped but proud.

In bad weather ie fog, rain or snow I walked on the left side verges of the N135 road and not followed any passages into or through the wood. You can read those accounts more fully here.

Whatever the season or weather it is important to remember that beyond Valcarlos there are neither services nor water until Roncesvalles. Be prepared!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi all,

I'll preface this request by saying I realise that it is ultimately a personal decision that no-one can make for me, but I am interested to hear what others prefer / would recommend!

I will be starting out from SJPDP on my first camino on Thursday and have yet to decide whether to stop part-way at Valcarlos or tackle the whole "stage" to Roncevalles in one hit. I'm reasonably fit and pretty determined (many would say stubborn...) so even if I find it very challenging that's not necessary what is making me pause; I've heard that Valcarlos is a lovely first stop marking a shorter introductory day so had intended to stop there. For most of my walk (other than Easter weekend) I am not intending to book ahead but given the reports of high numbers this close to the start I'm thinking I should reserve at one - or both - in advance. Is it worth slowing down to enjoy a shorter day & time in V or is the push through to R more rewarding?

Apologies if this repeats earlier questions! Many thanks for any advice

I stopped in Valcarlos in April 2015 and plan to again this year. I say "what's the rush?" if time constraints are not an issue. I have no idea how full the albergue may be in Roncevalles, but if you stop over in V, then you will arrive earlier in R to secure a bed the next day.

 

[Felipe]

This is like "What do you prefer, tea or coffee?"
I have done both routes, first Valcarlos and then the Napoleon. They are just different.
I' say the Napoleon has more spectacular landscapes, and there is "something" about finishing it, a feeling of a particular accomplishment.
Valcarlos is a very pleasant, and easier way. I'd say it is preferable if you are not confident about your endurance, the weather is not fair or it happens that you arrive mid-morning to SJPP (this was my case, my first time).
Each way you decide, buen camino!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

This is like "What do you prefer, tea or coffee?"
I have done both routes, first Valcarlos and then the Napoleon. They are just different.
I' say the Napoleon has more spectacular landscapes, and there is "something" about finishing it, a feeling of a particular accomplishment.
Valcarlos is a very pleasant, and easier way. I'd say it is preferable if you are not confident about your endurance, the weather is not fair or it happens that you arrive mid-morning to SJPP (this was my case, my first time).
Each way you decide, buen camino!

The OP was asking if they should stop for the night in Valcarlos or continue on to Roncevalles all the same day. I didn't get the impression they were considering walking the Napoleon route.

 

[Annie Little]

Firstly let me say .... having walked via Valcarlos last year ... there is no LOWER route... the only way to get over a mountain is UP .... it is still strenuous .... stayed overnight in Valcarlos and didn't regret it ...

Either way ... why rush .... especially first day out .... physically and mentally better to split it up into two days IMHO .... my opinion ... I walked short days the first week and somedays I thought "Darn I could have kept going " BUT those short days led to longer days with blisters after two week s BUT no significant injuries so I think it was a good decision.

I met people that first day who were in such a great rush ... they planned to walk 30 ams daily ....it was a bit sad really they seemed on edge ...
I also met a couple of great guys after leaving Valcarlos and walked over the mountain into Roncessvailles.... We heavy breathed , laughed , stopped to enjoy the view and arrived exhausted into Roncessavilles .... it was Awesome ....

Ultreia

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Firstly let me say .... having walked via Valcarlos last year ... there is no LOWER route... the only way to get over a mountain is UP .... it is still strenuous .... stayed overnight in Valcarlos and didn't regret it ...

Either way ... why rush .... especially first day out .... physically and mentally better to split it up into two days IMHO .... my opinion ... I walked short days the first week and somedays I thought "Darn I could have kept going " BUT those short days led to longer days with blisters after two week s BUT no significant injuries so I think it was a good decision.

I met people that first day who were in such a great rush ... they planned to walk 30 ams daily ....it was a bit sad really they seemed on edge ...
I also met a couple of great guys after leaving Valcarlos and walked over the mountain into Roncessvailles.... We heavy breathed , laughed , stopped to enjoy the view and arrived exhausted into Roncessavilles .... it was Awesome ....

Ultreia

Agree! You gave a great plug for making this a two part walk and said it so much better than I did!

 

[Mark Lee]

I've walked both routes. If you are reasonably fit, start early and the weather cooperates, you should have no problems walking all the way to Roncesvalles.
If you start out and decide when you reach ValCarlos that you want to stop for the night? No biggie. Go ahead and stop. Worse things in life to have to make a decision about.
Just take it all in stride. No need for too much planning. Ain't nothing but a thing.
ultreia

 

[VNwalking]

Much depends on weather and how you feel.
If you have the good fortune of a lovely spring day and have the energy, you can stop in Valcarlos for lunch and spend the night in Roncesvalles. If you chug up the hill into Valcarlos and it feels like enough, just stop. But pause to catch your breath and maybe have a cafe con leche before you make that decision--it's a steep little hill as you enter the village!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Much depends on weather and how you feel.
If you have the good fortune of a lovely spring day and have the energy, you can stop in Valcarlos for lunch and spend the night in Roncesvalles. If you chug up the hill into Valcarlos and it feels like enough, just stop. But pause to catch your breath and maybe have a cafe con leche before you make that decision--it's a steep little hill as you enter the village!

Yes, I remember that hill and was glad I was DONE for the day...but I was a 63 yr old woman!

 

[jsalt]

I am interested to hear what others prefer / would recommend!

Hi, there’s no need to make any reservations at this time of the year, so I would say walk to Valcarlos, stop for coffee, and see how you feel. Then either stay, or walk on. I did stop at Valcarlos, because I always start slow, but it was a loooooong afternoon and evening (not much to do in Valcarlos). A few other pilgrims pitched up late afternoon. I left at daylight, intending to stop again at Roncesvalles, but arrived there before lunch, nobody around, only coach tourists. Not wanting another loooooong afternoon, and feeling strong, I walked on, past Burguete and ended up at Corazon Puro. So my experience is, don’t plan, just go with how you feel.
Jill

 

[Bradypus]

In September I set off from St Jean about 8am to walk to Roncesvalles via Valcarlos. A 72 year old English man who had also stayed at Beilari the previous night set off about the same time intending to spend the night in Valcarlos as he was anxious about his ability to reach Roncesvalles in one day. A first time walker though clearly very fit for his age. I reached Valcarlos at 11am to find Christopher already seated at a cafe table drinking coffee and reading a newspaper. He decided to carry on to Roncesvalles and left a short time before me. I would not have caught up with him before Roncesvalles if he had not stopped to support and encourage a young German man less than half his age who was struggling with a combination of lack of fitness, an oversized pack and shortage of water. I would consider myself a fairly experienced walker who chooses longer days by preference. Even so I crossed paths with Christopher several times in the next few days until we finally parted company a few km after the Alto de Perdon - and he took the lead in walking over it

 

[Deleted member 12253]

Hi all,

I'll preface this request by saying I realise that it is ultimately a personal decision that no-one can make for me, but I am interested to hear what others prefer / would recommend!

I will be starting out from SJPDP on my first camino on Thursday and have yet to decide whether to stop part-way at Valcarlos or tackle the whole "stage" to Roncevalles in one hit. I'm reasonably fit and pretty determined (many would say stubborn...) so even if I find it very challenging that's not necessary what is making me pause; I've heard that Valcarlos is a lovely first stop marking a shorter introductory day so had intended to stop there. For most of my walk (other than Easter weekend) I am not intending to book ahead but given the reports of high numbers this close to the start I'm thinking I should reserve at one - or both - in advance. Is it worth slowing down to enjoy a shorter day & time in V or is the push through to R more rewarding?

Apologies if this repeats earlier questions! Many thanks for any advice

No choice. Valcarous as napoleon route closed till april

 

[Alicemc]

Thanks @mspath

 

[Alicemc]

The OP was asking if they should stop for the night in Valcarlos or continue on to Roncevalles all the same day. I didn't get the impression they were considering walking the Napoleon route.

Yep there's no way I'd attempt an "illegal" crossing via Napolean at this time! :|

 

[Alicemc]

Hi, there’s no need to make any reservations at this time of the year, so I would say walk to Valcarlos, stop for coffee, and see how you feel. Then either stay, or walk on. I did stop at Valcarlos, because I always start slow, but it was a loooooong afternoon and evening (not much to do in Valcarlos). A few other pilgrims pitched up late afternoon. I left at daylight, intending to stop again at Roncesvalles, but arrived there before lunch, nobody around, only coach tourists. Not wanting another loooooong afternoon, and feeling strong, I walked on, past Burguete and ended up at Corazon Puro. So my experience is, don’t plan, just go with how you feel.
Jill

Thanks @jsalt - great to hear no need to make a reservation, makes this a good tip along with @Mark Lee and @Viranani as it was the uncertainty around reservations so early on where the pilgrims just stalking out won't have 'staggered' yet.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

In September I set off from St Jean about 8am to walk to Roncesvalles via Valcarlos. A 72 year old English man who had also stayed at Beilari the previous night set off about the same time intending to spend the night in Valcarlos as he was anxious about his ability to reach Roncesvalles in one day. A first time walker though clearly very fit for his age. I reached Valcarlos at 11am to find Christopher already seated at a cafe table drinking coffee and reading a newspaper. He decided to carry on to Roncesvalles and left a short time before me. I would not have caught up with him before Roncesvalles if he had not stopped to support and encourage a young German man less than half his age who was struggling with a combination of lack of fitness, an oversized pack and shortage of water. I would consider myself a fairly experienced walker who chooses longer days by preference. Even so I crossed paths with Christopher several times in the next few days until we finally parted company a few km after the Alto de Perdon - and he took the lead in walking over it

Well, Christopher, whose age was 72, definately put this Chris at age 63 to shame on that stretch of the route!

 

[Steve Hackman]

I did the "lower" Valcarlos route in April 2015 and quickly discovered past Valcarlos it just kept going up...and up...and up... I thought I would never get to Roncesvalles But I did and a hospitalero sat me down just inside and brought me a large glass of water. I was overcome with gratitude as I had my first experience of how the "camino provides". I will leave again next week (April 13) for my second camino and if the Napoleon Route is not recommended I do hope this time the Valcarlos route will SEEM easier I might just stay on the N-135 this time. Anyone have thoughts on that?

 

[mspath]

You bet! See what I wrote in the the second post above!

Carpe diem and Buen camino!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I did the "lower" Valcarlos route in April 2015 and quickly discovered past Valcarlos it just kept going up...and up...and up... I thought I would never get to Roncesvalles But I did and a hospitalero sat me down just inside and brought me a large glass of water. I was overcome with gratitude as I had my first experience of how the "camino provides". I will leave again next week (April 13) for my second camino and if the Napoleon Route is not recommended I do hope this time the Valcarlos route will SEEM easier I might just stay on the N-135 this time. Anyone have thoughts on that?

I loved the Valcarlos route and took the wooded alternate paths whenever the Brierley guide showed those, however I had no rain. The stretches I walked on that road were ok, but the traffic does fly by quickly. I prefer to avoid it again this year if the weather allows.