Visit to Monasterio de Santo Domingo de Silos

[dfitzg773]

I am planning to walk from SJPP in mid September. Thought it might be a nice rest day / side trip to go to Silos from Buros to see Monasterio and hear the chanting monks. Has anyone taken a bus from Burgos to Silos? How frequent are the busses? Is it worth the side trip to Silos?

Dan
Chicago

 

[mspath]

Dan,

It is splendid.

For buses and more see Forum topic el-camino-frances/topic10662.html.

For the Monastery see http://www.abadiadesilos.es

Buen Camino,

Margaret

 

[scruffy1]

Hi Dan

I did the trip this spring, off season, one bus a day leaving around 1630 or 1700 from the bus station in Burgos. There is a stop on the street but I couldn't find it! The ride is about an hour and hour and a half depending on the number of passengers. It is a rural route, a smaller than expected bus and may stop at any crossroads, village, or cowbarn along the way, the driver and everyone on board are well acquainted. You will arrive in time to find a room and run to the church to hear them singing at vespers. The return trip leaves early say 0730 - 0800 so plan two nights if you want to see the monastery (you do!) and enjoy the little village. Accomodation? The main road is dotted with little pensions, nothing to write home about, right at the entrance to the village over on the right hand side is a structure marked “albergue”, from the outside, the place was not tempting. The singing is divine.

 

[Lydia Gillen]

Hi Dan,

It is a great idea to visit Santo Domingo de Silos, but as Scruffy says you need to stay two nights to really experience it all. It is a workers bus leaving Burgos bus station at 5.30 pm. (I think) and leaving Sancto Domingo de Silos at 8.30 am (I think)

Each time I went I booked in for two nights but stayed three as I was enjoying it so much. It is a very special spiritual experience.

John Brierly gives places and phone numbers in his older guides but not in the 2011 guide. I will send them to you in a PM.

Buen Camino,

Lydia

 

[scruffy1]

Hi Dan, me again

2 small things:
The bus station is a five minute walk across the bridge from the cathedral, through Arco Santa Maria. The tourist info as a timetable but they are not always up to date and correct! Do trouble yourself to walk over and ask at the bus station as to times of departure and return.
In Burgos you must stop by the Los Huelgas Monastery, it’s located off the Camino a few hundred yards and may be visited by guided groups only and is also a fascinating place. Plan well again, the first stop beyond Burgos – Hornillos – is a bottleneck should there be many pilgrims leaving Burgos, stop and see the monastery but don’t plan a full stage, stop at Rabe de las Calzados or even Villalbilla but don’t continue on to Hornillos, you may find it late in the day, the albergue completo and then find yourself tired and facing another 6 odd k to Spartan San Bol or another 11K on to Hontanas.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

The bus from Burgos leaves at 1730, and returns the next morning at 0730. It arrives in time for vespers, but leaves before you can tour the cloisters, so you need two days to do the whole thing. There is a nice nature trail behind the church for a day walk if you stay.

One possibility is to rent a car with three other pilgrims, and drive. The Hertz (on the main street by the bus station) quote for a holiday rate, presumably higher than normal, was 85E for a day plus gas.

 

[sulu]

Thanks very much for this thread and all who have posted useful information, also for the lead back to the previous thread where Falcon posted a ?? is it a URL?? to the bus company, sorry I'm technologically challenged.

I also want to visit Silos next time I am in Burgos but I had got it into my head that there were no buses and taxi was the only way. I had looked in all sorts of places but hadn't asked here, or checked if the question had already been asked because I was so sure i knew the answer :?
So, once again, thanks to you all. Now I'll plan for 2 nights in Silos
Sue

 

[Deleted member 3000]

The morning return bus from Santo Domingo de Silos now seems to be 1000 instead of 0730 or 0830. I don't think that gives time to tour the cloisters, but it allows for a more leisurely breakfast! There is no Sunday or holiday service.

The cloisters are open from 1000 to 1300 Tuesday through Sunday (1200 to 1300 Sunday); closed Monday.

 

[manifestdestinyLISA]

I would love to visit there too! Hope to make it there as well...I have a Silos chant Cd that transports me to heaven! It must be sooo beautiful to hear in person..

Pace BENE,
lISA

 

[Lydia Gillen]

Inside the church can be very cold, particularly noticible on hot days so be sure to bring your warm fleecy or top. Traditionally monks always put on a cloak when going into the church. I know why now

The monks in Silos produced a CD some time back, just to make their form of prayer known to the wider world. Much to their surprise it became a best seller. In order to respond to the very many who started to come they now sing some of the "Hours" in Spanish. They are called 'hours because traditionally they prayed at the first hour of day , the third hour, the sixth hour the ninth hour, evening vespers,' Complin' last thing at night and 'Matins' in the middle of the night when life is at a low ebb for most people. During the course of the week they would pray all of the 150 Psalms and also listen to various readings from the bible and sing a hymn at the end of each hour and also included in some hours were various canticles like the Benedictus originally said by Zacary, and the Magnificat said by Mary at the visitation.

 

[scruffy1]

One absolutely last word from me, the monks are very popular all over Europe and indeed the world, they are often away giving performances, before you set aside 2-3 days to go down there and the bus ride, call to make sure they are there! I remained there an extra day in order to hear them since on the day of my arrival the monks were in Frankfurt and while the "backup" monks were good, that next day was paradise.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

they would pray all of the 150 Psalms

They have a printed program that lists the psalms being sung. I think it was a libretto, but I could not actually follow the words, and one psalm sounded pretty much like the next, so if you missed a change, you were on the wrong page. I am not sure you need to understand the words to enjoy the music. The "choir" consisted of about two monks from each decade of life, from 20's to 80's. Afterwords men by prior arrangement can dine and stay with the monks.