Walking in November - where?

[Monarda]

Dear friends, I'm preparing for my first Camino. I've gotten a delayed start and will be starting in the last week of October. I had planned for the Primitivo, but wonder if that is unwise in November. (Is there any reason to anticipate worse weather in that area than anywhere else?) Can experienced friends make a suggestion? I plan to fly from the US to Madrid (or... wherever necessary) & take the train to the appropriate starting town. I don't like crowds and am an experienced wilderness backpacker - I've heard the Frances has a lot of road/city walking that can be unpleasant. I speak Spanish, but not Portuguese, am a budget solo traveler, and would prefer to not make advance reservations for hostels/albergues. Thank you!

 

[C clearly]

Why not the Frances?

 

[trecile]

Why not the Frances?

I agree. At this time of year the Francés has the best infrastructure, and few crowds.

 

[RJM]

Ditto on the Frances.
More infrastructure in the off season so to speak and a lot less pilgrims. It will be nice.
As far as weather goes no matter which route you choose it is what it is, November in Iberia. Nonetheless early enough that you shouldn't experience any weather too extreme, but be prepared for anything.

 

[Sole]

Dear friends, I'm preparing for my first Camino. I've gotten a delayed start and will be starting in the last week of October. I had planned for the Primitivo, but wonder if that is unwise in November. (Is there any reason to anticipate worse weather in that area than anywhere else?) Can experienced friends make a suggestion? I plan to fly from the US to Madrid (or... wherever necessary) & take the train to the appropriate starting town. I speak Spanish, but not Portuguese, am a budget solo traveler, and would prefer to not make advance reservations for hostels/albergues. Thank you!

Hi! I’ll be in the same situation and start the camino frances late days of october. After searching and asking I ve decide that Camino Frances is the best equipped with doable stages served with a lot of albergue (you can check them opening periodo but you have very a lot of choices in these stages! Also with groceries, and everything you could need on your way. Same as me, I prefer to live the camino day by day avoiding any kind of reservation

 

[Tincatinker]

Dear friends, I'm preparing for my first Camino. I've gotten a delayed start and will be starting in the last week of October. I had planned for the Primitivo, but wonder if that is unwise in November. (Is there any reason to anticipate worse weather in that area than anywhere else?) Can experienced friends make a suggestion? I plan to fly from the US to Madrid (or... wherever necessary) & take the train to the appropriate starting town. I speak Spanish, but not Portuguese, am a budget solo traveler, and would prefer to not make advance reservations for hostels/albergues. Thank you!

I like to disagree with as many members of this forum as is possible under any given set of circumstances but this time I’m on a loser. Your first Camino? The Primitivo in November?
Nah! Fly to Madrid, take the train to Pamplona. Walk the Frances. Enjoy!

 

[Monarda]

Any experience with the Invierno?

 

[Tincatinker]

Any experience with the Invierno?

Yes. See my post above

The issue with the Invierno, as with most other routes in Winter is accommodation. The Frances makes that bit relatively easy making the rest of it relatively easy too

 

[Monarda]

Right, okay... one technical question - I had planned to bring a sleeping bag for the Primitivo but is that needed in albergues on the Frances?

 

[dbier]

Sleeping bag depends on whether you sleep hot or cold. I have heard that some albergues dont have heat. The six privates I stayed in certainly did not have A/C.

IMHO, three challenges with the Primitivo in Nov, mostly described above. Forgive me while I elaborate.

1. Spanish regulations discourage "wild" camping. Especially on the early stages of the Primitivo, albergues even in summer can be somewhat spaced out - particularly if the weather permits you to go over Hospitales. And I have to tell you, much of the early stages spent a lot of time either in between cow pastures, or (I suspect) on their edges. I was not often sure that I knew who owned the land I was walking past. But it wasn't public.

This is why people keep emphasizing the potential lack of accommodations in winter.

2. Even if you are able to find an open albergue each night, your ability to find an open café, bar, restaurant, grocery store, or water source is not guaranteed. Particularly on Sunday and Monday.

3. Finally, although they're not high mountains, the Cantabrícos * are* mountains. With changeable weather patterns not available in any forecast. Even in September, us peregrinos frequently experienced weather that * wasn't * in the forecast.

If this really is your first Camino, let alone your first winter Camino, and you don't speak Portuguese, pick the Frances. Enjoy the Primitivo challenge in a better season.

 

[truenorthpilgrm]

I've heard the Frances has a lot of road/city walking that can be unpleasant

Not necessarily. Though I haven't walked the Norte or Porgutues, I've heard those routes do have quite a bit of pavement walking. I've walked the Frances 3x; I would say it definitely has more dirt/country roads, with the expected pavement occurring walking in and out of larger cities.

If it's your first time, 100% recommend the Frances. I'm a big fan of that route during late fall. You don't need to prebook all accommodations 30 days out, however if you simply phone (or WhatsApp) the day before to see if an albergues is open, should be just fine. There is always a bed somewhere! This website is a great resource for winter albergues that choose to remain open year-round.

Buen camino!

 

[Monarda]

Thanks y'all, this is super helpful.

 

[C clearly]

- I had planned to bring a sleeping bag for the Primitivo but is that needed in albergues on the Frances?

Yes, unless you planning for 100% private rooms where bedding in supplied.

 

[TrvlDad1]

Dear friends, I'm preparing for my first Camino. I've gotten a delayed start and will be starting in the last week of October. I had planned for the Primitivo, but wonder if that is unwise in November. (Is there any reason to anticipate worse weather in that area than anywhere else?) Can experienced friends make a suggestion? I plan to fly from the US to Madrid (or... wherever necessary) & take the train to the appropriate starting town. I don't like crowds and am an experienced wilderness backpacker - I've heard the Frances has a lot of road/city walking that can be unpleasant. I speak Spanish, but not Portuguese, am a budget solo traveler, and would prefer to not make advance reservations for hostels/albergues. Thank you!

Admire your spirit. Late winter early Spring is best for me. I don’t book ahead and have never not found accommodation where I chose to stop. Sometimes I’ve had to ask around a bit; usually a local bar will know of a place, or offer a room. However, I take a four season sleeping bag to supplement the accommodation linens. Buen Camino!

 

[Monarda]

Hey folks, just wanted to share an update here. I made the call to stick with Plan A; started in Oviedo on the 26, in Tineo now. It is fine. Many of the private albergues in intermediate towns are closed, so the staging is a bit limited. About 6 others moving at this pace. Day 1 was quite rainy; it’s been mild since then.

 

[dbier]

Good luck...the trickiest parts are ahead.

 

[Monarda]

Indeed. Good day on Los Hospitales today. One more sunny day in the forecast then rain rain rain.

 

[Monarda]

FYI, in case anyone following this is currently on the Primitivo, Ferreira and As Seixas lost power this evening in the storm. Plan with caution for tomorrow as they may not have it back.

 

[dbier]

Have you finished?

 

[Monarda]

Have you finished?

Yes! To Santiago and Finisterre. It was doubtful for awhile - a wintry storm passed through Fonsagrada area - but was able to recover my nerves and press on. Rest days - and dry socks - do wonders for the soul. But wow, I would not recommend a Rain-vember Camino.