Walking into and out of Bilbao

[ramble-on]

I'm going to be walking the Norte/Primitivo/Finisterre in June/July - made my flight reservations a couple of days ago! Can't wait.

I almost always miss one or more of the arrows/shells in big cities - there are so many distractions! From what I've read, the way into Bilbao might be a bit muddled with lots of twists and turns, and at the end of a long day (I'll probably be starting that day at Gernika) I'd prefer not to wander too much.

So, is the camino well-marked on the way in, and is the albergue de peregrinos well-advertised? Also if anyone has a link to a map of Bilbao with the actual trail marked on it that I can print off, that would be a big help! Thanks.

Dick

 

[Deleted member 34316]

Yes, the Camino can be confusing in Bilbao. Even the Spaniards confirm that.
Many pilgrims decide to follow the right bank of the river instead of the original Camino to avoid confusion.
The pilgrim's albergue is rather far from the center, on the hill - 60, Calle Kobeta. You can see the location of the albergue on this bus map.
Download the map here
Some pilgrims even take this bus (58) to get from downtown to the albergue and to return back to downtown next day.

In case you wanted to stop in Zamudio, 6 km before Bilbao, I can recommend a nice pilgrim- friendly place (not an albergue) that I stayed in.

Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

I think Bilbao is such a nice city that it might be worth a non-albergue night to enjoy the old part of town, walking along the river to see the Guggenheim, etc. The Bilbao albergue is about 4 km from the cathedral and the old part, on the way out of town. When I walked the Camino Olvidado two years ago (it starts in Bilbao) we stayed at the Pensión de la Fuente, double rooms about 35 €. Family run, very nice place, and the tapas places in the area are great! It´s also very close to the cathedral, where you can pick up the arrows. The Norte and the Olvidado split a few km on after you cross the river.

 

[AJ]

I agree with Laurie. I stay in the old town at pension Mendes which can be booked through Booking.com. It is a short distance from the cathedral. The albergue is a long way from the centre. You also might consider taking the metro to Portugalette.

 

[Llew]

Walked Norte May/June 2015 and in Bilboa stayed at Ganbera hostel which is located in the old town and handy to cathedral and museum and 50 metres from metro station.. Cost was E17.50 per night which covered linen and blankets, free wifi, free breakfast and tea & coffee all day and individual lockers in the 4, 6 or 8 person rooms.. Also has laundry & cooking facilities and 24 hour reception. Located at Prim Kalea, 13-bajo, phone 944053930 and you can book ahead. Hostel very clean and can recommend.

 

[ramble-on]

Great suggestions, and thank you all. I do like the idea of staying in the old central part of the city. I didn't realize the albergue is so far out - it's too far from the parts of the city I want to see. Plus, I may take a rest day in Bilbao, and the albergue's not going to let me stay two nights. AJ, I think The Northern Caminos guidebook also makes the suggestion to consider the metro to Portugalete as the camino's poorly way marked and not very interesting, and I'll likely do that.

If anyone has a link to a map with the Camino into Bilbao breadcrumbed, I'd like that, or if I'm over-reacting, and it's not as bad as I think it may be, please tell me!

 

[ramble-on]

Oops. Problem solved, I just saw the thread "Camino del Norte Detailed City Maps" and Laurie's link to a Wikiloc map for the route into Bilbao.

 

[spursfan]

In case you wanted to stop in Zamudio, 6 km before Bilbao, I can recommend a nice pilgrim- friendly place (not an albergue) that I stayed in.

Buen Camino!

Can you please give the name of the pilgrim-friendly place in Zamudio, thanks

 

[Deleted member 34316]

Sure! It is called Casa Rural Matsa. Normally the rooms are kind of expensive, but if you have the credencial, they charge pilgrims 22 euro/person for shared double. And if you happen to walk solo, you may still get a single room for 22 if there are no other pilgrims to share (I did).
I got the directions to that place from the hospitalero in Lezama albergue which was overfilled in the summer and there was really no more place to sleep. The address of the Casa Rural also says Lezama, but in fact it is closer to Bilbao, in Zamudio. The reviews and the map should be somewhere HERE

 

[peregrina2000]

AJ, I think The Northern Caminos guidebook also makes the suggestion to consider the metro to Portugalete as the camino's poorly way marked and not very interesting, and I'll likely do that.

I walked the Norte many years ago, but the way out of Bilbao was unforgettable. I had already spent a few days there before starting the Norte in Irun, so I didn't stop on my way back. I don't know if the route has been changed or not. But itwent through some areas with very substandard housing, some industrial ruins, and finally through a big apartment building that was occupied by squatters. There were obviously drug deals going on, with a few flashy BMWs (then, still a relative rarity in Spain) zooming in and out. Just foud my earlier report of this, so I'll paste it in, but I am hopeful the route has changed:

Lezama to Portugalete (32 km). Walking through Bilbao and through a very industrial, ugly part to Barracaldo, and then on through Sestao (where we walked through a scary site with a 6 or 7 story building that had been abandoned and was being occupied by families and lots of men. Looked like some not so good things were happening there, we saw a couple of fancy new BMWs come down and quickly leave, so we assumed there were drugs involved). Portugalete is actually the last stop on the Bilbao metro line and we met others who instead of taking the roundabout way we did, just walked straight from Bilbao to Portugalete, which is probably 15 km (?). There is no albergue here, though.

 

[ramble-on]

The Northern Camino guidebook talks about 3 possible routes out of Bilbao - the first, that follows the west side of the Río Nervión mentions skirting San Vicente de Baracaldo and going through Sestao. It appears, however, to follow some pretty major roads very close to the river, so I think the route must have been changed away from the route you took, which sounds very unsavory. There is also a variant to the east of the river which may be ok but it's (from google maps) about 13km of highway walking to Portugalete. I think my first choice will be the Metro. I'd rather spend the time it would take to walk the road on the beach at La Arena!

 

[Anniesantiago]

I think Bilbao is such a nice city that it might be worth a non-albergue night to enjoy the old part of town, walking along the river to see the Guggenheim, etc. The Bilbao albergue is about 4 km from the cathedral and the old part, on the way out of town. When I walked the Camino Olvidado two years ago (it starts in Bilbao) we stayed at the Pensión de la Fuente, double rooms about 35 €. Family run, very nice place, and the tapas places in the area are great! It´s also very close to the cathedral, where you can pick up the arrows. The Norte and the Olvidado split a few km on after you cross the river.

Besides the Guggenheim, there is a fantastic Museu de Bella Artes there. Last time they had young Murillo and I loved it even more than the Guggenheim.
I agree, Bilbao is worth a 2 day stay.

 

[peregrina2000]

Besides the Guggenheim, there is a fantastic Museu de Bella Artes there. Last time they had young Murillo and I loved it even more than the Guggenheim.
I agree, Bilbao is worth a 2 day stay.

I had to remind myself of what was in that museum, here are the highlights:https://www.museobilbao.com/obras-maestras-listado.php

Wednesdays, it's free, and always free if you are an educator and have an ID that establishes that. Otherwise, 7 €.

I will make the low-brow comment that the collection inside the Guggenheim left me cold. There was one room filled with sunflowers dipped in lead, which is a technique sure to take the joy out of sunflowers! But the outside, wow, that's wonderful, walking around, climbing up and down on the bridge to get the different vantage points, it's really something.

Guggenheim entrance fee is 13 €.

My preferred way to spend an afternoon in Bilbao would be to enjoy the inside of Bellas Artes and the outside of the Guggenheim, and they are about a 10 minute walk apart from one another.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I had to remind myself of what was in that museum, here are the highlights:https://www.museobilbao.com/obras-maestras-listado.php

Wednesdays, it's free, and always free if you are an educator and have an ID that establishes that. Otherwise, 7 €.

I will make the low-brow comment that the collection inside the Guggenheim left me cold. There was one room filled with sunflowers dipped in lead, which is a technique sure to take the joy out of sunflowers! But the outside, wow, that's wonderful, walking around, climbing up and down on the bridge to get the different vantage points, it's really something.

Guggenheim entrance fee is 13 €.

My preferred way to spend an afternoon in Bilbao would be to enjoy the inside of Bellas Artes and the outside of the Guggenheim, and they are about a 10 minute walk apart from one another.

I absolutely agree with your opinion of the Guggenheim.
I'd save the €13 and just enjoy the OUTSIDE, which is more interesting, in my opinion!

 

[ramble-on]

The Guggenheim has always struck me as amazing, and I'd like to spend time absorbing it from as many different vantages as possible. Even if the art inside isn't so inspiring, it might be worth the price of admission, just to see how the inside space is designed and used and how light gets in plays on the structure and exhibits.

 

[spursfan]

Sure! It is called Casa Rural Matsa. Normally the rooms are kind of expensive, but if you have the credencial, they charge pilgrims 22 euro/person for shared double. And if you happen to walk solo, you may still get a single room for 22 if there are no other pilgrims to share (I did).
I got the directions to that place from the hospitalero in Lezama albergue which was overfilled in the summer and there was really no more place to sleep. The address of the Casa Rural also says Lezama, but in fact it is closer to Bilbao, in Zamudio. The reviews and the map should be somewhere HERE

Thanks, I stayed there - got the last room on a fiesta night just out of range of the late night/early morning music concert that kept those in the albergue awake
I didn't ask for any pilgrim discount as I was very happy to get the room

 

[spursfan]

The Northern Camino guidebook talks about 3 possible routes out of Bilbao - the first, that follows the west side of the Río Nervión mentions skirting San Vicente de Baracaldo and going through Sestao. It appears, however, to follow some pretty major roads very close to the river, so I think the route must have been changed away from the route you took, which sounds very unsavory. There is also a variant to the east of the river which may be ok but it's (from google maps) about 13km of highway walking to Portugalete. I think my first choice will be the Metro. I'd rather spend the time it would take to walk the road on the beach at La Arena!

I disagree about taking the Metro - yes it's dull and boring walking up to Portugalete on the road near the river but why not take the rough with the smooth

 

[peregrina2000]

I disagree about taking the Metro - yes it's dull and boring walking up to Portugalete on the road near the river but why not take the rough with the smooth

I also prefer to walk in and out of cities, it gives a much fuller picture of Spain, IMO. My question, spursfan, is whether the routed Camino now tracks the direct route out to Portugalete, essentially following the metro line, or whether it still goes through Barracaldo and Sestao -- that route would put a little edge into the "dull and boring", since it is one time on any camino that I felt a little threatened. We had to walk past an abandoned, window-less 6 or 7 story building that had lots of people living in it. It was a fairly creepy experience.

 

[AJ]

I disagree about taking the Metro - yes it's dull and boring walking up to Portugalete on the road near the river but why not take the rough with the smooth

Because you don't have to.

 

[camino07]

We walked on the right hand side of the river up to Portugalette and then took the midair ferry back across. No problems with this can't get lost ,just keep the river on your left.

 

[Alan Pearce]

Am I the only one who took the lift down in to the city? And who caught the escalator in the middle of the street in Portugalete to avoid the worst of the steep climb out? Surely not.

Alan

Be brave. Life is joyous.

 

[spursfan]

I also prefer to walk in and out of cities, it gives a much fuller picture of Spain, IMO. My question, spursfan, is whether the routed Camino now tracks the direct route out to Portugalete, essentially following the metro line, or whether it still goes through Barracaldo and Sestao -- that route would put a little edge into the "dull and boring", since it is one time on any camino that I felt a little threatened. We had to walk past an abandoned, window-less 6 or 7 story building that had lots of people living in it. It was a fairly creepy experience.

I wouldn't know as I went along the right-hand side of the river

 

[Deleted member 34316]

I think nowadays most pilgrims walk on the right hand side of the river, I walked that way too. It is shorter than walking through Baracaldo, the way it is totally flat, and what was quite important in the summer, if you walk before noon, you walk in the shade from the buildings. And it is not along a highway, as someone mentioned, it is just a long city street. It was OK. I didn't notice any creepy areas. There are a few yellow arrows, not many, but you just go straight all the time until you reach the famous iron bridge which connects Getxo and Portugalete.

 

[camino07]

Am I the only one who took the lift down in to the city? And who caught the escalator in the middle of the street in Portugalete to avoid the worst of the steep climb out? Surely not.

Alan

Be brave. Life is joyous.

Yes we were surprised and happy to see the escalators right up to the top of the city street.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

The Northern Camino guidebook talks about 3 possible routes out of Bilbao - the first, that follows the west side of the Río Nervión mentions skirting San Vicente de Baracaldo and going through Sestao. It appears, however, to follow some pretty major roads very close to the river, so I think the route must have been changed away from the route you took, which sounds very unsavory. There is also a variant to the east of the river which may be ok but it's (from google maps) about 13km of highway walking to Portugalete. I think my first choice will be the Metro. I'd rather spend the time it would take to walk the road on the beach at La Arena!

The walk along the river parallels the metro and is in an industrial and yuky part of town. I was in such a hurry to leave the hostel I was in that I found myself walking at 5am or so. Not very wise. But there is no major road, just your typical area around a working port. Nice to know you can always change your mind and hop in the metro.

 

[ramble-on]

The way I look at it, human nature being what it is, a thousand years ago a pilgrim would likely have been very happy to hitch a ride on a passing ox cart, were he lucky enough to be offered one. I've done my share of walking through industrial slums and urban wastes (and vice versa), and am not at all fussed about missing the 10 or 12km stretch out of Bilbao. But it boils down to a personal choice and I quite understand why some will choose to walk every step to SdC while I won't.

 

[peregrina2000]

I think nowadays most pilgrims walk on the right hand side of the river, I walked that way too. It is shorter than walking through Baracaldo, the way it is totally flat, and what was quite important in the summer, if you walk before noon, you walk in the shade from the buildings. And it is not along a highway, as someone mentioned, it is just a long city street. It was OK. I didn't notice any creepy areas. There are a few yellow arrows, not many, but you just go straight all the time until you reach the famous iron bridge which connects Getxo and Portugalete.

This is great information for leaving Bilbao. I looked at the Eroski site and it looks like the route that is on their guide is exactly the route I followed way back when. http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/etapa-de-bilbao-a-portugalete

The GPS routes on wikiloc almost all show a path on the left side of the river, yet Arthur tells us most pilgrims walk on the right side. So this is definitely a place for a conscious heads up to the route you will follow when you leave town, rather than just going on auto-pilot and following the arrows.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[peregrina2000]

The Northern Camino guidebook talks about 3 possible routes out of Bilbao - the first, that follows the west side of the Río Nervión mentions skirting San Vicente de Baracaldo and going through Sestao. It appears, however, to follow some pretty major roads very close to the river, so I think the route must have been changed away from the route you took, which sounds very unsavory. There is also a variant to the east of the river which may be ok but it's (from google maps) about 13km of highway walking to Portugalete. I think my first choice will be the Metro. I'd rather spend the time it would take to walk the road on the beach at La Arena!

Hi, ramble-on, hope you don't mind but I changed the title of the thread to say "Walking into and out of Bilbao" since I had sort of derailed it a bit earlier.

I hadn't focused on this post till now, thanks for the clarification. Laurie

 

[ramble-on]

Laurie, Not at all! When I asked the question, I hadn't any idea getting out of Bilbao was also convoluted. It's good to understand all the options beforehand.

 

[Deleted member 34316]

The GPS routes on wikiloc almost all show a path on the left side of the river, yet Arthur tells us most pilgrims walk on the right side.

Well, that was just my opinion, I said "I think..." - maybe the statistics prove something else. The Spanish pilgrims I met on that day in majority followed the river - first on the left side, until, say, Guggenheim museum, then they crossed to the other side and continued to walk on the right side, and I just followed them. They also told me the Camino through Baracaldo is longer and complicated. Thats all I know....

 

[Deleted member 34316]

I measured the distance of the path I walked, from the Bilbao Old Town to Portugalete bridge using Google Earth: it is 12.2 km and it is as flat as it can get (no surprise, because you walk along the river)
The distance between the same two points using Eroski version is 19.7 km and has two hills on the way, as it is presented in this picture. So the original Camino is 7.5 km longer.

 

[unadara]

Due to a series of events my small group of pilgrims took the Metro into Bilbao (one medical, other boot replacement). So we had a half-day there. We decided to walk along the right of the river into Portugalete and because of this we stayed in a very good "hostel" on that side. It was located very near a bridge you can walk over to the Guggenheim (which was where I went/outside only). Our walk along the river was grand (windy) we enjoyed the Ferry/bridge/elevator crossing. We went into the tourist office and got a Number for a Pension, very good value/location. And we enjoyed our evening here. Nicely located for walk next day. I loved the Coastal parts here, need to check is the bridge open on the beach,? next day? it was closed for repairs, often is after stormy weather. It is a long way to walk back and around. Sorry for not being specific, I'd have to look up records.