Walking the Camino this December.

[ktchnofdngr]

Hey, all.

I am planning on leaving Sunny Texas this December 6th via Paris for my camino (with a short stop in Lourdes first). I will actually start walking on the 9th, and I have four questions.

First, how sparse should I expect fellow pilgrims to be, and since I'm a female walking alone, is there anything that I might need to do to ensure my own safety in addition to the normal precautions of travelling in another country? For instance, I had planned to leave my cell phone at home but bring a spot GPS to make my mom feel better. Should I plan on taking a smart phone that takes sims with me and ditch the spot instead?

Second, I've been doing quite a bit of research about hiking in winter, and I THINK I have a handle on what I will need to bring, but I'm most concerned about whether I am packing enough layers for my trip. At this point, I am planning on wearing/bringing a short-sleeved technical shirt, a long-sleeved technical shirt, a fleece jacket, a light-weight wind/rain breaker, and will likely buy an Altus Poncho in SJPDP (although I have also thought about getting a rain coat instead). For bottoms, I will have running tights and either a hiking skirt or hiking pants plus gaiters (I prefer to hike in skirts, but am concerned about the loss of heat). I have lived along the southern border of the Southwest US since I was 5, so my biggest concern is that I won't be packing warm enough or water-tight enough. Should I plan on another layer for my bottom half, and do I have enough layers for my top half? I am also bringing a fleece scarf, a wool beanie, knit gloves and I'm still looking for some sort of water-proof gloves/mittens (suggestions would be helpful--I need to buy them online, since we only get 7-9 inches of precipitation a year where I live). Should I invest in wool gloves rather than just the nylon knit ones?

Other gear: I have a Big Agnes Fria 15*F rated bag, Columbia waterproof hiking shoes, and an Osprey backpack that is about 35L--I'm trying to get in under 15 lbs, so everything is as lightweight as I can find for my budget....restricting my pack size is part of that strategy.

Third, I have heard that a lot of shops/auberges/bars are closed during Christmas. Could anyone give me information about this, and how to plan for this eventuality? If I remember right, I will be somewhere around Hontanas for the 24th/25th, based on urcamino.com.

Lastly, I'm Catholic, so I am undertaking this as a religious pilgimiage, and I'm wanting to know how often I can expect pilgrim masses in the evening? What about the ease of finding a priest that can hear confession in English?

Thanks All!

 

[tyrrek]

Hi Ruth! I've only been on the Meseta in December, and it's usually been nice and sunny, but crisp and cool, and at night it freezes. The elevated sections of the Camino would be the biggest challenge, and you may have to adapt your plans/route. See other weather-related threads!

Mass times are a bit unpredictable due to priests covering several churches etc. Certainly confession in Santiago Cathedral is no problem, with national flags outside the (open) confessionals showing the languages the priest speaks. I was confessed by a priest who sounded German from his accent, but his English was excellent. Along the Way it's probably quite difficult to find confessions especially in English, but maybe in major towns and cities it's possible.

Buen Camino!

p.s. There are still pilgrims around but nowhere near as many as in summer, so you may want to stay close to others if weather conditions are bad etc.

 

[robertt]

Ruth, a number of us are winter walkers. My approach is very slow (some say the slowest!) and conservative, but I get there. There'll be friends, religious services, shops, accommodation...though you may need to opt for private or compromise arrangements at times.

My policy is never to carry what I can wear, so declare everything a layer. I stay dry with the famous Altus, but mine is the older, stiffer model. Beware of sticky, clingy sil-nylon ponchos and jackets, or anything not completely stable in wind. I find with the Altus I can stick my hands back in the sleeves, which is handy, because even very good gloves become too hard to get on and off and can go spongy in constant rain. Next time I'll take mitts, because my fingers just won't work in the extreme cold, and I'll keep my hands in the Altus sleeves during rain. (Oh, and don't wait for the rain to put rain gear on - it's winter!)

Because the achievement aspect of the Camino is of no interest to me, I can't talk about the best or quickest way to do anything or get anywhere. Many of my tips are individuals preferences rather than good general ideas. If you change your mind about anything, there are good shops and Decathlon outlets along the way, some open in winter.

The main things: the Camino is wonderful in all seasons, just different, and Spain and its people are wonderful. Sometimes in the off-season those people have a little more time for you, especially if they sense you are happy to spend time with them...a winter bonus!

 

[ktchnofdngr]

Robertt,

Thanks for the idea about sticking your hands in your poncho, but I am a pole walker, so that is why I was wanting to get waterproof gloves/mittens. I can walk/hike without them on flat stretches, and my pack has loops for them, but I will need them on the inclines. I am also not adverse to staying private accomodations occasionally, but I am on a budget! Could anyone tell me how much more expensive it is to do this in winter? My goal is to have about $2000 for food/lodging/necessities/emergencies. Will that be enough?

Thank!

 

[ktchnofdngr]

Hi Ruth! I've only been on the Meseta in December, and it's usually been nice and sunny, but crisp and cool, and at night it freezes. The elevated sections of the Camino would be the biggest challenge, and you may have to adapt your plans/route. See other weather-related threads!

Tyrrek,

Thanks for reminding me. I plan to heed the advice of the hospitaleros about weather, especially since I am not familiar with that white fluffy stuff that falls from the sky :wink: I already know that I might have to skip a stage or two because of weather, and I am ok with that. I would rather come home alive on Jan 12th than break my parents' heart, even if it means I have to take a bus to Sarria at some point, then walk the last 100 km. I only have 33 days, and I want to get at least 2 rest days in there someplace, so I am training for higher mileage. As a runner, I have at least a base fitness level, and I will be running a marathon in Oct. with a friend, so I figure following the advice of those in the know will be my best bet. I just want to make sure that I am packing enough to stay warm, but not so much that I sweat terribly and then make myself colder in the long run.

Thanks!

 

[backpack45]

I haven't been on the Camino in December, but I have been on various Camino routes in April, May, Sep. and Oct with plenty of rain and some snow. On the LePuy route in April, I was extremely happy that I had my down jacket and down sleeping bag (2 lbs.). One of the days we were on that trail we met a woman who had been lost and wandered around because the trail markers were covered. This is not your route, but the point is, in winter you have shorter days, fewer accommodations, harsher weather, fewer people on the trail, and less margin for error gear-wise.

I recommend a Smartwool top and bottom--both because they are warmer than synthetics and also because they don't stink and they can be worn for a few days without washing!

Not sure which items you are packing and which wearing at any given time, but I think 15 pounds is too low to include the needed layers. My backpack for spring and fall is 15 pounds and I would feel uneasy about carrying less even then. You also might consider liner gloves as well as wool gloves. Use a trash compactor bag to line your backpack; we use turkey baster bags to keep our down and changes of clothes completely dry. We use the Packa, but I know many also love the Altus.

You have plenty of time before you go so in the meantime, keep up your questions and research including checking into the weather patterns in the Pyrenees and Cantabrian range that time of year.
Buen Camino

 

[mspath]

ktchnofdngr,

The best advice is to BE PREPARED for extreme and varied weather. Nights can be bitter cold with freezing rain or snow; it is important to read the sky for possible storms. Regarding the state of the path and weather forecasts be sure to ask the locals and watch TV reports.

In bad weather many steep descents on the camino would be treacherous and following smaller parallel roads might be necessary. These past two months the Napoleon route from SJPdP to Roncevalles has been filled with several meters of snow and in effect closed to pilgrims thus necessitating the use of the Valcarlos alternate. You can read about this evolving situation in the Forum topic. >> el-camino-frances/topic16961.html Other difficult stretches after future storms might be from Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada or across the Montes de Oca from Villafranca as well as Monte irago and, of course, O Cebriero.

Sillydoll who is a Forum member has compiled encyclopedic information on Winter Walking at >> http://amawalker.blogspot.fr/2009/10/walking-in-winter.html Another good account of winter walking by a Forum member is the current 2013 blog http://agoodwalkunspoiled.blogspot.com/.

Twice during winter caminos I have sat out true blizzards; in Villafranca Montes de Oca, February 25, 26, 2006 and Foncebadón, March 5,6, 2009. Even late last November the climb up to O Cebriero was packed with snow. You can see the snow and read my blog accounts of these three memorable stormstorms at >> http://mermore.blogspot.fr/2011/04/aavmo.html. Luckily open albergues offered welcoming shelter, heat and companionship.

However, not all albergues will be open in December but the hospitaleros usually know who is on the next stage. You will find the welcome at those albergues which are open to be most sincere; generally they will either be heated or have blankets.

Perhaps you would find my Kit list for walking in autumn and winter to be useful for your planning. See >> http://mermore.blogspot.fr/p/kit-and-tips.html

Happy planning and Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith

 

[naplesdon]

I am surprised no one has commented on your budget versus the possibility of inexpensive albergues not being open in December. The weather here is so unpredictable, our winter started early in December 2012 and has lasted way too long into April 2013. Finally on 10 Avril it seems like the first real day of spring and the forecast is for a week without rain and day time temperatures in the 70's.

 

[jstys1]

My all time favorite Camino was in December from Pamplona to Leon in 2005. I never lacked for a place to stay or food to eat. Yes, there were fewer pilgrims - I'd say on average about 2 to 7 per night from my experience.

I did manage to see several small town churches as the locals were preparing their crèches....and in the bigger towns there will probably be an elaborate one set up in the village square.

Mass times are usually an hour earlier than 'summer' times. I always find it very confusing...ask around to get accurate times.

I experienced all kinds of weather...sun, rain, snow and a complete white out which occurred the day after I stopped walking. Leon was covered in about 6 inches of snow. Quite beautiful and festive.

I tried to be in decent sized towns for Christmas Eve and Day. I stayed in a small hotel on Christmas eve...but had a very nice dinner and bars were open on Christmas day for coffee along the way. I did stay in the municipal Albuerge in Hontanas and the local ladies of village made me a delicious dinner of garlic soup, pork loin and fried eggs! With wine and fresh bread, of course.

Have a wonderful time....I'm in Houston, by the way. Let me know if you ever visit here (I assume you are in West Texas based on your comment on average rainfall!). Let me know if you have any more specific questions I can help out with.

Jeff

 

[ktchnofdngr]

Thanks all for your kind advice. I will definitely have to rethink my layers, it seems. I got my camino guide from the Society of St. James in England a couple of weeks ago, and I was already planning on taking the lower alternate routes whenever possible--it just seems like a wise idea, considering that I'm not that familiar with snow. The only exception to that is bypassing O Cebriero, as I'd really like to visit the church there that has relics of a Eucharistic miracle. Even then, if the weather is bad enough, I would even be willing to skip that if it meant finishing my Camino safely--If the weather is bad, I'm not adverse to taking a bus in or out, since I remember reading that some pilgrims got snowed in there this past February. :mrgreen: I may try to increase the amount of cushion I have in my budget for this trip as well, in case I need to find alternate lodging because the albergues are closed or buy extra gear because I'm freezing. One of the things I like about the Camino guide I bought from the Society of St James is that it tells you when Albergues are closed in winter...even so, I will definitely make that one of my standard questions everywhere I stay so that I can get the most up to date information.

Jeff, I live in El Paso, and don't get to Houston very often, but I just might take you up on specific questions in the future.

Blessings,

 

[whariwharangi]

You lose heat where there is a lot of blood near the skin. That would be groin, armpits, and head. You lose about 40% of your body heat through the head. Heat loss through the legs is minimal; skirts and shorts might feel cold but thats not critical in keeping core areas warm. The saying is that if your feet are cold put on a hat.

You'll find that you generate lots of heat while walking; a light fleece should be enough. Wear the raincoat to cut wind. You'll work harder walking in snow; the problem will be to keep from getting soaked with sweat.

Staying dry in cold weather is very important. If you are sweating then take a layer off. You want to target the zone where you are just about uncomfortable with the cold.

I'd recommend ragknit wool gloves. Wool has a reputation for keeping you relatively warm even when its wet.

The scarf, draped over shoulders and chest, is a good idea.

Get rid of the wind breaker and get a good quality rain jacket. A poncho over the rain jacket and pack in heavy rain is not overkill. A rain coat is effective for cutting the wind.

You will need a warmer coat for getting around in the evenings. Perhaps a down coat?

Keep your spare set of clothes (evening set) dry. Bring a waterproof stuff sack.

My trip was from end October to mid December. Many of the albergues were too hot to get into my -10C rated bag. All of the Albergues had blankets. I could have got by with a much lighter sleeping bag.

I found that everything in Spain is closed at the slightest excuse so be prepared for Christmas with a supply of food. I'd suggest arranging to be in a larger community. Hornillos was deserted on a Sunday in early November. The only thing open in Hontanas, three hours up the road, were the Albergues.

A phone would have been useful to call ahead to see if an albergue is open. A couple of places I kept going because the doors were closed with a sign saying call this number ...

Spot is overkill; there are not many places where you could get into trouble too far from local help. I'd check to make sure spot coverage exists in Europe.

I don't know what to recommend with regards to cash. If the albergues are open then Euro2000 should be sufficient. If you end up using a lot of hotels it won't be enough.

 

[ktchnofdngr]

So, I talked to my boss today, and because of the way the workload at work is, leaving in December isn't a good idea...So, I will be taking less time off and going in august/september, probably starting in Burgos instead of SJPDP. More than Likely, I will start walking on Aug. 30th. This means that I no longer have to walk in winter!

Getting excited!!!

 

[Theresa Partington]

Hi Ruth

I love your quote. Thank you.

I am from sunny South Africa and booked to walk the Camino in March 2014. Due to time and work constraints I am seriously considering walking this in December 2013/ January 2014 instead. I am not a wimp but I am a bit nervous - I will be travelling alone and, although the blogs and comments are informative and somewhat reassuring, I've looked at some of the photos...it looks freezing and grey and wet

But if its do-able, I am there!!

Theresa

 

[KinkyOne]

@ktchnofdngr

Few days ago I've made this (attached) list of albergues opened all year. Hope it would be of some help.

Ultreia!