Oct 29 Las Herrerias – O Cebreiro – Fonfria
We had to bring our equipaje down by 0800 and the bar/reception was supposed to be open by 0700. But it was a Sunday so it was still close. Fortunately, there was a Spanish gentleman (he didn’t look like a peregrino) who was also having his bag transported so we both put our bags at the locked entrance of the bar.
The weather forecast was that it would be raining. But when we left it was dry and cold with no wind. Locating the Camino from Las Herrerias was quite easy. All we had to do was follow the signs. Unlike the previous mornings when we left in the dark, this time the sky is lit up and it looked like we were going to have fine weather.
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We expected other peregrinos to be on the trail but for the first half-hour, we were the only ones walking. We heard a peregrina behind us singing but she didn’t overtake us. Another half-hour later, an Irish guy (Richie), who had on this giant earphone, overtook us.
We thought of taking the bicycle trail, which forks from the walking trail. It looked smooth and well-paved (and we did walk on it for a minute) but changed our minds and went back to the walking trail. The girl who was following us had taken the walking trail and was now ahead of us.
Soon we left the road and entered the trail (The road was for cyclists). The trail to O Cebreiro was steep, rocky, and wet. There were rivulets from the previous day and night’s rains that were still flowing freely making walking up the mountain trails difficult. We had to go really slow to negotiate these paths.
On the bright side, the sun was shining through the trees making for some very colorful and dramatic pics.
The steep, wet, rocky trails through the forest eventually gave way to steep but open and rolling trails that provided breathtaking views of the countryside.
We climbed and climbed until we reached La Faba where another peregrino, Chris (Sydney, Australia) came out of nowhere and overtook us. He looked clean and fresh so he must have just come out. He said he was going as far as Triacastela today.
Everything was close in the town although there was a taxi waiting with its engine running. We saw the driver coming out of one of the houses carrying a huge peregrino backpack. I suspect he could be picking it up for luggage transfer.
We climbed some more and another girl just zoomed past us also fresh and clean. We suspect she has also just come out.
Just before the Galician border, we were surprised to see a café at a collection of houses along the trail. Here we saw Richie and the girl just finishing their break and getting back on the trail. In addition, we saw a couple of youthful peregrinos with no walking sticks just starting out.
We decided to bypass this café and went on climbing after these youthful peregrinos.
Soon we were at the marker on the Galician border. There was no one there except us. (We have been lucky with these markers. At Cruz de Ferro we also had the place to ourselves because of the rain. Today it wasn’t raining so maybe it was the lateness of the season)
We finally reached O Cebreiro after three hours of climbing. There was a bagpiper playing at the end of the trailhead where it meets the road. We stopped for some pics and to make a donation.
Here we met Oscar and Claudia (Italy) who was just behind us. We saw them first in Ponferrada pushing an empty wheelchair. (I’m not sure how they got up here with that wheelchair. They probably used the bicycle path) According to Oscar, the wheelchair is symbolic of his mother who is now too sick to come on the Camino. They are videoing every step to show it to her. Claudia has a Go-Pro on strapped to her forehead.
When we visited the church in O Cebreiro we saw Oscar with the wheelchair praying on the altar.
We said our own prayers, lighted a candle, and Tess wrote in the book of prayer intentions. Unfortunately, there was no sello in the church.
We got the sello from the coffee shop just outside the church where we had some coffee and croissants.
On the way down we wanted to make up for lost time. In addition to going slow on the climb, we were taking a lot of pics and videos which we now felt took up too much time.
Fortunately, the trail going down was smooth and not rocky. Two youthful peregrinos jogged past us. After a few minutes, a couple on bicycles also zoomed past us. The trail went up and down as it descended to the motorway below.
The whole morning we had enjoyed beautiful weather but the rain started falling when we reached Hospital de la Condesa.
Soon the trail was parallel to the highway. This went on for a while before the trail forked to the left.
We decided to stick to the highway to make up for lost time. However, walking on the highway made us insecure about not seeing the Camino or any yellow arrows/Camino signs. Plus, none of the highway signs showed our final destination for the day, Fonfria.
We knew we were not lost but for some reason, we felt like we were. I’m not sure how to explain this but I guess there is some comfort on being on the Camino itself versus being on a highway. I’m not sure but it could be a peregrino mindset.
Anyway, we trudged along the highway anxiously looking for the place where it could parallel the Camino again.
After about 30 minutes of walking on the highway we finally saw the Camino again. It was a small truck stop with a café just about an hour from Fonfria.
The good thing that came out of walking on the highway is that we saved some time because the Camino meanders away from the highway before rejoining it. Here we caught up with some of the other peregrinos who were ahead of us.
By this time we were quite hungry so we walked briskly overtaking other peregrinos.
I knew we were close, so I was looking out for road signs saying “Fonfria” but still couldn’t see any.
We finally saw a collection of buildings up ahead and a check with Google Maps indicated that our destination for the day was just minutes ahead. We finally saw a sign saying “Fonfria” just in front of the albergue (A Reboleira - Casa Nuñez).
Fonfria is a small hamlet (according to Ivar’s guidebook there are only about 40 residents. It’s probably much less at this time of the year) and the only sign of activity is around the albergue.
Apart from albergue they have private rooms in a separate building called “Casa Nuñez”. The place is comfortable (they have heating in the rooms) but there is no wifi/internet signal in the rooms although you can get a signal outside. They will be closing for the season in two days.
We checked in, had lunch, and rested. Arlene who started from Vega de Valcarce also checked in about an hour later.
They serve a communal dinner at 1900 in a building with a conical thatched roof across the road from the albergue. (There were about 10 peregrinos in all at dinner)
By this time the rain was belting away, and we were glad to be already indoors, safe and comfortable.
My takeaway for today is that there is some comfort in walking on the Camino itself versus walking on a highway.
Thanks for reading this far. Buen Camino and God bless!
Bani
God bless!
Buen Camino!
).
, but we still have a long way to go.
)
