Sam Hardman
Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2006, 2007 Camino Francés
2017 SJPdP - Belorado
2018 SJPdP - Fisterra/Muxía
2019 Camino Primitivo
For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here. (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation) |
---|
Ethnographic Museum of Grandas de Salime for sure. Opens at 11am so plan.I don't like to overplan my Caminos and usually prefer to just walk until I am tired then stop. But, there are always a few places that are really special and worth planning a visit even if that means finishing a stage a bit early, or walking on a bit longer than usual.
So, for those who have already walked the Primitivo, where should I make a special effort to visit? It could be either an Albergue with a really special atmosphere, or a church, building or place that really stands out.
All suggestions welcome.
Totally agree with Isca-camigo observation about taking the Hospitals route but would recommend you stay at a Albergue Samblismo. It is about 3km past Borres and puts you at the closest spot you can stay before going over the Hospitals route. Javier is a wonderful host and cook, it is a great place to stay he has 4 rooms with only 2 beds and one room for 4. You will need to make a reservation as his reputation as a fabulous stop on the Primitive is growing. Also agree with enjoying the Lugo historic center as a wonderful feeling of being part of the local community watching and eating with all the local families in the main square.
The Hospitales route in its entirety is worth lingering over if the weather allows, something to stop and appreciate at so many places. Lugo historic center in the evening, we did the English speaking tour around the cathedral then instead of going for a stand alone meal we toured cafes and bars and had the complimentary tapa with the glasses of wine, it felt like a living centre with locals, families out doing similar, there is so many places to stop and linger on the Primitivo, you will have a long list quite soon.
No we didn't call but Javier speaks very good English. We emailed him at xavialey@hotmail.com and got a quick response. It is a Donativo and he serves a delicious dinner and Bfk. It is located several kms from Borres and is located about 50 yards past the split and can be reached from either trail. I would recommend taking the split towards Pola de Allende, it is first house you see right on the trail. There is also a short cut through to it from the Hospitales route.@shubertj Thanks for the tip! I have made a note of it.
Did you call to make a reservation? Do you know if they speak English? I am learning Spanish as fast as I can but it is still very basic.
Thanks for thisNo we didn't call but Javier speaks very good English. We emailed him at xavialey@hotmail.com and got a quick response. It is a Donativo and he serves a delicious dinner and Bfk. It is located several kms from Borres and is located about 50 yards past the split and can be reached from either trail. I would recommend taking the split towards Pola de Allende, it is first house you see right on the trail. There is also a short cut through to it from the Hospitales route.
The tarta looks amazing, I'll do my best to find one. I am always keen to try new foods!When you get to A Fonsagrada, do get the Tarta de Fonsagrada. Fortunately, we had a Spanish pilgrim in our group who knew about this delightful treat with ground almonds in the cake.
View attachment 59508
Also, when leaving A Fonsagrada, you climb another steep hill to another hospital called the Hospital de Montouto. This is a wonderful place to linger and most pilgrims miss the very sacred standing stones behind the Hospital, called the Pedras Dereitas. This high pass must have been special for many, many centuries and I loved the energy of the place!
View attachment 59509
If you want to read more about this, it is my day eight on the Primitivo.
Of course, I also loved Lugo and spent a rest day there. I loved Castro, and was able to see this ancient Celtic site in the late afternoon after walking. I adored the Hospitales route on my day five, but it sure was a long way from Campiello to Berdecedo, so @shubertj 's advice is prudent!
Enjoy your Camino!
The tarta looks amazing, I'll do my best to find one. I am always keen to try new foods!
Thanks for the info about the standing stones. I have been reading a lot about the Primitivo and not seen these mentioned before. It must be a very special place.
I've just been reading your blog and am enjoying your writing. You have some great pictures tooI really can't wait to be there myself!
No we didn't call but Javier speaks very good English. We emailed him at xavialey@hotmail.com and got a quick response. It is a Donativo and he serves a delicious dinner and Bfk. It is located several kms from Borres and is located about 50 yards past the split and can be reached from either trail. I would recommend taking the split towards Pola de Allende, it is first house you see right on the trail. There is also a short cut through to it from the Hospitales route.
When you get to A Fonsagrada, do get the Tarta de Fonsagrada. Fortunately, we had a Spanish pilgrim in our group who knew about this delightful treat with ground almonds in the cake.
View attachment 59508
Also, when leaving A Fonsagrada, you climb another steep hill to another hospital called the Hospital de Montouto. This is a wonderful place to linger and most pilgrims miss the very sacred standing stones behind the Hospital, called the Pedras Dereitas. This high pass must have been special for many, many centuries and I loved the energy of the place!
View attachment 59509
If you want to read more about this, it is my day eight on the Primitivo.
Of course, I also loved Lugo and spent a rest day there. I loved Castro, and was able to see this ancient Celtic site in the late afternoon after walking. I adored the Hospitales route on my day five, but it sure was a long way from Campiello to Berdecedo, so @shubertj 's advice is prudent!
Enjoy your Camino!
Yes, when I tried to look it up, I found various terminology, "dolmen," "menhir" and as we know it, "standing stones." This is the best info I could find from the Xunta de Galicia.I didn´t know about the Tarta de Fonsagrada and I missed the Pedras Dereitas when I did my Primitivo. So, thank you for the information.
As pedras dereitas look like the remains of a dolmen.
I really couldn't give you a good answer, but my guess would be a couple a days ahead could be enough.How far in advance do you think you have to reserve for Samblismo? Can it just be a day or so before?
Gorgeous photos, Judy!My favourite stage on the Primitivo last month was from Tineo to Campiello (15.1 km) because of the stunning scenery and the Santa Maria de Obona Monastery which is a short detour from the Camino: http://throughourlookingglass.ca/index.php/2019/05/19/day-6-tineo-to-campiello/
We had several special albergues but these stand out: Albergue Ponte Ferreira (communal meal) and Albergue A Pocina de Muniz, a family run albergue Vilar de Camino (photos are on the Day 13 post of the above blog).
Buen Camino!!!
Thank you, Elle! I bought your excellent online book which was a great guide. So thanks again!Gorgeous photos, Judy!
I agree with you wholeheartedly on all the points you made.I would definitely stop at La Mesa and not Berducena, and Castro and not Grandes de Salime. There is a wonderful new albergue between Castro Verde and Lugo - I would have to look up the name - and it has excellent reports
Dinner at restaurant on cider alley Oviedo, Hospitales, lunch atI don't like to overplan my Caminos and usually prefer to just walk until I am tired then stop. But, there are always a few places that are really special and worth planning a visit even if that means finishing a stage a bit early, or walking on a bit longer than usual.
So, for those who have already walked the Primitivo, where should I make a special effort to visit? It could be either an Albergue with a really special atmosphere, or a church, building or place that really stands out.
All suggestions welcome.
I believe the albergue you were thinking of between Castro verde and Lugo is in Vilar de Cas and called A Pocina de Muniz. its a wonderful stop 15km from Lugo which gives you a long day there without a rest stop.I completed my second Primitivo in May this year. I did it differently the second time around, and I cant wait to do it one more time. Weather didn't permit the Hospitales route this time but it is definitely easier and better than the Polo de Allande route, which I had to do this year. I would recommend a stop at San Juan for the first night - I loved it although it is quite a steep climb to get to it. Then the best albergue on the Primitivo was at Bodenaya. Not to be missed. I also stayed at Samblismo, and sent him a message on Messenger to book ahead. If I had to walk again, I would definitely stop at La Mesa and not Berducena, and Castro and not Grandes de Salime. There is a wonderful new albergue between Castro Verde and Lugo - I would have to look up the name - and it has excellent reports. I would stop there next time. I would never again continue to Santiago along the CF once you hit Melide. It is a shock to the system. I am so envious of anyone walking it as I cannot wait to do it for the 3rd time. I used the Wise Pilgrim App, which was excellent.
Definitely stay at the albergue at Bodenaya and Salas on market day had the best tapas and friendliest stalls with delicious cheeseI don't like to overplan my Caminos and usually prefer to just walk until I am tired then stop. But, there are always a few places that are really special and worth planning a visit even if that means finishing a stage a bit early, or walking on a bit longer than usual.
So, for those who have already walked the Primitivo, where should I make a special effort to visit? It could be either an Albergue with a really special atmosphere, or a church, building or place that really stands out.
All suggestions welcome.
I just published a post on my website outlining my Camino Primitivo Highlights.So, for those who have already walked the Primitivo, where should I make a special effort to visit? It could be either an Albergue with a really special atmosphere, or a church, building or place that really stands out.
All suggestions welcome.
We had a great meal there with other pilgrims last May. huge meal and he gave us a yellow arrow brooch.The meal at Casa Pachon in Salas was amazing. My husband and I were the only customers and it went on forever until I had to say stop. “No quieres postre, estas segura?” Course after course kept coming, the cost 10€ each. We would love to go back.
Our meal was in 2016 so I am glad to hear that he was there last May. Hopefully still there. We received yellow arrow brooch as well. I don't know what they were made from, but mine melted a few days later in the 40 degree heat crossing the hospitales!!We had a great meal there with other pilgrims last May. huge meal and he gave us a yellow arrow brooch.
I stayed in the albergue at Bodenaya and loved it. We had amazing food there and great conversation with the other pilgrims. I also had a room all to myself which was a bonus!I just published a post on my website outlining my Camino Primitivo Highlights.
Special churches are the pre-Romanesque ones in and around Oviedo (plus the cathedral). My favourite albergue was Bodenaya. My regret was missing Santa Eulalia de Bóveda near Lugo, but it wasn't open on either of the days that I could have visited, so it was out of my control.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?