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What are your favourite places on the Primitivo?

Sam Hardman

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2006, 2007 Camino Francés
2017 SJPdP - Belorado
2018 SJPdP - Fisterra/Muxía
2019 Camino Primitivo
I don't like to overplan my Caminos and usually prefer to just walk until I am tired then stop. But, there are always a few places that are really special and worth planning a visit even if that means finishing a stage a bit early, or walking on a bit longer than usual.

So, for those who have already walked the Primitivo, where should I make a special effort to visit? It could be either an Albergue with a really special atmosphere, or a church, building or place that really stands out.

All suggestions welcome.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
The Hospitales route in its entirety is worth lingering over if the weather allows, something to stop and appreciate at so many places. Lugo historic center in the evening, we did the English speaking tour around the cathedral then instead of going for a stand alone meal we toured cafes and bars and had the complimentary tapa with the glasses of wine, it felt like a living centre with locals, families out doing similar, there is so many places to stop and linger on the Primitivo, you will have a long list quite soon.
 
Totally agree with Isca-camigo observation about taking the Hospitals route but would recommend you stay at a Albergue Samblismo. It is about 2km past Borres and puts you at the closest spot you can stay before going over the Hospitals route. Javier is a wonderful host and cook, it is a great place to stay he has 4 rooms with only 2 beds and one room for 4. You will need to make a reservation as his reputation as a fabulous stop on the Primitivo is growing. Also agree with enjoying the Lugo historic center as a wonderful feeling of being part of the local community watching and eating with all the local families in the main square.
 

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I don't like to overplan my Caminos and usually prefer to just walk until I am tired then stop. But, there are always a few places that are really special and worth planning a visit even if that means finishing a stage a bit early, or walking on a bit longer than usual.

So, for those who have already walked the Primitivo, where should I make a special effort to visit? It could be either an Albergue with a really special atmosphere, or a church, building or place that really stands out.

All suggestions welcome.
Ethnographic Museum of Grandas de Salime for sure. Opens at 11am so plan.
 
Totally agree with Isca-camigo observation about taking the Hospitals route but would recommend you stay at a Albergue Samblismo. It is about 3km past Borres and puts you at the closest spot you can stay before going over the Hospitals route. Javier is a wonderful host and cook, it is a great place to stay he has 4 rooms with only 2 beds and one room for 4. You will need to make a reservation as his reputation as a fabulous stop on the Primitive is growing. Also agree with enjoying the Lugo historic center as a wonderful feeling of being part of the local community watching and eating with all the local families in the main square.

@shubertj Thanks for the tip! I have made a note of it.

Did you call to make a reservation? Do you know if they speak English? I am learning Spanish as fast as I can but it is still very basic.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
The Hospitales route in its entirety is worth lingering over if the weather allows, something to stop and appreciate at so many places. Lugo historic center in the evening, we did the English speaking tour around the cathedral then instead of going for a stand alone meal we toured cafes and bars and had the complimentary tapa with the glasses of wine, it felt like a living centre with locals, families out doing similar, there is so many places to stop and linger on the Primitivo, you will have a long list quite soon.

I am really looking forward to this section and crossing my fingers that the weather is good. From what I ahve seen the views are spectacular.
 
@shubertj Thanks for the tip! I have made a note of it.

Did you call to make a reservation? Do you know if they speak English? I am learning Spanish as fast as I can but it is still very basic.
No we didn't call but Javier speaks very good English. We emailed him at xavialey@hotmail.com and got a quick response. It is a Donativo and he serves a delicious dinner and Bfk. It is located several kms from Borres and is located about 50 yards past the split and can be reached from either trail. I would recommend taking the split towards Pola de Allende, it is first house you see right on the trail. There is also a short cut through to it from the Hospitales route.
 
No we didn't call but Javier speaks very good English. We emailed him at xavialey@hotmail.com and got a quick response. It is a Donativo and he serves a delicious dinner and Bfk. It is located several kms from Borres and is located about 50 yards past the split and can be reached from either trail. I would recommend taking the split towards Pola de Allende, it is first house you see right on the trail. There is also a short cut through to it from the Hospitales route.
Thanks for this :) I'll aim to stop here. It sounds like my kind of place.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
When you get to A Fonsagrada, do get the Tarta de Fonsagrada. Fortunately, we had a Spanish pilgrim in our group who knew about this delightful treat with ground almonds in the cake.

59508

Also, when leaving A Fonsagrada, you climb another steep hill to another hospital called the Hospital de Montouto. This is a wonderful place to linger and most pilgrims miss the very sacred standing stones behind the Hospital, called the Pedras Dereitas. This high pass must have been special for many, many centuries and I loved the energy of the place!

59509

If you want to read more about this, it is my day eight on the Primitivo.

Of course, I also loved Lugo and spent a rest day there. I loved Castro, and was able to see this ancient Celtic site in the late afternoon after walking. I adored the Hospitales route on my day five, but it sure was a long way from Campiello to Berdecedo, so @shubertj 's advice is prudent!

Enjoy your Camino!
 
When you get to A Fonsagrada, do get the Tarta de Fonsagrada. Fortunately, we had a Spanish pilgrim in our group who knew about this delightful treat with ground almonds in the cake.

View attachment 59508

Also, when leaving A Fonsagrada, you climb another steep hill to another hospital called the Hospital de Montouto. This is a wonderful place to linger and most pilgrims miss the very sacred standing stones behind the Hospital, called the Pedras Dereitas. This high pass must have been special for many, many centuries and I loved the energy of the place!

View attachment 59509

If you want to read more about this, it is my day eight on the Primitivo.

Of course, I also loved Lugo and spent a rest day there. I loved Castro, and was able to see this ancient Celtic site in the late afternoon after walking. I adored the Hospitales route on my day five, but it sure was a long way from Campiello to Berdecedo, so @shubertj 's advice is prudent!

Enjoy your Camino!
The tarta looks amazing, I'll do my best to find one. I am always keen to try new foods!

Thanks for the info about the standing stones. I have been reading a lot about the Primitivo and not seen these mentioned before. It must be a very special place.

I've just been reading your blog and am enjoying your writing. You have some great pictures too :) I really can't wait to be there myself!
 
The tarta looks amazing, I'll do my best to find one. I am always keen to try new foods!

Thanks for the info about the standing stones. I have been reading a lot about the Primitivo and not seen these mentioned before. It must be a very special place.

I've just been reading your blog and am enjoying your writing. You have some great pictures too :) I really can't wait to be there myself!

You will love it, of that I am sure!
 
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No we didn't call but Javier speaks very good English. We emailed him at xavialey@hotmail.com and got a quick response. It is a Donativo and he serves a delicious dinner and Bfk. It is located several kms from Borres and is located about 50 yards past the split and can be reached from either trail. I would recommend taking the split towards Pola de Allende, it is first house you see right on the trail. There is also a short cut through to it from the Hospitales route.

How far in advance do you think you have to reserve for Samblismo? Can it just be a day or so before?
 
When you get to A Fonsagrada, do get the Tarta de Fonsagrada. Fortunately, we had a Spanish pilgrim in our group who knew about this delightful treat with ground almonds in the cake.

View attachment 59508

Also, when leaving A Fonsagrada, you climb another steep hill to another hospital called the Hospital de Montouto. This is a wonderful place to linger and most pilgrims miss the very sacred standing stones behind the Hospital, called the Pedras Dereitas. This high pass must have been special for many, many centuries and I loved the energy of the place!

View attachment 59509

If you want to read more about this, it is my day eight on the Primitivo.

Of course, I also loved Lugo and spent a rest day there. I loved Castro, and was able to see this ancient Celtic site in the late afternoon after walking. I adored the Hospitales route on my day five, but it sure was a long way from Campiello to Berdecedo, so @shubertj 's advice is prudent!

Enjoy your Camino!

I didn´t know about the Tarta de Fonsagrada and I missed the Pedras Dereitas when I did my Primitivo. So, thank you for the information.
As pedras dereitas look like the remains of a dolmen.
 
I didn´t know about the Tarta de Fonsagrada and I missed the Pedras Dereitas when I did my Primitivo. So, thank you for the information.
As pedras dereitas look like the remains of a dolmen.
Yes, when I tried to look it up, I found various terminology, "dolmen," "menhir" and as we know it, "standing stones." This is the best info I could find from the Xunta de Galicia.
 
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How far in advance do you think you have to reserve for Samblismo? Can it just be a day or so before?
I really couldn't give you a good answer, but my guess would be a couple a days ahead could be enough.
 
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I loved por Hospitales even though it was cold, with sleet, hail and periods of fog. 4 of us bonded to do it together, even without the wide views it was magnificent. Loved the upper road into Tineo. All the green mountains and streams, the forest paths and Eucalyptus. It was Spring many newborn animals, all the dairy farms and the wildflowers. Loved Lugo, Fonsagrada and so many other places. Want to go right now.
 
My favourite stage on the Primitivo last month was from Tineo to Campiello (15.1 km) because of the stunning scenery and the Santa Maria de Obona Monastery which is a short detour from the Camino: http://throughourlookingglass.ca/index.php/2019/05/19/day-6-tineo-to-campiello/

We had several special albergues but these stand out: Albergue Ponte Ferreira (communal meal) and Albergue A Pocina de Muniz, a family run albergue Vilar de Camino (photos are on the Day 13 post of the above blog).

Buen Camino!!! :)
 
My favourite stage on the Primitivo last month was from Tineo to Campiello (15.1 km) because of the stunning scenery and the Santa Maria de Obona Monastery which is a short detour from the Camino: http://throughourlookingglass.ca/index.php/2019/05/19/day-6-tineo-to-campiello/

We had several special albergues but these stand out: Albergue Ponte Ferreira (communal meal) and Albergue A Pocina de Muniz, a family run albergue Vilar de Camino (photos are on the Day 13 post of the above blog).

Buen Camino!!! :)
Gorgeous photos, Judy!
 
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I completed my second Primitivo in May this year. I did it differently the second time around, and I cant wait to do it one more time. Weather didn't permit the Hospitales route this time but it is definitely easier and better than the Polo de Allande route, which I had to do this year. I would recommend a stop at San Juan for the first night - I loved it although it is quite a steep climb to get to it. Then the best albergue on the Primitivo was at Bodenaya. Not to be missed. I also stayed at Samblismo, and sent him a message on Messenger to book ahead. If I had to walk again, I would definitely stop at La Mesa and not Berducena, and Castro and not Grandes de Salime. There is a wonderful new albergue between Castro Verde and Lugo - I would have to look up the name - and it has excellent reports. I would stop there next time. I would never again continue to Santiago along the CF once you hit Melide. It is a shock to the system. I am so envious of anyone walking it as I cannot wait to do it for the 3rd time. I used the Wise Pilgrim App, which was excellent.
 
I would definitely stop at La Mesa and not Berducena, and Castro and not Grandes de Salime. There is a wonderful new albergue between Castro Verde and Lugo - I would have to look up the name - and it has excellent reports
I agree with you wholeheartedly on all the points you made.

We stopped at the bar in La Mesa and it looked like a very nice place to stay. The albergue in Castro is wonderful. We were the first arrivals in the early afternoon last month and the hospitalera had no record of our reservation, so make sure you reserve and that the reservation is confirmed. The food is good and the garden is lovely and peaceful.

We also took the Pola route instead of the Hospitales route. This was our experience on that section: http://throughourlookingglass.ca/index.php/2019/05/24/day-8-pola-de-allande-to-berducedo/

The three days that we walked from Melide to Santiago was awfully crowded and we would have happily skipped that section and the Compostela as it detracted from the beautiful experience we had along the Primitivo.

The wonderful new albergue between Castroverde and Lugo is in Vilar de Cas: Albergue A Pocina de Muniz. Here is a link to photos of the albergue: http://throughourlookingglass.ca/index.php/2019/05/27/day-13-cadavo-baleira-to-vilar-de-cas/
 
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3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
There were so many beautiful parts of the Primitivo - my favorites were the forests after Tineo, the clear blue sky and horses on the Hospitales route and the sun rising over the Grandes reservoir.1965C303-01CD-4F8A-8828-5BAE62DA2B00.jpeg558E8C05-DE1D-4A18-8624-D866C9EFB416.jpeg159FAB03-578C-4ECD-A1F9-B2150CDC4669.jpeg
 
I don't like to overplan my Caminos and usually prefer to just walk until I am tired then stop. But, there are always a few places that are really special and worth planning a visit even if that means finishing a stage a bit early, or walking on a bit longer than usual.

So, for those who have already walked the Primitivo, where should I make a special effort to visit? It could be either an Albergue with a really special atmosphere, or a church, building or place that really stands out.

All suggestions welcome.
Dinner at restaurant on cider alley Oviedo, Hospitales, lunch at
HOTEL LAS GRANDAS overlooking the reservoir, walking the Roman Wall at Lugo
 
Albergue Samblismo is a wonderful small albergue with a comunal meal. It’s at the split and if you want to take the route to Hospital there is a track from the albergue directly to the mountain route. Definitely worth booking the day before.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I completed my second Primitivo in May this year. I did it differently the second time around, and I cant wait to do it one more time. Weather didn't permit the Hospitales route this time but it is definitely easier and better than the Polo de Allande route, which I had to do this year. I would recommend a stop at San Juan for the first night - I loved it although it is quite a steep climb to get to it. Then the best albergue on the Primitivo was at Bodenaya. Not to be missed. I also stayed at Samblismo, and sent him a message on Messenger to book ahead. If I had to walk again, I would definitely stop at La Mesa and not Berducena, and Castro and not Grandes de Salime. There is a wonderful new albergue between Castro Verde and Lugo - I would have to look up the name - and it has excellent reports. I would stop there next time. I would never again continue to Santiago along the CF once you hit Melide. It is a shock to the system. I am so envious of anyone walking it as I cannot wait to do it for the 3rd time. I used the Wise Pilgrim App, which was excellent.
I believe the albergue you were thinking of between Castro verde and Lugo is in Vilar de Cas and called A Pocina de Muniz. its a wonderful stop 15km from Lugo which gives you a long day there without a rest stop.
 
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I'm planning Primitivo Apr/May 2020, 3rd time planning hopefully this time it will happen:cool:
Like many pilgrims I tend to take each day as it comes rather than pre-planning every stage.
Thank-you all for the great info it will help me with a "little" pre-planning to take in some gems.
 
Dear companeros!
This is so great to hear about Primitivo! Im planning it this August and I cannot wait! As I have already walked frances and portuguesse Im so excited to do this one! Many thanks for your beautiful suggestions!
 
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Great info everyone. This will be my second Primativo and my first San Salvador.

A couple of years ago we found a great place to eat about 750 meters past Melide. I think it was the second best steak I've had in Spain.
 
Just to reinforce what others have said. The albergue at Bodenaya - David is such a wonderful host. The ethno museum at grandas - really nice interesting place. And the Hospitales route. I'll also add in the albergue in the monastery at Cornellana - fabulous building and spacious rooms. Buen camino
 
Really enjoyed the Asturian mountain views on Camino Primitivo. Salas was a nice place to stay.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I don't like to overplan my Caminos and usually prefer to just walk until I am tired then stop. But, there are always a few places that are really special and worth planning a visit even if that means finishing a stage a bit early, or walking on a bit longer than usual.

So, for those who have already walked the Primitivo, where should I make a special effort to visit? It could be either an Albergue with a really special atmosphere, or a church, building or place that really stands out.

All suggestions welcome.
Definitely stay at the albergue at Bodenaya and Salas on market day had the best tapas and friendliest stalls with delicious cheese
 
The meal at Casa Pachon in Salas was amazing. My husband and I were the only customers and it went on forever until I had to say stop. “No quieres postre, estas segura?” Course after course kept coming, the cost 10€ each. We would love to go back.
 
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So, for those who have already walked the Primitivo, where should I make a special effort to visit? It could be either an Albergue with a really special atmosphere, or a church, building or place that really stands out.

All suggestions welcome.
I just published a post on my website outlining my Camino Primitivo Highlights.

Special churches are the pre-Romanesque ones in and around Oviedo (plus the cathedral). My favourite albergue was Bodenaya. My regret was missing Santa Eulalia de Bóveda near Lugo, but it wasn't open on either of the days that I could have visited, so it was out of my control.
 
The meal at Casa Pachon in Salas was amazing. My husband and I were the only customers and it went on forever until I had to say stop. “No quieres postre, estas segura?” Course after course kept coming, the cost 10€ each. We would love to go back.
We had a great meal there with other pilgrims last May. huge meal and he gave us a yellow arrow brooch.
 
We had a great meal there with other pilgrims last May. huge meal and he gave us a yellow arrow brooch.
Our meal was in 2016 so I am glad to hear that he was there last May. Hopefully still there. We received yellow arrow brooch as well. I don't know what they were made from, but mine melted a few days later in the 40 degree heat crossing the hospitales!! 🤣
 
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I just published a post on my website outlining my Camino Primitivo Highlights.

Special churches are the pre-Romanesque ones in and around Oviedo (plus the cathedral). My favourite albergue was Bodenaya. My regret was missing Santa Eulalia de Bóveda near Lugo, but it wasn't open on either of the days that I could have visited, so it was out of my control.
I stayed in the albergue at Bodenaya and loved it. We had amazing food there and great conversation with the other pilgrims. I also had a room all to myself which was a bonus!
 
I stayed in the municipal albergue in Bodenaya in 2016 and sorry to say, it was a dump for numerous reasons...one of my three worst experiences in memory on five various caminos.
I have read it was undergoing renovations in 2019, so I'm sure it is in much better shape now, although not much can change regarding it's cramped conditions as it is a small building.
 

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