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1988 pilgrim joins the forum

Telluridewalker

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (1988)
Hello all,

My name is John and I walked from Pamplona to Santiago on the Camino Frances in the summer of 1988. It was one of the the best times of my life and I remember my journey quite fondly. I currently live in Telluride, Colorado.

Please feel free to contact me at johnwontrobski@yahoo.com.

!Que tenga buen camino!
 
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Hi John

Welcome to the Forum. It is amazing that the Camino expereince endures in our lives for so long. Tell us more about your experiences please and what was the Camino like 20 years ago?

Regards

John
 
Well, the Camino seemed on the cusp of being "discovered" and exploited by the Spanish tourism industry. Because I started in Pamplona in July the bulge of those headed to Santiago for the feast day was well ahead of me and I guess there were about 5-10 people per day on the path with me. Accomodations were very hit and miss, but no "lining up" for beds as I've read elsewhere on this board is happening now.

The flechas amarillas were being finalized (by who, I have no idea) but there were enough gaps that it was still possible to get lost. The selection of refugios was all over the place and I overnighted in church basements, gymnasiums, abandoned houses, seminaries, municipal buildings and camped under the stars a few times.

One of the worst places I stayed was in a rundown private house in Torres Del Rio, a very small town. The owner of the house invited me in and seemed very kind but was also kinda crazy. There was no furniture or running water in the house so one slept on the floor and when one asked about a bathroom, the owner simply pointed at the backyard (and I don't mean outhouse!).

One other memorable stay was in Villafranca where a local man had built a sprawling bedouin type tent out of scrounged plastic sheeting. He liked to introduce his guests to quemada, the grappa-like drink that he liked to light on fire before taking a shot. He also showed everyone postcards from past pilgrims that had passed through his very hospitable refugio. His simple kindness and hospitality was very reflective of what I found along the Camino.

I don't suppose either of those places are still there.

Thanks for asking!

John
 
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Welcome to the forum John!

I used to live in Fort Collins, have visited grand Junction, never been to Telluride but it is a beautiful part of the US.

Yes, I bet the Camino was a different thing back in 87. Although I have a feeling the "spirit" of it is the same. Have you ever thought of coming back and doing parts of it again?

Greetings from Santiago de Compostela,
Ivar
 
Hi Telluride,
I have a French friend who walked in a group from Burgos to Santiago in the summertime in the early 80s. She said there was basically very little in the way of albergues then, and most nights they just slept outside. Listening to her stories made me feel like a modern wimp!!! I am sure you have a very different perspective to share here.
Margaret
 
I've been doing some trolling around this board and it's helping me remember much of my trip. I've learned the tent-like refugio in Villafranca del Bierzo I remember was probably run by Jesus Jota, who has apparently devoted his life as a hospitalero. There was some talk at the time of a more permanent refugio and the website of one of your users, sillygirl, had pictures and a write up of the new refugio there. Glad to see Jesus is still at it and I'll have to drop him a postcard from Western Colorado.

I have considered retuning to do the Camino again, or maybe a different route. But right now family and work circumstances have me rooted in Telluride and not able to contemplate a month of responsibility free walking across Spain- ahh Youth!

I've spent much time in Fort Collins and Grand Junction (both for educational purposes) and have been in Colorado for 19 years. What are you, Ivar, doing in Santiago? Did your pilgrimage become a way of life for you?

John
 
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This is embarrasing. I just realized my first post to this forum contains an error- I walked in 1988, not 1987. Is there any way to change the title of this thread?

(A red faced) John
 
John:
Looks like the Forum Gods did it for you!

I love talking to the Pioneer types who walked in the days before us latecomers arrived on the scene. Living part-time now, here in Sahagun, is a pilg who did the trip in 1984, and we occasionally hear from one or two from the 1970s!

I first saw the camino in 1992, (part of the Spanish Tourist Office´s efforts to promote the camino) and people think I am an old-timer! Welcome to Ivar´s virtual fuente. Now I don´t feel so old.

Rebekah
 
Telluridewalker said:
This is embarrasing. I just realized my first post to this forum contains an error- I walked in 1988, not 1987. Is there any way to change the title of this thread?
Done, no problem :)
I've spent much time in Fort Collins and Grand Junction (both for educational purposes) and have been in Colorado for 19 years. What are you, Ivar, doing in Santiago? Did your pilgrimage become a way of life for you?
Long story really, the short version would be: I am Norwegian, went to Washington State Univ. to study. Meet my wife, Maria (from Lugo). She got her PhD and we both got jobs at CSU (Fort Collins). After a few years we decided to go back to Europe... so why not Santiago? We have been here almost 5 years now.

Life is full of surprises....

Saludos,
Ivar
 
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Jesus Jato and his family still run their albergue called Ave Fenix (after the ramshackle tent burned to the ground) in Villafranca. Jesus pointed out all the stones that were donated by various people, villages, towns, cities and even countries to rebuild his albergue. He still performs the quemada!

Here is a photograph of the albergue next to the church. And one of Jesus taken in September 2007.
 

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... and if we´re ever there at the same time, I will show you where "my" three stones are set into the dining room wall!
When I first saw it the place was still a ramshackle greenhouse kind of place, but the second time they were in the middle of building this stone edifice (it was a shambles, and it took YEARS!) and if you made a donation and backed it up with some labor, you got to lay your own stones in there. So I did one for me, and one for each of my children... who both later made their own Caminos.

Every time I went through it was more and more clean and sober and civilized. This picture makes it look downright pristine!

Reb (who has never seen a quemada)
 
I stayed in a lovely refugio in Torres del Rio in 2002. It was run by a woman named Carmen. She and her mate had converted an old building. They also ran the only bar/restaurant in the village...Aside from this Refugio, there wasn't much else in Torres...it was like a ghost town.
 
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I found the name of the guy who ran the bare bones refugio in 1988- it was Ramon Sostres. I think I walked through the town of Torres Del Rio, not thinking it was big enough to be a town, and ended up at Sostres' house on the outskirts on the western side.
 
Hi John,
I find your accounts of the "20th Century" Camino fascinating! I lived in Spain for a year in the 70's - during the end of the Franco era and (not surprisingly) never heard of the Camino. While I admit I was a student and more self absorbed than into any kind of spirituality, I still think it odd that I never even heard of it!

Given the fact that even now so few Americans have any knowledge heard of the Camino (relatively sepaking), how did you learn about the Camino during that time and what prompted your decision to go?

Buen Camino,
 
Deirdre said:
Given the fact that even now so few Americans have any knowledge heard of the Camino (relatively sepaking), how did you learn about the Camino during that time and what prompted your decision to go?

Hmm, I'll try to keep it short.

In 1988 I spent my junior college (Colgate U.) spring semester in Madrid. I attended the Instituto Internacional and one of my classes was on Spanish history. The professor said off-handedly one day while we were covering the Middle Ages something along the lines of, "And during this period millions of people from all over Christendom came to this small town in Northwest Spain, bringing their cultures, languages and baggage with them." I was intrigued by the idea and started researching on my own and became entranced by the whole idea, both how it operated in history and what it might mean for me in the modern day.

One weekend, while I was hitchhiking through the Pais Vasco, I asked a truck driver that had picked me up about the Camino and he gave me Millan Bravo Lozano's name and told me I should look for his book on the Camino in the library. I did and I spent the rest of the semester planning my walk.

My initial reasons for the walk were pretty common, I think: I wanted to experience rural Spain, get immersed in the language and learn some history up close and personal. I've always been a hiker so that method of travel appealed to me.

So, after two months of Eurailing amongst European capitals that summer, I found myself leaving Pamplona, not quite sure what I was getting myself into. And that, as they say, has made the difference ever since.
 
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Fantástico... Millan Bravo Lozano's guide is what I used for my first Camino. Still the best in Spanish, I think. Stories like that are what keep us going as teaches - you never know when something you share may have a permanent impact on a student's life. If that is the short version, I'm sure the long version is interesting as well. Thanks for sharing.
:) Buen Camino,
 
Deirdre said:
Fantástico... Millan Bravo Lozano's guide is what I used for my first Camino. Still the best in Spanish, I think. Stories like that are what keep us going as teaches - you never know when something you share may have a permanent impact on a student's life. If that is the short version, I'm sure the long version is interesting as well. Thanks for sharing.
:) Buen Camino,

I actually just bought the Spanish version (used) on eBay yesterday. It's the 1995 edition. I've given up looking for the edition I used in 1988- it had a red cover, if I remember correctly.
 
Hi, Telluridewalker, what a great story. I wonder how many of us who are now walking the Camino were once "Junior Year Abroad-ers" in Spain. My story is similar -- I was in Madrid in 1970-71 doing a year abroad and one of my classes was the History of Spanish Art. My professor, Prof. Azcarate, lectured twice a week at the Complutense and then we had one day a week in small groups with a tutor in the Prado. It was Prof. Azcarate's love of romanesque art and the Camino that stuck with me and I made a mental note then that I was going to walk the Camino someday. Almost 30 years later, when I turned 50 in 2000, I finally got around to doing it!

Your stories about what the Camino was like in the days before the masses are wonderful -- keep them coming!

Laurie
 
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Laurie!

I can't believe this! I was at Complutense in 73-74 and I too, took the History of Art with Prof. Azcarate! Exactly the same as you! 2 weekly lectures and the Prado! It was the most memorable course of my memorable year studying in Spain. I have so many of my books and notes from that época but nothing from that course. I'm afraid they may have gotten wet or damaged through the years and ended up discarded (much to my constant regret!) I never go to the Prado (and I go often, with students!) without thinking of that course - I remember so much of it - the hands of El Greco, the colours of Murillo, the light of Velázquez, the fierce, angry drama of Goya - all due to that amazing course. And I could never remember his name until you mentioned it!

It is my deepest regret not to have any of those extensive notes from the course - I would SO love to share some of that with my students now. Some of my best memories were sitting in the quiet of the Prado - as students with our ID card we could go free any time we wanted - and gazing at those magnificent paintings committing every detail to memory.

Laurie, you've made my day! I can see his face so clearly in the classroom - with the ever present slide projector - but until now I could never remember Prof. Azcarate's name.

Buen Camino,
 
That, John, would be more than anyone could hope for! We all know that the Camino has a "power" over our lives, but that would be downright miraculous!
Buen Camino,
 
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I hate to keep you all in suspense, but IF I still have them (and it's very unlikely, I think), they are many thousands of miles away from me in Illinois. I won't be back till August, but I promise I'll look for them. There are some boxes up in an attic.....

My goodness, Deidre, what a coincidence. I've just googled our dear professor to learn that he died in 2001 and that he started his career in none other than the University of Santiago! I wonder how many thousands of Americans he introduced to the wonders of Spanish painting.

Small world, this Camino. Laurie
 
Oh..kay...now that I'm over the goosebumps...I'm putting a note in my computer calendar to remind me to ask ya'll about the notes some time in late August! This really is an amazing story! Nice way to end the week! Thanks, :) Karin
 
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I just want to add a little post script to this. Laurie and I have been in PM touch - it seems we both went to Georgetown a couple of years apart. We had same professors, remember same things and many similar experiences. Our lives took very different paths, but it is amazing how the connection of Spain, the Camino has brought it full circle. She has jogged my memory and I hers. We've initiated many fond memories of people and places - I even dragged out my college yearbook to remember some names! :oops: So my advice is, when something strikes a chord with another member, go for it! You never know what connections there are! Six degreeds of separation!

Buen Camino,
 
I wanted to ask about the current state of two of my stopovers, the Ermita Virgen Del Puente and Foncebadon. From my journal:

"Camped out next to the abandoned building at Ermita Virgen Del Puente. Had a bath in the river and was pestered by mosquitos all night [I had shucked my tent by this point]. No dinner because I didn't have any food. Tomorrow's etapa [to Mansilla] should be a big one."

I'm assuming from my notes that the "abandoned building" I wrote of is the Ermita itself. Is this building in use now? Has it been renovated at all?

One other place I was wondering about is the town of Foncebadon. When I went through in 1988 it was a ghost town. The locals in previous towns told me, in hushed tones, that only two people were living there when I went through, a mother and her son who tended to a herd of cows ("...y son locos!"). I slept in an abandoned house that night and actually saw the mother and son driving their cows in the distance but never was able to make contact. I've read in other threads on this site that there are alburgues and shops in Foncebadon now? Can that be credited to the resurgence of the Camino?

This is an undated photo I found on the Internet of the Ermita.
 

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The Ermita is still there. Reb told me that it is opened occasionally by the women of SahagĂşn. But she knows much more about that. However, here is a photo of it that I took in July, 2008 the morning I left the Peaceable Kingdom. The second photo is FoncebadĂłn - also taken in July 2008. There are at least two albergues there now. Ok, so the photos are reversed.... I'm about as techno savvy as Laurie! :roll:
 

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sillydoll said:
Jesus Jato and his family still run their albergue called Ave Fenix (after the ramshackle tent burned to the ground) in Villafranca. Jesus pointed out all the stones that were donated by various people, villages, towns, cities and even countries to rebuild his albergue. He still performs the quemada!

Here is a photograph of the albergue next to the church. And one of Jesus taken in September 2007.

Hi, Sil.

Jesus was in Zafra last weekend with his dog, the same than in O Pino march in 2,007.

Yes, his queimadas are famous. And is possible to buy a very good orujo in Villafranca (I use to buy it there since many years ago)

Buen Camino, with queimada if possible.

Javier Martin
Madrid, Spain
 
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