LIVE from the Camino Anniesantiago walks from Malaga!

[Anniesantiago]

I had a lovely meeting this morning at the Cathdral with Maggie and her partner. I spent about an hour picking her beautiful brain about the route and they both were graciously patient.

Next a quick stop at the Correos to mail some items to Pamplona.

Then I began walking the 12 k slog through the city, using Google maps. Once I started, I kept my eyes open for Bus #21 which goes directly to the Pension and head of the Camino trail. Finally caught the bus which dropped me off just a few yards past the pension.

This Camino actually begins at a place called Junto de Los Caminos and I had made a reservation at a pension there for the night. The Pension's name is Jose Carlos and you can find it on Booking.com. A single room was €25. The people here are very kind and helpful.

My room is clean and secure and ensuite.

Lunch here is the Menu del Dia (€15) with a great assortment of choices. I settled on a beautiful salad with potatoes, oranges, onions and peppers. Second course was filletes de rosada a la plancha, which I believe is hake. Both were very good. Dessert and wine and bread are included.

I'm now watching the weather and hoping the thunderstorms being predicted will go around me.
I begin walking in earnest tomorrow. For photos, see my blog.

 

[Al the optimist]

Envious. I have to wait another 2 weeks!

 

[KinkyOne]

Envious. I have to wait another 2 weeks!

4 weeks for me

 

[peregrina2000]

I had a lovely meeting this morning at the Cathdral with Maggie and her partner. I spent about an hour picking her beautiful brain about the route and they both were graciously patient.

Next a quick stop at the Correos to mail some items to Pamplona.

Then I began walking the 12 k slog through the city, using Google maps. Once I started, I kept my eyes open for Bus #21 which goes directly to the Pension and head of the Camino trail. Finally caught the bus which dropped me off just a few yards past the pension.

This Camino actually begins at a place called Junto de Los Caminos and I had made a reservation at a pension there for the night. The Pension's name is Jose Carlos and you can find it on Booking.com. A single room was €25. The people here are very kind and helpful.

My room is clean and secure and ensuite.

Lunch here is the Menu del Dia (€15) with a great assortment of choices. I settled on a beautiful salad with potatoes, oranges, onions and peppers. Second course was filletes de rosada a la plancha, which I believe is hake. Both were very good. Dessert and wine and bread are included.

I'm now watching the weather and hoping the thunderstorms being predicted will go around me.
I begin walking in earnest tomorrow. For photos, see my blog.

Hi, Annie,
So glad to hear you seem to have landed in a sunnier and warmer place than what you might have found in Cercedilla.

Hope to be on that camino in a couple of years, and I will really look forward to hearing how it goes for you. How long do you have to walk now?

Like the others, I wish I were there, too -- these few weeks will really drag, I'm sure. So reading your updates will just have to tide me over. Buen camino, Amiga, Laurie

 

[Al the optimist]

4 weeks for me

Where you starting from? I start Almeri on 4th.

 

[KinkyOne]

I'll start May 18th from Bayonne. First Via de Bayona followed by Frances, Salvador, Primitivo, Fisterra. Very rough plan to be in Santiago on July 4th.

 

[CaminoDebrita]

It is delightful to hear that you are well, and enjoying time with Maggie and her partner, as well as feasting on all the best that Spain has to offer! Buen Camino!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Hi Laurie. I think my reservations in Pamplona begin on the 5th but my pilgrims don't actually start arriving until the 7th.

My plan, if all goes well, is to get to Córdoba and if there is time, pick up the last few days I missed on the Madrid route last year. Then on to Pamplona. If I'm slower than I expect I'll go directly to Pamplona from Córdoba/Madrid.

It's nice and warm down here though thunderstorms are expected my first two days. Hopefully the weatherman is wrong.

At any rate I plan on starting slow.

In the bar having my first cerveza con limon of the season. Now I know it's not a dream!

I'll do my best to report when I have wifi.

Annie

Hi, Annie,
So glad to hear you seem to have landed in a sunnier and warmer place than what you might have found in Cercedilla.

Hope to be on that camino in a couple of years, and I will really look forward to hearing how it goes for you. How long do you have to walk now?

Like the others, I wish I were there, too -- these few weeks will really drag, I'm sure. So reading your updates will just have to tide me over. Buen camino, Amiga, Laurie[/QUOT

 

[Anniesantiago]

It's 6 am and pouring rain - so much for avoiding the weather. However, it is a balmy 61 degrees so I'm grateful it isn't cold.

I woke up with a very stiff neck this morning. When I woke up about 4 am it was not bothering me so I'm not sure what it's all about. Must be the weather. Where is Granny Clampett's rheumatism medicine when you need it!?

The man in the room next door, Frank, is sawing logs. I imagine he is out from his pain melds. He is a doctor from Holland, I think he said. Yesterday, he crashed his motorcycle and broke a clavicle. He gave a pained laugh when he told me he was here on a few days vacation to escape the stress of his work. Now he will have his last three days of vacation lying in his hotel room. He was quick to mention how kind the local people were in helping him to the hospital and being sure his bike was taken care of. Frank, the bartender, and I all three agreed that people are good everywhere when given a chance. After all the bad news about war and strife in the world, it was a feel-good moment; three people from three different countries, heartily agreeing on the more positive attributes of humanity.

I planned on starting early this morning but I think I'll wait an hour or so to see if the rain lets up at all. If not,once it's good and light, I'll push ahead. This hotel is pretty much empty. If I get to a point on the trail I feel it is dangerous to continue in the weather, I can always turn back and stay here another night.

I think the main worry is not knowing what to expect. If the trail is slippery as well as steep, (like the one into Roncesvalles or Zubiri), I'm not willing to risk injury. If it's simply wet, but the trail is good, I've walked in rain before and I have my trusty Altus.

I took a photo of my pretty new shoes. In this weather I imagine it's the last time they will look like this! Next time you see them, I guess they will match the Malaga clay.

Last night I got hungry and went back to the bar for food. I had a large bowl of the seafood soup and man was it good! With bread it was a full meal! Hot and stuffed with big chunks of fish, shrimp, calamari, mussels, and clams, it would be a great choice if you were on a budget. €6.

I will post photos when I have a faster internet connection.

 

[mspath]

Hope all goes well for you Annie!
May your neck and the weather quickly get better.

Stay safe and Carpe diem!

 

[Anniesantiago]

This was a 14k walk that was a combination of easy and difficult for me

Starting out from Juntos, the trail was very well marked and I'd call it easy. The only thing that confused me a bit was the part in the walking directions where it talk about taking off to the left after the bridge. Well, there is a small bridge soon after you begin and there IS a goat trail off to the left. Ignore it. You are going to walk around that big tall conical hill to your right before you hit the goat trail going up to the left.

If I could give any advice about this first stage it would be to pay attention when you come to any crossroad. Sometimes I would be unsure which way to go until I was right in the middle of the intersection. I'd stand and turn in a circle and voila! I'd see the way marks, which were sometimes hidden by tall grass or grapevines.

Starting around 8:15 am, there was a lot of traffic on the road on the first section before crossing the bigger bridge over the dry river. To get to that bridge, you almost walk a loop around to the right, then left over the bridge. Once you cross that bridge, you will take the dirt road straight ahead, and not follow traffic to the right. You will then have that chain link fence on your left as you walk past orange and lemon trees. They were in bloom for my walk and the fragrance brought back childhood memories.

You stay on this dirt road a while watching carefully for arrows then boom! The trail goes sharply and steeply up the the left and it was heart attack city for me! I'd take 5 steps and rest. I imagine Laurie and some of you who are in prime shape wouldn't break a sweat but I was seriously worried about how long I could keep that up. Lol! Thank God there was a top to that hill and when you reach the top, you'll see a way mark with a very smudged arrow.

Which way to go? It was a toss-up.

I chose left and within a few steps, there was a pretty little whitewashed Casa and a track off to the right, well marked.

The middle of the route was fairly easy walking. Rolling hills with some tougher sections. When you come to the Casas Suisse, you feel like you're going right into someone's yard but in fact the trail goes between houses. A nice man there told me I still had 3 hours to go. Ouch. (It was more like two)

Down past the house with the 'pool' which was not a swimming pool but a reservoir for livestock and the farm. Up and back around to the right. I felt I was going to end up where I started. Soon, the way marking totally disappeared for a long, long time. I passed a fragrant goat farm on my left with about 5 barking farm dogs. I ignored them and they stayed away.

I was concerned I was on the wrong path when a car came down the hill. I flagged him down. It was an Irish fellow named Les who lives nearby and he spoke English! He said I was on the right track and soon would hit the main road to Almogia. He offered a ride into the village. Man, it was tempting but I told him I wanted to walk.

We chatted a bit, then he left. A few yards later I came to a big question mark. A very sharp left switchback. On the rocks I could just barely make out two arrows. One barely discernible. The other had been painted over with white. It confused me. Les had said Almogia was less than an hour's walk on the main road,which I could see now ahead. This track looked like it was someone's driveway.

I chose to go straight and walk the road. The bad news was that it was busy so safety was a concern. The good news is that it dropped me at the top of the village on the very street the Albergue is on. I stopped at the panaderia to get bread and she had the key to the Albergue !! What luck!

From there I stopped for a beer, and learned the Dia market was right around the corner. I bought food for dinner, breakfast and tomorrow's walk. I forgot to buy extra water.

I let myself into the Albergue. It's very clean with two rooms of beds. My room has six beds. A group of 4 Frenchmen came an hour later and they were put in the other room, thank God! Lol.

Good hot shower. Food in my belly. Wash done. I'm ready to rest. I may try to find wifi or it may just wait.

Right now, walking anywhere is far from my mind. I'm worried about tomorrow. 8 k more than today. I hope it isn't as rough as today. I must be in worse shape than I thought. Kowabunga!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Annie,
So good of you to post all these notes, I am one of many who will probably benefit in the future when we start to plan our Camino Mozarabe and look for Annie's posts. You never know, though those 4 French pilgrims may be a tight knit group, they may invite you in for some comaraderie and sign language/google translate! Animo, tomorrow, take it slow and step by step. Buen camino, abrazos from Laurie

 

[Anniesantiago]

Try as I may I can't seem to add photos to my blog. I guess it will have to wait until I'm home.

Haha Laurie. They're very nice.

By the way, that tight switchback to the left WAS the Camino. But if you follow it you enter town at the bottom and have quite a climb to the top!

Oh, and there is wifi at the Bar Chiquette near the Albergue.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Almogia to Villanueva de la Concepcion.

Though I constantly say no boots are needed on the Camino, today I wished for boots, at least for the first hour.

Getting out of town you continue down the road from the Albergue. The hospitalero, who was very sweet, insisted when we reached a "seal of the city" we should go left, go left, go left. However the flechas amarillas clearly pointed RIGHT and so we went right. We followed them through an alleyway that ended with arrow very difficult to see going up a tiny trail. Following the arrows it was a rocky scramble down a very steep steep trail past a farmhouse on the right with a big swimming pool. The arrow then suggested we go left, and we did, and soon the arrows disappeared even though we were being very vigilant. Continuing on a country roadway we passed a farm and the road made a sharp left. My walking friend had a GPS but seeing how he wandered lost for 40k yesterday, I decided to depend on my gut.

I could see the main road at the top of the hill so I followed the road first left, then right up to the Main highway. At that point I heard Nicolas hollaring he had found the Camino. But I wasn't about to go back down that hill.

Instead I turned RIGHT on the main road and soon saw a sign indicating 18 k. I was happy. The road was not busy. It was flat. It was pouring rain and there was no mud. After 10 minutes I saw Nicholas walking a road parallel to me. We exchanged shouts and I stayed on the road.

The good news. On the trail there is nothing between Almogia and Villnueva. But on the road, at 8 k. Is a lovely bar where I am enjoying a warm rest, a cervesa con limon, and a big ensalada mixta as well as free wifi. And the views from the road after passing the mountains to the left were just spectacular!

Unbelievably, there were 8 pilgrims in the Albergue last night. I have no idea what will happen in Villanueva. Hopefully once the four beds are filled, they will have a place for the rest of us.

Tomorrow should be sunshine and a short day.

I'm not sure why one photo posted twice but I'm afraid to mess with it.

Annie

 

[Anniesantiago]

I think you really do need gps on this route which so far has not been well marked in some sections leading to at least two pilgrims getting lost yesterday. Perhaps the Amigos of the Camino could go put up a few more flechas.

 

[Anniesantiago]

The boots of those who walked the trail.

 

[Anniesantiago]

To Antequera.

The good news. An absolutely gorgeous walk! Not too difficult, though there were difficult stretches. The hardest was the descent, as Maggie put it, "the craziest steepest descent!' Wildly steep but beautiful.

The bad news. There are 8 walking and I arrived to a full Albergue. Only 4 beds total here and no chance for even a mat on the floor. Two pilgrims got rooms for €15. I arrived later and managed a room at Hotel Toril for €25. But I'm happy.

I'm hoping to walk a short 11 k day tomorrow and let the herd get ahead of me.

Now to find my hotel, get a hot shower and explore.

 

[peregrina2000]

Go figure, a bed rush on the Mozarabe -- and to think that just a year ago, Maggie and George met no one! Glad you can hold back and see if the wave passes you by. Loving this thread, Annie.

 

[Castilian]

Now to find my hotel, get a hot shower and explore.

...and if you want to try a local dish, look for a Porra Antequerana. Enjoy!

 

[Anniesantiago]

...and if you want to try a local dish, look for a Porra Antequerana. Enjoy!

I saw it at the Pollo Asada place but thought I already had way too much food with 1/2 chicken and potatoes for €6.

 

[KinkyOne]

I saw it at the Pollo Asada place but thought I already had way too much food with 1/2 chicken and potatoes for €6.

Wow, that's two days food for me

 

[peregrina2000]

...and if you want to try a local dish, look for a Porra Antequerana. Enjoy!

Oh, yum. I decided to find out what a Porra Antequerana was, even though I was thinking it was some kind of fried pastry (aren't there things called porras that are like fat churros?). Anyway, Google showed a gazpacho-like tomato-based soup, but with bread in it. I think there are several names for these southern tomato soups, Castilian do you know some of the others?

 

[Anniesantiago]

A few more notes about today's walk.
It did not feel like 20k to me. Maybe 18?

Getting up and out of the village was strenuous. The people who live in these beautiful villages must have buns of steel! I have a photo of the map of the village if anyone wants it.

I stopped into a small place for coffee and tostada con tomate. They also have wifi so I took screen shots of the wikilog route since Maggie mentioned the waymarks were so poor last year.

However, I found I did not need to consult the maps at all. The Amigos must have gotten wind of Maggie's blog because I found every twist and turn was well marked with one exception. As I entered the Natural Park area the road made a hairpin turn to the left. There was a working farm on the right and a dirt path going alongside the farm fence. I stood there a moment looking around. There was a large Boulder up high to my left and I could barely make out a yellow "x" -- then a farmer came out and I pointed to the dirt track and asked "el Camino a Santiago?" And he indicated yes. So I continued OFF the main road and onto the track.

Backing up to the beginning . . . Once I left the village I walked up through farmland, olive groves, deserted old farms, and just some of the most beautiful countryside I've seen. Everything was fresh and green and the windflowers are beginning to pop.

There were about 2 kilometers of that darned sticky mud but I managed to avoid a lot of it by just watching my step and walking in the median or the grass. Up, up, and up the track went, a slow gentle ascent with a few places that were difficult for me. I'd have to stop every now and then and catch my breath.

There is a point when you can clearly see the main road off to the left and soon after, the path curves around and heads to a farm. Here, you go off the main track and LEFT
into a pasture-like track. But again, if you turn around and look, there is a clear waymark. You just have to keep your eyes open on this route.

The pasture track goes through a field and dead ends on a gravel road, where you turn RIGHT and the track is wide and sandy and good walking. You are still steadily but gently climbing.

I kept watching the rugged mountains to my right ( sorry, I'm reading this and making corrections) wondering how the heck I was going to manage THAT! Lol. But luckily, the path took me through a beautiful pass and soon I was at the top, and I could see Antequera!

Then began the craziest steepest rockiest descent ever. The path has been concreted over which is a nice gesture, except it is studded with all shapes of pointy (not flat) rocks. I had to really watch my feet, stopping every few minutes to snap photos and see the scenery.

It seemed to go on forever, and was quite tiring. My feet feel like they took a beating and again, I think this is a route where you may want to consider boots.

Halfway down I could see 6 pilgrims on the road a couple of k ahead of me and I figured getting a bed was probably not in the cards. I didn't care. I went slow and soaked in the beauty. A HUGE ruckus of bells below, and I saw these pilgrims pushed off the path by hundreds of goats!! I took a video so as to remember the sound, once they got below me.

Once you are over El Torcal it is easy walking. I passed a couple of grouchy farm dogs. One actually lunged at me but I stood tall and pointed my umbrella at him and he backed off. The others ran off when I used Rebecca's trick of bending down and picking up a rock. Man, they know what that means and they skidaddled!

You come into Antequera at the top of the village (of course) and it's a long walk down to the church. Directions:

1.Enter at Calle Jesus
2. Continue down Cuesta de Calderos
3. It turns into Cuesta del Viento
4. Right at Calle del Rio
5. Left at Cuesta de Los Rojas
6. Right on Calle Fresca, past a school (lots of parents waiting today)
7. Past Callejon de Los Urbana
8. Left on Calle Belen
9. Right at Plaza Santiago and into the church yard.

I believe they had to ring the bell for the priest.

2 bunk beds, very close together. A bit too claustrophobic for me, but looked clean and well kept.

The bar next door has good wifi and that is how I got on booking.com to find a room. But I believe the others just asked around.

Ok. That's it. I've eaten, I've washed my stinky stuff. I'm too tired to go exploring. Maybe tomorrow. I'd really like this wave of pilgrims to get ahead of me.

I'll go now and try to post some photos on my blog But it's giving me trouble.
Annie

 

[Anniesantiago]

Wow, that's two days food for me

Yes, I took half of the meat for tomorrow's lunch. :::laughing:::

 

[KinkyOne]

Annie, I can see photos on your blog but maybe you should first downsize them as they are now all over the page and text to the right???

 

[soozansings]

Yes, I took half of the meat for tomorrow's lunch. :::laughing:::

I am enjoying this SO much! Thanks. Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Annie, I can only see three of the 8 pics, but they are the right size. The others are just blank spaces, at least on my iPad.

 

[peregrina2000]

Going to go try to add photos on the other posts on the blog now. Sorry. I'm a bit computer illiterate.

Annie, you are a whiz compared to me.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Ok. Please try now? You should be able to see 8 or 10 photos.

 

[Castilian]

(aren't there things called porras that are like fat churros?)

Yes, they are. The joys of polysemy, you know...

I think there are several names for these southern tomato soups, Castilian do you know some of the others?

Soups or purées typical from (areas of) Andalucía that are tomato based: the gazpacho andaluz (don't mix it with the gazpacho manchego), the sopa de tomate (typical of Cádiz province), the salmorejo cordobés and the porra antequerana. Being the two former soups and the two latter purées. Maybe, we could add the pipirrana jaenera somewhere between a soup and a salad. It can be more (mainly local specialties and/or variants of any of the above dishes) because I'm not an expert but I'd say those are the main ones... at least the main ones I know about.

P.S.: Although not tomato based, another soup typical from some areas of Andalucía (Málaga would be one of them) is the Ajo Blanco (aka ajoblanco).

 

[Anniesantiago]

So I forgot it was Thursday and tomorrow is the weekend. I tried to book another night here in Antequera because there is so much to see and I doubt I will walk this route again. Couldn't get into the same hotel but found another. Had to book a double for €30. I don't mind. I need the time to let the others get ahead. And a rest day will be nice. I know it's early on, but this is a very cool place. Tomorrow I will visit the dolmens and the castle. I thought about staying at the Albergue but decided I really wanted my own space one more night. Hopefully I can make it to Villanueva Algoidas Saturday and get a bed. Does anyone know how many beds are available there? Should I stop at Cartaojal? Ok. More tomorrow. Annie

 

[peregrina2000]

Since I'm sitting in an airport with a multi hour delay, I can at least try to be helpful. According to the website, http://caminosantiagoandalucia.org/wordpress/albergue-de-peregrinos-de-villanueva-de-algaidas/ there are 14 beds. That ought to handle the traffic!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Since I'm sitting in an airport with a multi hour delay, I can at least try to be helpful. According to the website, http://caminosantiagoandalucia.org/wordpress/albergue-de-peregrinos-de-villanueva-de-algaidas/ there are 14 beds. That ought to handle the traffic!

Laurie, you ROCK! Where you goin

 

[KinkyOne]

Beautiful photos, Annie!!!
Oversized pics are in previous post (To Antequera. 18k), but in the last one they're just perfect!

Ultreia!

 

[KinkyOne]

Since I'm sitting in an airport with a multi hour delay, I can at least try to be helpful. According to the website, http://caminosantiagoandalucia.org/wordpress/albergue-de-peregrinos-de-villanueva-de-algaidas/ there are 14 beds. That ought to handle the traffic!

You're already on the way??? Aren't you starting Ebro the same day as I, May 18th?
Anyway, have a great time

 

[peregrina2000]

Laurie, you ROCK! Where you goin

You're already on the way??? Aren't you starting Ebro the same day as I, May 18th?
Anyway, have a great time

I arrived in Portugal, and last night I was sitting in the Lisbon airport waiting to get on a flight to Madeira that was ultimately cancelled. We had planned a short pre-work getaway, but are now regrouping here in Lisbon to see what we will do. I'll be in Lisbon Tues-Fri this coming week for work, and have a forum get together set up for Wednesday.

But you're right K1, that I will be arriving in Spain on May 18. Just have a few more things to do before that happens, with a trip back to US, work there, and FINALLY my camino flight on May 17!

 

[Anniesantiago]

I'm having a wonderful restful day in Antequera. I will post a blog with photos later today. Kinky, I will try to fix those photos tonight. I got a new blogging app.

Menu del Dia included porra!

 

[peregrina2000]

So, Annie, can you give us a comparison between porra and gazpacho? Looks much more like a puree than a typical gazpacho. But it also looks quite refreshing -- is it served cold?

 

[KinkyOne]

Whatever this thing is it sure looks yummy

 

[Anniesantiago]

So, Annie, can you give us a comparison between porra and gazpacho? Looks much more like a puree than a typical gazpacho. But it also looks quite refreshing -- is it served cold?

Yes, it was very thick purée, like pudding. It tasted like a very rich yummy gazpacho. It was served ice cold and with hunks of tuna, egg, tomato, and ham on top. Alone with bread, it would have made meal by itself.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Today, I was looking for the way out of the village for tomorrow's exit. I had dropped by the Albergue to see how many pilgrims were there and to ask the priest the way out, but he was not there. I asked a Dutch pilgrim and she indicated we must walk back the way we came.

That didn't seem right and so I checked at the T.I. where the nice lady drew me an excellent map. I followed the map and voila! There was the route. I took a photo of the waymark.

Antequera is a beautiful town.
I'll post more photos on my blog.

Hoping to make Villanueva Algoidas tomorrow.
Annie

 

[nollaigc]

View attachment 25532 Well, I just had my second negative pilgrim experience in two days and I've decided I may just walk in silence.

Yesterday it was the older gentleman pilgrim who hated all French pilgrims. We listened to his vitriolic mumbling until I finally escaped.

Today, I was looking for the way out of the village for tomorrow's exit. I had dropped by the Albergue to see how many pilgrims were there and to ask the priest the way out, but he was not there. I asked a Dutch pilgrim and she indicated we must walk back the way we came.

That didn't seem right and so I checked at the T.I. where the nice lady drew me an excellent map. I followed the map and voila! There was the route. I took a photo of the waymark.


I went back to the Albergue to tell them I found the way and was met by a French man who informed me he had walked the Camino five times, that I was wrong, that Americans were ruining the Camino (even though he had walked five times), that there were more Americans than any other nationality on the Camino, and that we always thought we were right!

Well,shut my mouth!

I showed him the photo of the waymark and tried to explain but he loudly talked over me and said we Americans were ruining the spirit of the Camino.

Yikes. This will be a person I share the next few nights with?

I think it may be time for me to retire.
I left feeling downtrodden and even more depressed.
Maybe I'm just old and tired but I find myself more and more just wanting to be alone.

It was otherwise a great day. Antequera is a beautiful town.
I'll post more photos on my blog.

Hoping to make Villanueva Algoidas tomorrow.
Annie

Annie,
This your Camino. Don't let someone's bad manners spoil it for you.
I'm sure there will be lots of other fine people that you'll meet along the way.
Go enjoy- remember your on Camino- and consider how lucky you are.
NollaigC

 

[Anniesantiago]

Annie,
This your Camino. Don't let someone's bad manners spoil it for you.
I'm sure there will be lots of other fine people that you'll meet along the way.
Go enjoy- remember your on Camino- and consider how lucky you are.
NollaigC

I know. I'm just bummed and having a bad moment.
Probably the super perfumed sheets last night have affected my brain
The guy was a total poop.
I'll get over it.

 

[MichaelB10398]

Hello Annie, it is odd how some days we experience negative people regardless of how we try to assist others. Regardless of how we want to assist it may be better to be silent and wait a little bit until someone asks for assistance.

I remember a similar experience to yours when I was in France. I met a man, a passionate communist, he was convinced that we Americans were ruining the world; he said he hated me, hated all my fellow citizens; and my country. All I was trying to do was introduce myself in a social setting. I wished him well, apologized for interrupting his evening, and then left to have.....some time to myself. Your solution is not a bad thing at all, but it is measured in time rather than a permanent solution.

Your blog and your posts here have been great. Thank you for sharing your Camino with us.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Three new blog posts with photos of the village, the museum, and the dolmens are up. This is a wonderful place. I'm so glad I took a day to explore it.

 

[Anniesantiago]

 

[domigee]

Oh dear I am really sorry to hear of your bad experience, especially as it was a French person Nationalities matter so little when we are walking... how rude and uncouth of him.
I hope you have a better day tomorrow and it doesn't put you off all the French

 

[Anniesantiago]

Oh dear I am really sorry to hear of your bad experience, especially as it was a French person Nationalities matter so little when we are walking... how rude and uncouth of him.
I hope you have a better day tomorrow and it doesn't put you off all the French

No way! I love the French! He was just a poop! Lol.

 

[Al the optimist]

Oh, yum. I decided to find out what a Porra Antequerana was, even though I was thinking it was some kind of fried pastry (aren't there things called porras that are like fat churros?). Anyway, Google showed a gazpacho-like tomato-based soup, but with bread in it. I think there are several names for these southern tomato soups, Castilian do you know some of the others?

Porros. Oh what difference a vowel can make! Sounds yummy. I must try it if I come across it.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Antequera to Villanueva de Algaidas. 24 k. About 7 hours. Dang I'm slow!
Wow! This 24 k stretch took me from 7:15 this morning until now, 2:45 pm.
I took about 1/2 hour rest midway in Cartaojal, where there was both a lovely little plaza by the church as well as a bar.

The path today varied between paved road and dirt road and for me, it was really hard on my feet. The climbing wasn't bad,,but there was a very short steep descent toward the end that was pretty hard on my knees too.

The first half was through pretty farmland The second half through more olives than I knew existed. A pleasant walk.

A few notes. Coming down off the hill it's impossible to see Villanueva until you pass the cement plant or whatever the big plant is on the right. You are going to go all the way around to the right side of that hill, so don't panic.

Also, as far as way taking it was pretty darned good. There were two questionable places. One was a stupid rock with a yellow arrow pointing to a stream or creek bed. After checking to see where it went, I ignored it and continued on the main track and soon saw a regular waymark. I did pass that stream bed again, so I suppose if a person wanted to they could follow it, but it wouldn't be much of a shortcut.

Second. Toward the end of the second half you are walking on a regular track and suddenly there are tree trunks painted yellow like pillars off to the right.

Ooooooookay. Turn right. Soon, you see more way marking and soon are on a diet track following yellow gas line signs. Then, out of the blue, off to the right, it looks like a bunch of drunks went nuts with a can of yellow paint. They seemed to be indicating a path to the right again. However, it just didn't 'feel right' because I had seen the village straight ahead and these yellow try keep trees were heading back toward the mountain side.

Luckily, there was a farmer in the field who told me to stay on the path straight ahead to Villanueva. So I did. I wish my Soanish was good enough to ask what in the heck those yellow trucked trees were about, but I was just happy to be headed to the village.

For me this was a difficult 24 k but I realize I'm not in great shape. Tomorrow I think I will go as far as Cuevas only. Otherwise the next day will not be manageable for me. But. Need to sit down and study the notes.

Photos on my blog Are posted. Now I'm tucking into this salad!

 

[ksam]

Annie...stop posting pics of that salad...I'm gonna be licking my screen in a minute!! And thanks for the beautiful sunny photos this morning! Perfect antidote to a completely bleach weather morning here!! Buen Camino mi amiga!!

 

[domigee]

Annie...stop posting pics of that salad...I'm gonna be licking my screen in a minute!!

Yup, second that!

Buen camino Annie.

 

[LTfit]

Hi Annie, good to see that you are on your way! Now playing catch up.

Ohhhh so jealous everyone talking about their Camino plans when mine are unsure...I guess that I will just need to keep reading everyones' posts until I have my own.
It looks like I will just need to walk from Málaga too...

Amazing all the pilgrims! When I walked from Granada I didn't meet anyone until Mérida.

Take care and Buen Camino!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Today I walked to Cuevas Bajas, only about 10 k. Because otherwise tomorrow into Lucena would have been over 30k.

Another beautiful but not easy walk. Half was all uphill. Reminded me of the walk to Orisson - a constant stop and start. The minute I thought I was at the top, there would be another hill behind that one.

Finally, the top, then a steep descent on a combination of tracks from dirt to rocky to paved.

A nice village. Everybody here is in a happy mood. I grabbed some fresh churros on the way in.

The Frenchman almost had a heart attack trying to beat me here and in the end, the barkeep handed me the only key. I could see the steam coming out of the French guy's ears. He likes to be in control. Later, he told me I needed to give HIM the key. I politely declined. The Albergue door is open. No need for a key. Heck, I'm afraid he will lock me out, lol!

And me, I've made a mess of my booking for Lucena by staying the extra day in Antequera and not checking my sehedule. I have a booking there for today. I've asked booking.com to see if they'll change it but I may have to eat the fee. Bummer.

I'm thinking about stopping at Lucena. I really want to finish the Madrid route this year and the weather is looking better there. I'll decide tomorrow.

The way was well marked. Just pay attention to the difference between yellow arrow and yellow 'X's!!

Photos on the blog.
Annie

 

[MichaelB10398]

You make me laugh retelling the look at the Frenchman's face about the key and his desire to be in control. Eating crow is not a tasty dish for anyone.

 

[Anniesantiago]

 

[Castilian]

I'm thinking about stopping at Lucena. I really want to finish the Madrid route this year and the weather is looking better there. I'll decide tomorrow.

Yes, it seems there's going to be more sunny days although it may still rain some day(s) but it seems that way less than what has rained the last 2 weeks. Don't expect temperatures as warm as those you are having in the South though.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Yes. More pilgrims showed up today. One, a really nice Australian who came in from Antequera. Dang, some people are machines!

There will be a race for beds ahead in some tiny albergues after long stages and there is no way I can keep up. I'm too slow. I will end up having to pay for private lodging or sleeping under a tree. Neither appeals to me or my budget. I have a Hostal booked in Lucena. From there I think I will be a tourist for a day in Córdoba then head for the last few stages of the Madrid route as planned.

This few days on the Malaga route has kicked my butt - but for those of you who are strong walkers, it's a pretty route. It can be tedious walking through all the olives, but the few mountaintop views make up for that.

I think it would be awfully difficult in hot weather with no water between villages and not much shade. Cool weather walking for sure.

Thus ends live from the Malaga Route.
I'm throwing in the towel.
Annie

 

[Castilian]

I will be a tourist for a day in Córdoba then head for the last few stages of the Madrid route as planned.

Enjoy Córdoba! It's a nice city.

Tip: check if the visit to the Cathedral is still free the first hour in the morning (after opening) for individuals (i.e.: no groups) in silence.

 

[Al the optimist]

Thanks for that tip Castillian

 

[domigee]

Lovely photos

 

[Pong]

Hi Annie. Looks like a beautiful if challenging walk. I'm in Logrono now taking somewhat of a rest day after an easy 12 km. Our weather on the Frances has been pretty good with only two half days of rain this week, but not really hard rains and decent temps (at least for me as it was snowing at home a few days before I left). Glad to be here on the Frances and glad you are happy with your walk.

 

[C clearly]

Thus ends live from the Malaga Route.
I'm throwing in the towel.

Sorry that the posts will end, but it can be lots of fun to throw in the towel and do something different.

 

[soozansings]

I know. I'm just bummed and having a bad moment.
Probably the super perfumed sheets last night have affected my brain
The guy was a total poop.
I'll get over it.

Hugs!

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi, Annie,

I think it would be best for you to get to Cordoba first. As I see there are hourly buses first to Montilla and then to Cordoba Central. It will takes a bit more than an hour. From Cordoba train to Madrid Atocha (every 30min), change with cercanias to Madrid Chamartin and train to Valladolid from where you can start walking to Simancas or even directly to Cigunuela.

It would take you one whole day so maybe worth thinking of staying overnight either in Madrid or Valladolid. Madrid - Valladolid is just 15min by train.

If you want I can look for details if Whari wouldn't show up soon (different time zone...).

 

[peregrina2000]

I am not the transportation guru, but here's my two cents.

There are buses from Lucena to Madrid http://www.estacionautobuseslucena.es/mostrar_ruta1.php. (Looks like a long ride, though)

From Madrid to Valladolid, Alsa says there are 50 trips a week: https://www.alsa.es/rutas/madrid-valladolid.htm

There are also very frequent buses from Valladolid to Simancas. And from there to Cigunuela is only 6 km.

Annie, if you want albergue accommodation, another thing to think about is to get from VAlladolid to Puente Duero for your first night, the albergue there is run by the VAlladolid amigos and is quite nice. Then you would have a short 12 km day from Puente Duero to Cigunuela the next day.

Looking forward to hearing more about your new camino.... And maybe you will get to visit the church in WAMBA!!!!!

Buen camino, amiga. Laurie

 

[LTfit]

Sorry to hear Annie as I have been enjoying the posts.

If you think those days out of Málaga have a lot of olive groves well after Granada there are even more!

Good luck up on the Madrid and after with your group on the Francés.

 

[Castilian]

I need to figure out the best way to get to Cignuela from Lucena in the next few days.

As you plan to play the tourist one day in Córdoba, you should look how to get from Córdoba to Valladolid (unless you decide to skip Córdoba what would by a pity if you have the time). Two main options:

1. Train from Córdoba to Madrid plus train from Madrid to Valladolid. You would need to change stations in Madrid (from Puerta de Atocha to Chamartín) but the cercanías ride to make it would be free with your ticket from Córdoba.
2. Bus from Córdoba to Madrid (http://socibus.es) and another one from Madrid to Valladolid (www.alsa.es/en).

Madrid - Valladolid is just 15min by train.

Not that close. Roughly 1h. 5m. by train most times. Roughly 55m. with the quickest ones and roughly 1h. 15m. with less quick high speed trains. With non-high speed trains, more than 2h. 30m.

 

[Pingüigrino]

Oh, yum. I decided to find out what a Porra Antequerana was, even though I was thinking it was some kind of fried pastry (aren't there things called porras that are like fat churros?). Anyway, Google showed a gazpacho-like tomato-based soup, but with bread in it. I think there are several names for these southern tomato soups, Castilian do you know some of the others?

Porra Antequerana is similar to gazpacho, with no water on it. Its like Córdoba,s salmorejo.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Sooooooo..... What a day!

My new Camino Angel showed up last afternoon in the form of a Peregrino named Tony, an Australian from Antequera (now). Tony is walking to raise money to buy wheelchairs for sick children in Antequera. He s a survivor of a usually fatal leukemia who was one of the few saved by bone marrow transplant. I learned his story over a bottle of wine he shared with me.

This morning, Tony and I were in great spirits and he had coffee while I waited across the street in the dark for my bus. The minute the bus picked me up, I saw him leaving and I felt he had been keeping an eye out for me. Bless you, Tony, wherever the Camino takes you!

My bus took me to Antequera, my only option to get out of town, as it was a fiesta day. I had made a Hostal reservation at Lucena, thinking I might continue walking from there. However the ticket counter was closed today and I was forced to use a cranky machine. I bought a ticket to Lucena, then tried to get a ticket to Córdoba for tomorrow. The ticket machine told me that if I went to Lucena, there was absolutely no option to get to Córdoba from there!!! Non. Zip. I tried a dozen combinations and it said no bus to Córdoba from Lucena. I would have to backtrack to Antequera AGAIN and go to Córdoba from there.

At this point it was like the Universe was telling me to just move on. And so I bought ANOTHER ticket to Córdoba, where I knew I could get to Madrid, then Vallodolid.

Imagine my frustration when the damned bus took a 15 minute stop at Lucena!!!! My Canadian friends and I just laughed. This Camino is kicking my butt this year. So I lost €€€ on the room in Lucena plus I was out for the cost of the one ticket. I complained to the bus driver but he just shrugged and at this point I felt laughing was the best option.

Sooooo... I have already seen Córdoba and am really wanting to walk, (after a day of rest, now) so I got a train ticket to Vallidolid. It was spendy, €82, but so much faster than the bus would have been. It was already turning into a 12 hour trip!

Met another angel on the train who helped me make the jump from Atocha to Chamartin in just enough time to catch our train! She was going to Vitoria.

Arrived here starving, stinky, and weary. Found a hotel for €40. Didn't have the energy to look further.

I'd like to get onto the Madrid route tomorrow if possible but I don't know. I'm going to shower then check bus schedules. I haven't seen Vallodolid but at this rate I am going to run out of funds and I will still need to find a place to hunker down for two weeks from June 1-15.

Anyone need a house sitter or hospitalera?

Ok. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
One thing is for certain, life is an adventure!
Isn't it great?!

Annie

 

[Anniesantiago]

Hi, Annie,

I think it would be best for you to get to Cordoba first. As I see there are hourly buses first to Montilla and then to Cordoba Central. It will takes a bit more than an hour. From Cordoba train to Madrid Atocha (every 30min), change with cercanias to Madrid Chamartin and train to Valladolid from where you can start walking to Simancas or even directly to Cigunuela.

It would take you one whole day so maybe worth thinking of staying overnight either in Madrid or Valladolid. Madrid - Valladolid is just 15min by train.

If you want I can look for details if Whari wouldn't show up soon (different time zone...).

I'd love to just walk to Simancas or actually to Cigunuela. Is that doable? I need to find a map.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Oh. My. God. There is a bathtub here. I'm in heaven.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I am not the transportation guru, but here's my two cents.

There are buses from Lucena to Madrid http://www.estacionautobuseslucena.es/mostrar_ruta1.php. (Looks like a long ride, though)

From Madrid to Valladolid, Alsa says there are 50 trips a week: https://www.alsa.es/rutas/madrid-valladolid.htm

There are also very frequent buses from Valladolid to Simancas. And from there to Cigunuela is only 6 km.

Annie, if you want albergue accommodation, another thing to think about is to get from VAlladolid to Puente Duero for your first night, the albergue there is run by the VAlladolid amigos and is quite nice. Then you would have a short 12 km day from Puente Duero to Cigunuela the next day.

Looking forward to hearing more about your new camino.... And maybe you will get to visit the church in WAMBA!!!!!

Buen camino, amiga. Laurie

I am definitely going to make Wamba a stop this time.
Tomorrow I'll look into a bus to Simancas and walk from there.
Unfortunately all of the Madrid route info is on my computer at home but I think there are files on here I can find.

Thanks everyone, for your help.

I may have nightmares about giant olive trees with gnarly fingers chasing me! Lol.
And I'll never need to ask where olive oil comes from.

The Canadian beekeeper wondered how the monoculture affected the bees. They were here on a bee trip.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Sorry to hear Annie as I have been enjoying the posts.

If you think those days out of Málaga have a lot of olive groves well after Granada there are even more!

Good luck up on the Madrid and after with your group on the Francés.

Good Lord! I never dreamed there could be so many olive trees!!!
Haha. Every time we use olive oil now, I'll drive my friends crazy saying, "I remember I once walked for four days through groves and groves of olive trees".

And they will all yell, "No more Camino stories!" :::cackle::

 

[Castilian]

I'd love to just walk to Simancas or actually to Cigunuela. Is that doable?

Yes, but you have to know the route because it isn't marked. The walk to Ciguñuela would be mostly on the shoulder of roads. The walk to Simancas (through Arroyo de la Encomienda) is more urban with some countryside between Arroyo de la Encomienda and Simancas.

Tomorrow I'll look into a bus to Simancas and walk from there.

You have two options depending on where is your accommodation in Valladolid. To take a bus with www.laregionalvsa.com out of the bus station of Valladolid or to take urban bus line number 5 (for more info: www.auvasa.es) that makes many stops in Valladolid.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Yes, but you have to know the route because it isn't marked. The walk to Ciguñuela would be mostly on the shoulder of roads. The walk to Simancas (through Arroyo de la Encomienda) is more urban with some countryside between Arroyo de la Encomienda and Simancas.



You have two options depending on where is your accommodation in Valladolid. To take a bus with www.laregionalvsa.com out of the bus station of Valladolid or to take urban bus line number 5 (for more info: www.auvasa.es) that makes many stops in Valladolid.

Thanks

 

[Castilian]

OTOH, the route from Valladolid to Puente Duero is marked (with shells in urban areas and mojones out of them). In Puente Duero there's a pilgrims' albergue and you could continue next day to Ciguñuela (no idea if your jump from Andalucía to Puente Duero would mean a problem to use the albergue in Puente Duero though but the same could be said about Ciguñuela).

 

[KinkyOne]

OTOH, the route from Valladolid to Puente Duero is marked (with shells in urban areas and mojones out of them). In Puente Duero there's a pilgrims' albergue and you could continue next day to Ciguñuela (no idea if your jump from Andalucía to Puente Duero would mean a problem to use the albergue in Puente Duero though but the same could be said about Ciguñuela).

And if you walk from Valladolid in direction of Puente Duero you can turn right when coming to main road and head for Simancas & Ciguenuela. Quite doable for a days walk.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I spoke with the priest here tonight and I THINK I can get a Credential here and if I do, he will stamp it for me and I can begin here. I stayed at Puente Duero last trip. I ended at Cigunuela which is why I'd like to start there. I will have to make a decision tomorrow. Too tired right now. But the marked trail sounds good.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Awake and found another thread on this route where Johnnywalker mentions many buses to Simancas. I remember Simancas. I think that is what I will shoot for today. Then I will walk to Cigunuela. I remember seeing that bell tower for miles and miles. I also remember a great dinner in Cigunuela!

Time to shower, breakfast, pack up and go.

Hopefully I will find the new credential. If not, I'll use the one I have and hope it causes no problems.

Thanks, everyone.

 

[Anniesantiago]

And if you walk from Valladolid in direction of Puente Duero you can turn right when coming to main road and head for Simancas & Ciguenuela. Quite doable for a days walk.

Kinky, I'd do this but my app shows the route walking on a really busy highway. Do you have directions on country road? I'm at Hotel Roma.

 

[peregrina2000]

Quite a long travel day you had, but glad to hear you sorted it all out and arrived in Valladolid.

You're probably well on your way by now, but I think the only walk from Valladolid to Simancas would be alongside the highway. Not dangerous, I don't think, but probably not so scenic. But there are tons of buses between Simancas and Valladolid, as you've probably already found out. So on to Cigunuela today?

Time for a new "live from the camino" thread, since you've changed to the Madrid! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Anniesantiago]

Yup. Time for change and only a few days to finish this Camino. I'll go start a new thread.

 

[Castilian]

my app shows the route walking on a really busy highway. Do you have directions on country road?

I think the only walk from Valladolid to Simancas would be alongside the highway. Not dangerous, I don't think, but probably not so scenic

Just in case someone is reading this thread and is interested in walking out of Valladolid to Puente Duero, Simancas or Ciguñuela, take a look at my post on this other thread: www.caminodesantiago.me/community/posts/351737

P.S.: It seems the link I quote on that post doesn't show a route via Avenida de Salamanca anymore but you could easily figure it out. Comming from Valladolid, keep straight on Avenida Salamanca till you pass Hipercor in Arroyo de la Encomienda.

 

[ksam]

Ah Annie sending you all kinds of positive thoughts and prayers today!! Be well!! K

 

[Phillypilgrim]

Enjoyed reading all the posts!

 

[Pong]

Good luck on the Madrid, Annie.