Aragones / Invierno advice, please

[MARSKA]

I have decided to walk the Aragones to Ponferrada, then perhaps join the Invierno to SDC for my next camino in spring 2024.

I much prefer cooler temps to warmer temps (actually I MELT when walking over 80F in the sun).

I walked in the fall of 23 and I'd like to try spring for 24.

I appreciate any advice regarding starting dates. Also, thoughts about starting in Somport vs Canfranc?
Thank you mi amigos!!!!!

 

[dick bird]

Somport is actually just the pass, there´s a private albergue/cafe up there and an abandoned border post but not much else so little point in going there if you start in Spain. It would also be awkward to get to unless you have come from France whereas Canfranc Estacion has bus and train services. Spring weather is unpredictable and you are in the foothills of big mountains so it could be cold in April, and wet but we´re talking discomfort here, not danger. The Aragonés, of course, joins the Francés near Puente La Reina. By the time you get to Ponferrada, it will be warmer. But it would be a beautiful time to walk. I´d suggest mid to late April.

 

[JerryStroebele]

Marska, my French son in law Julien and I walked the Camino Aragones this past October. We started in Pau on the Chemin Arles/Via Tolovana so I could get in some conditioning mileage before cresting Somport Pass and Julien could return to his beloved Pyrenees. I had not walked in France before and was totally charmed by the people, the towns and the Chemin. I will return. Somport Pass was not particularly exciting and there were no services still open in October, so no coffee or eagerly anticipated cold beer late in the afternoon. Candanchu just below the pass was an eye opening massive ski resort complex. Only two cafes open there but with nice cold beer and very nice people staffing one of them. Confranc Estacion was a beautiful sight to behold, and it was by many tourists. To answer your question, the walk down from Somport Pass was easy and beautiful. You are following a river and history. But I wouldn't start from there, I would start from Pau or earlier on the Chemin Arles. I was charmed by Jaca. If you were hurting by then an extra day in Jaca would not be wasted. Plan your stages to spend a night at the Arres albergue. A Camino classic. Buen Camino

 

[Vacajoe]

Well, no surprise, but I disagree with previous advice! Start from France if you can (Marie St Oloron is easy to reach and the start of a beautiful section of the Arres). If not, definitely start from Somport as that IS the start of the Aragon Way! The bus that takes you from Jaca up the valley stops at Somport so it’s no added difficulty if you are coming from Spain.

April likely will have snow and, despite Dick Bird’s comment, it can be very dangerous if you are not prepared or get caught in an active storm. If the winter has been heavy, you’ll end up having to walk the highway instead of the path and that’s terrible. Plan to walk from Somport, but if the weather dictates it, start from Canfranc Estacion or Jaca instead where snow will it be an issue.

Favorite albergues: Canfranc Pueblo and Arres, both of which are donativos. There will be no issues finding accommodations when walking in April.

 

[good_old_shoes]

I've walked the Aragones late october/beginning of november and agree with regards to snow - look at the weather report before you start.

The Somport pass is higher up than the Route Napoleon. There are skiing resorts in that area for a reason!

I started in sunny and warm weather for the first days, ~20°C, or at least it felt like it.

A few days later, that rapidly changed, and there was severe snowfall up there.

Thankfully I was already off the part at higher elevation and only had to deal with ice cold rain (sometimes snowy rain) and strong wind (~2-5°C?). You could see the snow up on the hills around.

In Puente la Reina I turned around towards Pamplona, and the snow line had come down almost to the path at the Alto del Perdon, just a few meters higher up.

The Aragones is a beautiful and more quiet path than the Francés. I can imagine that it's absolutely lovely in spring!

But I'd bring warm clothes for april, and winter gear in case of snow (or start at a lower point such as Jaca, as has already been recommended).

Buen Camino!

 

[J Willhaus]

Have worked at both the albergue in Canfranc Pueblo 2022 (just a few km from Canfranc Estacion) and Arres 2023. Walked from Canfranc Estacion to Artieda in 2022. A lovely quiet route with lots of history so make time to enjoy that if you can. We had side trips to the monasteries in San Juan de la Pena and Leyre. Visited the castle at Javier and last year spend a day over in the walled city of Sos del Rey Catholico.

The big renovated train station in Canfranc Estacion is now a luxury hotel. We wanted to go in for coffee, but only open to guests last year and we were shooed away by a security guard. It is lovely though.

We took the high speed train from Madrid to Zaragoza. From there you can switch to a slower train to Canfranc Estacion. Last year there were some track works so the train wasn't running. In that case there is also an option to transfer to a bus in Zaragoza to Jaca and then take the local mountain bus up to Somport with stops along the way. Zaragoza is also awesome if you ever have extra time there.

 

[camino07]

No one has mentioned Ruesta, that's a great albergue in a ruined village. Stage after Arres.

 

[naplesdon]

Starting in Oloron-Sainte-Marie is highly recommended. Easy rail access from Pau and the possibility of a visit to Lourdes beforehand.

 

[peregrino_tom]

I'm with Jerry S on this - start as far back in France as you can, and if that's not very far, then still don't miss out on climbing up la Vallée d'Aspe, which is lovely introduction to the Western Pyrenees. So Pau, or Oloron, or take the little train from Oloron along the flat part to the village of Bedous, and go from there... just type Bedous into google images if you're still not convinced.
Then as you go up the valley, adjust to prevailing weather conditions. If there's heavy snow it may even be pragmatic to take the bus through the tunnel, but you can decide when you get there.

 

[J Willhaus]

I'm with Jerry S on this - start as far back in France as you can, and if that's not very far, then still don't miss out on climbing up la Vallée d'Aspe, which is lovely introduction to the Western Pyrenees. So Pau, or Oloron, or take the little train from Oloron along the flat part to the village of Bedous, and go from there... just type Bedous into google images if you're still not convinced.
Then as you go up the valley, adjust to prevailing weather conditions. If there's heavy snow it may even be pragmatic to take the bus through the tunnel, but you can decide when you get there.

The last two years there some dangerous road works in the summer on the French side of the pass and pilgrims were encouraged to take a bus rather than walk along the edge of the road.

 

[lt56ny]

I walked in October of 2022 from Canfranc Station. I wanted to take a bus or taxi up to Somport but I arrived late as there was construction on the train and we had to switch to a bus and that took a while. The first day I walked only from Canfranc Station to Canfranc. The rain started about a kilometer from Canfranc and it rained hard for much of the day and into the night. It was really a short walk but really beautiful. I wish I would have brought some groceries with me to cook at the fantastic new albergue in Canfranc. There was a bar that was open for food and to be honest the food was not too good. But the bar was fun.
I finished the Aragones about October 29th. Almost all the albergues told me that they would be closed on November 1. The only other pilgrims I saw until just before Puente la Reina was a German couple on some nights. I slept in albergues every night and some nights they slept in hostels. I will probably walk it again in 2024.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Do not miss San Juan de la Peña. It's not far off the Aragonese. There's lots written about it on the forum and this sub-forum. I'll leave it for now.

But additionally you will find the wonderful church in Eunate before the Aragonese joins the Camino Francés at Obanos before Puente la Reina. But you don't have to go to Obanos, there is a variant you can take to visit an ermita before joining the CF. The details are in the thread linked below. You have to read the whole thing as I posted a bit with errors that finally got worked out.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/detour-santa-maria-de-eunate-to-ermita-de-nuestra-senora-de-arnotegui.72178/

 

[howardd5]

Marska, my French son in law Julien and I walked the Camino Aragones this past October. We started in Pau on the Chemin Arles/Via Tolovana so I could get in some conditioning mileage before cresting Somport Pass and Julien could return to his beloved Pyrenees. I had not walked in France before and was totally charmed by the people, the towns and the Chemin. I will return. Somport Pass was not particularly exciting and there were no services still open in October, so no coffee or eagerly anticipated cold beer late in the afternoon. Candanchu just below the pass was an eye opening massive ski resort complex. Only two cafes open there but with nice cold beer and very nice people staffing one of them. Confranc Estacion was a beautiful sight to behold, and it was by many tourists. To answer your question, the walk down from Somport Pass was easy and beautiful. You are following a river and history. But I wouldn't start from there, I would start from Pau or earlier on the Chemin Arles. I was charmed by Jaca. If you were hurting by then an extra day in Jaca would not be wasted. Plan your stages to spend a night at the Arres albergue. A Camino classic. Buen Camino

A excellent idea , I walked from Pau and enjoyed the views and fewer pilgrims. I did get lost a few times but the residents were more than helpful. I agree about the walk down from Canfrac station was pleasant and Jaca was charming mountain retreat . You cou start in France at O leonne( sic) at the start of the climb and in four days you’d be in Spain.

 

[JerryStroebele]

Yes, I should have also highlighted the newly renovated albergue at Canfranc Pueblo. Made me feel like royalty instead of a mere pilgrim. It was the hospitalero at Arres, Pedro Antonio, who made Arres so special. Big shoes to fill, J Willhaus, but somehow I sense you are up to it. Muchas gracias y Buen Camino

 

[winemakerfw51]

I walked the Aragones starting April 21, 2023 from Canfranc Station. The first day it rained heavily all morning. I never had another drop of rain until I was past Logrono. Last year, another poster said there was snow at the beginning of April. It was all gone by the time I arrived.

The Aragones is a beautiful, peaceful Camino, especially at that time of year.

Buen Camino

 

[Beeman]

Marska, my French son in law Julien and I walked the Camino Aragones this past October. We started in Pau on the Chemin Arles/Via Tolovana so I could get in some conditioning mileage before cresting Somport Pass and Julien could return to his beloved Pyrenees. I had not walked in France before and was totally charmed by the people, the towns and the Chemin. I will return. Somport Pass was not particularly exciting and there were no services still open in October, so no coffee or eagerly anticipated cold beer late in the afternoon. Candanchu just below the pass was an eye opening massive ski resort complex. Only two cafes open there but with nice cold beer and very nice people staffing one of them. Confranc Estacion was a beautiful sight to behold, and it was by many tourists. To answer your question, the walk down from Somport Pass was easy and beautiful. You are following a river and history. But I wouldn't start from there, I would start from Pau or earlier on the Chemin Arles. I was charmed by Jaca. If you were hurting by then an extra day in Jaca would not be wasted. Plan your stages to spend a night at the Arres albergue. A Camino classic. Buen Camino

I agree.I flew to Pau and walked from Lescar. The walk from there was well worth it!

 

[Flog]

I have walked all and parts of the Aragonês a few times now and served twice at Canfranc.. there is something special and atmospheric about the route up into the pass on the French side and down into the Aragon Valley that draws me back. I see now Ryanair has a route from Dublin to Lourdes, (I don't know if this is a new service) I'm thinking to fly to Lourdes and walk from Pau/Lescar in Spring too..

 

[AnneMarie1]

I started in Somport May 2 last year and diverted to the Invierno at Ponferrada, as you're considering. There's pretty much nothing in Somport, but it's easy to get there from Jaca. There's a bus that leaves the bus station in Jaca around 8 in the morning. I suppose you could start at Canfranc, but why miss that much more of that gorgeous scenery (unless the weather's bad, I suppose)? I stayed in Jaca the night before. If you do that, try to stay in the delightful old city and see some of the sights. Jaca's got charm and lots of history. Do stay at the albergue in Canfranc Pueblo if you can. It's wonderful. It was unseasonably hot last year at that time, but 2 weeks before there had been significant snow, so I think you never know. From Somport, you are going steeply dooowwwwn, especially that first day. So it's not the physical strain of going up in elevation, but it might be hard on knees. If I do it again, I would probably start in France at least a couple days back, just to enjoy the Pyrenees more. Take it slowly. It's beautiful and there are things to see along the way.

 

[lt56ny]

I started in Somport May 2 last year and diverted to the Invierno at Ponferrada, as you're considering. There's pretty much nothing in Somport, but it's easy to get there from Jaca. There's a bus that leaves the bus station in Jaca around 8 in the morning. I suppose you could start at Canfranc, but why miss that much more of that gorgeous scenery (unless the weather's bad, I suppose)? I stayed in Jaca the night before. If you do that, try to stay in the delightful old city and see some of the sights. Jaca's got charm and lots of history. Do stay at the albergue in Canfranc Pueblo if you can. It's wonderful. It was unseasonably hot last year at that time, but 2 weeks before there had been significant snow, so I think you never know. From Somport, you are going steeply dooowwwwn, especially that first day. So it's not the physical strain of going up in elevation, but it might be hard on knees. If I do it again, I would probably start in France at least a couple days back, just to enjoy the Pyrenees more. Take it slowly. It's beautiful and there are things to see along the way.

The municipal albergue in Jaca is really nice and has everything a pilgrim needs. I was alone the day I was there. The hospitalero was really nice and helpful.

 

[peregrino_tom]

there is something special and atmospheric about the route up into the pass on the French side and down into the Aragon Valley that draws me back.

On a hot summer's day you may find the heat oppressive (humid) on the French side. And then as you summit and cross, it becomes drier (and maybe a little hotter) and you receive the scent of the pines - and you know you are in Spain...

 

[JerryStroebele]

Even in early October it was quite hot on the French side. Fortunately, much of the Chemin is routed through forest. Much cooler in the shade. Surprising, though, were pesky mosquitos and gnats. Buen Camino

 

[rappahannock_rev]

I walked the Aragones in May 2018, starting at Lourdes. Memorable experience! The vistas coming down from Somport to Canfranc Estacion were extraordinary. Don't even think about missing them! ... But there's this: There were a number of Aragones stages without any other pilgrims in sight for hours. Quite different from the Frances! ... In my dotage I confess to worrying that a woman walking alone might be... well, vulnerable to mistreatment.

 

[AnneMarie1]

I walked the Aragones in May 2018, starting at Lourdes. Memorable experience! The vistas coming down from Somport to Canfranc Estacion were extraordinary. Don't even think about missing them! ... But there's this: There were a number of Aragones stages without any other pilgrims in sight for hours. Quite different from the Frances! ... In my dotage I confess to worrying that a woman walking alone might be... well, vulnerable to mistreatment.

I started at Somport this past spring -- as a woman walking alone. You're right that there's no one around for hours, but I never felt the least bit worried or vulnerable. I did have hiking poles, but only had to use them for conventional purposes. I wouldn't hesitate to do that route again, including alone.

 

[J Willhaus]

I walked the Aragones in May 2018, starting at Lourdes. Memorable experience! The vistas coming down from Somport to Canfranc Estacion were extraordinary. Don't even think about missing them! ... But there's this: There were a number of Aragones stages without any other pilgrims in sight for hours. Quite different from the Frances! ... In my dotage I confess to worrying that a woman walking alone might be... well, vulnerable to mistreatment.

We had lots of women walking alone the last two years on this route. No reports of anything untoward.

Yes, very solitary and you may see an occasional farmer between villages, but there aren't that many villages or houses close to the Camino.

 

[MARSKA]

One concern I have about walking in France is that I know 2 words in French- you can guess what they are. And I know the french people can be a little...let's say...touchy with non-french speakers. What has your experience been?

My other concern is the weather. I's rather walk in cold weather than hot weather, but not thru snow in the mountains (safety concerns).

Rev. Rappa - I appreciate your concern and I take it to heart. But my instincts tell me there is little to fear. I'm inclined to believe that I am safer there than on a street (or movie theater or church or store) in my own city. Sad to say.

 

[trecile]

But there's this: There were a number of Aragones stages without any other pilgrims in sight for hours. Quite different from the Frances! ... In my dotage I confess to worrying that a woman walking alone might be... well, vulnerable to mistreatment.

I've walked several routes where I have been alone for hours and it's never bothered me, nor did I think I was in any kind of danger.

 

[dick bird]

I walked the Aragones in May 2018, starting at Lourdes. Memorable experience! The vistas coming down from Somport to Canfranc Estacion were extraordinary. Don't even think about missing them! ... But there's this: There were a number of Aragones stages without any other pilgrims in sight for hours. Quite different from the Frances! ... In my dotage I confess to worrying that a woman walking alone might be... well, vulnerable to mistreatment.

Let´s not get caught up in another discussion about women´s safety, but out in the middle of the Spanish countryside in broad daylight is about a safe a place as anyone can be and is probably safer than the streets of one´s own town late at night.

french people can be a little...let's say...touchy with non-french speakers. What has your experience been?

Exactly the opposite. Thanks to high school classes long, long ago I do know a few more than two words of French, but only a few and I understand less. French people who spoke English were more than happy to talk to me in it and French people who didn´t went out of their way to communicate and be helpful. So long as you at least smile, say bonjour and look at least a little apologetic, they are more than kind. They just have odd business hours.

 

[Former member 104756]

French people who spoke English were more than happy to talk to me in it and French people who didn´t went out of their way to communicate and be helpful. So long as you at least smile, say bonjour and look at least a little apologetic, they are more than kind. They just have odd business hours.

@MARSKA I agree with @dick bird.

In my experience, the ‘reputation’ of the French that you mentioned is an often repeated but ill founded stereotype. If you decide to walk in France I think you will be pleasantly surprised. There will be fewer pilgrims and fewer for whom English is a first language. It’s very different from the Frances. But that’s all part of the adventure. As with travel in any country where you don’t speak the language, a smile and a small effort with one or two words go a long way.

I speak a little more French now, but that was not the case the first time I walked a camino in France, solo on the Le Puy Way about 10 years. I had just a few words. I’ve since walked a few more paths in France - including the Arles continuing on the Aragones - and always found my French hosts to be kind, generous and welcoming.

Re the business hours, they do seem odd especially coming from a country, as I do, where shops are usually open all day, 7 days a week. There is a saying that the French work to live, they don’t live to work. Family, friends and community are at the centre of life and they place a high value on work life balance. It’s something I’ve come to appreciate greatly about the French way of life, but also something to bear in mind. Even if your guide book or app says there is a shop or bar, don’t assume it will be open when you’re passing through. We always carry snacks when walking in France but that’s the same for walking some of the less travelled paths in Spain

All the best for your Camino Aragones. I love that path. And if you decide to start a little further back in France - Bon Chemin

 

[peregrina2000]

In my experience, the ‘reputation’ of the French that you mentioned is an often repeated but ill founded stereotype. If you decide to walk in France I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

I heartily agree. My epiphany moment was years ago, when I was in the stereotypical mindset that French are rude. Then I learned that it was I who was being rude when I walked into a store and simply placed an order or asked for an item. My failure to say good day and engage on a human level with the person behind the counter or the cash register was received as extreme rudeness and responded to in kind. It has made all the difference, just another unintended cultural faux pas that is so easy to fix.

 

[AnneMarie1]

I heartily agree. My epiphany moment was years ago, when I was in the stereotypical mindset that French are rude. Then I learned that it was I who was being rude when I walked into a store and simply placed an order or asked for an item. My failure to say good day and engage on a human level with the person behind the counter or the cash register was received as extreme rudeness and responded to in kind. It has made all the difference, just another unintended cultural faux pas that is so easy to fix.

Yeah, first time I was in France (in Paris, no less) I was bracing myself for that stereotypical rudeness, but never experienced it. People were friendly and helpful. And that's been my experience since then, too. I wish everyone would just retire that stereotype. It's not fair to the French people!

 

[MARSKA]

Thanks everyone! Much appreciated.

 

[MARSKA]

The last two years there some dangerous road works in the summer on the French side of the pass and pilgrims were encouraged to take a bus rather than walk along the edge of the road.

Does anyone have a recent update on the road work?

 

[JerryStroebele]

I don’t recall any road work under way this past October. Where you did walk on the road there was adequate room except maybe a few short stretches. The path along the river was a little sketchy in a few areas because of erosion. Loose your footing and you could slide down into the river. Adios! Have good tread on your foot wear. Have a small flashlight or charged smartphone to see in the 1 km abandoned RR tunnel. In October there were pesky mosquitoes and gnats. Bring some DEET. Also in early October despite the unseasonable heat there was still a lot of dew in the long grass on the path. I was glad to have Gore-Tex boots. On the other hand in the heat I was happy that the path is often in the shade. The Chemin Arles south from Pau is just delightful. Bon Chemin

 

[J Willhaus]

It was on the French side and I think summer roadwork. In March or April there may still be snow so I doubt there will be roadwork unless it is some kind of an emergency thing.

 

[Colette Z]

I have decided to walk the Aragones to Ponferrada, then perhaps join the Invierno to SDC for my next camino in spring 2024.

I much prefer cooler temps to warmer temps (actually I MELT when walking over 80F in the sun).

I walked in the fall of 23 and I'd like to try spring for 24.

I appreciate any advice regarding starting dates. Also, thoughts about starting in Somport vs Canfranc?
Thank you mi amigos!!!!!

I walked the Invierno Nov 2023 alone from Ponferrada continuing from the Le Puy to the Camino Frances to escape the growing touristy crowd. PM me for any info, accommodation, remoteness

 

[jouffroy47]

The last two years there some dangerous road works in the summer on the French side of the pass and pilgrims were encouraged to take a bus rather than walk along the edge of the road.

Yes, I believe I took the bus from Etsaut to Urdos to avoid the road construction last September

 

[jouffroy47]

The last two years there some dangerous road works in the summer on the French side of the pass and pilgrims were encouraged to take a bus rather than walk along the edge of the road.

This is the bus if you opt to take it

 

[Nodtralee]

Hello all.
The Aragones route is excellent, not too busy and fairly well waymarked (the exception being the way up to the two monasteries of San Juan de la Peña). Plenty of accommodation.
I walked it from Canfranc Estacion to Puente La Reiña in October. Just wanting to pass on some interesting findings from my walk there.

Jaca is a lively town. Good albergue, cooking facilities, various shops and establishments.

For those interested in a bit of culture there is a section on the Aragones that is currently embroiled in a Spanish governmental land procurement, notably the area surrounding and including the village of Artieda. From my discussions with some locals in Artieda and across in one of the abandoned villages on the other side of the Embalse de Yesa, Escó, locals are fiercely against the proposed expansion of the reservoir. The plan is to raise the existing level of the reservoir. Henceforth this rise will engulf a lot of arable farmland and several villages including Artieda and another village that is on the Aragones, Ruesta. This will be a sad development but seen as a necessary one from the governments side.
Artieda is a lovely village, the tower of San Martin church in the village can be climbed to give commanding views of the countryside. Artieda in itself is similar to a lot of other villages in the area. It sits on top of a hill overlooking the locality.
The two monasteries both old and older San Juan de la Peña are busy tourist centres. The walk up to them out from Jaca makes for an interesting days walking. Currently that route is walkable albeit not very well waymarked. Stunning scenery on the way up.
Santa Cruz de Los Seros is another busy tourist village.
The current Camino is to be enjoyed due to the future possibility of some sections of the route becoming unaccessible.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

A few misc thoughts....

The Estacion in Canfranc was undergoing serious work when I visited in 2018. We were allowed to look around inside, but had to wear hard hats. It was very impressive! I'd love to see it now that the work is completed.

Best tapas in toda Espana (IMHO!) were at the Bar Asador Jose, in Villanua, north of Jaca. Barkeep told me that they were made especially for his establishment by a little old lady who lived across the street.

Jaca might be worth a rest day, to sightsee and soak up the ambiance. Probably the only town on the Aragones about which I could say that.... The cathedral is of enormous interest and importance if you're into churches like me!, and the attached museum is excellent.

 

[Geebee]

I'm with Jerry S on this - start as far back in France as you can, and if that's not very far, then still don't miss out on climbing up la Vallée d'Aspe, which is lovely introduction to the Western Pyrenees. So Pau, or Oloron, or take the little train from Oloron along the flat part to the village of Bedous, and go from there... just type Bedous into google images if you're still not convinced.
Then as you go up the valley, adjust to prevailing weather conditions. If there's heavy snow it may even be pragmatic to take the bus through the tunnel, but you can decide when you get there.

I started from Bedous after taking the shuttle train from Pau in September this year, stopped at Urdos, then Candanchú and Canfranc Pueblo. The station is impressive, in fact that's one of the reasons I wanted to cross at Somport.

 

[Kasee]

Do not miss San Juan de la Peña. It's not far off the Aragonese. There's lots written about it on the forum and this sub-forum. I'll leave it for now.

But additionally you will find the wonderful church in Eunate before the Aragonese joins the Camino Francés at Obanos before Puente la Reina. But you don't have to go to Obanos, there is a variant you can take to visit an ermita before joining the CF. The details are in the thread linked below. You have to read the whole thing as I posted a bit with errors that finally got worked out.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/detour-santa-maria-de-eunate-to-ermita-de-nuestra-senora-de-arnotegui.72178/

The visit to Eunate is definitely worth it. Highly recommend!

 

[ranthr]

Somport after days in heavy rain from Oloron St. Marie some years ago.

 

[domigee]

I heartily agree. My epiphany moment was years ago, when I was in the stereotypical mindset that French are rude. Then I learned that it was I who was being rude when I walked into a store and simply placed an order or asked for an item. My failure to say good day and engage on a human level with the person behind the counter or the cash register was received as extreme rudeness and responded to in kind. It has made all the difference, just another unintended cultural faux pas that is so easy to fix.

Absolutely. In France we always greet each other in a shop 'bonjour messieurs/mesdames' before anything. But that's in Paris... Imagine my surprise when in small villages, people would actually come and individually shake our hand! 'Bonjour Madame, bonjour Monsieur". I was stunned!

 

[jouffroy47]

A few misc thoughts....

The Estacion in Canfranc was undergoing serious work when I visited in 2018. We were allowed to look around inside, but had to wear hard hats. It was very impressive! I'd love to see it now that the work is completed.

Best tapas in toda Espana (IMHO!) were at the Bar Asador Jose, in Villanua, north of Jaca. Barkeep told me that they were made especially for his establishment by a little old lady who lived across the street.

Jaca might be worth a rest day, to sightsee and soak up the ambiance. Probably the only town on the Aragones about which I could say that.... The cathedral is of enormous interest and importance if you're into churches like me!, and the attached museum is excellent.

It is very impressive--a major tourist attraction I think. While I was there this September there was a Spanish guide giving a group of young people a tour of the grounds

 

[JerryStroebele]

Yes, a sight to behold. But, the newly remodeled municipal albergue about 4 km down the road in Canfranc Pueblo is even nicer for a pilgrim. Buen Camino

 

[jouffroy47]

Yes, a sight to behold. But, the newly remodeled municipal albergue about 4 km down the road in Canfranc Pueblo is even nicer for a pilgrim. Buen Camino

That I agree--absolutely first class. It is a donativo named after Elias Valina , the guy who came up with the idea of waymarking the trail with the yellow arrows.