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Coldest section of Camino Frances?

Delawhere

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
(May 2015)
I am trying to get an idea of the temperatures for the Camino Frances for mid-May. In general, what is the coldest area(s) of the route? I realize that the weather is highly variable not only from year to year but also from hour to hour but I am looking for what is the lowest temperature I am likely to encounter.

Thanks.
 
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Pretty cold early morning all along the plateau.

The attached was taken about 07:00 I think in Villadangos which I think is close to 3000 feet high.

A light jacket did the job for me, a couple of hours later it was lovely, and hot by the middle of the day.6249-6.jpg
 
If you are one of the 5am headlight bag rustlers you will obviously find it a lot colder than the after the sun has risen pilgrims. As one of the last to leave in a morning (usually 7:30) I find a light shell jacket over a T-shirt enough even in early May. But each to their own and I personally quite a hot person (in a temperature sense :() - probably due to the extra layer of insulation I carry!
 
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I can get very cold when I stop walking - when my body goes into close-down mode - but always heat up when walking, regardless of temperature.
 
Approaching Carrion de los Condes mid- May (elev: 2700ft), the bitter north wind was the coldest experience I had. The wind chill was very severe and hitherto well performing windproof jacket and trousers decided to take a well earned vacation: I was saved by my base layer, fleece, buff, gloves and beanie.

On that one day I could have done with long johns, and long sleeve base layer. (btw my first weeks walking mid April had seen +28c)
 
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I know this is not May, but this post got my attention and had a few giggles thinking about my coldest day!! I went in November, so obviously not the same weather at all. We did get a lot of very nice days with sun and walking in shorts and t-shirt. But that morning went I woke up somewhere between Rabanal and Molinaseca, I was heading Cruz de Ferro and there was a nice snow cover. Going up the mountain through Foncebadon, it was about -5C and very windy. Check these pictures :eek:) ... btw, afternoon, going down the mountain, I was again in shorts and had a big sunshine warming us up!!Screen Shot 2015-01-19 at 9.28.05 AM.png Screen Shot 2015-01-19 at 9.29.40 AM.png Screen Shot 2015-01-19 at 9.29.40 AM.png
 
My coldest day on any Camino was years ago when I walked the entire day in a cold rain in late May from Melide. The temperature wasn't anything unusual, but I learned how being essentially submerged in water for 8 hours can really lower your body temperature. Since that camino I now always carry lambswool gloves, which have saved my hands from shaking and freezing on many other rainy days.
 
I am trying to get an idea of the temperatures for the Camino Frances for mid-May. In general, what is the coldest area(s) of the route? I realize that the weather is highly variable not only from year to year but also from hour to hour but I am looking for what is the lowest temperature I am likely to encounter.

Thanks.
Hi Delawhere - In two of the 4 times I have been on the camino I have encountered snow in early May with a daytime temperature around freezing but quite windy. Both were just out of Leon. With silk long underwear, walking pants and rain pants, light merino wool sweater with a fleece vest and rain jacket, I was on the edge of being too cold but nothing serious. The next day in both cases was so hot that many people got badly sunburned.

I think it was May 1st in 2013, in SJPP the pilgrims office clearly said not to go over the Route Napoleon because the snow conditions were too dangerous. The next day it was open and, although a bit snowy underfoot here and there, it was not a problem. Other years I have crossed over on April 8th and 20th with no sign of snow at all.

As you mentioned 'the weather is highly variable'. Generally, cold spells don't last long in May but that doesn't say much about next May. The key to spring walking is be prepared for the variety. And yes - it will almost certainly rain - a lot. Think several light layers rather than anything too big. Make sure you can keep your feet dry as it can be mushy underfoot. That's the downside to spring walking. The upside more than makes up for those minor inconveniences!
 
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I am trying to get an idea of the temperatures for the Camino Frances for mid-May. In general, what is the coldest area(s) of the route? I realize that the weather is highly variable not only from year to year but also from hour to hour but I am looking for what is the lowest temperature I am likely to encounter.

Thanks.
I guess it can happen anywhere along the route but the stretch between Carrion & Calzadilla in May 2012 was the coldest I encountered.
Just having some of your face exposed was enough to keep you cold all day, a driving icy wind, just a miserable day for walking.
Still it all depends on what you are used to as well, in 2009 we walked in light shirts with a couple of girls from the NT who had to rug up from cold they weren't used to.
The key is probably to take layers and even on a cold day you usually warm up fairly quickly as the day goes on.
Buen Camino
Colin
 
Mid May 2013 in Portomarín: bl.... cold and rainy. Central heating on full blast in Albergue: we stayed two nights and then struggled on.:(
 
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The coldest night I experienced was at the albergue in Saint Juan de Ortega, beautiful Spring day 15 degrees C outside, and it was so cold within the ancient walls that people were up and out on the Camino at 0230 because conditions inside were arctic! I was out at 0400 after an almost sleepless night crouched fetal-like in my sleeping bag with two blankets, rubbing my ears with my knees. We also received a blessing, the odor of mildew and mold which remained until the next day. An unforgettable experience on the Camino, not one of my best, but certainly unforgettable.
 
I only walk May to September. My coldest? I think maybe 29th May 2013 on the Messata. It was a cold in your face windy day with a runny nose. Temperature? No idea and the lastthing I was interested in, the only one being finding a warm bar. Thank heaven for Bar Elvis in Reliegos! Two cortados con orujo did the trick until Mansilla, where a third shot got me to Villarente. So for that reason that 30k day from Hermanillos to Villarente slep gets my vote.
 
Bitter winter weather

On the Camino the sun shone and sky was cobalt blue, but the temperature was below freezing and bitter cold. Although the path was flat, the wind was fierce. Treeless this immense Castillian plateau known as the Meseta must be hot as hell in summer, but it felt like the Klondike. In 2006 S and I trudged 20 k across frozen mud and snowdrifts to Hornillos del Camino. Unheated, the municipal albergue was frigid, dismal and empty; at least there were blankets. An old farmer who lived nearby and served as hospitalero brought us cocoa powder and milk. We cooked pasta in the basement kitchen and crawled into our sleeping bags piled with blankets. Never in my life including the Canadian years have I spent the night in a colder interior space! Our breath hung suspended in the air!

It was a long cold slog in 2010 to the unheated municipal albergue at Villadangos del Páramo; the wind was brutal and rain teemed. The other pilgrims were a French couple traveling on bikes plus their two year old son who clad in a snowsuit rode in a enclosed little wagon pulled by his biking Daddy! Having been issued his own Credential, just like a grown-up, the little boy, too, was a bona fide pilgrim. His family had been traveling by bike throughout northern Europe including the wilds of Iceland for over one year and were vaguely headed towards north Africa after Santiago. It was fun to hear of their adventures and share their dreams. Nevertheless we all went to our bunks quite early in order to get warm or at least warmer! Luckily there were plenty of blankets available. By folding one in half and inserting my sleeping bag between the halves all was quite toasty. Wearing my 'evening dress' of socks, fleece pants, technical undershirt, and long-sleeved winter undershirt plus my woolly hat I was snug enough. However, I did dream enviously about that little boy's cozy snowsuit!
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
I am trying to get an idea of the temperatures for the Camino Frances for mid-May. In general, what is the coldest area(s) of the route? I realize that the weather is highly variable not only from year to year but also from hour to hour but I am looking for what is the lowest temperature I am likely to encounter.

Thanks.
www.wunderground.com
You can look up past weather for most of the Camino Frances.
I know weather is never predictable, but will give you an idea of daytime highs and lows, precipitation, etc.
 
The coldest area for me was Galicia! I walked in July/August and there were morning temperatures about 5 deg (just some days of course).

BUEN CAMINO! ;)
 
Some years, I froze on the Meseta in May.
In 2014, I froze in Roncesvalles in June.
Each year is different.
But my experience in May is that there are far more hot days than cold days.

But I've taken to NOT carrying a heavy coat because I find I never wear it no matter the weather.
When you are walking, you get hot fast, even in cold weather.
I think it's best (for me anyway) to take some light layers, then shed them.
For instance, if it's cold, I'll put on the following:

featherweight undershirt (something like smartwool or bamboo, which I"m growing to love)
long sleeved featherweight shirt (again, smartwool or bamboo)
short sleeved shirt (anything.. cotton, wool)
featherweight windbreaker (I have a Marmot wind/rain coat that is very lightweight and has zippers under the arms for ventilation.
Buff around my neck
Featherweight wool beanie on my head
If it's REALLY cold, I'll put up my hood over the beanie.

Within 10 minutes, I'm peeling off layers, no matter how cold it has been.
I rarely take gloves anymore because I end up wearing them only 5 minutes before peeling them off.
 
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Seen as we seasoned pilgrims have been frozen once in a time, how about starting an informative thread on the Hottest Section of the Camino Francés for mid-May?:eek: NB. Air conditioning is not a feature in the Caminos' albergues, but latest info is welcome:p
 
...................... buff, gloves and beanie.
Very light items and easy to find place for somewhere in your pack ............ a beanie is a must ......... one of the best temperature comfort controls to have.
 
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I started in late May from SJPdP. It was icy cold and very wet and muddy.

I would have paid $50 for a pair of gloves by the end of day one! By the time I got to Pamploma, however, where I planned to buy a pair of warm glove, I began to realize that I probably would not need gloves anymore and, actually, did not.

On my next Camino, I will take the same items I took on that first one, but I will include a lightweight pair of wool gloves.

As you can see in my profile photos, I have the "layered" idea down pat - thermal undershirt, tech shirt, fleece pullover, raincoat/windbreaker. I was comfortable the whole trip, which went into very early July.

As others have noted, the temperature differences throughout the day can be astounding.

I was one who NEVER left the albergue at the crack of dawn.
 
The coldest night I experienced was at the albergue in Saint Juan de Ortega, beautiful Spring day 15 degrees C outside, and it was so cold within the ancient walls that people were up and out on the Camino at 0230 because conditions inside were arctic! I was out at 0400 after an almost sleepless night crouched fetal-like in my sleeping bag with two blankets, rubbing my ears with my knees. We also received a blessing, the odor of mildew and mold which remained until the next day. An unforgettable experience on the Camino, not one of my best, but certainly unforgettable.

I remember my night at San Juan de Orgea with sadness and regret.

It was a miserable excuse for an albergue, in my opinion. It was cold, dirty, dark, noisy (creaking floors, door hinges, etc), and cramped. It was one of the few places where I did NOT take a shower at the end of the day because the bathroom was too nasty, even for me (and, believe me, as a mother of four and a camper, I have a high tolerance for nasty). The saddest part for me is that San Juan de Ortega is buried right there in the Church next to the albergue. He did so much to help the village - it broke my heart that the albergue was in such bad condition practically in his face.

I wrote about it on my blog and asked why "someone" doesn't take it upon themselves to fix that place.

Has anyone been there lately and can give an update? Is it improved??
 
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I am trying to get an idea of the temperatures for the Camino Frances for mid-May. In general, what is the coldest area(s) of the route? I realize that the weather is highly variable not only from year to year but also from hour to hour but I am looking for what is the lowest temperature I am likely to encounter.

Thanks.

Delawhere:

I walk during the March/April time-frame. I have found Galacian weather the most problematic. It is usually very wet and cold which tends to chill me to the bone. Otherwise, I am usually not wearing more than an Under Armor shirt and a fleece.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
When I was walking the Camino last year, my SmartWool shirt tore and I needed a new one.
There is a sporting goods shop in Astorga, the one with the giant backpack outside near the main square.
He had the shirts and so I bought it.
Be aware, it wasn't inexpensive, but I think it's worth the price.
It is SO warm, I was amazed, and it is sturdier.
I imagine you can find one online or in most sporting goods store, like REI?
Here is one from www.amazon.com. They actually have several you can choose from and the prices are GREAT!
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EFF9YIU/?tag=casaivar02-20
I think they're becoming common.
 
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Thanks very much. When I just google "women's bamboo shirt" I mostly get Alibaba and places like that.

EDIT and REI doesn't have any on their site, either men's or women's.
 
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Seen as we seasoned pilgrims have been frozen once in a time, how about starting an informative thread on the Hottest Section of the Camino Francés for mid-May?:eek: NB. Air conditioning is not a feature in the Caminos' albergues, but latest info is welcome:p

The bottom line is "you never know what the weather will be.," isn't it? Several times in my early Camino days, I'd get rid of my cold weather gear because I'd be walking in hot sun, only to have the weather turn cold (even SNOW) a day or two later. Now I go prepared, in layers.
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

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The Meseta almost did me in. The walk from Carrion de los Condes was my day from hell and as others have said it was the wind chill. And it was one of the few days I had sent my pack ahead and I could not add much in the way of warmer clothing. I totally underestimated the temperature because it was a clear sunny day. They were actually patrolling the route with the Camino ambulance and treating people for hypothermia.
 
The Meseta almost did me in. The walk from Carrion de los Condes was my day from hell and as others have said it was the wind chill. And it was one of the few days I had sent my pack ahead and I could not add much in the way of warmer clothing. I totally underestimated the temperature because it was a clear sunny day. They were actually patrolling the route with the Camino ambulance and treating people for hypothermia.
I know the weather is unpredictable, but please tell us what time of the year was this.
 
The coldest I've ever been on the Frances was at the beginning of May walking from SJPDP to Ronvesvalles via Valcarlos.
 
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Looking at her 'caminos past and present' info - it was May both times, SY
 
- 4 C. leaving Burgos, third week of April. It was an exquisite morning; I had gloves on and wore my buff on my head, but I sure wished I had a scarf to add to my fleece jacket, which was zipped all the way up. I know the buff can be worn around the head and neck at the same time.......but I won't go there. I'd rather be cold .............which I was, until it warmed up. :)
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Some years, I froze on the Meseta in May.
In 2014, I froze in Roncesvalles in June. Each year is different.

I rarely take gloves anymore because I end up wearing them only 5 minutes before peeling them off.

I agree with everything annie says except for the glove comment. I would never walk without my extremely lightweight lambswool gloves, even though I always walk in May, June or July. But maybe that's just me. So many cold mornings, and the gloves somehow seem to keep my whole body warm. And if it rains, as it probably will, wool gloves insulate even when wet, so I have definitely gotten my money's worth.
 
A high percentage of pilgrims try to minimise the weight of their packs whilst packing essential clothing.

This year, early morning in May, I met with Tom from Ireland who was wearing his woolen socks as gloves.

Next time I'll probably copy him.
 
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I know the weather is unpredictable, but please tell us what time of the year was this.
Sorry. I should have said. It was about the third week in May. The experience unsettled me so much that the next day I took the train to Leon rather than walk.
 
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Sorry. I should have said. It was about the third week in May. The experience unsettled me so much that the next day I took the train to Leon rather than walk.
This is the section of the Meseta that I had to bus, due to injuries. My companions continued walking from Carrión for a few days (this was three weeks earlier in the season) but, eventually, they too resorted to taking a bus to León because of the piercing wind. I'd still like to walk that section one day tho'.
 
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The coldest I experienced mid-May-ish was the Cruz de Ferro day – surprise spring snowstorm! As a Canadian, it was of no real hardship to me as I’d just come from winter back home but for those not used to snow, it was tough. I think it is important to remember that crossing mountains can include variable weather…including May snow. It was pretty, though! I was happy to have had my layers, thin gloves (ones that can expose my fingers if I so chose) and a Buff.

Quick description of that day can be found here, if interested http://rustytraveltrunk.com/2014/09/19/wpc-endurance/
 
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I am trying to get an idea of the temperatures for the Camino Frances for mid-May. In general, what is the coldest area(s) of the route? I realize that the weather is highly variable not only from year to year but also from hour to hour but I am looking for what is the lowest temperature I am likely to encounter.

Thanks.
The weather in mid May can vary and thus one place that is typically warm or cold in one year can be cold or warm in the next year.

For example I have walked the Frances route twice; once in 2007 and later in 2011.

The first time, the "coldest" places were probably crossing the Pyrenees from France into Spain (it was in fact late April and not really cold but cool) due it being a wet and foggy day, again on May 1 because it rained all day and later in June in Galicia (cool but not cold) for all the same reasons.

This said I crossed the Meseta in mid May and it was warm, even hot some days.

Jump forward to 2011 ...

I crossed the Pyrenees mid May and it was cool but not cold. Galicia was typically cool and wet some days but not all days. But when I crossed the Meseta in early June it was cool even cold some days. For example arriving in Burgos the early morning temperature was only 5 degrees and it never got over 12 degrees that day. It was like this all the way to Leon whereby I even hiked in my fleece some days.

So be prepared for anything.
 
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I walked in both March and September. The coldest I ever felt was on the Meseta on Good Friday and climbing up out of Castrojeriz on an early morning in September. However at both times of year, once the sun got up a bit, the jacket was off and shortly after, the fleece came off. Personally, I am more concerned about the rain. Did not happen often but when it did, boy did it rain
 
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I agree with everything annie says except for the glove comment. I would never walk without my extremely lightweight lambswool gloves, even though I always walk in May, June or July. But maybe that's just me. So many cold mornings, and the gloves somehow seem to keep my whole body warm. And if it rains, as it probably will, wool gloves insulate even when wet, so I have definitely gotten my money's worth.
I will be walking in July and I do get cold easily. I really enjoy hot weather. :) Do you think I will need gloves for my walk? Thanks.
 
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On 6 July 2014 I rode one of the horses up to O Cebreiro in a rain and sleet storm after walking most of the morning from Trabadelo. I was wet from sweat and wearing only a t-shirt under my poncho. Wow, was that a miserable day.
 
I will be walking in July and I do get cold easily. I really enjoy hot weather. :) Do you think I will need gloves for my walk? Thanks.

Hi, Tina,
All I can tell you is that I personally would never walk without my extremely lightweight lambswool gloves, 1.2 oz. the pair, according to my kitchen scale. In the rain, they insulate beautifully (and the rain in Galicia can be very cold) and even in July there are chilly mornings in hilly/mountainous areas. I'm sure I'm in a distinct minority here, there are probably very few people walking in July with wool gloves, but they've made the difference for me on a number of occasions. Buen camino, Laurie
 
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Hi, Tina,
All I can tell you is that I personally would never walk without my extremely lightweight lambswool gloves, 1.2 oz. the pair, according to my kitchen scale. In the rain, they insulate beautifully (and the rain in Galicia can be very cold) and even in July there are chilly mornings in hilly/mountainous areas. I'm sure I'm in a distinct minority here, there are probably very few people walking in July with wool gloves, but they've made the difference for me on a number of occasions. Buen camino, Laurie

Oh, I am a self professed "cold wimp" (even as a Canadian, it's horrible!) so thank you. I was not expecting that. I guess gloves are on my list of things to bring! Thank you for sharing your experience.
 
Oh, I am a self professed "cold wimp" (even as a Canadian, it's horrible!) so thank you. I was not expecting that. I guess gloves are on my list of things to bring! Thank you for sharing your experience.

In Spanish, there's a great word for what we are -- "friolera." (from frio, cold). We don't really have a good word for that concept. Make sure they're wool, and lambswool were the lightest I could find, just wrist length. Let me know if you used them, or if you thought they were ridiculously unnecessary. Remember, I am probably the only person on the forum who would suggest you bring gloves in July! Are you walking the Frances?

Buen camino, Laurie
 
......I am probably the only person on the forum who would suggest you bring gloves in July!
I'm with you on this, Laurie. I have Raynaud's phenomenon (which wasn't diagnosed until I moved from the tropics to colder climes). I certainly wouldn't venture out on the Camino without gloves, at any time of the year ... there're mountains out there! And I do like your suggestion of lambs wool.:)
 
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An emergency solution for missing gloves is simply wearing a pair of socks as gloves. Doesn't look pretty, but if you need them only a couple of times during a summer Camino it is something to bear in mind. Buen Camino! SY
 
Another good emergency solution for late autumn/winter/early spring is to use plastic bags held in place over your socks with rubber bands in place of 'forgotten' gaiters. Messy they may be but better than nothing!
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-

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