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2019 Camino Guides

Entering Najera in the rain

#1
If it is still raining today, you should consider walking on the road above the track leading into Najera especially those of you who wear sneakers. I have been slipping so much on the slogging red mud that I cursed myself for not climbing up on the bank and walk up there.
It is very chilly last night in Najera. Rain in Sto de Caldaza.
The white chickens are doing well when I last looked in at 7 pm.
Beun Camino all of you perigrinos and perigrinas out there.
 
#2
Glad to hear you are hanging in there despite the weather, wichanee.
Your spirits seem good!
What has your experience been with food, lodging and the level of foot traffic on the camino. Is it busy?
 

Jupp

New Member
#3
What has your experience been with food, lodging and the level of foot traffic on the camino. Is it busy?[/quote]

Food is OK, although it's sunday and difficult to find a menu de peregrino, but we found in Najera, and it was good. Walking was very good untill it started raining in the afternoon. And traffic is a problem because it seems to be overcrowded, although the last beds in Najera were given around 6 in the afternoon. So the same story every day, get up early and rush for a bed ! Lots of germans on the way.
Jupp
 
#4
Today it's Wednesday, it must be Burgos!

I need to warn you guys out there on reaching Burgos.
I have read with careful attention about the Burgos approach both on Lonely planet's Walking Spain and Walking the Camino by Bethan Davies and try my best to follow their alternative route. Alas, the terrain must have changed and either the abandoned military post or the airfield was located on today's walk so we had to follow the yellow arrow as our lifeline which means the most boring trek through Burgos's industrial suburb into town. I saw at least 6 perigrinos jump in the bus heading to Burgos when we hit the main road. Wish I had done the same.
A friend who has done the river approach reported of no better fate, what with super giant container trucks whizzing by in every direction and mad drivers who try to overtake even at the blind bend. I would never repeat my walk on that stretch again!
Is it possible that someone (or the Fraternity of St.James) takes a serious look at this approach and do something better than sending us on such a mindless drag into town?
If you have reached town on better route, you are lucky!
And if you are thinking of posting your warm clothes to SdC because it is now end of May, think again. It has been freezing cold in Najera, Sto Domingo and Belorado. Weather forecast doesn't look great either until the next week when the cold front from France is supposed to pass through.
Wild flowers and bird songs are exceptional. Heard Cuckoo chirpings on the way up from Atapeurca all the way. What a sweet voice to accompany you when the wind is trying to push you off the mountain!
Buen Camino all!
 
#5
why are you sounding so precious - you can't expect to walk across a whole country on paths/roads that can cope with the volume of pilgrims on the Camino and not come across a few uncomfortable stretches - and don't even think about getting the bus
 
#6
Still in Burgos

Sounding so precious?
I reread my post again and can't see how you reached that conclusion.
I spent sometime on extra rest day here in Burgos and thought the walk into town could be through the riverside as suggested buy several guidebooks. Given choices of either dragging your feet on the 7 kms path along the busy highway or the greenery along the riverside, even the toughest peregrinos would choose the later, methinks.
 

KiwiNomad06

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Le Puy-Santiago(2008) Cluny-Conques+prt CF(2012)
#7
wichanee, I am enjoying your posts from the Camino itself very much. I am glad there are pilgrims who are able to post while on the route, who are not afraid to say truthfully how they are finding things. Joys will be mixed with difficulties. Please keep up these honest posts and know that they are appreciated.
 

Minkey

Active Member
#8
Erm... don't most Spanish cities have industrial outskirts? As Spursfan says, it's only for a short stretch... Probably no more than an hour on foot.
 
#9
My harsh words were intended for those that took the bus so quickly - for me, knowing that the train would be the last transport I would use apart from walking for the next few weeks meant that it was easy to resist such temptation

And the brief grim suburbs made me appreciate the wonderful tranquillity of the path for all the other hundreds of miles
 
#10
grim outskirts

As Minkey says you take the rough with the smooth on the Way.

Surely it is the time to use the other beautiful experience of the Camino and engage in conversation with a fellow pilgrim, when you meet someone really interesting you can get so lost in listening to their life stories that you soon forget your surroundings. The commercial freeway will be forgotten as you learn and gain from the insights of others.

Thats my experience anyway.
 
#11
Minkey said:
Erm... don't most Spanish cities have industrial outskirts? As Spursfan says, it's only for a short stretch... Probably no more than an hour on foot.
That's true for Pamplona, Logrono, Leon and Santiago, but Burgos is more than a short stretch and you start thinking why they can't find another solution for a 100.000 pelgrims a year... Idem for the very dangerous crossing of a highway just before reaching Leon.
Lahav
 
#12
There's an alternate route to the entrance to Burgos, which I took in mid May after the suggestion of a fellow German pilgrim. It's probably longer by about 4-5 kms., but avoids the boring industrial area. It's marked, albeit not too prominently, leaving the main route to the left near Castañares, passing near a military base and after that, just a few kilometers of ugly boring sights until it reaches a park area and continues alongside the river all the way to the city. Just beautiful!
 

Trudy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
(2006) Roncesvalles to Leon (2007) Leon to Compostela
#13
Entrance to burgos

Hi Wichanee, I've heard the walk into Burgos is dreadful, and while I understand how you felt. Although have to say I, along with many other pilgrims, followed the CSJ's advice and took the bus for the last 8 kms. If the CSJ recommends this, I'll go along with it!
 

marktqm

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2006)
#14
The Camino is often said to be a microcosm (or metaphor) of Life. It is not pretty scenic trails throughout. Yes there are the dangerous crossings and dreary slogs into town but it's all part of the Camino package, I think. No different from the wide open hot meseta experience. I have learned during the walk to accept that fact.

Mark
 
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