Epicamino

[Bradypus]

The cheap dried fruit and nuts are on me!

The good news is that nuts are never in short supply on the Camino Frances.....

 

[david1]

What time did you arrive into SJPDP? I'm curious if you faced still departing pilgrims, tourists on bus trips, or if the first trainload of new pilgrims had arrived. Was the pilgrim's office a madhouse?

Arrived about 1.30. I think that a train may well have arrived...and the pilgrim's office was hotting up.

 

[VNwalking]

Good company and good rest tonight, David...tomorrow will be a different sort of day.

 

[Isobeljc]

Thank you so much for your posts. I have read every single one and thoroughly enjoyed them. I really felt like I was with you, even if only virtually. You have given me lots of ideas for the future.

Looking forward to the next section as it will be on familiar territory for me. Keep up the good work.

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

If only you could slow down a bit, I'll see you en route! I'm starting from Fromista on 1st or 2nd May.

 

[david1]

Couldn't sleep until 3am last night...boo! Quiet room and all... just all excited like the big kid I am!
Waiting for the supermarket to open so I can get supplies...then up up up!

 

[VNwalking]

You're probably not the only one there who was lying awake like a kid on Christmas Eve...
By now you're well on your way up that hill and into Spain! Wow.
Buen camino, peregrino!

 

[Kathar1na]

Arrived!!!
View attachment 54711

One of the few who had their picture taken on this side of the gate and the town wall .

 

[Bradypus]

One of the few who had their picture taken on this side of the gate and the town wall .

I think @david1 is a traditionalist who likes to remember the days when vagabonds, lepers and other undesirables were kept at a distance. Us 'umble folks knows our place....

 

[david1]

I think @david1 is a traditionalist who likes to remember the days when vagabonds, lepers and other undesirables were kept at a distance. Us 'umble folks knows our place....

Absolutely!
Last to leave.. supplies in.
Everyone is passing me but it's not a race
Then I passed someone "Oo!" I thought "I'm not going that slow" we walked along together for a while... turned out that he's breaking in a new prosthetic leg! So, yup, I'm plodding along. (And very happy to do so)

Met a Dutch guy, Martin (picture) yesterday and he cooked us a steak dinner! And we shared a very good bottle of wine, which I regret ever so slightly now.

Yay! People! Conversation!

 

[FamPed]

I love to follow your adventures. Thank you so much for bringing us along with you. ☺
My hat of for this astonishing Camino. May the rest of your journey be blessed with everything you need and long for. Ultreia!

 

[Kathar1na]

I think @david1 is a traditionalist who likes to remember the days when vagabonds, lepers and other undesirables were kept at a distance. Us 'umble folks knows our place....

LOL but it was of course not what I was thinking of. It's a special feeling when you approach this gate with many miles behind you.

 

[Bradypus]

Then I passed someone "Oo!" I thought "I'm not going that slow" we walked along together for a while... turned out that he's breaking in a new prosthetic leg! So, yup, I'm plodding along. (And very happy to do so)

A long time ago I read something Jimmy Tarbuck wrote. He was playing in a charity golf tournament. When he changed in the locker room there was only one older man there. Tarbuck had twisted his knee a couple of days before and was complaining that it would make it really hard to play the match. The older man just made sympathetic noises for a while then turned around and clanked his way across the room. It was only then that Jimmy Tarbuck realised he had been banging on about a sore knee to Douglas Bader - a man famous for having no legs

 

[david1]

Easily the most challenging day yet.
Got lost again, how me and the guy I was walking with missed the several signs I don't know
Mostly in the company if these guys. Nik from Holland and Joe from Australia made the walk much quicker..
Dinner bought for 8.30pm then bed for me...

 

[NorthernLight]

Which albergue are you in? I don't recognize the room.

 

[Bradypus]

Easily the most challenging day yet.

Probably 'cos most of France is pretty flat! It gets quite lumpy round the edges though When I walked from Canterbury to Rome I didn't like the look of the official Via Francigena route through northern France so I made my own way to Besancon mostly on canals. By their very nature canals do not give you much scope for mountaineering. I'd been walking a couple of weeks when I saw a huge lock up ahead. Maybe 30 feet or so high. After so much time on the flat I thought it looked like the Alps! Two weeks later when I walked up to the Grand Saint Bernard pass I realised that might be a little bit of an exaggeration Good news is that the worst of the lumpy stuff is now behind you with only a couple more fairly stiff hills in front of you. And they are a way off yet....

 

[david1]

Which albergue are you in? I don't recognize the room.

Oh crikey! I've got to get on my feet again now and find out
First one that I came across. It's big..
(Yeah, I'm too tired to find out ) it's this one

 

[NorthernLight]

Rest. Eat. Hydrate. Sleep. Tomorrow is coming.

 

[Delphinoula]

Brad is you dayjob comedy ? Lumpy edges in deed.
Dave I love your selfies.

 

[Kathar1na]

Which albergue are you in? I don't recognize the room.

Oh crikey! I've got to get on my feet again now and find out First one that I came across. It's big.. (Yeah, I'm too tired to find out ) it's this one

Stay were you are @david1, you deserve a rest after your long day.

@NorthernLight, the room shown in the photo is the upper (third) floor of the one and only and large albergue of Roncesvalles.

 

[Former member 49149]

Easily the most challenging day yet.
Got lost again, how me and the guy I was walking with missed the several signs I don't know
Mostly in the company if these guys. Nik from Holland and Joe from Australia made the walk much quicker..
Dinner bought for 8.30pm then bed for me...
View attachment 54781View attachment 54782View attachment 54783View attachment 54784View attachment 54785

David, well done. Now, a different kettle of fish from the one you bought some weeks back. I really look forward to your accounts of your experience from here on, as it will certainly have a totally different accent... not just in language! Buen Camino, Chico!

 

[NorthernLight]

@NorthernLight, the room shown in the photo is the upper (third) floor of the one and only and large albergue of Roncesvalles.

Thanks. I've never been on that floor. The picture of the room had me wondering if the upper level of the small hostal (the one shown in that movie) had been renovated.

No bunks! A serious score!

 

[david1]

Early start

 

[FamPed]

Enjoy!

 

[Former member 49149]

Early start
View attachment 54824

Holy ground: something about your stance and gaze drew those two words from me. It is all holy ground, David. I think you know that...take care, buen camino onwards and upwards.

 

[VNwalking]

Wonderful. Roncesvalles...and now onward!
Enjoy.
Today is one of my favorite days of the Frances.
Just take care going down into Zubiri. It's a bit 'interesting.'
Muy buen camino, peregrino.

 

[david1]

All bunched up together...and all good company...

 

[david1]

Yay! I'm sitting on this balcony having a great coffee and vape After standing in the river bare feet for 8 minutes, which an althlete amongst us instists my foots will thank me for...
Felt like a stroll in the park today, and the aggreable company only made it better. Three chefs in the company are excited to cook for us...yup; it keeps getting better

 

[VNwalking]

Well, the Zubiri hill is behind you. Yay.
Enjoy that meal! Better and better indeed.
And I second the recommendation of @kirkie to go up to the church at Zabaldika tomorrow...a very special place, cared for by very special people.

 

[david1]

Stopped here... and here. Keeping in the same company as they're all so awesom
The sun has broken out and u have lots of shade. Second breakfast consumed...

 

[Former member 49149]

Stopped here... and here. Keeping in the same company as they're all so awesom
The sun has broken out and u have lots of shade. Second breakfast consumed...
View attachment 54905View attachment 54906View attachment 54907View attachment 54909

So, you met Neil? A work in progress, and an interesting story.

 

[david1]

So, you met Neil? A work in progress, and an interesting story.

Yup! Nice guy and good to see the work in progress.
Pamplona arrival... and Zabaldika, which was very moving up in the belfry; nobody said a word instinctively.

 

[david1]

Coffee in, Hemingway and the bullring..and we're off!

 

[david1]

Getting hot...two hours from dinner!

 

[david1]

Today was a "rest day" so we walked 17 km to here..which I'm sure that we are all familiar with

Downhill afterwards was a bit of a struggle, I had to put my umbrella down and use my stick; heavy twisted ancle terrain!
Arrived in Utergo and stopped here in a refuge. All of us starving hungry so Joe from Australia decided to show us video of the barbecue grill fare he cooks at home.
Got to hand it to the Aussies for friendly wind ups.
37 minutes until dinner. Tick tock tick tock tick tock...

 

[NorthernLight]

Consider the alternate route tomorrow by Eunate, even though the church will likely be closed. It'll add a couple km to your walk, but still plop you back on the Frances at Obanos.

 

[VNwalking]

I'm so glad you got to Zabaldika.

Downhill afterwards was a bit of a struggle, I had to put my umbrella down and use my stick; heavy twisted ancle terrain!

It's a trial for everyone. It's the worst terrain you'll see until you get to the downhill into Acebo and then Molinaseca....a while from now. Second the motion to go via Eunate. It's a treat.
Lovely weather you're having! Nice.

 

[david1]

Stopped at an eight sided church "Eunate" which is the only eight sided church in Europe.
Having lunch in Maneru right now...
Hazy warm weather just right for pilgrimating.

 

[Bradypus]

Stopped at an eight sided church "Eunate" which is the only eight sided church in Europe.

Really?
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Octagonal_churches

And you might want to try counting the walls when you get to the (allegedly) Templar church in Torres del Rio too

 

[Former member 49149]

Stopped at an eight sided church "Eunate" which is the only eight sided church in Europe.
Having lunch in Maneru right now...
Hazy warm weather just right for pilgrimating.
View attachment 55049View attachment 55050View attachment 55052View attachment 55053

So good to see you enjoying the Camino in Spain, David. I wonder, if you were to spend time afterwards, writing, what would your book look like???

 

[david1]

So good to see you enjoying the Camino in Spain, David. I wonder, if you were to spend time afterwards, writing, what would your book look like???

It would have to come in at least four volumes!

 

[david1]

Moving out... Breakfast in Lorca at the moment..

 

[david1]

I'm 6kg light after the trip to the post office... then someone gets me to carry the beer

 

[david1]

Public toilets for the lady...
And a rather nice water source... I'm in Estelle now which means soon at the wine fountain. Ooo!

 

[david1]

But the wine fountain was empty for the day.

 

[NorthernLight]

They put out a fixed amount of wine each day. Too many pilgrims fill their water bottle rather than just take a glassful.

 

[david1]

They put out a fixed amount of wine each day. Too many pilgrims fill their water bottle rather than just take a glassful.

I trust they're having karmic hangovers
Up at 4.30 this morning.. Some peeps moaning about"injuries" and it makes me think that they're warming up to justifying catching a bus There's a bit of that going on, but to each their own I guess...
Albergue was full last night, one of the party managed to get the sofa, Easter week so things are a busier than usual.
6.45ish so time to get back on my way...

 

[VNwalking]

Too many pilgrims fill their water bottle rather than just take a glassful.

Greedy sods. Sorry you missed out David. Happy walk today. God's country. ☺

 

[FamPed]

I have walked with you via your text and pictures from the start. Thank you for the adventures you share with us. ☺ Have a nice walk today.

 

[david1]

The Camino crowds seem to have started early this year, two Spaniards have mentioned it.
Here we early risers are getting chairs put out before time, I say early but it is Spain so it's only 9.30 am

 

[david1]

Greedy sods. Sorry you missed out David. Happy walk today. God's country. ☺

I still managed to get a spoonful in my shell... plus an extra laugh.
Spirit of the Camino

 

[david1]

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

They make a nice Sangria there!

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

And open early for breakfast

 

[david1]

Stopped at the unlawful bar... I like free thinkers

 

[david1]

Walked 30km today, the longest day yet.
So mighty pleased to see this sign. Friends ahead of me have bagged me a bed, someone else may well be gathering a wash together and someone else may well be arranging a fellowship dinner... happy days!

 

[NorthernLight]

Viana?

 

[Delphinoula]

Than you and again one of those famous wild dogs. It’s dog right? You came so far!

 

[david1]

Left Vianna this morning and a short walk to Logrono, only 10km.
Trying to find a nice place to stay for the six of us, for a well earned and needed rest. And out of the rain...

 

[VNwalking]

I vividly remember that overpass.
And a creeping unease after Viana - as a woman walking alone I did not feel safe. A car had slowed down to obviusly check me out before the chapel and it colored my experience the whole rest of the way into the city. I have never felt happier to arrive.

Enjoy the tapas, David. Well earned!

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

Easy to take the morning bus from Viana to Logrono, then spend more time in the city.

 

[david1]

Easy to take the morning bus from Viana to Logrono, then spend more time in the city.

I wouldn't take the bus...

 

[david1]

All the Catholic celebrations going on over this Easter weekend. I missed out on the procession last night, opting for sleep and dinner over pinchos and too much wine
But there are more today so that is cool.
Rest day. Strolling not walking.

 

[david1]

Best description yet...

 

[VNwalking]

Best description yet..

Yup. Thank you for this.

Happy rest day and Good Friday, David!
I wouldn't know but am told Logrono is the Pinchos capital of the planet.
Meanwhile, there is also a Michelangelo there:

I second the Logroño suggestion. And please take time to view and contemplate the Michelangelo painting in the Cathedral. (Read its story first and it will engrave itself in your heart for life.)

 

[david1]

Yup. Thank you for this.

Happy rest day and Good Friday, David!
I wouldn't know but am told Logrono is the Pinchos capital of the planet.
Meanwhile, there is also a Michelangelo there:

We are off to see that right now!

 

[david1]

Well, that went well.
The Michaelangelo is covered over for the whole festive period.
However I did see on the internet later
Meanwhile here's some random pictures before my siesta.

Jesus getting cross. Police grabbing selfies. And the more realistic view of the last refugue.
Off for rioja and a much anticipated Easter procession. Until tomorrow my fellow pilgrims.
Peacenlovenostuffx

 

[Bradypus]

The Michaelangelo is covered over for the whole festive period.

This isn't the festive period. This is the penitential period - the festive season starts on Saturday night. They probably uncover it once the festive season starts.

 

[VNwalking]

The Michaelangelo is covered

But but...what about pilgrims?
Geeze, no fair.

Jesus getting cross

David.
Jesus does not get cross.
He's doing tai chi.

 

[david1]

A 6am start and arrived in Najera. This Easter week is really making bed finding a job, however we arrived here at 2.30 after a 30km hike. Washing on, showered and fed. The procession last night was fantastic, if tiring on the feet just stood there

 

[david1]

Yes...

 

[Former member 49149]

View attachment 55546
Yes...

I agree...

 

[david1]

Overcast today, so excellent walking weather. I think that I may have been bitten by bedbugs I've dumped the clothes I was wearing that night, and may well be doing the same to my sleeping bag. Ah well.
Not too far to Santiago de Compostela now though!

 

[david1]

I've landed safely in a very nice refugue in Saint Domingo de la Calzada.. €8 for the night
I can't report any improvement in the Saint James sculptures though.
Pasta and vino then an early night, followed by an early start..

 

[NorthernLight]

Throw your clothes & sleeping bag into a hot dryer for half an hour.

 

[david1]

Throw your clothes & sleeping bag into a hot dryer for half an hour.

Thanks! Saved me from throwing a lot of stuff away. Slept in the sleeping bag last night and no bites

 

[david1]

Asleep by 8pm...yay! But missed the community dinner...boo!
First one up though, and all on my own, coffee and vape in hand. A rare few minutes of solitude. Do I like it? I'm not quite sure..
One thing that I have learned on my Way is the value of company, and that everyone is beautiful; just that some people hide it. (Or sumink )

 

[david1]

Stopped at Granon for second breakfast

 

[david1]

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

In other words, slow down a bit! Take a rest day or two in Burgos.

 

[david1]

In other words, slow down a bit! Take a rest day or two in Burgos.

Absolutely! No more than 25 km from now on.
In Belorado now and it's only 2pm and I've stopped for the day

 

[Former member 49149]

Absolutely! No more than 25 km from now on.
In Belorado now and it's only 2pm and I've stopped for the day

I loved the bunks in the albergue there where we stayed. The owner ( a pilgrim himself) had got them made to his specifications, so even if you tried you could not hit your head off the underside of the top bunks. And there was a lovely little rectangular pool in the yard for bathing tired and sore feet.

 

[david1]

I had an early start this morning. I'm trying to get into the habit of doing this, it's better being one of the first in the refugue for kitchen and bunk choice etc.
Saw a cool chapel built into the cliff, by a village called "Tosantos" But way too far away for a detour...
Considering a half day today as the weather is closing in, and I got little sleep last night thanks to the snoring elephant

 

[Purky]

"Way too far away for a detour" says the man who is walking from West Wales to Santiago...

 

[david1]

Halted for rest day at Villafranca Monte's de Oca and found a plush refugue in the San Anton Abad hotel.
It's raining and the sky has turned into a gun metal grey... Had myself a nap for a couple of hours, now waiting for the pilgrims meal later, which is very good, I was told earlier by an pilgrim leaving...

 

[VNwalking]

Wise move David.
One of my favorite photos comes from the stretch ahead, with the weather having closed in:
View media item 2557And the albergue in San Juan de Ortega felt like the coldest place on earth, literally and figuratively.
But the church there is special, so do not pass it by tomorrow if you can get in.

 

[NorthernLight]

Is the municipal albergue in Villafranca Monte de Oco still closed? It had to shut down a few years ago as the Abad put them out of business. It was a serious shame, as summer income kept it open in winter. Meanwhile the Abad would shut their albergue in winter, shutting pilgrims out of cheap beds.

 

[david1]

I just got snowed on for most of the morning!

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

It often snows up there!

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

Photo taken 15 May 2015.

 

[Bradypus]

I just got snowed on for most of the morning!

If it is any consolation at least you are not up in O Cebreiro! Screenshot from the webcam there this morning

 

[david1]

If it is any consolation at least you are not up in O Cebreiro! Screenshot from the webcam there this morning View attachment 55832

Feel much warmer... unlike the beer in my hand.

 

[Hilarious]

Hi David. Have read all your posts. An amazing journey! Wishing you all the very best from Oz.

 

[david1]

I'm getting into this early start. 5.30 this morning.I have to be more careful with my footing, and spotting waymarkers in the dark, but this seems to make the time pass quickly, having something to think about. So here I am now just an hour or so from Burgos.

 

[david1]

Here's where I am staying tonight. Very quiet, only 20 beds. €5 and donation for dinner and breakfast, the door shuts at 8pm and you cannot stay if you stayed anywhere in Burgos last night or if you got here by bus. If you just want rest and a spiritual atmosphere then this is the perfect place.
Just what I need.

Burgos!

 

[NorthernLight]

The views from the citadel grounds are lovely. Burgos cathedral is lovely, full of alibaster. The main part is museum now, but there is still access for prayer at the front end.

 

[VNwalking]

Wonderful that you're in Burgos already, David.
And at Emaus. I've tried to find it but always end up in the giant and souless municipal.
Enjoy! A wonderful city.
And...tomorrow morning....there is a very nice place for breakfast near the gate leading from the river to the plaza next to the cathedral. It was more a coffee place than a restaurant...alas I cannot find it on google maps...anyone know the place I'm thinking of? It has an entrance on the plaza side as well as on the river side...

 

[david1]

Yay! It's second breakfast time!

 

[david1]

I'm in the albergue"Liberanos" for this evening, so just a short walk today . Not being able to get up and out until 7am this morning messed up my 5.30 starts a little, so it's dinner and an early night for this merry pilgrim.
The weather has brightened up but with a cool breeze still.

And have a look at the slightly scary water fountain

And the mural where the time has been taken to even paint the padlock and chain.

 

[NorthernLight]

Rabé always seemed to be a pilgrim friendly pueblo.