Give Hornillos a miss if you can

[carriedavey]

Hiya Folks! Buen Camino!

Having just got back to OZ I thought I'd let folk know of our experience at Hornillos on May 1st. My Wife and I left Burgos in the morning and arrived in Hornillos at around 2:30pm. We knocked at the door of the Casa rural and got no reply (apparently nobody answers the phone or door as it's booked up solid for months!) moving on to the local bar we found loads of pilgrims milling around as there was not a room to be had for love nor money! (the albergue had filled up in minutes!) by luck we were able to get in touch with a local who picked us up in his car and took us to Los Quintanellas around 10kms away! BE WARNED

 

[mspath]

Hiya Folks! Buen Camino!

Having just got back to OZ I thought I'd let folk know of our experience at Hornillos on May 1st. My Wife and I left Burgos in the morning and arrived in Hornillos at around 2:30pm. We knocked at the door of the Casa rural and got no reply (apparently nobody answers the phone or door as it's booked up solid for months!) moving on to the local bar we found loads of pilgrims milling around as there was not a room to be had for love nor money! (the albergue had filled up in minutes!) by luck we were able to get in touch with a local who picked us up in his car and took us to Los Quintanellas around 10kms away! BE WARNED

Here is another GREAT casa rurale possibility near-by in Vilviestre de Muño. http://www.hispaniarural.com/burgos-rur ... mino.htm#F This is a handsome and most comfortable bed and breakfast in a renovated water mill. If you telephone they will pick you up on the Camino and bring you back to the same spot next morning. I happily stayed there in February 2009 when the Hornillos albergue was closed for badly needed basic renovation.

Margaret Meredith

 

[tyrrek]

I had a similar experience at Hornillos on my first Camino, including being offered a lift to a place off-route. I decided to carry on to Hontanas, which I didn't really want to do, but the additional 10kms or so ended up being one of the highlights of my camino, and certainly the highlight of the meseta. In the mid-late afternoon the route was quiet and I loved the peace and solitude where you can't see a road or building for as far as the eye can see (apart from a few windmills). Even Hontanas itself is one of those sneaky little places that you can't see from a distance and only appears into view as you arrive there!

Buen Camino!

 

[Anniesantiago]

San Bol is also wonderful!

 

[annakappa]

Last year we stayed at Rabe de las Calzadas at the lovely Lberhue Libranos Domine, so as to be able to walk the next stretch comfortably avoiding Hornillos, where we had stayed in the past, and frankly it's on my "worst Albergue list". Actually there is only one other Albergue that I would really try to avoid and that is Larrasoaña! Anne

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Last year we stayed at Rabe de las Calzadas Anne

We also did that in 2008. Gave us a 'short' day out of Burgos instead of staying there two nights for a rest day. It was a good option, then we also walked onto Hontanas the next day.
Margaret

 

[Madidi]

Had the same Hornillos experience September last. The first view from the hills as we approached the village was beautiful and having so looked forward to getting there, we were very disappointed in not finding any spare beds.

We slogged on to Hontanas and had a great nights craic. So all's well that ends well

 

[Vigdis]

I also came to Close doors at the Rural there in 2008.
Thought I would walk on to Hontanas. It was too far for me though, so I spend the night at a very simple but oh so lovely albergue in San Bol.

Thanks for the warning, for NeXT time when I shall start my walk from Burgos.
Good idea to stop in Rabe, annakappa.

 

[3walkingtoSantiago]

Yes, that was our longest day, from Burgos to Hontanas. We had planned it that way, having spent two nights in Burgos and being very well-rested, but it was still a hard slog. I wasn't impressed with the tiny bit of Hornillos we saw when we stopped for a snack.

Coming down the path and finally seeing Hontanas ahead of me was one of the best sights of my camino - I was TIRED! It helped a lot that my husband and son had gone on ahead and already has a room booked! I had a beer and a shower and a rest and all was well.

That walk - mostly solitary - over the meseta from Hornillos to Hontanas was AWESOME.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

There just are not enough beds in Hornillos. I don't think any of the places is bad for the price; it is simply a problem of getting one of the beds.'the albergue was great on a cold March day with a wood burning stove and excellent company. Everything else was closed because there was too few pilgrims to open, something of an irony for this thread.

San Bol has its advocates, and the hospitalero who slipped into women's beds has moved on. There is still no electricity or treated water, so think of it as camping!

 

[reg2450]

Ahhhhh... San Bol

Like cool water to a weary soul. It was 'up there' on my favourite list, and certainly Georgia's favourite. God told us to stop there (through the incessant wind, rain and cold) and we were blessed.

It looks like NOTHING, but it is EVERYTHING!! Definitely do not judge this book by its tiny cover.

 

[Deleted member 22638]

This May, San Bol had electricity from about 6.00pm to about 8.30pm and the end of the communal dinner. Worked well. Water was potable and the external plunge pool a great relief for sore feet. Heating was a superb hypercaust affair (what did the Romans ever do for us? ) and I one of the best Albergue experiences I had.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Yes, I loved San Bol!
The floors were heated.
There was electricity for long enough to charge phones
The food was great
It was peaceful
Probably my favorite albergue now.

 

[Sheffield James]

I have no view on avoiding Hornillos but I would caution against banking on securing a bed at Hontanas if that is your end of day destination. I tried to get a bed in mid May (late afternoon, admittedly) and was one of four people who slept in the sub-terranean dining room of the municipal albergue. Several others were going to join us but somehow managed to get fixed up elsewhere. I had to sleep under the stars betwen Larrasoana and Pamplona and I found that experience more comfortable than staying under cover at this albergue. Maybe it would have been OK if I'd had a sleeping bag, but as I didn't have one when sleeping outside the comparison I make between the two experiences is a fair one. To make matters worse, the lights are on a sensor that are activated by the slightest movement and then remain on for at least 5-10mins.
Some weeks later a friend showed me photos of an albergue where they had to sleep rough and, guess what, it was the same one.

 

[NoQ]

A new albergue has opened up in Hornillos. Only 20 places so wonder if this will actually increase the race to get there from Burgos.

http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergue-el-alfar-de-hornillos

 

[robertt]

I had a Hornillos experience. Did the dash to Hontanas late on a winter's day. Whew.

http://slowcamino.wordpress.com/2011/05 ... of-burgos/

 

[Annie Little]

Thanks for the info

Annie

 

[Say Simba]

I remember that village. My girlfriend and I ended up sleeping in the spill over of the gym, laying on a piece of plastic over a cement floor. Great fun. Rained that night, all night. The next morning was one of the muddiest of the Camino.

If you needed smokes, however, Raoul would be in town around 730pm they said. Dry, but funny town in many ways.

Usually I made ground fast, but, by the end, I just didn't care if I got a spot or not, and would be happy under the stars.

 

[Al the optimist]

One thing to add about Rabe. When I arrived I asked for directions to the albergues at the first bar in the village. I didn't have a drink or anything but after directing me he insisted on giving me a small rosary! needless to say he had my custom later.

 

[SabsP]

One thing to add about Rabe. When I arrived I asked for directions to the albergues at the first bar in the village. I didn't have a drink or anything but after directing me he insisted on giving me a small rosary! needless to say he had my custom later.

He gives it to every punter...;-)

 

[NoQ]

I stayed at the new albergue a few days ago. It is excellent. 9 Euros and only 4 beds in our room. The owner is really friendly and cooks a auperb paella for dinner.

I would say the title of this thread is unfair now and would unhesitatingly recommend the new albergue. On the day I stayed, it was less than half full. The owner is happy to take reservations the day before, but we did not reserve and had no problems. It also has a lovely small garden with shaded and sunny areas.

Give Hornillos a stay and enjoy a lovely relaxing afternoon with great food.

 

[Bajaracer]

Albergue El Alfar de Hornillos was a great place to stay at in Hornillos, nice patio in the back with grass and shaded area to wash your clothes, great kitchen for pilgrims to use, the only drawback was the limited selection at the only tienda when you first come into town, but we were able to make an awesome communal dinner anyways.

 

[HermanTheGerman]

Hi Al, perhaps you could offer me a tip. The next leg of the Camino is due to start again in 6 weeks... Burgos to Astorga. I want to try and stay at the intermediary places not listed as major stopovers in the Brierly bible. Spending the first night at Rabe could be the answer. Just how overrun does this place get at the beginning of October? The problem is that I have limited time and don't get into Santander till just after midday. Then we have to get the bus to Burgos which will be late afternoon. By the time I get going and reach Rabe, it maybe as late as 7 or 8pm. Worth trying or give it a miss?

Cheers and Buen Camino!

 

[annakappa]

Hi Al, perhaps you could offer me a tip. The next leg of the Camino is due to start again in 6 weeks... Burgos to Astorga. I want to try and stay at the intermediary places not listed as major stopovers in the Brierly bible. Spending the first night at Rabe could be the answer. Just how overrun does this place get at the beginning of October? The problem is that I have limited time and don't get into Santander till just after midday. Then we have to get the bus to Burgos which will be late afternoon. By the time I get going and reach Rabe, it maybe as late as 7 or 8pm. Worth trying or give it a miss?

Cheers and Buen Camino!

Herman - the Albergue Libranos Domine is private and they accept reservations. Once in Spain, you could call the Albergue at 695 116901 and see if they still have room and, if so ask if they will hold space for you, considering your late arrival. Anne

 

[clearskiescamino]

Hi Herman, good to hear you are going back soon. A few people I walked with ventured to Tardajos. They enjoyed it there. Don't know much about it myself as I stayed in Burgos.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

how overrun does this place get at the beginning of October?

By that time most albergues will have space, and Rabe should be one of them.

 

[HermanTheGerman]

Thanks to all for the helpful info! Sounds promising. Yes David, can't get enough Camino! Tarjados also looks interesting.

 

[clearskiescamino]

I liked the municipal in Burgos though. My advice is skip Leon or stay in a cheap pension. Didn't like the albergue there.

 

[HermanTheGerman]

I liked the municipal in Burgos though. My advice is skip Leon or stay in a cheap pension. Didn't like the albergue there.

Well Leon is going to be the end of the road for us this year. The next day we have to bus it back to Santander to fly out back to the land of sausage. We'll be picking up the trail again in astorga in April 2014 and sticking it out till the end. Maybe well give a pension in Leon a go.

 

[reuben79]

This problem can occur at any number of stops along the way. My best advice is to trek during a quieter time of year, but since that is not an option for many, just get an early start and be prepared to be flexible about the length of your day.