Leon to Astorga: Dangerous section?

[rowerrover]

Have read a few guides that mention this section as being perilous. Any comments?? Trying to decide whether to leave from Leon or skip it and start from Astorga.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, rowerrover,

I don't think there's any section from Leon to Astorga that is dangerous. But unless you take the "alternative route" after Virgen del Camino (highly recommended), you will find yourself along the side of the national highway N-120 all the way to Villadangos. And that is a LOT of walking alongside a national highway. I would highly recomend that you take the turnoff that goes to Vilar de Mazarife. It's quiet and peaceful. You'll see the markings.

I don't know if it adds kms to the total between Leon and Hospital de Orbigo, but it is a much more pleasant route. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[jirit]

Have read a few guides that mention this section as being perilous. Any comments?? Trying to decide whether to leave from Leon or skip it and start from Astorga.

I agree with Laurie/ I have done the alternative route and would highly recommend it. Takes two days to reach Astorga from Leon and the walk is pleasant.

 

[Pieces]

Walked Leon to Astorga in one day and didn't feel endangered. Lovede every step. Don't remember any road so probably did the alternative then. Only the last hour into Astorga was a bit tedious, but then at that point it was late and i was a bit tired...

 

[mspath]

For further discussion on visiting the extraordinary contemporary church at Virgen del Camino west of Leon and from there following the more rural alternative camino to Hospital de Orbigo see this earlier Forum thread. >> http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/where-to-get-a-credencial-in-leon.18990/ Don't miss the church!

Margaret Meredith

 

[tyrrek]

No, this section isn't dangerous at all, at least if you take the route via Villar de Mazarife. The walk out of Leon is a bit dull, and the signposting where the route splits isn't great, but it isn't dangerous. The only seriously dangerous place is/was on the way into Leon at (I think) Villarente, where you had to cross the river on a narrow and busy road bridge with no retaining wall. I believe there is now a pedestrian bridge so you can avoid the traffic. Buen Camino!

 

[Deleted member 12253]

Have read a few guides that mention this section as being perilous. Any comments?? Trying to decide whether to leave from Leon or skip it and start from Astorga.

No it's not dangerous, keep to recommended route, too much road if you go alternative,

 

[JennyH94]

Hi Rowerrover - if you start from Astorga you will miss the ancient bridge - Puente de Orbigo - at Hospital de Orbigo, out from Leon, which is one of the longest and best-preserved bridges in Spain. Check out all the history on it - it's really interesting reading. It's very beautiful and it would be such a shame if you missed it. Further on, before you get to Astorga, you can stop for a break at David's Cantina of the Gods. David is a cool hippy kind of guy who has a refreshment stand right on the Camino - he's so welcoming and a lot of pilgrims stop there. Buen Camino!

 

[mspath]

East of Astorga the special place known as the Casa de los Dioses is on the alternative path after Villares de Orbigo but before Santibañez de Valdeiglesias just before the Cross of Santo Toribio. It is run by David Vidal who takes GREAT care to help passing pilgrims. You can rest in the huge barn or simply enjoy his wonderful donativo goody shelf; I always stop. Once during a heavy rain although David was absent the thermos of coffee was hot and his cookies most delicious! His multilingual note read 'Welcome!'. After sitting sheltered, having a coffee and eating a cookie or two I left a donation and a brief note of thanks. Despite the cold rain this was a MOST welcome stop and a perfect example of yet another of the varied and generous caring alternatives available along the camino.... To each his own.

To read more in English about this special man and his special place see this Swedish pilgrim's blog. >> http://www.fyrfalk.se/caminoblogg/?page_id=2150

Margaret Meredith

 

[AshaDasi]

I don't remember being in any danger at all. I took the road route, and we always have to take a little care near the roads (we did have to walk a very short distance on the highway tarmac at one point because of bollards, but that was a temporary thing), but its not perilous.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

you can stop for a break at David's Cantina of the Gods

Know that there is no water or electricity at the stand, so keep sanitation in mind when selecting items for consumption. Stick to items that have been boiled, or are prepackaged. It is donativo because the health department won't inspect it. The absence of utilities means no hand washing, no toilet, no showers, and commando latrines.

 

[Deleted member 12253]

Know that there is no water or electricity at the stand, so keep sanitation in mind when selecting items for consumption. Stick to items that have been boiled, or are prepackaged. It is donativo because the health department won't inspect it. The absence of utilities means no hand washing, no toilet, no showers, and commando latrines.

You miss this heavenly spot if you go road route, so stick to recommended route, Buen camino

 

[nreyn12]

Not perilous, just very dull until you reach Virgen del Camino. Everything from there on is worth it. You could take the bus from Leon to Virgen and call that the official start of your pilgrimage. From Virgen to Villar de Mazarife it's right around 14 km, which might make for a good, light first day walking. There are three good albergues in Mazarife, with both dorms and private rooms available.

Or if you want a longer first day, you can walk all the way to Hospital de Orbigo (via Mazarife is the preferred route), around 28 km. There you will find the fabulous oasis of Albergue Verde, and the Albergue San Miguel which has beautiful pilgrim-painted art on the walls.

To go via Mazarife, you have to watch very carefully for the faded yellow-painted letters on the asphalt just after you leave Virgen del Camino.

Enjoy whatever you decide!

 

[Camino Yogini]

Without going into details, I beg to differ with all previous posts. It was beginning in this section that my Camino became VERY hazardous. At least to my heart.

But perhaps this belongs in the romance on the Camino thread...

 

[Deleted member 12253]

Without going into details, I beg to differ with all previous posts. It was beginning in this section that my Camino became VERY hazardous. At least to my heart.

But perhaps this belongs in the romance on the Camino thread...

Lucky you and I only got sun stroke, very mild, heart ?

 

[Fyrfalk]

Take take the, longer, alternative route. It's wonderful. No dangers. I wonder if you are thinking about the old high-way crossings BEFORE León? Until a few years ago pilgrims had to run over a busy 4-lane high way which indeed was hazardous. In those days lots of pilgrims took the bus from Manzilla de las mulas to Leon. But now there are bridges over the road before Leon and the danger is no more.

 

[Fyrfalk]

East of Astorga the special place known as the Casa de los Dioses is on the alternative path after Villares de Orbigo but before Santibañez de Valdeiglesias just before the Cross of Santo Toribio. It is run by David Vidal who takes GREAT care to help passing pilgrims. You can rest in the huge barn or simply enjoy his wonderful donativo goody shelf; I always stop. Once during a heavy rain although David was absent the thermos of coffee was hot and his cookies most delicious! His multilingual note read 'Welcome!'. After sitting sheltered, having a coffee and eating a cookie or two I left a donation and a brief note of thanks. Despite the cold rain this was a MOST welcome stop and a perfect example of yet another of the varied and generous caring alternatives available along the camino.... To each his own.

To read more in English about this special man and his special place see this Swedish pilgrim's blog. >> http://www.fyrfalkcamino.se/?page_id=59

Margaret Meredith

 

[hyalinejim]

Taking the bus into, or out of Leon is madness, in my opinion. Do you go on the Camino to walk, or to sit on a bus? Walking is walking and you are you, whether you are in the suburbs or the countryside.

 

[whariwharangi]

Dangerous? Someone showed me a photo of a venomous snake they had seen coiled up on the trail, but other than that I can't recall anything about the section as being particularly dangerous.

 

[JennyH94]

Hi Margaret and Fyrfalk -
Thank you both so much for the link to David's story. His kindness to me last year really touched my heart - meeting him was a highlight of my Camino. He's an exceptional person and his story is so inspiring. It just goes to show what we all know ... 'Where there's a will, there's THE WAY'.
Thanks again -
Jenny

 

[jmcarp]

Hi Rowerrover - if you start from Astorga you will miss the ancient bridge - Puente de Orbigo - at Hospital de Orbigo, out from Leon, which is one of the longest and best-preserved bridges in Spain. Check out all the history on it - it's really interesting reading. It's very beautiful and it would be such a shame if you missed it. Further on, before you get to Astorga, you can stop for a break at David's Cantina of the Gods. David is a cool hippy kind of guy who has a refreshment stand right on the Camino - he's so welcoming and a lot of pilgrims stop there. Buen Camino!

If you're planning to stop overnight in Hospital de Orbigo, consider walking just a couple of km past the city on the alternate route to the small village of Villares de Orbigo and stay at the quiet little albergue run by Pablo and Belen. Pablo cooks a dinner every night except Monday. The way out of Villares de Orbigo and all the way into Astorga is one of the more pleasant parts of the Camino Frances, IMO.
Jim

 

[supersullivan]

[/QUOTE]If you're planning to stop overnight in Hospital de Orbigo, consider walking just a couple of km past the city on the alternate route to the small village of Villares de Orbigo and stay at the quiet little albergue run by Pablo and Belen. Pablo cooks a dinner every night except Monday. The way out of Villares de Orbigo and all the way into Astorga is one of the more pleasant parts of the Camino Frances, IMO.
Jim jmcarp,

2nd Jim's recommendation, Villares de Orbigo was one of the highlights of my camino along with Ruitelan and Cirraqui.

Seamus

 

[Anniesantiago]

I have walked it many times and find it quite enjoyable as long as, as the others have stated, you are sure to take the turn-off.
You must keep your eyes open and cross the street to your left when you reach the church.
Then you have to REALLY watch for those arrows.
I wouldn't miss the section from Leon to Astorga, although I DO take a city bus from Leon to Virgen del Camino and have breakfast there before setting out.

 

[Kathy F.]

Do you mean dangerous because of traffic? Crime? Trail conditions? I don't recall that section being any more dangerous than the rest of the Camino.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Do you mean dangerous because of traffic? Crime? Trail conditions?

The Original Poster has not been on the Forum since a week after the single-post was made. I doubt you will get clarification!

 

[PANO]

Taking the bus into, or out of Leon is madness, in my opinion. Do you go on the Camino to walk, or to sit on a bus? Walking is walking and you are you, whether you are in the suburbs or the countryside.

As you write...."in my opinion" but don't judge on others having different opinions and reasons; the only challenge of the Camino is within one-self, sporting-rules do not apply.
I was deeply impressed by the courage of those two Japanese pilgrim-ladies I met,–one 84- the other 79 of age–, to do the Camino in a far-away foreign land on their very first trip outside their country; their reason for taking the bus shortly before Leon was to be there on time to attend the Sunday mass. I, for myself and a few month shy of turning 70, found it right to cut short some very ugly industrialised kilometres two or three times, to also occasionally favour a decent restaurant over pilgrim's standard fare or a room and shower of my own. Your problem if you find this "mad", you'll grow up.
Buen Camino.
Pierre aka Don Pedro

 

[scruffy1]

Have read a few guides that mention this section as being perilous. Any comments?? Trying to decide whether to leave from Leon or skip it and start from Astorga.

DAVID! what a sweetheart! Do get his sello in your credencial, mine is a red heart! The only dangers I saw were walking along the miserable sidewalks of Leon on the way out - miserable unless you just really like snarling traffic, furniture stores, gas stations, car dealers, and bars as well as the miserable entrence into Astorga sidewalks bars and an incredible pedestrian crossing over the train tracks. As our American cousins are so fond of quoting "Just Say NO" to highways. The ex-Jewish cemetary at the entrance to Astorga is now a park with a plaque naming Casals as once performing there but not really dangerous.

 

[colinPeter]

... consider walking just a couple of km past the city on the alternate route to the small village of Villares de Orbigo and stay at the quiet little albergue run by Pablo and Belen....

Yes, agree with Jim, one of the little gems along the way.
Regarding which route, having walked both, much prefer the route via Villar de Mazarife.
Buen Camino
Col

 

[santiago_67]

If you're planning to stop overnight in Hospital de Orbigo, consider walking just a couple of km past the city on the alternate route to the small village of Villares de Orbigo and stay at the quiet little albergue run by Pablo and Belen. Pablo cooks a dinner every night except Monday. The way out of Villares de Orbigo and all the way into Astorga is one of the more pleasant parts of the Camino Frances, IMO.
Jim

Jim, thanks for mentioning the albergue in Villares de Orbigo. It was one of the best that I stayed in during my entire Camino. Belen and Pablo were so kind and nice. Pablo fixed an incredible breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, cheese, toast, coffee and juice.