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Would follow any of your advice!If you are on the camino Frances now and looking for a break from the crowds, may I suggest a two day walk from El Acebo to Ponferrada or a three day circle from Ponferrada. It is mountain walking in all its glory and has many Roman, visigothic, Mozarabic, and Romanesque highlights. I will elaborate with lots of details upon my return home but just want to say that the Camino doesn't get more spectacular than this. If you're in the vicinity and interested, let me know. It goes through the Valle del Silencio and gives you many opportunities to shout for joy at the amazing beauty all around you. The trails are extremely well marked despite what many if the "locals" say. View attachment 11340 View attachment 11341 View attachment 11342 And if you are lucky enough to walk with Reb you will savor every moment even more.
One more thing. If, fingers crossed, I was able to record the walk on the gps, Gunnar and Susanna will hopefully get the tracks properly loaded and posted for anyone to use. Laurie.
Ok, if these pictures don't make you want to walk this little circle, you are a bad judge of beauty.
https://picasaweb.google.com/104105...nalbaPonferrada?authkey=Gv1sRgCI3UgLbBgtbIvAE#
I hope very much, time permitting, to follow that trail from El Acebo to Ponferrada. What would be your estimate for how much additional time this will add vs staying on the traditional trail? Thanks
Roger
Hi, Roger, El Acebo to Ponferrada on the Frances is a short 16km. Many people will either start earlier (Foncebadon) or go on further, say to Cacabelos). El Acebo to Ponferrada on this "alternative" path would be two full days, both in the 20s range, but with a lot of elevation. It is a walk that anyone who has been walking for a while can do without feeling exhausted. I think our predominant feeling was exhiliration!
So to answer your question, I guess you would turn what would otherwise be a half or 2/3 day from El Acebo to Ponferrada into a two full day walk into Ponferrada. (you would be doing two of the three days we did, since we started in Ponferrada and took our first day to go back up to El Acebo on another alternative path). I know that for some people, once you are in the "camino mentality" it's hard to consider detours/deviations from the arrows. I saw it in El Acebo when talking to some South African pilgrims who were intrigued with our plans but couldn't imagine leaving the Camino. I respect that, but for anyone who isn't feeling that way, this is a great alternative. Buen camino, Laurie
Hi, Roger, El Acebo to Ponferrada on the Frances is a short 16km. Many people will either start earlier (Foncebadon) or go on further, say to Cacabelos). El Acebo to Ponferrada on this "alternative" path would be two full days, both in the 20s range, but with a lot of elevation. It is a walk that anyone who has been walking for a while can do without feeling exhausted. I think our predominant feeling was exhiliration!
So to answer your question, I guess you would turn what would otherwise be a half or 2/3 day from El Acebo to Ponferrada into a two full day walk into Ponferrada. (you would be doing two of the three days we did, since we started in Ponferrada and took our first day to go back up to El Acebo on another alternative path). I know that for some people, once you are in the "camino mentality" it's hard to consider detours/deviations from the arrows. I saw it in El Acebo when talking to some South African pilgrims who were intrigued with our plans but couldn't imagine leaving the Camino. I respect that, but for anyone who isn't feeling that way, this is a great alternative. Buen camino, Laurie
Hopefully we will have a little guide done up by then. And just this week a pilgrim Albergue opened in Penalba de Santiago -- 8 beds, right next to the church!
Hopefully we will have a little guide done up by then. And just this week a pilgrim Albergue opened in Penalba de Santiago -- 8 beds, right next to the church!
I think La Masera will survive if they just re-cast themselves as a hiker´s pension or some such -- it is superb, a great value for money. I think the pilgrim hostal is just for credentialed pilgs., and pretty minimalist. I hope to get up to Peñalba again a couple of weeks and see what is what, the info I have on the new place is pretty sketchy.
Just for the record: Laurie is the person with the GPS, photos, and connections to people who can do the mapping and distances that make a guide really work. She´s also got a well-earned fan following who would go anywhere she´s been, with well-placed confianza. I am just an old hack who likes history and is here on the ground. Between the two of us, we can do guides like nobody else!
Roger, I grew up in the US Air Force. I learned navigation at my mammy´s knee. Even a Marine couldn´t get lost with these guides. (And if anyone has, their carcass has not yet been recovered!)
Sounds great! I leave in about 6 weeks and I'll look to see if your guide is done by then. This is your chance to get an old ex-Marine walking in circles and chasing his tail in the mountains in Spain.
Thanks again!
Roger
Hopefully we will have a little guide done up by then. And just this week a pilgrim Albergue opened in Penalba de Santiago -- 8 beds, right next to the church!
I just found this thank you !
peregrina2000 and
Rebekah Scott
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/members/peregrina2000.537/
might just include this into my walk. Was a guide written in the end?
Davey
I should really like a copy of your guide, with maps, preferably, as I do not use GPS. I shall be in the area around the end of October on the Frances, and I have plenty of time to detour and am totally addicted to mountains. Do you know if either albergue is likely to be open in Penalba de Santiago in late October, early November? Would they be on the list at SJPDP? Thanks so much for sharing this with the forum.
Sounds great! I leave in about 6 weeks and I'll look to see if your guide is done by then. This is your chance to get an old ex-Marine walking in circles and chasing his tail in the mountains in Spain.
Thanks again!
Roger
Next time to walk Invierno it will surely be this "detour". Not only because of awfully painfull (for my knees) descend to Molinaseca, but also because my family name is Masera and I wanted to stay at La MaseraI've got a copy of it somewhere on the computer in my office and will find it tomorrow, Santiago willing. Buen camino, Laurie
p.s. The albergue we stayed in, La Masera, is open in October and beyond but only upon prior arrangement. I don't know about the other one. They will not be on the list in SJPP because they are not on the main Camino Frances. I hope to be there in July and will definitely post afterwards. Albertagirl, if you are addicted to mountains, this is the walk for you.
We did hear from Roger that when he arrived in El Acebo, he decided to stay on the Francés, so we have not yet had anyone, to my knowledge at least, who has walked using our little document. Would love to hear from someone who tries it out! Laurie
We did hear from Roger that when he arrived in El Acebo, he decided to stay on the Francés, so we have not yet had anyone, to my knowledge at least, who has walked using our little document
Hi, love the thread, thanks for posting. If the weather is good, and the forecast is good, and I can find someone to walk with me, I’d like to try walking from El Acebo to Molinaseca on this route via La Herreria and Espinoso de Compludo in early November. Google Maps shows it to be 21 kms with lots of ups and downs. I realise it will be early winter so will check and double check with the locals. What do you think? Appreciate any advice. Jill
Hi, Jill,Hi, love the thread, thanks for posting. If the weather is good, and the forecast is good, and I can find someone to walk with me, I’d like to try walking from El Acebo to Molinaseca on this route via La Herreria and Espinoso de Compludo in early November. Google Maps shows it to be 21 kms with lots of ups and downs. I realise it will be early winter so will check and double check with the locals. What do you think? Appreciate any advice. Jill
Wow! I leave from the States on Monday to Madrid. Apologies for the question in advance but where is this on the Frances?If you are on the camino Frances now and looking for a break from the crowds, may I suggest a two day walk from El Acebo to Ponferrada or a three day circle from Ponferrada. It is mountain walking in all its glory and has many Roman, visigothic, Mozarabic, and Romanesque highlights. I will elaborate with lots of details upon my return home but just want to say that the Camino doesn't get more spectacular than this. If you're in the vicinity and interested, let me know. It goes through the Valle del Silencio and gives you many opportunities to shout for joy at the amazing beauty all around you. The trails are extremely well marked despite what many if the "locals" say. View attachment 11340 View attachment 11341 View attachment 11342 And if you are lucky enough to walk with Reb you will savor every moment even more.
Thanks so much...Hi Justabob,
The route is located between El Acebo and Ponferrada. Both of these towns are on the Frances. Rebekah and I walked a three day circle from Ponferrada, but you could just as easily walk two days if you don't have time for a circle -- from El Acebo to Penalba de Santiago, and then day 2 Penalba to Ponferrada. But that means you would miss the Puentes de Malpaso trail, a lovely green mountain path that goes from either Ponferrada or Molinaseca up to Riego de Ambros and on to El Acebo.
Hi, Jill,
I am very cartographically challenged, so it's not immediately clear to me how you will go from El Acebo to Molinaseca while going to La Herreria.
This circle route intrigues me ... safe for a lone walker in your opinion??
I don't and won't have a GPS but am doing to copy and print the instructions you gave .... I have been looking for suggestions on side trips, this is perfect and perhaps I will meet someone who is also interested .. or not.Hi, ShellsG,
Yes, I think it is totally safe. I did walk this route with Rebekah, so I wasn't alone, but I have walked many caminos totally alone and this one would have been fine, too. You can see the gps tracks on my wikilocs page (my name is peregrina2000) in case you have a gps.
It is one of the most beautiful three days I have walked on my 15 years of walking Caminos. Buen camino, Laurie
I don't and won't have a GPS but am doing to copy and print the instructions you gave .... I have been looking for suggestions on side trips, this is perfect and perhaps I will meet someone who is also interested .. or not.
Ok, if these pictures don't make you want to walk this little circle, you are a bad judge of beauty.
Wow, wow, wow. Thank you both, Laurie and Reb!!El Acebo - Peñalba de Santiago - As Médulas (and from there carry on on the Camino de Invierno
Well...now both are now on the list...I could not pick one over the other no matter how hard I tried, however.
Just completed the 2 days of this route from Acebo to Ponferrada, and can confirm there are no piles of bleached bones but some of the best walking in my life (not just my Camino). Thanks guys for the excellent guide!
I used the additional description of the route from http://www.pilipalapress.com/cordillera.php and although they describe a more simple (i.e. less exciting) route it was a useful comparison to have.
I also foolishly ignored warnings to call ahead and arrange accommodation in Peñalba. As a result I ended up sleeping on a balcony, which was atmospheric but very cold! It being Monday & Tuesday in October, basically nothing was open anywhere, so be prepared.
Also worth emphasising that the section between Peñalba & Montes is particularly challenging (up and down), but so worth it.
I uploaded photos to facebook, and think this link will work if that will help anyone with the decision to make the trip... https://m.facebook.com/robbie.cowbury/albums/10101730878977062/?ref=bookmarks
A wonderful photo of to stalwarts of this Forum & the Camino.
Good ideaVery tough
Just had another idea....start in Leon, Salvador, Primitivo, back track to Ponferrada, this little circuit, then Invierno!!!
Hermetic, even.It is perfectly doable.
OhOk, if these pictures don't make you want to walk this little circle, you are a bad judge of beauty.
https://picasaweb.google.com/104105...nalbaPonferrada?authkey=Gv1sRgCI3UgLbBgtbIvAE#
Oh my gosh what fabulous photos! I could look at #60, #62 all day ( the ones where you captured the sunlight on the mtns. against the foreground, homes lined cobblestoned hills, just beautiful. thank you Laurie for sharing your photos. Thanks to you/Reb for the excellent detail and guide related documents. What delicious looking detours for a future return to Espana! I realized when reading the threads, you posted them back in 2014 but that is the beauty of the Camino journey, knowledge and photos are timeless. Thank you again for generously sharing both.Ok, if these pictures don't make you want to walk this little circle, you are a bad judge of beauty.
https://picasaweb.google.com/104105...nalbaPonferrada?authkey=Gv1sRgCI3UgLbBgtbIvAE#
Somehow I suspect someone on this Forum has walked this since I did!
My hand's up, having been too darn chicken to try last time. But I know better now. Let's go!NEXT time, I am bound and determined to walk from Peñalba to Médulas.
Thanks for this Laurie. I will consider it when I get closer but don’t want to tempt fate by thinking further than Najera tomorrow.Hi, Roger, El Acebo to Ponferrada on the Frances is a short 16km. Many people will either start earlier (Foncebadon) or go on further, say to Cacabelos). El Acebo to Ponferrada on this "alternative" path would be two full days, both in the 20s range, but with a lot of elevation. It is a walk that anyone who has been walking for a while can do without feeling exhausted. I think our predominant feeling was exhiliration!
So to answer your question, I guess you would turn what would otherwise be a half or 2/3 day from El Acebo to Ponferrada into a two full day walk into Ponferrada. (you would be doing two of the three days we did, since we started in Ponferrada and took our first day to go back up to El Acebo on another alternative path). I know that for some people, once you are in the "camino mentality" it's hard to consider detours/deviations from the arrows. I saw it in El Acebo when talking to some South African pilgrims who were intrigued with our plans but couldn't imagine leaving the Camino. I respect that, but for anyone who isn't feeling that way, this is a great alternative. Buen camino, Laurie
Things are also now a bit more complicated because La Masera (the albergue turistico where Reb and I stayed in Peñalba) appears to be for sale. I can’t tell how old this listing is or whether it is current, but the albergue seems to be closed. There is a casa rural, but it seems to only be available as a whole-house-rental.The more I contemplate this trail, the more I think it's wise for pilgrims to NOT travel the Penalba-Las Medulas route on their own, especially if you don't have good Spanish, you have a dicey knee, or your phone doesn't hold a good charge. You're a long way from anywhere, high up on a mountainside.
Just because I was a loon doesn't mean you gotta be one too.
Totally appropriate for me. I even wouldn't have to change the name of the place because my family name is Mašera (engl.pron. "Mashera") which is close enoughThings are also now a bit more complicated because La Masera (the albergue turistico where Reb and I stayed in Peñalba) appears to be for sale. I can’t tell how old this listing is or whether it is current, but the albergue seems to be closed.
...
I think I might try that. Once I'll finally get myself to walk Estrecho & Augusta & Plata (official, to Astorga) & some Frances and then from much loved El Acebo to Peňalba and onto Invierno again. But I think some will be faster than me and very soonI have seen Laurie's photos and info on this intriguing jewel of a walk before. I had previously seen tiny, far away Penalba off in the distance nestled in a valley on my way to El Acebo, but being a camino newbie at the time I never investigated, although it totally captured my curiosity and has stayed in my memory.
If a few of our more adventurous forum members walk this route in the next couple of years it would be enjoyble to see how it pans out for them. Hopefully a bit of new infrastructure will be in place by then
I figured you might be just the guy to do it, Kinky and you are still quite young. I too, absolutely love El Acebo and that stretch. One of my faves on the Frances.I think I might try that. Once I'll finally get myself to walk Estrecho & Augusta & Plata (official, to Astorga) & some Frances and then from much loved El Acebo to Peňalba and onto Invierno again. But I think some will be faster than me and very soon
Totally appropriate for me. I even wouldn't have to change the name of the place
It's great there's an albergue in Montes de Valdueza - but how does that affect the day to Las Médulas. Without digging up mumy map, I'm not clear of the geography...The more I contemplate this trail, the more I think it's wise for pilgrims to NOT travel the Penalba-Las Medulas route on their own, especially if you don't have good Spanish, you have a dicey knee, or your phone doesn't hold a good charge. You're a long way from anywhere, high up on a mountainside.
Just because I was a loon doesn't mean you gotta be one too.
Hi Laurie- unfortunately I have not learned how to use gps tracks &/or devices. I'm trying to understand but perhaps I'm a bit dense. Anyway, do you have resources that could help me (& others) locate this trail? Thank you so much for your contributions to this forum. You are a true explorer !And just to say, for anyone who is thinking about doing a bit of this route, or all of it, there is now an albergue in Montes de Valdueza, in the Monastery of San Pedro. It’s about 20 km from Ponferrada, and from there to Peñalba is about 6-7 km. It is a really pretty incredible little village. And the Mozarabic church there is beautiful.
The other obvious way people walking the Francés could get a part of this route, but without getting to visit Peñalba, would be to take the Puentes de Malpaso trail from Riego de Ambrós either to Molinaseca or Ponferrada. I know I’ve said this a million times, but it is a way to avoid a lot of the rocky descent while at the same time going through some beautiful forested parts with 2 medieval bridges. It is a popular local trail and easy to find info and tracks.
Ok, just to be clear, VN and I are talking about Peñalba to Médulas, not the Puentes de Malpaso trail between Riego de Ambrós and Molinaseca.So, Laurie, do you think the route has improved at this point since Reb posted this?
It's great there's an albergue in Montes de Valdueza - but how does that affect the day to Las Médulas. Without digging up mumy map, I'm not clear of the geography...
If you google Puentes de Malpaso you’ll find a lot of resources from the tourist offices, hiking groups, newspapers etc. See this one for instance, with pictures. (Google Chrome will translate it for you). In terms of finding the trail and walking it, though, I would hesitate to recommend that you do it without knowing. how to follow a GPS track on your phone. Even though the article linked to above says “no tiene pérdida.” (it’s impossible to get lost). It is not remote by any means but it does take you off camino through forests.Hi Laurie- unfortunately I have not learned how to use gps tracks &/or devices. I'm trying to understand but perhaps I'm a bit dense. Anyway, do you have resources that could help me (& others) locate this trail? Thank you so much for your contributions to this forum. You are a true explorer !
Thanks so much, Reb, That’s the missing piece I was looking for! So, if I cut off the Peñalba to Montes part, the rest will be about 22 km and according to the guy whose tracks I’ve got, the way from Montes is on wide path with no steep ascent. I have wanted to do this for so long, and now your comment makes it seem do-able. Now if my darn hamstring/glute will just cooperate. I’ve been pain-free for almost two years, and walked two caminos since the injury, but just recently it started giving me issues and I am not a happy camper. End of tangent.the 7 km. from Penalba to Montes de Valdueza is the most challenging part of the (very long) day.
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