- Time of past OR future Camino
- Many, various, and continuing.
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In the meantime, to avoid the nasty narrow road up to Somport from Borce, I can strongly recommend a day's detour going on the Chemin de la Mâture, past the lovely lacs d'Ayous and up into Spain vía the Col des Moines, where monks welcomed pilgrims from Arles across the watershed for nearly a millennium. And then down to Somport and Canfranc. Very lovely, no tarmac, no traffic.working to restore washed-out sections of the old Camino up the Aspe Valley to Somport
Those are beautiful photos Alan, but that path above looks very narrow!In the meantime, to avoid the nasty narrow road up to Somport from Borce, I can strongly recommend a day's detour going on the Chemin de la Mâture, past the lovely lacs d'Ayous and up into Spain vía the Col des Moines, where monks welcomed pilgrims from Arles across the watershed for nearly a millennium. And then down to Somport and Canfranc. Very lovely, no tarmac, no traffic.
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You wouldn't want to have a Tom Avery backpack moment, that's for sure!Those are beautiful photos Alan, but that path above looks very narrow!
This week the Fraternidad Internacional del Camino de Santiago (FICS) signed an agreement to staff the new Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos de Canfranc, in Canfranc village along the Camino Aragonese north of Jaca.
The 16-bed albergue is purpose-built within a vintage schoolhouse on the main street of the mountain village. It is three storeys tall, with kitchen, lounge and dining areas, a garden, deck, even an elevator for handicapped pilgrims! The scenic mountain area is popular with hikers, bikers, and skiers, but the once-huge historic pilgrimage trail over the Pyrenees at Somport Pass was pretty much abandoned when politics and geography shifted the pilgrims westward to St. Jean Pied de Port.
Authorities on the French side of the mountain pass are working to restore washed-out sections of the old Camino up the Aspe Valley to Somport, to move pilgrims off the roadsides and back onto the historic mountain pathway. The mayor and council of Canfranc and Canfranc Estacion feel sure the improvements will revitalize this pilgrimage soon. Meantime, volunteer hospitaleros will have their fill of hiking trails and mountain fastness. For the time being, one person can run it alone. This will be the pilgrims' first experience of traditional Camino hospitality on the Spanish trail. (If you're interested in being a hospi at Canfranc, get in touch!)
We still do not have an opening date, the French border is still closed. But that's the state of things these Covid days... Stay tuned!
I found it on my digital map program. The main road on the left leads to Col du Somport or the tunnel to Canfranc. The path cut into the cliff is in the extreme top left, the Gorge d’Enfer, - we won’t argue.In the meantime, to avoid the nasty narrow road up to Somport from Borce, I can strongly recommend a day's detour going on the Chemin de la Mâture, past the lovely lacs d'Ayous and up into Spain vía the Col des Moines, where monks welcomed pilgrims from Arles across the watershed for nearly a millennium. And then down to Somport and Canfranc. Very lovely, no tarmac, no traffic.
Indeed.That name for that gorge appears to beI found it on my digital map program. The main road on the left leads to Col du Somport or the tunnel to Canfranc. The path cut into the cliff is in the extreme top left, the Gorge d’Enfer, - we won’t argue.
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Here's the frame further south.
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Those are beautiful photos Alan, but that path above looks very narrow!
Well, I hope they find some better paths up the Aspe Valley. When I walked this part of the way in poorly weather conditions I found that the trail rather dangerous , the more that I was alone and no other pilgrims were in sight. So I decided trying the narrow traffic road but this was in rainy conditions even suicidal because of the traffic of heavy trucs and the poor visibility. So I choosed the least dangerous option and rejoined the track. I was relieved to arrive in CanfrancThis week the Fraternidad Internacional del Camino de Santiago (FICS) signed an agreement to staff the new Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos de Canfranc, in Canfranc village along the Camino Aragonese north of Jaca.
The 16-bed albergue is purpose-built within a vintage schoolhouse on the main street of the mountain village. It is three storeys tall, with kitchen, lounge and dining areas, a garden, deck, even an elevator for handicapped pilgrims! The scenic mountain area is popular with hikers, bikers, and skiers, but the once-huge historic pilgrimage trail over the Pyrenees at Somport Pass was pretty much abandoned when politics and geography shifted the pilgrims westward to St. Jean Pied de Port.
Authorities on the French side of the mountain pass are working to restore washed-out sections of the old Camino up the Aspe Valley to Somport, to move pilgrims off the roadsides and back onto the historic mountain pathway. The mayor and council of Canfranc and Canfranc Estacion feel sure the improvements will revitalize this pilgrimage soon. Meantime, volunteer hospitaleros will have their fill of hiking trails and mountain fastness. For the time being, one person can run it alone. This will be the pilgrims' first experience of traditional Camino hospitality on the Spanish trail. (If you're interested in being a hospi at Canfranc, get in touch!)
We still do not have an opening date, the French border is still closed. But that's the state of things these Covid days... Stay tuned!
In 2019, we stayed at the Albergue Aragonés. It was very nice but I hear it has closed. If true, the new albergue would be very welcome. If you stay at Canfranc, don't miss the tour round the spectacular railway station.This week the Fraternidad Internacional del Camino de Santiago (FICS) signed an agreement to staff the new Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos de Canfranc, in Canfranc village along the Camino Aragonese north of Jaca.
The 16-bed albergue is purpose-built within a vintage schoolhouse on the main street of the mountain village. It is three storeys tall, with kitchen, lounge and dining areas, a garden, deck, even an elevator for handicapped pilgrims! The scenic mountain area is popular with hikers, bikers, and skiers, but the once-huge historic pilgrimage trail over the Pyrenees at Somport Pass was pretty much abandoned when politics and geography shifted the pilgrims westward to St. Jean Pied de Port.
Authorities on the French side of the mountain pass are working to restore washed-out sections of the old Camino up the Aspe Valley to Somport, to move pilgrims off the roadsides and back onto the historic mountain pathway. The mayor and council of Canfranc and Canfranc Estacion feel sure the improvements will revitalize this pilgrimage soon. Meantime, volunteer hospitaleros will have their fill of hiking trails and mountain fastness. For the time being, one person can run it alone. This will be the pilgrims' first experience of traditional Camino hospitality on the Spanish trail. (If you're interested in being a hospi at Canfranc, get in touch!)
We still do not have an opening date, the French border is still closed. But that's the state of things these Covid days... Stay tuned!
I stayed at Canfran Estacion when I walked the Aragones/Frances in the autumn of 2016. But the tour at the railway station was fully booked when I arrived in town, and there was no possibility to see the station. The next morning, I walked down past Canfranc, and I have never seen a more dead village: no sign of life, animal or human.If you stay at Canfranc, don't miss the tour round the spectacular railway station.
In 2019, we stayed at the Albergue Aragonés. It was very nice but I hear it has closed.
I walked down past Canfranc, and I have never seen a more dead village: no sign of life, animal or human.
Well pointed out. It was Canfranc Estación - quite a lively place (especially on Sunday compared to France). I think the Camino Aragonés simply skirts past Canfranc as I have absolutely no memory of it. The pension Rio Aragonés also presented us with a discount voucher for the menú at a restaurant just down the road, it was a damn good menú too.I think that the albergue Reb is talking about is not in Canfranc Estación, but in Canfranc. The vllage is about 4.5 km further south on the Camino Aragonés. I have also stayed in an albergue in Canfranc Estación, but it was Albergue Pepe Grillo. It is permanently closed. But it looks like the Albergue Río Aragón is still open.
http://www.alberguerioaragon.com/
I am hoping that the albergue opening in Canfranc village will give a bit more life to that place, I confess I don’t remember anything about it!
I'm sure it will be better than the one Hilaire Belloc stayed at in Canfranc in 1909:Hope the new one has heating, it looks lovely.
I have been compiling a collection of camino poems. This is one of them. Here is another (the humour is a tad more mordant, but somehow on the money):I'm sure it will be better than the one Hilaire Belloc stayed at in Canfranc in 1909:
Do you remember an Inn, Miranda?
Do you remember an Inn?
And the tedding and the spreading
Of the straw for a bedding,
And the fleas that tease in the High Pyrenees,
And the wine that tasted of tar?
And the cheers and the jeers of the young muleteers
(Under the vine of the dark verandah)?
...
Never more;
Miranda,
Never more.
Only the high peaks' hoar:
And Aragón a torrent at the door.
No sound
In the walls of the halls where falls
The tread
Of the feet of the dead to the ground
No sound:
But the boom
Of the far Waterfall like Doom.
There is a lot of enthusiasm up that valley these days, it is fun to be part of it.
I walked on Wednesday down from the Somport Pass to Canfranc Estacion, and another 4 km further on to Canfranc Pueblo. The trail is splendid, and studded with traces of forgotten wars and engineering works, roaring rivers and waterfalls and ski slopes.
Canfranc Pueblo hopes the new albergue and the addition of international hospitaleros will liven things up in this town of second homes. FICS will try to keep it staffed and open (yes, there's heat!) from April to November. It's ideal for a single, experienced hospi, but two is nice too, especially once the Covid occupancy restrictions lift. We are hoping to open in early August.
I am very much enjoying the videos and description of the path on the French side of the border. The people driving the progress in Canfranc hope the old Aspe Valley pilgrimage road on the opposite side of the river from the present roadside slog to Somport will soon be recovered -- there's an installation of hanging walkways ongoing -- and the Way from Oloron will be that much more pleasantly walkable. Also, work is afoot to reopen the rail line between Canfranc, to link the towns again with Lourdes and points beyond.
There is a lot of enthusiasm up that valley these days, it is fun to be part of it.
I walked on Wednesday down from the Somport Pass to Canfranc Estacion, and another 4 km further on to Canfranc Pueblo. The trail is splendid, and studded with traces of forgotten wars and engineering works, roaring rivers and waterfalls and ski slopes.
Canfranc Pueblo hopes the new albergue and the addition of international hospitaleros will liven things up in this town of second homes. FICS will try to keep it staffed and open (yes, there's heat!) from April to November. It's ideal for a single, experienced hospi, but two is nice too, especially once the Covid occupancy restrictions lift. We are hoping to open in early August.
I am very much enjoying the videos and description of the path on the French side of the border. The people driving the progress in Canfranc hope the old Aspe Valley pilgrimage road on the opposite side of the river from the present roadside slog to Somport will soon be recovered -- there's an installation of hanging walkways ongoing -- and the Way from Oloron will be that much more pleasantly walkable. Also, work is afoot to reopen the rail line between Canfranc, to link the towns again with Lourdes and points beyond.
Had to look up Tom avery (stupid American) but didn't see anything about a backpack mishap. What's the tale?You wouldn't want to have a Tom Avery backpack moment, that's for sure!
I would like to view this video but it says it is private and one needs permission.Here's another video of the Chemin D'Arles, from Toulouse. I am seething with jealousy that somebody else is on the camino, especially that one, but also glad that someone can and is walking that route. It is also excellent news that they are upgrading the tracks etc on the French side, especially up the hill to the pass - we were forced onto the road as the footpath was so wet in the rain as to be even more hazardous than the road (which, by the by, is not the most dangerous bit of road-walking on the camino, but definitely not pleasant). I think restoring the rail link is a bit optimistic though - the road has cut through a lot of the old embankments and bridges so some serious engineering would be needed. Buen camino
It’s a reference to the Camino movie, “The Way” starring Martin Sheen. If you are unaware of it, then congrats to you as it’s hard to avoid among the American Pilgrim crowd! Worth watching.Had to look up Tom avery (stupid American) but didn't see anything about a backpack mishap. What's the tale?
Oooohhhhh! I have seen The Way but had not memorized the characters' names. I thought this was a reference to the Tom Avery who does all those explorer treks to the poles, climbs mountains and ice fields, etc. Silly me.It’s a reference to the Camino movie, “The Way” starring Martin Sheen. If you are unaware of it, then congrats to you as it’s hard to avoid among the American Pilgrim crowd! Worth watching.
I don't speak French, so I find walking over there a bit intimidating... besides, there is so much of Spain still left to explore. Still, if I get the opportunity to walk with Kanga anywhere, I am THERE! Let's walk from Oloron Ste. Marie to at least Jaca, Kanga!That sounds just magical. We stopped walking at Oloron, but then drove up the Aspe Valley and I kept thinking how wonderful it would be to walk it. I'm glad you are getting a taste for the old French routes. They are wonderful and I'm longing to walk them again.
If you do get to Jaca I really really strongly recommend going to the diocesan art collection at the cathedral, arguably the finest collection of romanesque frescoes in the world, many rescued from decaying small churches up the Aragón valley the camino comes down. Simply glorious, with a very generous pilgrim discount (?50%) and a nice sello - after two nights in shepherds' huts in the high mountains, I treated myself to an hotel so didn't get the albergue seal.Let's walk from Oloron Ste. Marie to at least Jaca
Reb, you are on! As soon as I can escape from here which, according to our government (hopeless), is not going to be until summer next year.Let's walk from Oloron Ste. Marie to at least Jaca, Kanga!
I'll see what I can do.I would like to view this video but it says it is private and one needs permission.
I forgot to make it public. Should be OK now.I would like to view this video but it says it is private and one needs permission.
A lot of people don't speak Spanish - that doesn't stop them walking in Spain. My French is atrocious and my partner's has been likened to 'Une vache Espanyol' - a Spanish cow. But we walked from Toulouse to Somport (and then the Aragonés) and met nothing but kindness and generosity, not to mention a lot of French people who were more than happy to use whatever English they had (in many cases, a lot). Please, try it. You won't regret it.I don't speak French, so I find walking over there a bit intimidating... besides, there is so much of Spain still left to explore. Still, if I get the opportunity to walk with Kanga anywhere, I am THERE! Let's walk from Oloron Ste. Marie to at least Jaca, Kanga!
Thanks, Dick Bird. I have spent a good amount of time in France (I live in Spain), I don't let my language troubles stand in the way of a nice walk.A lot of people don't speak Spanish - that doesn't stop them walking in Spain. My French is atrocious and my partner's has been likened to 'Une vache Espanyol' - a Spanish cow. But we walked from Toulouse to Somport (and then the Aragonés) and met nothing but kindness and generosity, not to mention a lot of French people who were more than happy to use whatever English they had (in many cases, a lot). Please, try it. You won't regret it.
Watch the movie 'The Way' for an explanation...Had to look up Tom avery (stupid American) but didn't see anything about a backpack mishap. What's the tale?
What month did you choose to walk?In 2019, we stayed at the Albergue Aragonés. It was very nice but I hear it has closed. If true, the new albergue would be very welcome. If you stay at Canfranc, don't miss the tour round the spectacular railway station.
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We were there the end of July, but that is coincidental really. We walk the camino whenever we get the chance to travel to Europe (which probably won't be until the middle of next year, given that Australia has closed its borders indefinitely). To give you some idea of what it might be like at other times of the year, Candanchú (a few kms up the valley) is a popular ski resort. By the way, it seems the Albergue Aragonés is alive and kicking and I thoroughly recommend the Camino Aragonés - an often overlooked jewel of a camino.What month did you choose to walk?
Did the Camino Tolosana from Arles France to Jaca, España then on to join the Camino Frances. Beautiful and worthwhile, quiet and contemplative. Marking was fairly good but maps and apps were critical at times. It’s a 9.9/10 Camino.Have never thought of doing the "French" routes but this thread could put the hook in! Didn't realise the Somport Pass was once superior to Saint Jean! Best of luck and Buen Camino.
Samarkand.
More on Canfranc Estación: a Guardian UK article
reports that the station is to be done up and converted to a five star hotel, conference centre, museum, general tourist attraction and, wait for it, drum roll please - 'pilgrim refugio'. We'll wait and see, I think.Europe’s unluckiest train station gets new lease of life as hotel
Once-grand Canfranc was known as the Titanic of the mountains, but fell into disrepair thanks to fire, derailment and warwww.theguardian.com
"The complex will include a 200-seat conference centre, a railway museum, shops, and a pilgrim refuge, as Canfranc is on one of the routes to Santiago de Compostela." I was quoting the article, so presumably the journalist misunderstood the information they were given. Nice to hear the new albergue is an a reality.There won't be a pilgrim refuge in the station. There will be a pilgrim reception center in a rail car nearby, however. The new pilgrim albergue is at Canfranc pueblo, 4 km. down the trail southward. It opens on August 1!
I read elsewhere [FB page of the architects] that work on the new muncipal albergue is just about complete and ready to he handed over to the local municipality ahead of scheduled opening on 1 August ... and work continues apace on the station too ..."The complex will include a 200-seat conference centre, a railway museum, shops, and a pilgrim refuge, as Canfranc is on one of the routes to Santiago de Compostela." I was quoting the article, so presumably the journalist misunderstood the information they were given. Nice to hear the new albergue is an a reality.
I am in charge of staffing and daily running of the albergue, I would love to see the architects' opinon. Can you link me to their page?I read elsewhere [FB page of the architects] that work on the new muncipal albergue is just about complete and ready to he handed over to the local municipality ahead of scheduled opening on 1 August ... and work continues apace on the station too ...
G’Day RebekahI am in charge of staffing and daily running of the albergue, I would love to see the architects' opinon. Can you link me to their page?
The albergue is clearly designed by people who've done nice hotels, but never an albergue. We will have to do some work-arounds!
I often have a hard time with heights, but I enjoyed hiking the narrow Chemin de la Mature, carved out of the cliff, when I was hiking on the GR10 in 2019 after walking the LePuy Route in France. This summer I'm planning to walk the Via Tolosana and the Camino Aragones - so I just might take Alan's suggestion and do the Chemin de la Mature again.Those are beautiful photos Alan, but that path above looks very narrow!
Those are beautiful photos Alan, but that path above looks very narrow!
Its spectacular - but try and pick a day that is not overcast or wet.Have never thought of doing the "French" routes but this thread could put the hook in! Didn't realise the Somport Pass was once superior to Saint Jean! Best of luck and Buen Camino.
Samarkand.
Hi Rebekah, are there any opportunities to be a hospitalera in Canfanc this season? I will be a hopitalera in Estelle Oct 1-15. I was a hospitalera serveral years ago in Nájara. My Spanish is pretty good. I am available September 1-30 and Oct 15-30.This week the Fraternidad Internacional del Camino de Santiago (FICS) signed an agreement to staff the new Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos de Canfranc, in Canfranc village along the Camino Aragonese north of Jaca.
The 16-bed albergue is purpose-built within a vintage schoolhouse on the main street of the mountain village. It is three storeys tall, with kitchen, lounge and dining areas, a garden, deck, even an elevator for handicapped pilgrims! The scenic mountain area is popular with hikers, bikers, and skiers, but the once-huge historic pilgrimage trail over the Pyrenees at Somport Pass was pretty much abandoned when politics and geography shifted the pilgrims westward to St. Jean Pied de Port.
Authorities on the French side of the mountain pass are working to restore washed-out sections of the old Camino up the Aspe Valley to Somport, to move pilgrims off the roadsides and back onto the historic mountain pathway. The mayor and council of Canfranc and Canfranc Estacion feel sure the improvements will revitalize this pilgrimage soon. Meantime, volunteer hospitaleros will have their fill of hiking trails and mountain fastness. For the time being, one person can run it alone. This will be the pilgrims' first experience of traditional Camino hospitality on the Spanish trail. (If you're interested in being a hospi at Canfranc, get in touch!)
We still do not have an opening date, the French border is still closed. But that's the state of things these Covid days... Stay tuned!
Well, shoot Konnie... the only openings I have at Canfranc are 15 - 31 August.Hi Rebekah, are there any opportunities to be a hospitalera in Canfanc this season? I will be a hopitalera in Estelle Oct 1-15. I was a hospitalera serveral years ago in Nájara. My Spanish is pretty good. I am available September 1-30 and Oct 15-30.
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