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I did this leg twice (I actually broke my leg the first time walking down into Molinaseca because of a freak accident). It's not that bad. Anybody with a moderate fitness level will have no issues. Take it at your own pace, rest when you need to. It's absolutely worth it...do not be intimidated or skip over it. It took about 5 hours. And it's not the most difficult leg by a long shot! Buen Camino!Myself and a friend are planning to walk from Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca as one of our legs of the Camino. From what I have read this is the highest point of the Camino and a difficult walk. Could anyone give us any insight into duration of this walk/ fitness level required?
I'd strongly suggest getting to Foncebadon...it is a really cool village, higher in altitude (so you'll see and experience some interesting weather) and is just an all around great place. Okay...I'll say it! Without a doubt it was my favorite small village on the entire Camino. So get to Foncebadon.Myself and a friend are planning to walk from Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca as one of our legs of the Camino. From what I have read this is the highest point of the Camino and a difficult walk. Could anyone give us any insight into duration of this walk/ fitness level required?
Agree on Foncebadon! One of my favourite stops. Going back a few years I think I indulged in mucho Orujo, con ierbes! Who cares about the spelling, the effects were wonderfulI don’t think that you’ll find this the steepest or longest climb on the CF. Although a good uphill climb out of Rabanal, the elevation change up to Foncebadón is only about 300 meters. In fact, the climb from La Herrerías to O Cebreiro is longer and steeper. So, I don’t think you’ll find the climb out of Rabanal more than you can handle after the amount of time you’ll have already spent on the Camino. An option, which is what I did, is to go from Astorga to Foncebadón. Get most of the climbing out of the way the day before. That will also allow you to easily get up to Cruz de Ferro for sunrise if that is important to you. Plus, Foncebadón is a wonderful hamlet in which to spend the night.
Gumba,Can I ask people's thoughts on walking along the road - particularly after Cruz de Ferro? Will be walking this part in January and there will be nothing open between Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca to break up the days. Last time we ended up getting a taxi from El Acebo as we were quite broken by the time we arrived!! There was no way we could walk down on that track!
Gumba,
In late autumn and winter I have always walked down on the road LE-142. Never had a problem except with pelotons of bikers in good weather on weekends. Prior to the Cruz I would sleep at Foncebadon and walk the CF path to the Cruz and then follow the road down to El Acebo . Would stop again at El Acebo the next night and then continue down the road to Molinaseca.
yeah, thanks. That's a hard pass!!!! Definitely will take the road option!!I found the the walk up easy. This is what the path down from Acebo to Molineseca on the way looks like. You pick your way down slowly, slowly. The tar seal road is a good option instead.
@Anamiri, can you pinpoint exactly where this photo was taken? I was on the road, on a bike so I missed this. It’s a fabulous bit of geology, although you would obviously have had other priorities!I found the the walk up easy. This is what the path down from Acebo to Molineseca on the way looks like. You pick your way down slowly, slowly. The tar seal road is a good option instead.
At age 66 my husband and I did this stretch. It is well worth doing on the trail - just be forewarned that there is considerable ascent and descent. With proper planning relative to your fitness level you should allow time to enjoy it. We did not find it to be a problem. The most difficult portion was Riego de Ambrose to Molinaseca - a rocky descent with loose stones; you have to watch your feet. We did not have poles but they would have been helpful in this section (as well as at Cruz de Ferro if climbing up to the cross - coming down on the loose stones was an adventure!) and I would avoid doing it in rain as it could get slippery on the hard slabs of rock. Rabanal, El Acebo and Molinaseca are all lovely towns to stay in. It is a wonderful section of the Camino and I would not have missed the trail for anything. I did not find the climb to O Cebreiro as challenging as the descent to Molinaseca at all. Just take it at a comfortable pace.Myself and a friend are planning to walk from Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca as one of our legs of the Camino. From what I have read this is the highest point of the Camino and a difficult walk. Could anyone give us any insight into duration of this walk/ fitness level required?
I will only add, it depends on the weather. I have done it 3 times and stopped in El Acebo twice. The rocky path down hill is daunting withourt poles and one time I tried it during a heavy rain storm and the path turned into a river of rain water. I was tempted to move over to the road but it is just as treacherous with the odd truck or car buzzing by.
Last November was my third time down the hill to Molinaseca. I slept in Rabinal the night before and I always have a pretty intense experience when I am at Cruz de Ferro. It represents something very important to me. This time I wanted to have a short day so I stayed at Albergue Meson El Acebo. It was a great decision. Very nice albergue with lovely views. Also as others have said this walk pales in comparison to the day going up to O'Cebreiro or that famous day from SJPP. Walking downhill it is best to zig zag going down and when possible walk on the road. It makes things much easier.Another vote for Acebo, if only to enjoy the view for two days instead of one! Better to tackle the rocky trail down to Molinaseca with fresh and rested legs the next day - after it is light.
I was in el Acebo on July 9th (2017) and the sunset from el Acebo looking west was amazing. It got dark late at night, like past 10:00pm, but your post is 1000% accurateAnother vote for Acebo, if only to enjoy the view for two days instead of one! Better to tackle the rocky trail down to Molinaseca with fresh and rested legs the next day - after it is light.
Would agree. It’s the descent that is the challenge. Knees and shins beware ! Slow, steady and preferably with trekking poles. I saw some folks descending by the road which brings a traffic hazard.Hello @oilbhen
My wife and did it last year and it will take you a full day. Going up is hard, but straightforward.
Going down is an absolute pig, I would recommend walking poles to help steady yourself as there is a lot of loose stones and rough terrain.
As for fitness, if you have walked that far your fitness is not in doubt.
The best advice is to not rush the downhill section or it will bite you.
On the plus side the downhill side of the mountain is very much sunnier (and hotter)
Molinisaca us a beautiful place to end the day.
I have stayed in Foncebadon on two Caminos. A wonderful and isolated village.I don’t think that you’ll find this the steepest or longest climb on the CF. Although a good uphill climb out of Rabanal, the elevation change up to Foncebadón is only about 300 meters. In fact, the climb from La Herrerías to O Cebreiro is longer and steeper. So, I don’t think you’ll find the climb out of Rabanal more than you can handle after the amount of time you’ll have already spent on the Camino. An option, which is what I did, is to go from Astorga to Foncebadón. Get most of the climbing out of the way the day before. That will also allow you to easily get up to Cruz de Ferro for sunrise if that is important to you. Plus, Foncebadón is a wonderful hamlet in which to spend the night.
We are slow. We split the route as follows:For some people, this is the most difficult stage of the Camino. As others have said, the climb up to Cruz de Ferro is very doable, and for most this is not a noteworthy challenge. It's the road down that is the issue. If you find going down hill hard on your knees, I suggest walking to El Acebo, and taking a taxi to Molinaseca. The trail is rocky, treacherous, and steep. As others have said, quite hideous in the rain. For most its a question of going slow and being careful. For those with knee issues, its a recipe for three days with an ice bag. You can sample the trail on the way to El Acebo. Once you get there, you've covered about a third of the ugly parts, and there is plenty more where that came from, all the way to the bottom.
I enjoyed vespers at the chapel, a one of a kind experience!My vote goes for Rabanal. Refugio Gaucelmo still is one of the brightest memories from my first Camino.
It was probably a few kms before Molineseca - it could have anywhere on that stretch after Acebo. I had been walking on track like that for ages, and was meeting up with my sister later who was biking. I thought "if I dont take a photo of this she would never believe me".@Anamiri, can you pinpoint exactly where this photo was taken? I was on the road, on a bike so I missed this. It’s a fabulous bit of geology, although you would obviously have had other priorities!
@Anamiri, can you pinpoint exactly where this photo was taken? I was on the road, on a bike so I missed this. It’s a fabulous bit of geology, although you would obviously have had other priorities!
Last year there was a thread for the way in reverse, Molinaseca to Rabanal. I found a trail with map apps but I can't say I would use it.
I'd strongly suggest getting to Foncebadon...it is a really cool village, higher in altitude (so you'll see and experience some interesting weather) and is just an all around great place. Okay...I'll say it! Without a doubt it was my favorite small village on the entire Camino. So get to Foncebadon.
I hiked from Astorga to el Acebo. El Acebo has the best albuergue on the entire Camino...you have to go all the way to the end of town to reach it. Great rooms and facilities along with a pool. Their pilgram meal is also great. But it's a hike of 37km. I was worn out at the end (I'd typically do 40km's a day...although "only" 37km...I was whipped at the end of it)
This is some great Camino terrain you are getting ready to experience...don't think of it as bad...think of it as great and a wonderful challenge. I'm jealous
vending machines? I did not see that. I had a wonderful meal there. I did the Camino in 2017 so things may have changed, but I doubt it. Someone invested some serious money in the location and the facility and so I'm guessing they would keep it up to date and nice.I was amused to read this. I had thought of staying in it next time I pass through, as it looked good on their website.
Then I read appalling reviews of it, saying it was nothing more that a sterile 'money grab' kind of place with vending machines LOL
Just goes to show that not only do we all have vastly different expectations, but we all 'see' things and experience things in very different ways.
Maybe I will try it after all......... though the online reviews of the Donativo have me favouring that currently.
The Albergue Irish Rock i referring to at theendof El Acebo is a stunning location. I didn’t see vending machines either, but I stayed n a private room. The view, alone, at dinner and breakfast is well worth the price. If you go when the pool is open and the weather is good,it is an extra definite plus.vending machines? I did not see that. I had a wonderful meal there. I did the Camino in 2017 so things may have changed, but I doubt it. Someone invested some serious money in the location and the facility and so I'm guessing they would keep it up to date and nice.
My backside would agree with youSteep and slippery downhill on the backside.
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