LIVE from the Camino unfinished business on the Camino de Madrid

[alansykes]

Over a couple of caminos, I've got as far as Puente Duero before turning off on to the Levante or Surest. This time I left from Valladolid, wonderful city, and hope to complete the rest of this camino.

Leaving in the dark, possibly for the last time in a while, the surburbs going out of Valladolid to the west are far longer than those coming in from the south, with seemingly endless car and discount furniture stores, before finally getting off the main road, and finding coffee, at Zaratán.

Soon after that, out into open flat meseta and on to the official Camino de Madrid, and back with the reassuring yellow arrows after a fortnight of busking it. Bliss. Although my apanthropic heart sank when I saw a rucksack-wearing figure studying a noticeboard ahead of me in the distance. Curiousity struck in when he didn't appear to move for a while - must be a really fascinating sign? Then got closer and realised it was a steel statue of a pilgrim.

After a couple of hours of flat skyline and the path ahead leading to the vanishing point, I was beginning to wonder "where on earth is Wamba?" when a sudden depression in the landscape appeared, and with it the visigothic king's town. And its glorious early Romanesque church, with horseshoe arches and famous ossuary. I'm not that into piles of human bones, but I did like the carved capitals. And the primitive 12th Century stone palm tree - although after the one at San Baudelio two weeks ago, it was inevitably an anticlimax. But so glad that I caught it in one of the seven hours per week that it is open.



Peñaflor de Hornija, today's destination, is reached after crossing a mini-Grand Canyon depression - only 50m down and back up, but it must be a struggle after a hot day. The town has a Calle General Franco, and a Travesía José-Antonio: so it goes. The albergue is my first since leaving the mediterranean over four weeks ago. And it's a belter: in the former priest's house, wide beds, with washing machine and fully equipped kitchen, all for 5€. A pilgrim parador.

 

[Former member 104756]

Peñaflor de Hornija, today's destination, is reached after crossing a mini-Grand Canyon depression - only 50m down and back up, but it must be a struggle after a hot day. The town has a Calle General Franco, and a Travesía José-Antonio: so it goes. The albergue is my first since leaving the mediterranean over four weeks ago. And it's a belter: in the former priest's house, wide beds, with washing machine and fully equipped kitchen, all for 5€. A pilgrim parador.

I can attest that it is a struggle at the end of a hot day . And yes it’s a wonderful albergue. But prices have increased. It was 3 euros in 2018

Those steel sculptures were a surprise. I think we saw more of them on the Madrid Way than real life pilgrims.

Enjoy

 

[henrythedog]

Every day’s a school day.

I thought I was just a bit of a miserable sociopath; apparently I’m an apanthropist.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Somehow apanthropist sounds better than misanthrope. I'm feeling better about myself now.

Still disappointed that I arrived in Wamba at TWO minutes past the hour, right as the lady was locking up the church and there was no way she was going to let me peak inside.
Still remember Penaflor as the place where noone could find anyone to help us in to the albergue and we were refused food, and had to walk on to Castromonte....except that after a couple of kilometers, a lady who had heard what a poor reception we had received made her husband drive out and pick us up and deliver us to the albergue there! She was a person I liked;-)

 

[jpflavin1]

Penaflor, as I recall, I found someone to open the Albergue in the bar. They also assisted me in using the washing machine. It was 2016 and I do not recall the cost. There was one bar and a tienda. The bar also served food.

 

[David Tallan]

Still remember Penaflor as the place where noone could find anyone to help us in to the albergue

For us that was Coca. I think there were 5 people who were supposed to have the keys there but none of the ones with the keys were available and those who were available had misplaced their keys

 

[Former member 104756]

Still remember Penaflor as the place where noone could find anyone to help us in to the albergue and we were refused food, and had to walk on to Castromonte....except that after a couple of kilometers, a lady who had heard what a poor reception we had received made her husband drive out and pick us up and deliver us to the albergue there! She was a person I liked;-)

It’s funny how experiences can be so different on any particular day.

We had a hot walk into Penaflor and arrived tired and hungry. From the moment we entered the town, feeling quite despondent, an unusual and surprising sequence of events meant that it turned out to be one of the most enjoyable and memorable afternoons and evenings we’ve experienced on any camino, all down to the local residents

For us that was Coca. I think there were 5 people who were supposed to have the keys there but none of the ones with the keys were available and those who were available had misplaced their keys

In Coca, we arrived at the old school house, rang the number on the door. within 5 minutes, the delightful Charo arrived (hair in rollers) to let us in and stamp our credenciales.

Some days you can be lucky, some days not.

 

[alansykes]

A quiet flat mostly wet day. The clocks changing meant I could leave at 7.30 in (almost) daylight. Two open bars for coffee en route: both most welcome - one very welcoming, the other less so. At Castromonte people were heading for church, and three old ladies chatted to me. They kindly warned me that I was going to get wet. I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I had already worked that out for myself.

Later, an enormous wind farm, must have taken an hour to walk through.

Wet and a bit depressed when I arrived in Medina de Rioseco, I soon cheered up after a warming glass of Ribera and a tasty tapa in the first bar I saw. I like Medina de Rioseco very much, its arcaded streets and Plaza Major, its friendly bars, the museum of San Francisco with its memorials to the hereditary admirals of Castile. All helped by a lengthy and abundant menú de fin de semana. And the museum was open on Sunday afternoon, another bonus.

The next couple of days are forecast to be dry, and then I'll have to think about coping with the crowds.

 

[timr]

Again, I think I am convinced the Madrid is my favourite, reading these comments!
I’ve just set out today on the Camino Ignaciano.

 

[Larry OHeron]

Did the Madrid in June 2022.
Skipped the walk out of Valladolid and caught a cab to Simencas. Glad we did.

At the albergue in Puente Duero, the hospitalero really emphasized to enjoy the small towns along the way from Valladolid.

My blog entry for the day:

Simancas to Peñaflor de Hornija​

 

[Larry OHeron]

Did the Madrid in June 2022.
Skipped the walk out of Valladolid and caught a cab to Simencas. Glad we did.

At the albergue in Puente Duero, the hospitalero really emphasized to enjoy the small towns along the way from Valladolid.

My blog entry for the day:

Simancas to Peñaflor de Hornija​

 

[DTCamino]

Somehow apanthropist sounds better than misanthrope. I'm feeling better about myself now.

Still disappointed that I arrived in Wamba at TWO minutes past the hour, right as the lady was locking up the church and there was no way she was going to let me peak inside.
Still remember Penaflor as the place where noone could find anyone to help us in to the albergue and we were refused food, and had to walk on to Castromonte....except that after a couple of kilometers, a lady who had heard what a poor reception we had received made her husband drive out and pick us up and deliver us to the albergue there! She was a person I liked;-)

It’s funny how experiences can be so different on any particular day.

We had a hot walk into Penaflor and arrived tired and hungry. From the moment we entered the town, feeling quite despondent, an unusual and surprising sequence of events meant that it turned out to be one of the most enjoyable and memorable afternoons and evenings we’ve experienced on any camino, all down to the local residents



In Coca, we arrived at the old school house, rang the number on the door. within 5 minutes, the delightful Charo arrived (hair in rollers) to let us in and stamp our credenciales.

Some days you can be lucky, some days not.

Penaflor was amazing for me as well (just four weeks ago). The food and people were great with the exception of the hospitalera there, who wouldn’t respond to texts or calls until 2pm despite what it says on the door. There are at least 2 bars in town and a small grocery if needed. The albergue was well equipped and roomy, once she lets you in…

 

[Kiwi-family]

For us that was Coca. I think there were 5 people who were supposed to have the keys there but none of the ones with the keys were available and those who were available had misplaced their keys

Ha - it so depends on the day, doesn't it? The dear lady in Coca came walking down the street, having identified me as a pilgrim and escorted me to the albergue! She then packed me off the the castle quick as look at you;-)
A friend had a wonderful reception in Penaflor and no luck in Castromonte.
I like to allow the welcomes to inform my opinion of a place and remember that on a different day the same may have happened in the (admittedly very few) places where I have had a harder time.

 

[David Tallan]

Ha - it so depends on the day, doesn't it? The dear lady in Coca came walking down the street, having identified me as a pilgrim and escorted me to the albergue! She then packed me off the the castle quick as look at you;-)
A friend had a wonderful reception in Penaflor and no luck in Castromonte.
I like to allow the welcomes to inform my opinion of a place and remember that on a different day the same may have happened in the (admittedly very few) places where I have had a harder time.

When we were there there was a very nice lady who  used to be the hospitalera but had retired. She said to come back to her if we needed anything. The responsibility now seemed to be spread around, with each person pointing us elsewhere.

When we tried to follow up with the retired hospitalera her husband was very protective of her retired status so we weren't able to take her up on her offer and enlist her help in finding  someone with keys.

 

[VNwalking]

But so glad that I caught it in one of the seven hours per week that it is open.

Was that planned or just good karma?

The next couple of days are forecast to be dry, and then I'll have to think about coping with the crowds.

I've avoided the crowds on that stretch of the Francés by eating lunch in Sahagun and walking on to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, on the alternate way, rather than taking the main drag. Nice albergue and once I stayed in Casa El Cura - very nice indeed. Then an easy day to Mansilla de Las Mulas.
This time of year you be unlikely to meet mobs or much of anyone along there, at least on the alternate route. Once I took it in Semana Santa and met two people

No idea where you're heading, Alan, but this inspired me to pull out a map that I'd made when considering connecting the Madrid with the Olvidado.
A brief 22km day from Mansilla de Las Mulas to the albergue in Gradefes that includes:
• Las Cuevas Menudas (a medieval hermitage church carved into the cliffside)
• The ruins of the X c. Monasterio de San Pedro de Eslonza (1834 was did it in).
• Monastery of San Miguel de Escalada
From there it's a straight shot to Cistierna.

Somehow apanthropist sounds better than misanthrope. I'm feeling better about myself now.

Yes, thanks Alan, for offering a word for this (a joy to learn a new one). I've always felt that liking solitude is not the same as hating people.

 

[alansykes]

The camino leaves Medina de Rioseco past the wide harbour of the canal de Castilla, most impressive, especially under the still almost full moon - first time I've seen anything up there in a week or more. To the east you can see the battle site where, in 1808, Napoleon's troops under marshal Bessières defeated Blake and Cuesta's armies, nearly double the French size, and secured the route from Burgos to Madrid.

Sunrise over the tree-lined canal was very pretty. Virtually the only shade between the Duero and Sahagún, which must be pleasant in summer - although gronze warns that the price you then pay is mosquitoes.



And then the immensity of the wide empty meseta. Quite breathtaking.



From the distance, Cuenca de Campos looked like a mirage on the horizon, appearing and disappearing as the gently undulating landscape unfolds. I liked Cuenca, every person I saw waved or said hello or buen camino, even the correos person tooted her horn at me from her yellow van. The impressive albergue is shut for winter. As is the one in Villalón de Campos, where I'm staying tonight - in a nice hotel rural: it might have been sensible to check in advance if these albergues were still open. Villalón's church tower had been looking impressive all the way from Cuenca, although not much bigger than its grain silo. The rollo de justicia next to the church is a fine thing - apparently carved by the same people who worked on Burgos cathedral.

Was that planned or just good karma?

Bit of both - saw a week or so ago that I was on track to hit a weekend, so made sure I did.

brief 22km day from Mansilla de Las Mulas to the albergue in Gradefes

That's the plan, although I've never done the Salvador, so not quite sure.

 

[nycwalking]

The camino leaves Medina de Rioseco past the wide harbour of the canal de Castilla, most impressive, especially under the still almost full moon - first time I've seen anything up there in a week or more. To the east you can see the battle site where, in 1808, Napoleon's troops under marshal Bessières defeated Blake and Cuesta's armies, nearly double the French size, and secured the route from Burgos to Madrid.

Sunrise over the tree-lined canal was very pretty. Virtually the only shade between the Duero and Sahagún, which must be pleasant in summer - although gronze warns that the price you then pay is mosquitoes.

View attachment 159446

And then the immensity of the wide empty meseta. Quite breathtaking.

View attachment 159447

From the distance, Cuenca de Campos looked like a mirage on the horizon, appearing and disappearing as the gently undulating landscape unfolds. I liked Cuenca, every person I saw waved or said hello or buen camino, even the correos person tooted her horn at me from her yellow van. The impressive albergue is shut for winter. As is the one in Villalón de Campos, where I'm staying tonight - in a nice hotel rural: it might have been sensible to check in advance if these albergues were still open. Villalón's church tower had been looking impressive all the way from Cuenca, although not much bigger than its grain silo. The rollo de justicia next to the church is a fine thing - apparently carved by the same people who worked on Burgos cathedral.

View attachment 159445


Bit of both - saw a week or so ago that I was on track to hit a weekend, so made sure I did.


That's the plan, although I've never done the Salvador, so not quite sure.

Enjoy.

Pics are beautiful.

Thank you so much for sharing.

 

[David Tallan]

From the distance, Cuenca de Campos looked like a mirage on the horizon, appearing and disappearing as the gently undulating landscape unfolds.

I have a very distinct memory of this experience.

 

[VNwalking]

It sounds marvelous.
I hope you get to see Great Bustards!

That's the plan, although I've never done the Salvador, so not quite susure.

A bit of both? The Olvidado to San Salvador route misses only the rather dreary walk into Leon, not to mention all the company. And with your legs it wouldn't be more than a few days longer, if that. Maybe only one.

 

[dick bird]

If Granja de Campos albergue is open, try the door up the steps at the end of the dorm.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

As is the one in Villalón de Campos, where I'm staying tonight - in a nice hotel rural

I believe I stayed at the same Hotel rural on the edge of town. It had been our only wet day of walking just two-ish weeks ago. We hung everything up to dry in our large room and we washed our shoes while in the shower. There was a small space heater that came in handy to dry shoes and everything else by morning. Sometimes these types of things become stand out memories and I was glad we were not in a small albergue that particular night.

 

[David Tallan]

If Granja de Campos albergue is open, try the door up the steps at the end of the dorm.

I think you are referring to Grajal de Campos, where the door leads to a beautiful Renaissance palace. I got the tour of the palace (and the church and castle) there.

 

[alansykes]

Quite thick mist or low cloud on leaving at 8. The kind man at the hotel made me a really nice breakfast at 7.30, including real orange juice. Embarrassed to find I was the only person staying.

Music was needed, with visibility at about 200m, and Donizetti's misty Scottish opera seemed about right. Not long after the required number of corpses had been achieved, the cloud slowly slowly lifted, to reveal a landscape a little bit more curvaceous than yesterday. Shortly afterwards, and I was at Santervás de Campos, looking at Ponce de León's birthplace. The enthusiastic young hospitalitero emerged and showed me inside, and pressed me to stay. As it was only 11am, it semed a bit early.



At his suggestion, I detoured to Melgar de Arriba, where there is an open bar. There was an albergue, which would be ideal if planning to join the Francés at Bercianos del Real Camino, but it's shut. There was a nice nurse in the bar, just starting her day off. She'd walked to Santiago from here, and done the Lebaniego, and wanted to do the Madrid next. Despite my efforts to stop her, she insisted on paying for my Radler. I bet that doesn't happen much on the Francés.

After Melgar I saw a long straight line of beautiful mixed golden and silver poplars, looking very opulent. I wondered if I was back on the canal, but it was the river Valderaduey, in a hurry to join the Duero.



Otherwise mostly the wide empty meseta - agoraphobics must have a real problem in these parts - although a distant view of the ponderous but somehow elegant flight of a pair of bustards was a treat, and earlier, a solitary hen harrier, my favourite raptor.

Delayed by the chatty nurse and the Santervás hospitalero, I only got to Grajal de Campos at 4pm, one hour after the (literally) palatial albergue had closed for the winter. So it goes, and so I had to go on to Sahagún. Not a bad day to arrive here, with most of the centre closed off to cars so swarms of small ghouls, ghosts and goblins could terrorise the local shopkeepers for "¿Truco o trato?"

A bit of both?

I'm also tempted the "new" Allerano variant of the Salvador. Decisions, decisions.

I got the tour of the palace (and the church and castle) there.

Very disappointed to miss all that, it looked splendid.

 

[VNwalking]

a distant view of the ponderous but somehow elegant flight of a pair of bustards was a treat, and earlier, a solitary hen harrier, my favourite raptor.

Oh, excellent. Wamba and Great Bustards. And a beautiful Hen Harrier.

So it goes, and so I had to go on to Sahagún

Sheesh. Missed the albergue by one hour? Ah, well. It gives you a headstart in the morning.

Decisions, decisions.

Whatever you do it'll be good. If you walk the Allerano, does that mean you miss Santa Cristina de Lena? That'd be a deal breaker for me...

A very buen camino to you, Alan, however you go. Sadly I'll be catching up with your posts later as I'm going offline tonight for a month.

 

[dick bird]

I think you are referring to Grajal de Campos, where the door leads to a beautiful Renaissance palace. I got the tour of the palace (and the church and castle) there.

Correct. The palace was deserted and we had the run of the place. Deliciously spooky at night

 

[David Tallan]

Correct. The palace was deserted and we had the run of the place. Deliciously spooky at night

I thought it would be that way. Unfortunately, I was sicker than a dog that night (glad to be alone in the albergue so I wasn't disturbing others), so I wasn't able to venture forth to appreciate it.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Not a bad day to arrive here, with most of the centre closed off to cars so swarms of small ghouls, ghosts and goblins could terrorise the local shopkeepers for "¿Truco o trato?"

This was a surprise to me on Halloween night in Huesca a couple of years ago. Most of costumes were on the ghoulish side with few of the superhero, western or scifi movie types. Some of the shopkeepers had tables outside for the kids to leave room for shoppers inside.

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm also tempted the "new" Allerano variant of the Salvador. Decisions, decisions.

I’m checking with Ender about what’s going on there. They haven’t decided on the last part into Ujo, because they are looking for ways to get it off the highway. I saw @setmeravelles posts about the difficulties he had and have asked Ender if he knows what was going on.

I don’t know if @setmeravelles followed the most recent of Ender’s tracks, but they are all on a list on Ender’s wikiloc page, which I’m sure you’ve seen. I’ll let you know what I hear.

https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/user.do?id=130959&event=favorites&listId=771450