Walking in Beauty: the Camino Aragones | Camino de Santiago Forum
Camino Forum App now available
Camino Forum Android APP Camino Forum iOS APP
Search 30 000 Camino Questions right here... your question might have been asked before
Camino Guides (for sale) | Camino Guides made by pilgrims
By Signing up to the forum (free) you will be able to:

-- Ask any Camino related question you might have
-- Participate in the camino conversation on this forum
-- Get an weekly e-mail (Saturdays) with the most popular topics from the last 7 days
-- Be able to download pdf's and other Camino Resources
Sign

Weekly forum email Daily forum email Luggage Storage in Santiago de Compostela
Dismiss Notice
Have a question you would like to ask? Here is how you do it!

Walking in Beauty: the Camino Aragones

Discussion in 'Camino Aragonés' started by Albertagirl, Sep 18, 2016.

  1. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    I arrived in Canfranc Estacion in the late morning after a pleasant downhill walk in the late morning, with the beauty of the mountains all around. I started my Camino on the Camino d'Arles, at Olorn Ste Marie. The Vallee d'Aspe from Oloron Sta Marie to the Somport Paass was, as usual, very wet, rain all three days to the Col de Somport. I began my Camino in Oloron Ste Marie to enjoy the approach through the mountains, but. It was largely invisible in the rain and fog. From what I can tell, mountain views do not open up before the Col de Somport. I was very wet, cold, and tired by the time I got there - all uphill. The highlight of the walk up the Vallee d'Aspe was for me the night which I spent at the Monastere de Sarrance, with the welcome from the hospitaleros and the monk who dealt with guests. I was able to share common prayer and felt that that was the start of my Camino. Aside from Sarrance, I think that I might take the bus and begin my Camino at the Somport Pass, as others were doing. I stayed at Albergue Aysa and managed to get largely dried out. Today I enjoyed the walk downhill to Canfranc Estacion through the mountains in fine weather. I am staying at Albergue Rio Aragon, in a single room with bath for €22.50 pilgrim rate, getting some rest and reversing the drying out process by having half a bottle of wine with my dinner - my first on Camino.
    The station in the major attraction in Canfranc Estacion and is being repaired, but is not available to casual visitors. Guided tours are offered for €3 but were booked up in advance for the weekend. A very modern looking Renfe train was parked in the station for much of the day, so I guess there is service. I like the new and rather stark church, where I spent some time, as it was open to visitors, no mass today. I go on to Jaca tomorrow. I don't know if I shall post regularly,as I don't expect to take many days of leisure.
     
  2. peregrina2000

    peregrina2000 Moderator Staff Member Donating Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2006
    Messages:
    9,806
    Likes Received:
    12,219
    Location:
    Champaign, Illinois, USA
    Couldn't agree more with your thread's title, Albertagirl! When LT and I walked the ARagones in 2015, we were told repeatedly that numbers are down, that Camino businesses along the way (mainly the few small albergues in all those nice little hill towns) are feeling the pinch, and that no one has an explanation. Hope you enjoy it, and may you find some good companionship! Buen camino, Laurie
     
    CaminoDebrita likes this.
  3. Viranani

    Viranani Veteran Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2014
    Messages:
    2,748
    Likes Received:
    7,229
    Location:
    Wherever I am...now in Europe
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Francés (2014, 2015)
    St Olav and Francés (2016)
    Baztanés and Francés (May 2017)
    I wish I could give your post 100 likes, @Albertagirl! Thank you for taking the time to post. It sounds glorious, and blessedly quiet. Unlike over on the Frances.
    Heartfelt buen camino!! May you travel safe, happily, and well.
     
    CaminoDebrita and vlebe like this.
  4. Wokabaut_Meri

    Wokabaut_Meri merely labeled

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2015
    Messages:
    948
    Likes Received:
    2,616
    Location:
    South Australia
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances SJPdP - Santiago (April/May 2015)
    Shades of that great poet, Byron:

    She walks in beauty, like the night
    Of cloudless climes and starry skies;
    ...
    And on that cheek, and o'er that brow,
    So soft, so calm, yet eloquent,
    The smiles that win, the tints that glow,
    But tell of days in goodness spent,
    A mind at peace with all below,
    A heart whose love is innocent!


    May you continue to walk on in beauty...

    Buen Camino
     
    SafariGirl and CaminoDebrita like this.
  5. SabineP

    SabineP Veteran Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2010
    Messages:
    2,513
    Likes Received:
    5,821
    Location:
    Belgium
    Camino(s) past & future:
    some and then more.
    Keep us posted!

    I don't get the lesser numbers on the Aragones either? Most of my more experienced Belgian fellow peregrinos started ten years ago on the Aragones and then went further on the Frances. No almost no one does the Aragones anymore.

    On my list though, so looking forward to your report Albertagirl.
     
  6. SYates

    SYates Camino Fossil AD 1999 Donating Member

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2012
    Messages:
    6,525
    Likes Received:
    13,669
    Location:
    Santiago de Compostela
    Camino(s) past & future:
    First: Camino Francés 1999
    ...
    Last: CF winter 2016/17

    Now: http://egeria.house/
    I have walked the Aragones/Arles route in 2000 and in 2006, so sorry, but no up to date info from me ;-) but it is a beautiful route with an excellent pilgrims infrastructure and without the bed race - what else could you wish for? Buen Camino, SY
     
    SafariGirl, CaminoDebrita and SabineP like this.
  7. vlebe

    vlebe Walker Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2013
    Messages:
    242
    Likes Received:
    312
    Location:
    Brazil
    Camino(s) past & future:
    2001; 2004; 2009; 2013, (2016/2017)
    Dear @Albertagirl ; Thank you very much indeed for talking briefly on your recent experiences on the Aragones.

    I will be walking down from Somport (where I'll be starting, weather allowing) around nov 17th. This will be my first time through the Aragones and I'm pretty excited!

    Please keep us updated and in the loop for conditions on the Aragones up to Puente la Reina.

    Once again, thanks a lot and Buen Camino!

    ;):)
     
  8. gerardcarey

    gerardcarey Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2011
    Messages:
    1,201
    Likes Received:
    2,681
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    Yes please Albertagirl.
    Please keep us updated!
    I so look forward to this Camino sometime.
    I think this started my longing.

    Do you remember an Inn,
    Miranda?
    Do you remember an Inn?
    And the tedding and the spreading
    Of the straw for a bedding,
    And the fleas that tease in the High Pyrenees,
    And the wine that tasted of tar?
    And the cheers and the jeers of the young muleteers
    (Under the vine of the dark verandah)?
    Do you remember an Inn, Miranda,
    Do you remember an Inn?
    And the cheers and the jeers of the young muleteers
    Who hadn't got a penny,
    And who weren't paying any,
    And the hammer at the doors and the Din?
    And the Hip! Hop! Hap!
    Of the clap
    Of the hands to the twirl and the swirl
    Of the girl gone chancing,
    Glancing,
    Dancing,
    Backing and advancing,
    Snapping of a clapper to the spin
    Out and in --
    And the Ting, Tong, Tang, of the Guitar.
    Do you remember an Inn,
    Miranda?
    Do you remember an Inn?
    Never more;
    Miranda,
    Never more.
    Only the high peaks hoar:
    And Aragon a torrent at the door.
    No sound
    In the walls of the Halls where falls
    The tread
    Of the feet of the dead to the ground
    No sound:
    But the boom
    Of the far Waterfall like Doom.

    TARANTELLA ~ Hilaire Belloc

    The inn in the High Pyrenees referred to in the poem is the inn at Canfranc, a small mountain village in the valley of the River Aragon, before Jacca on the Camino Aragones.

    Ever so kind regards
    Gerard
     
  9. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    Dear friends,
    Here I am in Jaca, eating my breakfast in the Albergue de peregrinos. The kitchen is handy. Yesterday was a fairly long day for me, about 23 km. From the pass up to noon yesterday, I was picking up litter. But I had to stop for the day, as the litter (including tissues) was getting thicker and my distance still to walk was daunting. I fear that the Aragones has earned its classification as a version of the Frances. There were a fair number of pilgrims at Somport, but we have spread out, as the faster walkers have moved ahead. I arrived in Jaca at about 6 pm and headed for the tourist office to look for an albergue - so many are closed that it is faster to ask at the office than to rely on a list. I asked about a bus to San Juan de la Pena and was told that they had stopped for the season, but the woman telephoned someone, then told me that there is a bus today at 3 pm. I can leave my backpack at the tourism office for the morning, to wander around Jaca then retrieve it, get some lunch, and pick up the bus to San Juan. I won't have very long there, as I must walk the 12 km to Santa Cilia, and I understand the path is difficult. I met a Russian girl at the tourism office whom I had first met in a shared dorm at Somport Col. She suggested that I return to her Albergue, which I did, and we dined together. There is no "menu peregrino" in Jaca, but the Biarritz Restaurant begins dinner service at 8pm and if you turn to the last page of the extensive and very expensive menu, there is a daily menu with many choices and excellent food. The whole menu was in English and most diners at the time spoke English. I was told it is the only place in Jaca that offers an evening meal that early. Well, it is past 8 am and I must finish packing and head off on my next adventure. Please do not advertise the Aragones too widely. It is great as it is.
     
  10. NualaOC

    NualaOC Veteran Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2012
    Messages:
    1,334
    Likes Received:
    2,882
    Location:
    Northern Ireland
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Francés, Inglés, Finisterre/Muxia, Baztanés x2, Primitivo, Norte and hopefully many more.
    Thanks for sharing your journey, @Albertagirl. While on the Baztan earlier this year, a Spanish peregrino convinced me that I should walk the Aragones sometime. It's definitely on the shortlist and your posts have reignited my interest. Buen Camino!
     
    SafariGirl and CaminoDebrita like this.
  11. mspath

    mspath Veteran Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2009
    Messages:
    5,558
    Likes Received:
    13,666
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
    Albertagirl,

    Your daily updates are great!
    Please scan this earlier Forum thread re accommodation and routes at San Juan Pena. You might discover alternate possibilities for staying nearby the monastery. ...However you arrive and wherever you may stay you will never forget this extraordinary sight/site. Enjoy it all!
     
    SafariGirl and falcon269 like this.
  12. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    I am sitting in a restaurant very close to the cathedral in Jaca, enjoying a cafe con leche and asking some reflections from those who read this post. I don't want to start a discussion on "Who is a pilgrim?" but I need some help from those who have walked the Camino for devotional reasons. How do you balance your responses to the spiritual aspects of the churches and other monuments with the impressions they make on intellectual interest in historical monuments and your response to the overwhelming tourist environment. This may not be very clear. I wish I were more pious and could be drawn to devotion by looking at religious art. I have been reading Gitlitz and Davidson and find my intellect aroused rather than my piety. But how can I be drawn into devotion in this setting if I do not understand the iconography? Maybe I could just look at the crucifixes? Any suggestions from your experience are welcome.
     
    vlebe likes this.
  13. SYates

    SYates Camino Fossil AD 1999 Donating Member

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2012
    Messages:
    6,525
    Likes Received:
    13,669
    Location:
    Santiago de Compostela
    Camino(s) past & future:
    First: Camino Francés 1999
    ...
    Last: CF winter 2016/17

    Now: http://egeria.house/
    For me personal there isn't really any difference between the two as for me all beauty (nature, created by humans etc) point me to God who has given us both the intelligence to appreciate beauty on an intellectual level and the capacity to enjoy it without analysing it. Buen Camino, SY
     
  14. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    I am still trying to quiet my busy mind, but I am enjoying my Camino. For now, I think I shall just let the busy thoughts float. My time up at San Juan de la Pena was worthwhile. I could have skipped the time in the new monastery, which is not very interesting to anyone with a good basic knowledge of the Christian monastic life. It is clearly a tourist focused introduction to Christian monasticism. I kept wanting more detail but it wasn't available. On the other hand, the old monastery was fascinating in every way - to imagine what life was like in that strange structure under the mountain slope! And the old monastery was so closely connected to the royalty of the kingdom of Aragon, with the royal tombs there. The cloister contains some wonderful sculptured capitals by the Master of San Juan de la Pena, whose work is seen elsewhere on the Camino. I may relate to his work elsewhere better having seen much of it up close.
    I stayed overnight in the Albergue at Santa Cilla. It has good facilities, including a kitchen, but no food store in town except a bakery. I got a tasty tortilla bocadillo for supper at a bar, but no salad or vegetables. Breakfast was coffee from my supplies and bread from an anonymous donor. I am looking forward to a communal meal at Arres tonight. I am enjoying the fresh sunny fall weather and am now at Puenta la Reina de Jaca, so only another hour and a half or so to complete my day's walk. Buenos Dias a todos.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2016
    SabineP, NualaOC, vlebe and 3 others like this.
  15. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    Arres was wonderful, a true child of San Juan Bautista at Granon. We pilgrims were shown around the village by a devoted hospitalero, who has turned an accident on the Primitivo and inability to walk into an opportunity to serve. The spirit of the place was palpable. Now, after a very hot dry walk to Artieda, I am at an Albergue whose spirit is very different - one of myriad rules enforced aggressively. I am a good girl, so I do not anticipate any problems. I shall get on with settling in. Later: they threw me out of the bar for the afternoon, so I guess I am not as good at following rules as I thought. I shall just have to find another bar.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2016
    dqduncan, C clearly, KinkyOne and 4 others like this.
  16. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    I have arrived at Undues de Lerda after a very long and tiring day - about a 24 km. walk through Ruesta then over the hills west of the Embalse de Yesa. I decided late this morning that I did not feel attracted to the Albergue at Ruesta, where the buildings are in ruins due to their approaching drowning in the waters of the expanded reservoir. All day, I could hear the noises of construction downhill from my route through the hills. My feet are sore after a day of hill walking, but I am refreshed after my shower and so far I have a room alone with a bed, rather than a bunk - sheer luxury. My companions, if any, will have to share the bunk beds. I am still litter picking, but I expect that the pleasant gentlemen who have been staying at the same albergues as I and getting ahead of me each day have been contributing to my efforts. I don't have my guide book with me at the moment, but I think I shall be going to Sanguesa tomorrow. Since Jaca, all the villages are in a state of deterioration, sadly represented by the statement of a man in Mianos that "the bar has closed." The bar in this part of Spain seems to be the last remnant of communal life. I am in one now, where two small children are playing on the stairs, while two men play cards. The destruction caused by the expansion of the reservoir seems to be opposed by the residents. The favourite poster declares "Yesa, No." But Madrid has decided and will apparently go forward. Five kilometres of the traditional Camino Aragones will disappear, along with villages and ancient monuments and various aspects of local agriculture that cannot continue underwater. My information on this topic is minimal - I am only sad. All the best to all those who plan to walk this Camino in the future.
     
    C clearly, KinkyOne and SabineP like this.
  17. peregrina2000

    peregrina2000 Moderator Staff Member Donating Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2006
    Messages:
    9,806
    Likes Received:
    12,219
    Location:
    Champaign, Illinois, USA
    Hi, Albertagirl, your feelings just shoot right through the screen. It is sad, I agree. Maybe what comes will be better, we can always hope. One of the very sad facts I heard when walking the Aragones was that the government, when it condemned all of the agricultural lands around these towns for the new reservoir, did not bother to think that this action had in one blow rendered these towns totally unsustainable. No compensation was given for the now very devalued residences in what used to be such pretty hill towns, whose owners made a living working the fields below them. Now they are left with their homes but no livelihood. How cruel.

    I thought Undues looked like it might survive, there are so many nicely redone homes there. A revival of the Camino Aragones might help quite a bit, but we'll just have to see what the flooding does to it. (your post sounds like you have learned what the new route will be, is that right? If so, could you share it?) I am really enjoying your comments, hang in there. Buen camino, Laurie

    p.s. I thought the Albergue in Ruesta was showing a strong fighting spirit, determined to keep going in the face of a town falling down around it. And the real advantage was that the hospitalero's girlfriend was a GREAT cook and made us some really fine meals.
     
  18. vlebe

    vlebe Walker Member

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2013
    Messages:
    242
    Likes Received:
    312
    Location:
    Brazil
    Camino(s) past & future:
    2001; 2004; 2009; 2013, (2016/2017)
    Hi @Albertagirl and @peregrina2000 !

    I'm closely following this interesting thread as I'll be walking the Aragones next november.

    Do you know where can I get more information about this flood? When and where is it going to take place?

    Should I be concerned and make different plans?

    I got a bit concerned with the " state of deterioration" statement...

    :eek::confused:
     
  19. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    Laurie
    About the new route: When leaving Artieda this morning, I saw a sign pointing to Ruesta with a yellow arrow beside it. I followed the route, which quickly became a new highway high on a hillside, with no traffic, very few cars. It deteriorated into an old highway before Ruesta. I don't know if that is supposed to be the new route, but the lower route, which I joined shortly before Ruesta, will certainly be underwater.
    Mary Louise
     
    peregrina2000 likes this.
  20. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    Vlebe
    This is a years' long project and I would not anticipate any further flooding in the next couple of months. But you cannot expect frequent bars and bathrooms along this route. And I would book your accommodation, just in case of closure for the season.
     
    SYates likes this.
  21. Jeff Mayor

    Jeff Mayor New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2013
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    1
    Camino(s) past & future:
    French route(04,05,060 Portugues (07) VDLP (09,10,11) Aragon (04, 13)
    I hope you find some time to post, did that same route in 04 and again in 2013. I thinking of heading back next year again. Sounds like it cold. I haven't tried it in Sept/Oct. I'd be interested in what the temps are like in the Spainish side. Ruestra is lovely.
     
    gerardcarey likes this.
  22. NorthernLight

    NorthernLight Member

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2012
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    144
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Le Puy to Santiago via the Frances 2012-2013. EPW2015.
    Caminos Aragonese & Frances 2016.
    Saints Peter, Paul, James, Mark, and Thomas; and Jerusalem.
    I am about 5 or 6 days behind you.

    For those following, the alburgue in Canfranc is closed for the season, but open weekends.

    The alburgue in Villanua is closed for holidays, apparently for a couple weeks. The hostal is open, and cheaper if you don't use booking.com.
     
    gerardcarey likes this.
  23. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    @NorthernLight
    To clarify, do you mean the Refugio Sargantana in Canfranc, which the CSJ Guidebook describes as "primarily an Outward Bound centre for young people, closed spring and autumn?" Or would you be referring to one of the albergues at Canfranc Estacion? I stayed at the Albergue Rio Aragon, but the Albergue Pepito Grillo was also open there when I went through. I don't know about the Albergue Juvenile mentioned in my guidebook. I got my reservation in Canfranc Estacion through the staff who work in the Oficina de Turismus in Canfranc Estacion,.who phoned to all albergues on their list. I would recommend talking to them for anyone going through in off season.
     
  24. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    @Jeff Mayor
    If you are asking about the temperature, it has been quite hot everywhere downhill from Canfranc Estacion, close to 30 in Sanguesa. I am hoping for a cooling off. I join the Frances in a couple of days.
     
  25. peregrina2000

    peregrina2000 Moderator Staff Member Donating Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2006
    Messages:
    9,806
    Likes Received:
    12,219
    Location:
    Champaign, Illinois, USA
    I would be very surprised if the albergues in Canfranc Estacion are closed. I know that their "high season" is not camino-related, but rather is the winter ski season when groups come to sleep in their albergues and ski during the day. So it definitely pays to check first. And I'm still waiting to hear from someone who manages to take a tour of the old train station. Both Albertagirl and I were too late to get tickets. That suggests that it must be interesting if they sell out regularly.

    HOpe things cool of for you Albertagirl, Buen camino, Laurie
     
  26. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    I have been out of touch for a couple of days, having no access to wifi in or after Sanguesa. Like most of the albergues on the Aragones, the Albergue at Sanguesa is alerted to the arrival of a pilgrim by a telephone call. I do not carry a telephone on Camino, but I might get one in future. Another option is to knock on the door. After Sanguesa, I went on to Izco for last night. Izco enjoys the luxury of a generous sized swimming pool, looking recently built, and filled with water. That is pretty much the only water in the village. I arrived there two days after the local version of a "Boil water advisory" had been imposed by the local authorities. I did not see this until after washing myself, my hair, and my laundry. We pilgrims were given a bottle of water each and warned about drinking tap water. By morning, there was no water in taps or toilets and I was glad to be moving on.
    A brief comment on Albergue facilities on the Aragones: most albergues where I stayed have ceramic tile floors, cemented in place, and with ceramic baseboards as well. This seems to me to be a good prevention strategy for bed bed - no cracks to hide in.
    Now I am in Monreal, where the Albergue facilities are standard. However, the associated bar offers only basic meals and the super mercado in town has closed - the fate of most facilities in the smaller towns and villages on the Aragones.
    The scenery continues beautiful - rolling hills, treed or with crops. But I am looking forward to the more extensive facilities on the Frances.
     
  27. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    I am at Tiebas, the only woman in an eight person dorm. One of the young men politely asked me in English, when he arrived, if he could sleep with me: indicating the top bunk, where I am ensconced on the bottom. I informed him that he can sleep wherever there is an empty bed. He appears to have changed his mind and chosen a lower. The scenery was fine today. I walked mostly high on a hillside and got to see more of the scenery all around, opening up to a view of Pamplona and the Alto de Perdon, which looks higher than I remember it. However, the route entered deep cuts in the hills, down and up all day in a somewhat tiresome way.
    Tomorrow I shall be going, by way of Eunate, to Puenta la Reina and ending my adventures on the Aragones. I shall try to make some general comments which may be useful to others planning to walk the route. Buen Camino a todos.
     
  28. IngridF

    IngridF Active Member Donating Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    May 13, 2012
    Messages:
    383
    Likes Received:
    712
    Location:
    Markham (northeast of Toronto) Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    CF September/October 2012
    July 2015 C. Portugues - Porto
    Hospitalera in Zamora July 15 - 31 2015
    August 2015 Camino Sanabres - Ourense
    Hospitalera in Miraz August 12 - 27 2015
    September 2015: Camino Inglese, Fisterra and Muxia
    2017: C. Aragones via Lourdes May 26 - June 13
    Options: Invierno or Salvador or meeting up with Camino friends walking CF
    July 1 - 15 2017 Volunteer Pilgrims Office Santiago!
    July 16- 31 Hospitalera in Grado
    August: Camino Primitivo
    Hi Fellow Canuck! , looking forward to your end report. Sounds like you were on a great adventure. Ultreia, Ingrid
     
    Jeff Mayor and vlebe like this.
  29. SYates

    SYates Camino Fossil AD 1999 Donating Member

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2012
    Messages:
    6,525
    Likes Received:
    13,669
    Location:
    Santiago de Compostela
    Camino(s) past & future:
    First: Camino Francés 1999
    ...
    Last: CF winter 2016/17

    Now: http://egeria.house/
    The joys of English as a foreign language ;-) Buen Camino, SY
     
    KinkyOne and vlebe like this.
  30. KinkyOne

    KinkyOne Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Messages:
    3,966
    Likes Received:
    4,146
    Location:
    Ljubljana, Slovenia
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Frances ('09, '11 - entire, '14, '16),
    Finisterre ('11, '16),
    Madrid ('14),
    Invierno ('14),
    Levante ('15+'??),
    Sanabres ('14, '15 - entire),
    Muxia ('15),
    Bayona ('16),
    Salvador ('16),
    Ingles ('16)...
    I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
    AHAHAHAHAHA, true :D
     
    SYates likes this.
  31. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    And the three bottles of wine he drank might have had something to do with it. He snored loudly that night, lying on his back wth his bare legs/feet on the floor.
     
    KinkyOne likes this.
  32. NorthernLight

    NorthernLight Member

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2012
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    144
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Le Puy to Santiago via the Frances 2012-2013. EPW2015.
    Caminos Aragonese & Frances 2016.
    Saints Peter, Paul, James, Mark, and Thomas; and Jerusalem.
    I was referring to Canfranc, and yes I think it was the Sargantana. The whole village looked closed.

    I've had no trouble finding beds since then and have booked nothing ahead. There were 7 of us in Arres. I think the next few days will be interesting, water source-wise.
     
  33. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    I found it very difficult getting water, but I don't generally need much. I carry water purification tablets as backup, but I never used them. Two of the Fuentes, including the one at Ruesta, have hoses attached to the taps to take all the water, so there is none for pilgrims. Carry lots and fill up when you can.
     
    CaminoDebrita likes this.
  34. Albertagirl

    Albertagirl Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2015
    Messages:
    894
    Likes Received:
    2,093
    Location:
    Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Camino Frances (2015); Camino d'Arles from Oloron Ste Marie to Camino Aragones to Camino Frances, (2016)
    Now I am in Puenta la Reina, and in shock - like other forum members' responses to Sarria. I am at the Padres Reparadores, and the place is packed. It is challenging to think about the Aragones in this situation. I have wondered whether there are really as few pilgrims on the Aragones as the statistics in Santiago suggest. There was no lack of French pilgrims in the albergues. Some started in Arles, some closer. But as I recall all of them were returning to France from Puenta la Reina, as was one Russian Camino walker, whose focus was on the mountainous area of the Aragones. If French people who walk the Aragones only never get counted, then the statistics about that route may be very skewed. I did meet one Frenchwoman who was walking the Aragones alone but planned to go on to Santiago in a future year.
    Today's walk was the end of the continually hilly bit. My current feeling is: very pretty, but hard on the knees. Facilities, water, food access were scarce. But if I could do it, anyone who wants to could. Go for it and buen Camino.
     
  35. BlueBowers

    BlueBowers Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2015
    Messages:
    32
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    Costa Rica
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Aragones 2016
    Frances 2016
    Fisstere and Muxia 2016
    I'm in Sanguesa today and have been informed that the albergue in Monreal is closed. All the perigrinos here are scratching out new plans.
     
  36. NorthernLight

    NorthernLight Member

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2012
    Messages:
    94
    Likes Received:
    144
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Le Puy to Santiago via the Frances 2012-2013. EPW2015.
    Caminos Aragonese & Frances 2016.
    Saints Peter, Paul, James, Mark, and Thomas; and Jerusalem.
    On a positive note, the water quality problem in Izco has been fixed.
     
  37. BlueBowers

    BlueBowers Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2015
    Messages:
    32
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    Costa Rica
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Aragones 2016
    Frances 2016
    Fisstere and Muxia 2016
    Yes, had a great stay there and then did a long day into Puente de la Reina.

     
  38. ilay

    ilay New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Camino(s) past & future:
    October 2016
    Would you know If I could startvthis path on upcoming wednesday? Did you meet other people? Do you knoe if many albergues are closed??
     
  39. Anniesantiago

    Anniesantiago Veteran Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2008
    Messages:
    6,529
    Likes Received:
    6,574
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Frances 2006,9,11,12,13,14, 16, Aragones 2011,12,
    VDLP 2011, 13, Lourdes 2012, Portuguese 2008, Madrid 2014, (2016)
    Albergues will be open.
    I've walked as late as starting in Jaca on October 10 with no problem until the wind, which picked up as a sandstorm between Sanguesa and Monreal and forced us to quit.
     
  40. KinkyOne

    KinkyOne Veteran Member

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Messages:
    3,966
    Likes Received:
    4,146
    Location:
    Ljubljana, Slovenia
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Frances ('09, '11 - entire, '14, '16),
    Finisterre ('11, '16),
    Madrid ('14),
    Invierno ('14),
    Levante ('15+'??),
    Sanabres ('14, '15 - entire),
    Muxia ('15),
    Bayona ('16),
    Salvador ('16),
    Ingles ('16)...
    I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
    Usually albergues (some of them, mostly private) closes end of October. You'll be good until then.

    Ultreia!
     
  41. BlueBowers

    BlueBowers Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2015
    Messages:
    32
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    Costa Rica
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Aragones 2016
    Frances 2016
    Fisstere and Muxia 2016
    The only albergue I know for sure to be closed is the one in Monreal. There were always at least 5 people at night in the albiergues
     
  42. ilay

    ilay New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Camino(s) past & future:
    October 2016
    And one can just sleep on the albergue before that, right? This way continuing a bit longer on the next day..? So you would guess that if starting tomorrow id have people to walk with? Good news thank you!
     
  43. BlueBowers

    BlueBowers Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2015
    Messages:
    32
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    Costa Rica
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Aragones 2016
    Frances 2016
    Fisstere and Muxia 2016
    Yes, I went from Sanguesa to Isco. The next logical stop would be Tiebas (22K). I was walking with someone that day and we made it to Puente de la Reina(41k). But that was an extraordinary day for me.
     
    Vinnie likes this.
  44. dqduncan

    dqduncan New Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    May 31, 2015
    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    16
    Location:
    Toronto/Burlington, Ontario, Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    First Camino: Sept 2nd, 2015; Arrived Santiago Sept 27th, 2015.
    Hospitalero Training: Toronto, April 2016 with Canadian Company of Pilgrims

    Next:
    1.Volunteering as a hospitalero first half of June 2017 on Camino Aragonés at Arrés.
    2.Do Camino Norte OR to SJPdP from Le Puy or Vezelay in 2018 or later.
    I have heard several wonderful reports from veterans about Arrés so I am very happy to add this the list. I will be serving as a hospitalero there in the first half of June. I hope to be as helpful to the peregrines as the one you met. If anyone watching this thread has good links on Aragones, please send them. I've just been reviewing the few posts since getting confirmation of my assignment there. Keep thinking I'll trip across more general info, but it's sparse..like, I gather, the numbers of pilgrims on this section.

    Buen Camino a todos! Courage! (pour les pèlerins)
     
  45. peregrina2000

    peregrina2000 Moderator Staff Member Donating Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2006
    Messages:
    9,806
    Likes Received:
    12,219
    Location:
    Champaign, Illinois, USA
    Oh what a wonderful assignment, it's your lucky day. LTfit and I walked that route in 2015 and it was wonderful. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/our-camino-aragonés-june-2015.36782/

    The night in Arres was a true highlight of my camino that summer, and I had already been walking for two or three weeks by the time I got there. Our little group had a wonderful evening. Buen camino, Laurie
     
    dqduncan likes this.
  46. dqduncan

    dqduncan New Member Donating Member

    Joined:
    May 31, 2015
    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    16
    Location:
    Toronto/Burlington, Ontario, Canada
    Camino(s) past & future:
    First Camino: Sept 2nd, 2015; Arrived Santiago Sept 27th, 2015.
    Hospitalero Training: Toronto, April 2016 with Canadian Company of Pilgrims

    Next:
    1.Volunteering as a hospitalero first half of June 2017 on Camino Aragonés at Arrés.
    2.Do Camino Norte OR to SJPdP from Le Puy or Vezelay in 2018 or later.

    Frankly, it was a total surprise...I figured I'd end up on CF. Hadn't a clue about Aragonés. I'd had a lovely experience at Zabaldika ...best welcome I ever received..in my life. Hope to be half a good as Tom and Nancy who were our lovely heospitaleros there...another donativo. Got great training from the Canadian Company of Pilgrims who trained them, though, so that's a good start. Can't wait. The little hillside spot is looking more inviting every day...my sense is that the relative quiet will be a blessing and a key criterion for me of a great pilgrim experience is the communal preparation of a meal so I'm happy to be there. Delighted to hear your Arrés was like my Zabaldika. Warm greetings and Buen Camino. :)) David.
     
  47. BlueBowers

    BlueBowers Member

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2015
    Messages:
    32
    Likes Received:
    19
    Location:
    Costa Rica
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Aragones 2016
    Frances 2016
    Fisstere and Muxia 2016
    Arres, one of, if not the, best vistas between Col Somport and Muxia.
     
    camino07 and vlebe like this.
  48. SafariGirl

    SafariGirl Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2015
    Messages:
    136
    Likes Received:
    101
    Location:
    UK
    Camino(s) past & future:
    Walked Camino Frances Sept-Nov 2015
    Walked Via de la Plata April-June 2016
    Planning Camino Spring 2017 (Portuguese, Norte or Primitivo)
    Beautifully put SYates...mirrors my feelings exactly. Buen Camino
     
    SYates likes this.

Share This Page

This site is run by Ivar at
Casa Ivar
in Santiago de Compostela