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What not to miss on Camino Portuguese

larry1948

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
September 9 - October 15, 2022
SJPP - Santiago
Planning the traditional route from Porto to Santiago during April this year. What sights or experiences should I make sure not to miss?
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Casa Fernanda in Lugar do Conde is a great experience with a really fun communal dinner. Accommodation is rustic but there is a private room option. Book ahead! If you enjoy communal dinners Pilgrims Nest/Ninho in Rubiaes is great too and it will be much appreciated after hiking up a long hill all day. I also would recommend maybe walking the coastal out of Porto, I’m not sure if the town that cuts over to the central so do some research. The walk out of Porto isn’t awful but it feels like forever. You could also take an Uber and start walking from Vilar do Pinheiro. Doing this helps you avoid the urban industrial area. I wish I spent the afternoon in Ponte de Lima relaxing and drinking wine along the river. It looked so relaxing and I loved that town but I was trying to do laundry instead.
 
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Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
The place where you cut inland is Vilar de Conde. La Casa de Fernanda is "the mother of all albergues". To be honest the Portugues is not my favourite camino. To much roadwalking, sometimes cobblestones, many narrow roads with no or verry narrow borders) The crowds after Tui. I would surely recommend to take the "variante espiritual" after Pontevedra. It is beautifull, quieter and includes a boatride. Before Padron you'l join the Camino again
 
-Stay in the citadel in Valenca rather than outside the walls or across the bridge in Tui. it is magical after the tourists leave around 6pm.
-Visit or stay in Combarra if you are taking the spiritual variant. It is charming and unusual with lots of stone horreos right along the water.
-visit the Tui cathedral
-take all the alternate routes, including the first day through Porto if you go the central route. I liked walking through the city and suburbs and saw an interesting monastery/church in Leca de Balio. But spend a couple of days in Porto before or after your camino so you can walk along the River and coast a bit. It’s beautiful although feels more touristy/ beachy than pilgrimy to me. Also- Porto. Absolutely loved it. Going back again in spring 2024, inshallah.
Like @lovelyshell I loved ponte de Lima. I stayed in the central part of the walled town and enjoyed walking around at night.
 
Before you begin, spend time in Lisboa.
The Military Museum is suprisingly interesting.
The Museum of Coaches is fanatastic!
Take a tour bus to Obidos, Nazaré, Fatima - worth every penny.
Take a train to Sintra - there used to be an albergue there but worth 2 days
Consider a flight to the Azores for a few days - my familial homeland and beautiful!
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
The place where you cut inland is Vilar de Conde. La Casa de Fernanda is "the mother of all albergues". To be honest the Portugues is not my favourite camino. To much roadwalking, sometimes cobblestones, many narrow roads with no or verry narrow borders) The crowds after Tui. I would surely recommend to take the "variante espiritual" after Pontevedra. It is beautifull, quieter and includes a boatride. Before Padron you'l join the Camino again
Like Antonius, we had mixed feelings about the walk from Porto, the first time we ever experienced that about any camino. But...as another writer suggested...start on the coastal. Walking out of Porto on the Central is miserable. And be prepared for lots (far too much, in our view) highway walking. It's not conducive to uplifting your spirits. All this said, there are many highlights, as others have suggested. This required zigzagging between coastal and central. For us, highlights included Barcelos, Ponte de Lima and Valenca on the Central, and just about everywhere on the coastal.
 
-Stay in the citadel in Valenca rather than outside the walls or across the bridge in Tui. it is magical after the tourists leave around 6pm.
-Visit or stay in Combarra if you are taking the spiritual variant. It is charming and unusual with lots of stone horreos right along the water.
-visit the Tui cathedral
-take all the alternate routes, including the first day through Porto if you go the central route. I liked walking through the city and suburbs and saw an interesting monastery/church in Leca de Balio. But spend a couple of days in Porto before or after your camino so you can walk along the River and coast a bit. It’s beautiful although feels more touristy/ beachy than pilgrimy to me. Also- Porto. Absolutely loved it. Going back again in spring 2024, inshallah.
Like @lovelyshell I loved ponte de Lima. I stayed in the central part of the walled town and enjoyed walking around at night.
If it is likely to be meaningful, in Padron you can walk up the hill to where St. James is believed to have done his preaching to the Iberians.
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Casa Fernanda in Lugar do Conde is a great experience with a really fun communal dinner. Accommodation is rustic but there is a private room option. Book ahead! If you enjoy communal dinners Pilgrims Nest/Ninho in Rubiaes is great too and it will be much appreciated after hiking up a long hill all day. I also would recommend maybe walking the coastal out of Porto, I’m not sure if the town that cuts over to the centrally do some research. The walk out of Porto isn’t awful but it feels like forever. You could also take an Uber and start walking from Vilar do Pinheiro. Doing this helps you avoid the urban industrial area. I wish I spent the afternoon in Ponte de Lima relaxing and drinking wine along the river. It looked so relaxing and I loved that town but I was trying to do laundry instead.
I also will start outside of Porto. I also hate industrial/urban areas!
 
The sardine cannery in Matosinhos. https://www.conservaspinhais.com/. Conservas Pinhais. They have a fantastic tour and tasting room!! I highly recommend it.
We also enjoyed this tour.
This was a 'day 0' destination for us. We left our bags in our accommodations in Porto, and walked along the Duoro and the ocean up to Matosinhos to the cannery. We enjoyed a tasting (with wine) for a nice lunch and then took the metro back to Porto.
The next day, we checked out of the hotel in Porto and took the Metro back to Matosinhos to begin the Camino.

+1 to the all recommendations here (Fernanda, Ninho, variantes (Franquiera for views) and river approaches into towns, Ponte de Lima, Pontevedra).

If you have time to visit Vila Nova de Gaia (or just Gaia) across the river from Porto, you can visit the port houses for a tasting. The Sandeman hostel is excellent - incredible location, very inexpensive, lovely interior.
 
Yes to Valenca Fortress!
Yes to Tui Cathedral!
O'Porrinño was cute.
If you stay in Redondela, take a walk down to the River.
Visit the old town of Pontevedra.
Stay in the Albergue Portela.

Take your time, taste the food and wine, communicate, turn around from time to time!
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Ok, so I learned about that place from a fellow perigino on the Frances, after telling him I'd be on the Portuguese next. Guitars were pulled out. She was hesitant when we first met, she warned me it was sort of spartan and gave me the option to bail. I'm glad I stayed.
I guitars the night I was there but lots of singing and dancing.
 
I forgot to add my other highlight which is in Padron, on what will be your last day, stop at Cafe Don Pepe before walking. It’s right the church. The guy who runs the place is full of life. He gives people high fives and hugs, he put his hands on my shoulders and looked me in the eye and told me how proud he was of me. I knew him for 30 seconds but it almost made me cry and it was a great way to start the day.
 
I forgot to add my other highlight which is in Padron, on what will be your last day, stop at Cafe Don Pepe before walking. It’s right the church. The guy who runs the place is full of life. He gives people high fives and hugs, he put his hands on my shoulders and looked me in the eye and told me how proud he was of me. I knew him for 30 seconds but it almost made me cry and it was a great way to start the day.
You guys know you can get another certificate in Padron? :). I hoard those things! In Padron you have to go to the church first and get a stamp, then to the library to get your "Padronestella" or whatever its called.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
We walked along the river Douro out of Porto and than along the coast to Vila do Conde. The youth hostel there is excellent (private rooms with good breakfast). Than we crossed to the central Route. We were so glad we did the variante espiritual where we stayed overnight in Comarro and in hospedaje Os Castanos and in Pontevedra. There we went by boat to Padron. Than we were back on the central route.
 
If it is likely to be meaningful, in Padron you can walk up the hill to where St. James is believed to have done his preaching to the Iberians.
I second this - even if you're not particularly religious, the little green area by the statue is quite peaceful and a nice place to sit and reflect (or have a picnic after picking up some snacks in Padron).
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
You guys know you can get another certificate in Padron? :). I hoard those things! In Padron you have to go to the church first and get a stamp, then to the library to get your "Padronestella" or whatever its called.
Our last day? Ha! We are walking the snail’s routes. Still 2 more nights before Santiago for us. 🚶‍♀️🐌🎒
 
Casa Fernanda in Lugar do Conde is a great experience with a really fun communal dinner. Accommodation is rustic but there is a private room option. Book ahead! If you enjoy communal dinners Pilgrims Nest/Ninho in Rubiaes is great too and it will be much appreciated after hiking up a long hill all day. I also would recommend maybe walking the coastal out of Porto, I’m not sure if the town that cuts over to the centrally do some research. The walk out of Porto isn’t awful but it feels like forever. You could also take an Uber and start walking from Vilar do Pinheiro. Doing this helps you avoid the urban industrial area. I wish I spent the afternoon in Ponte de Lima relaxing and drinking wine along the river. It looked so relaxing and I loved that town but I was trying to do laundry instead.
If you are a book lover and have the time, I suggest you get over into the upper city in Porto so you can visit Livrariia Lello. It is a bookstore with a magnificent stairway and books in many languages. I agree about Casa Fernanda by the way!
 
Planning the traditional route from Porto to Santiago during April this year. What sights or experiences should I make sure not to miss?
Experience not to miss? Hmm. Sorry, am lost for words...
Ok, after a climb somewhere, don't ask me, I forget, stand and look over the panorama, from the flat space at the top. Imagine a French pilgrim who made his own trolley because of back problems, and he hauled his trolley up through the steep tree lined hill. A wonderful guy. Just stop and be where you are. I wish you a bom caminho.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
If you are a book lover and have the time, I suggest you get over into the upper city in Porto so you can visit Livrariia Lello. It is a bookstore with a magnificent stairway and books in many languages. I agree about Casa Fernanda by the way!
When I was in Porto, the tourist desire to visit Livraria Lello was so great that it had begun to inconvenience real shoppers. There was a line up to get in and you had to buy a five euro ticket to enter the shop. The ticket got you a five euro discount on a purchase, though, soi there wasn't a cost to people who came to buy a book. I ended up getting Paulo Coelho's The Pilgrimage.
 
When I was in Porto, the tourist desire to visit Livraria Lello was so great that it had begun to inconvenience real shoppers. There was a line up to get in and you had to buy a five euro ticket to enter the shop. The ticket got you a five euro discount on a purchase, though, soi there wasn't a cost to people who came to buy a book. I ended up getting Paulo Coelho's The Pilgrimage.

Glad to hear from another discover of this great place. To me it is a "cathedral" for books. Easy to forget the time.....
 
Before you begin, spend time in Lisboa.
The Military Museum is suprisingly interesting.
The Museum of Coaches is fanatastic!
Take a tour bus to Obidos, Nazaré, Fatima - worth every penny.
Take a train to Sintra - there used to be an albergue there but worth 2 days
Consider a flight to the Azores for a few days - my familial homeland and beautiful!
If you do go to the Azores and book on Azores Airlines you can get a free stopover (or in my terminology a free onward flight) to another of the islands. I got one and only flew from Las Palmas.

If islands are your thing I can recommend Madeira too.

 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
We walked along the river Douro out of Porto and than along the coast to Vila do Conde. The youth hostel there is excellent (private rooms with good breakfast). Than we crossed to the central Route. We were so glad we did the variante espiritual where we stayed overnight in Comarro and in hospedaje Os Castanos and in Pontevedra. There we went by boat to Padron. Than we were back on the central route.
What was the name of the hostel in Vila do Conde?
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
For me the best of Portugal was between Lisbon and Porto.
This. I'm always surprised by the negative comments about this section. My family and I fell in love with Portugal and were so glad we started in Lisbon. Yes, we had some long (and hot August) days, but this was a pilgrimage and one that we came to value so very much.
 
I’m so glad you posted this question! I’m walking from Porto to Santiago in June and have basically nothing planned. You’ve inspired me to get on it and hit these fabulous stops. I’m a little overwhelmed by not having a set route, but was planning the coastal and the spiritual. I know part of the way I’ll have to do the central but I don’t have that figured out. I should really get a map, or guide book. Thanks for the post!
 
If you have time to visit Vila Nova de Gaia (or just Gaia) across the river from Porto, you can visit the port houses for a tasting. The Sandeman hostel is excellent - incredible location, very inexpensive, lovely interior.
As I came back to Porto after finished in SdC and bussed to Muxia and Finisterre I booked a morning walking tour (much fun) through the old town of Porto and on the afternoon strolled to Vila Nova de Gaia and the Port Houses and visited one of the cellars. Quite impressing and very informative.
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
After finishing the camino portugues we walked further to Finisterre and then to Muxia. From there e
we took the bus to Santiago. This also is a great hike.
 
When I was in Porto, the tourist desire to visit Livraria Lello was so great that it had begun to inconvenience real shoppers. There was a line up to get in and you had to buy a five euro ticket to enter the shop. The ticket got you a five euro discount on a purchase, though, soi there wasn't a cost to people who came to buy a book. I ended up getting Paulo Coelho's The Pilgrimage.
You actually had to book a time slot in advance when we were there in September. You couldn't even see in the windows. I feel sorry for the owners and employees. I guess if they all buy a book, they're making good money but it wouldn't be my fantasy bookstore job :)
 
Our last day? Ha! We are walking the snail’s routes. Still 2 more nights before Santiago for us. 🚶‍♀️🐌🎒

We stayed in Milladoiro the night before walking into Santiago. Just as you leave there, you walk through a small park and can see the spires of the Cathedral. You still have a ways to go, but it definitely brings a glow to the heart.

I also had an incredible meal the night before Santiago, not in Milladoiro, but in Brion, a short distance away by car (they will pick you up and drop you off), at a place called Hotel Gastronomico Casa Rosalia. It is also a hotel, but we did not stay there. And for anyone walking the Camino de Muros e Noia, it is right on the route.

https://www.hotelcasarosalia.com/
 
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