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which part of the Meseta is most scenic?

Dutchwalk53

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF 2015 with son #1, CF 2016 alone, CF 2017 with son #2 and husband , CF Sept 2018 with daughter
So I only have 10 days coming May to give my daughter a "taste of the Camino."
I have walked SJPP to Burgos 3 times now and LOVE that stretch (and once Leon to Santiago) so am thinking to walk 4 days on the Meseta and 5 days the Mountains after Astorga. Yes a bit chopped up but I'm not a real fan of Sarria to Santiago and don't want to do just the Meseta there I want to show my daughter a bit more variety. I do want to walk the Frances with my daughter there I simply think it's the most fun one for her it being her first Camino.

I obviously know people have different thoughts but am still curious to what most of you would suggest is the most scenic part of the Meseta.
Thanks
 
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Bradypus

Moderator
Staff member
Year of past OR future Camino
Too many and too often!
I find the meseta fascinating though most of it is not really "scenic" in my opinion. If I was pressed to choose one section it would be from Hornillos to Fromista: I love the way Hontanas appears almost miraculously out of the ground, the ruins of San Anton spanning the road, and the distant views of miles of rolling plains when going up and down the hill near Castrojeriz.
 
Last edited:
Year of past OR future Camino
2019
Ah, the meseta - the best part of the Frances (well, I think so anyway)!
In your shoes, I'd be planning to walk Burgos to Sahagun (5-6 days depending on your speed), then take the train ahead to Astorga to walk from there to however far you have time to go.
That first stretch of the Meseta out of Burgos, roughly from Rabe onwards, is a bit different from the bit that starts you get to to about Itero de la Vega. There are small climbs and descents, sweeping views, villages popping up out of nowhere, and the ruins of San Anton.
Further along it's more rolling, and there are long stretches of straight roman roads (the original roman paving has long since been covered over, so there's no sense of the actual road under there except for the staightness!)

In both cases the sky is big, the vistas are vast, and that can't help but change the perspective of what size this small 'I' actually is! It's magic.

There are lots of train links from Sahagin to Leon, so you could conceivably have a night in the 'big city' between the two halves of the walk - or bypassing it completely and going direct to Astorga is easy too, if more limited in terms of frequency.

4 days out of Astorga could get you as far as O'Cebreiro, 5 could get you to Triacastella.
(I'd be reversing the balance towards the Meseta, but that's just personal preference...)
 
Year of past OR future Camino
Us:Camino Frances, 2015 Me:Catalan/Aragonese, 2019
I suggest Burgos to Fromista. Brierley has it as a 3 day walk. [Edit: There is good transportation on each end. There is bus and train in Fromista but not as good as I thought. See below.] I think a lot of the best photos of the meseta come from this section. You also get a variety in the size of towns. You could extend this walk a day to get to Carrion, a good town to visit, but I wasn't too thrilled with walking the Fromista to Carrion section.
 
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Felipe

Veteran Member
Valuable advices in previous posts.
I'd add a quite prosaic but practical perspective. Since you intend to travel to Astorga, you will need to finish your Meseta stages in a town with easy transportation options. The Meseta is a quite isolated region -that is its charm, but it could also pose some logistical problems.
The best solution may be to finish your stages in Sahagun (train station) and plan backwards, considering your preferred daily distances. Not easy in four days, anyway...There are bus options from Burgos to Tardajos (see, for example, Autobuses Amaya) but after that, the Camino leaves the main roads and usual bus lines.
Five days could solve the problem, because it will take you comfortably from Tardajos to Sahagún.
Or consider a taxi...I would not (to me, it breaks the magic...), but it is up to you.
 
Last edited:
Year of past OR future Camino
Us:Camino Frances, 2015 Me:Catalan/Aragonese, 2019
I suggest Burgos to Fromista. ... There is good transportation on each end.
Not as good as I thought. Neither bus nor train from Fromista goes to Leon. For train you have to connect through Palencia. For bus you go back to Burgos. There is neither bus nor train to Carrion. Carrion has bus service onwards but no train. Use http://rome2rio.com to check out options.
 

Pilgy

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
C. Francés April 06, C. Fisterre May 06, C. Frances Oct 17, C. Portuguese Oct 18, C. Inglese Nov 18
Not as good as I thought. Neither bus nor train from Fromista goes to Leon. For train you have to connect through Palencia. For bus you go back to Burgos. There is neither bus nor train to Carrion. Carrion has bus service onwards but no train. Use http://rome2rio.com to check out options.
But the connections between Fromista, Palencia and Leon are frequent and easy. Palencia is a beautiful city and the cathedral quite lovely. A nice place to spend some rest time. Just not directly on the Frances so few talk about it. From Leon onwards there are endless bus connections.
 
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino frances to Fisterra/Muxia 2013, twice in 2014, 2015, twice in 2016, 2017, a week on the VdlP
I love the Meseta and my favourite stretch has always been the Burgos to Terradillos de los Templarios stages. It depends on how many kilometres a day you wish to walk but you could consider the following.

Burgos to Hornillos del Camino is about 20/21 kms and so about 4 hours walking. Hornillos is a cute town, imho, with several places to stay and if you are a fan of The Way movie you have the option of a short detour to El Molino, where scenes in the movie were filmed and also has a family connection to the Sheen family. Very beautiful and the food is outstanding. I am vegetarian and with no notice, Milagros was able to produce a mini feast which was a real treat.

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel...rgos_Province_of_Burgos_Castile_and_Leon.html

The next day you could walk to Castrojeriz via Hontanas and the ruins of San Anton and which is about the same distance as the previous day.

Day 3 might be From Castrojeriz to Fromista which is about 23/24 kms so about 5 hours walking but as possible variants, Boadillo del Camino, which is before Fromista, has a great albergue as does Poblacion de Campos shortly after Fromista.

The next morning you could walk to Carrion de los Condes which is about 18/19 kms, from Fromista, in time to catch the bus to Leon which is usually at 11 50 am and have a night in the city. I love Leon and think it is well worth a stop. The bus kind of follows the Camino as it calls at Terradillos de los Templarios, a common end of a stage from Carrion de los Condes, and Mansilla de las Mulas which is also a common stop. You would reach Leon about 1.40 pm. There is only 1 bus a day and booking is advised (ALSA)

The next morning there are frequent buses, again ALSA, to Astorga where you could start walking to the mountains or catch another bus to Rabanal del Camino or Foncebadon and start walking. The company for this is http://www.autocarespedrin.com

But that would be my Camino, lol, and you didn't ask for stages but stretches, so follow your heart and energy levels and enjoy the Meseta whichever stretch you choose. Buen Camino. Sorry, I think i have gone on a bit too much lol.
 

Sailor

Donante Vitalicio
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino Infinito
In this case I would:

(1) Walk from Burgos to Carrion de los Condes.
(2) Catch the bus from Carrion de los Condes to Leon.
(3) Catch the bus from Leon to Astorga.

Whatever you decide, you are going to have an awesome time, and la luz de Dios va a alumbrar su camino.
 
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MichelleElynHogan

Veteran Member
Ok, I must apologize in advance to those who feel the Meseta is not scenic. A fellow Peregrino, Efrén Gonzales completed his first Camino Frances May-June 2017. On Youtube, he has created a 37 Day Vlog of his trip, including excellent drone video.

Now, in the last few weeks, he has begun to release all of his drone video footage as packaged experiences, by province. Here is the Meseta;


Scenic? Yes or no?
 

HedaP

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances starting SJPdP Sept/Oct 2015, April/May 2017
I love the Meseta and my favourite stretch has always been the Burgos to Terradillos de los Templarios stages. It depends on how many kilometres a day you wish to walk but you could consider the following.

Burgos to Hornillos del Camino is about 20/21 kms and so about 4 hours walking. Hornillos is a cute town, imho, with several places to stay and if you are a fan of The Way movie you have the option of a short detour to El Molino, where scenes in the movie were filmed and also has a family connection to the Sheen family. Very beautiful and the food is outstanding. I am vegetarian and with no notice, Milagros was able to produce a mini feast which was a real treat.

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel...rgos_Province_of_Burgos_Castile_and_Leon.html

The next day you could walk to Castrojeriz via Hontanas and the ruins of San Anton and which is about the same distance as the previous day.

Day 3 might be From Castrojeriz to Fromista which is about 23/24 kms so about 5 hours walking but as possible variants, Boadillo del Camino, which is before Fromista, has a great albergue as does Poblacion de Campos shortly after Fromista.

The next morning you could walk to Carrion de los Condes which is about 18/19 kms, from Fromista, in time to catch the bus to Leon which is usually at 11 50 am and have a night in the city. I love Leon and think it is well worth a stop. The bus kind of follows the Camino as it calls at Terradillos de los Templarios, a common end of a stage from Carrion de los Condes, and Mansilla de las Mulas which is also a common stop. You would reach Leon about 1.40 pm. There is only 1 bus a day and booking is advised (ALSA)

The next morning there are frequent buses, again ALSA, to Astorga where you could start walking to the mountains or catch another bus to Rabanal del Camino or Foncebadon and start walking. The company for this is http://www.autocarespedrin.com

But that would be my Camino, lol, and you didn't ask for stages but stretches, so follow your heart and energy levels and enjoy the Meseta whichever stretch you choose. Buen Camino. Sorry, I think i have gone on a bit too much lol.
Perfecto. Would you be available to help me plan my next camino? :D
 
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino frances to Fisterra/Muxia 2013, twice in 2014, 2015, twice in 2016, 2017, a week on the VdlP
Perfecto. Would you be available to help me plan my next camino? :D

Haha...I get so carried away and always overshare . When i was about to post i actually hesitated, worried i was being too over the top but i figure people can take it or leave it. But I love the Camino and get over excited lol. I seem to constantly plan my next... All the best :)
 
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino frances to Fisterra/Muxia 2013, twice in 2014, 2015, twice in 2016, 2017, a week on the VdlP
Ok, I must apologize in advance to those who feel the Meseta is not scenic. A fellow Peregrino, Efrén Gonzales completed his first Camino Frances May-June 2017. On Youtube, he has created a 37 Day Vlog of his trip, including excellent drone video.

Now, in the last few weeks, he has begun to release all of his drone video footage as packaged experiences, by province. Here is the Meseta;

I loved this pilgrim's posts on youtube. It is all filmed so nicely. Really well done.
 
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good_old_shoes

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Francés ('15, '19)
Via Coloniensis ('16)
Trier-Nancy + Le Puy-Fisterra ('17)
Aragonés ('18)
If you always pick out the "most scenic part" as in "what is considered to be beautiful from a common point of view", you'll never know what real beauty is.

Just walk, and let your daughter walk (depending on her age maybe even alone, during the day, then meet in the evenings), and give her the opportunity to appreciate the beauty she will find, as well as the less beautiful parts... and then learn to find the beauty within those.

You say you want to show your daughter the Camino, but then you're only talking about what you liked and want to do – you see the problem here?

Don't drag your daughter a few days here and a few days there because you want her to see the places you would like most or want to see this time. Let her experience it herself. She's not you, and she might like and need something else than you. Maybe she prefers to go with the flow, maybe she wants to hop from place to place... it's all fine, but let her decide, when she's there. You already walked several times, now it's her time.

Wish you two a wonderful Camino!
 
Last edited:
Year of past OR future Camino
cycled from Pamplona Sep 2015;Frances, walked from St Jean May/June 2017. Plans to walk Porto 2020
So I only have 10 days coming May to give my daughter a "taste of the Camino."
I have walked SJPP to Burgos 3 times now and LOVE that stretch (and once Leon to Santiago) so am thinking to walk 4 days on the Meseta and 5 days the Mountains after Astorga. Yes a bit chopped up but I'm not a real fan of Sarria to Santiago and don't want to do just the Meseta there I want to show my daughter a bit more variety. I do want to walk the Frances with my daughter there I simply think it's the most fun one for her it being her first Camino.

I obviously know people have different thoughts but am still curious to what most of you would suggest is the most scenic part of the Meseta.
Thanks

Hola @Dutchwalk53 . For me the whole Meseta - from Burgos to Leon is scenic, but maybe from central section from (say) Hontanas to Fromista provides the variety of conditions and scenic views. As for your daughter's Camino/Meseta experience - well (for me) it depends on how old your daughter is. If she is (say) over 17 then I say - let her walk the above section on her own. She will meet a range of people - all ages and life experiences. Cheers for now.Buen Camino!!
 

long trails

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances 2012
The part around Samson is my favourite but I confess to loving all the meseta.

The saddest aspect for me was that it seemed over too soon. Guess I need to slow down next time and take it in.
 
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NorthernLight

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Le Puy to Santiago via the Frances 2012-2013. EPW2015
Aragonese & Frances 2016
Burgos to Muxia 2017
Your stages will also depend on how far your daughter can comfortably walk each day. I plod along at an average of 3.5 km per hour, unlike Mr Speedy above who does 5. She will need you to let her go at her speed, whatever that may be. So you may need shorter or longer stages depending in her comfort level.

I wouldn't break it up with a bus or train ride. Just pick a starting point and go. That's more caminoesque.

Good luck
 

katie@camino

Active Member
Year of past OR future Camino
CF, SJPDP-Finisterre 2016;CP (Central) Porto-SdC 2017;CP (Coastal) Porto-SdC 2018;CF Leon-SdC 2019
Ah, the meseta - the best part of the Frances (well, I think so anyway)!
In your shoes, I'd be planning to walk Burgos to Sahagun (5-6 days depending on your speed), then take the train ahead to Astorga to walk from there to however far you have time to go.
That first stretch of the Meseta out of Burgos, roughly from Rabe onwards, is a bit different from the bit that starts you get to to about Itero de la Vega. There are small climbs and descents, sweeping views, villages popping up out of nowhere, and the ruins of San Anton.
Further along it's more rolling, and there are long stretches of straight roman roads (the original roman paving has long since been covered over, so there's no sense of the actual road under there except for the staightness!)

In both cases the sky is big, the vistas are vast, and that can't help but change the perspective of what size this small 'I' actually is! It's magic.

There are lots of train links from Sahagin to Leon, so you could conceivably have a night in the 'big city' between the two halves of the walk - or bypassing it completely and going direct to Astorga is easy too, if more limited in terms of frequency.

4 days out of Astorga could get you as far as O'Cebreiro, 5 could get you to Triacastella.
(I'd be reversing the balance towards the Meseta, but that's just personal preference...)
Agree with all of this.
 

Oravasaari

Helsinki, Finland
Year of past OR future Camino
2015 SJpdP to Fistera, 2016 Leon to Fistera, 2017 CF-Salvadore-Primitivo, 2018 CF run/walk
I love the Meseta and my favourite stretch has always been the Burgos to Terradillos de los Templarios stages. It depends on how many kilometres a day you wish to walk but you could consider the following.

Burgos to Hornillos del Camino is about 20/21 kms and so about 4 hours walking. Hornillos is a cute town, imho, with several places to stay and if you are a fan of The Way movie you have the option of a short detour to El Molino, where scenes in the movie were filmed and also has a family connection to the Sheen family. Very beautiful and the food is outstanding. I am vegetarian and with no notice, Milagros was able to produce a mini feast which was a real treat.

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel...rgos_Province_of_Burgos_Castile_and_Leon.html

The next day you could walk to Castrojeriz via Hontanas and the ruins of San Anton and which is about the same distance as the previous day.

Day 3 might be From Castrojeriz to Fromista which is about 23/24 kms so about 5 hours walking but as possible variants, Boadillo del Camino, which is before Fromista, has a great albergue as does Poblacion de Campos shortly after Fromista.

The next morning you could walk to Carrion de los Condes which is about 18/19 kms, from Fromista, in time to catch the bus to Leon which is usually at 11 50 am and have a night in the city. I love Leon and think it is well worth a stop. The bus kind of follows the Camino as it calls at Terradillos de los Templarios, a common end of a stage from Carrion de los Condes, and Mansilla de las Mulas which is also a common stop. You would reach Leon about 1.40 pm. There is only 1 bus a day and booking is advised (ALSA)

The next morning there are frequent buses, again ALSA, to Astorga where you could start walking to the mountains or catch another bus to Rabanal del Camino or Foncebadon and start walking. The company for this is http://www.autocarespedrin.com

But that would be my Camino, lol, and you didn't ask for stages but stretches, so follow your heart and energy levels and enjoy the Meseta whichever stretch you choose. Buen Camino. Sorry, I think i have gone on a bit too much lol.

This was exactly what I had in mind before reading down thro all the posts. Great suggestion.
 

josephmcclain

Active Member
So I only have 10 days coming May to give my daughter a "taste of the Camino."
I have walked SJPP to Burgos 3 times now and LOVE that stretch (and once Leon to Santiago) so am thinking to walk 4 days on the Meseta and 5 days the Mountains after Astorga. Yes a bit chopped up but I'm not a real fan of Sarria to Santiago and don't want to do just the Meseta there I want to show my daughter a bit more variety. I do want to walk the Frances with my daughter there I simply think it's the most fun one for her it being her first Camino.

I obviously know people have different thoughts but am still curious to what most of you would suggest is the most scenic part of the Meseta.
Thanks
I agree with all of the above. I would probably choose Burgos which I love to Fromistá That will give you the entrance to the Meseta with the big climb, the little chapel in the first town, then Hornillos, San Blas, Hontanas. Castorjerez is amazing approaching it from the ruins of San Antonio. Beyond Fromistá I found it hard with endless straight stretches, hard but important for me. Also don´t forget San Nicholas, the hermitage just before you reach Vega de Itero. That was one of the most memorable stays for me on my camino that I just finished.
 
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Hollie Clevenger

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Sept to Oct (2015, CF), Oct to Nov (2017, CF)
I find the meseta fascinating though most of it is not really "scenic" in my opinion. If I was pressed to choose one section it would be from Hornillos to Fromista: I love the way Hontanas appears almost miraculously out of the ground, the ruins of San Anton spanning the road, and the distant views of miles of rolling plains when going up and down the hill near Castrojeriz.

Agreed!
 

DurhamParish

Un Cerveza, Por Favor
Year of past OR future Camino
Caminho Portuguese 2012 & 2018
Camino Frances 2014, 2015, 2015, 2017, 2018
I find the meseta fascinating though most of it is not really "scenic" in my opinion. If I was pressed to choose one section it would be from Hornillos to Fromista: I love the way Hontanas appears almost miraculously out of the ground, the ruins of San Anton spanning the road, and the distant views of miles of rolling plains when going up and down the hill near Castrojeriz.

I agree with Bradypus.
 
D

Deleted member 12253

Guest
So I only have 10 days coming May to give my daughter a "taste of the Camino."
I have walked SJPP to Burgos 3 times now and LOVE that stretch (and once Leon to Santiago) so am thinking to walk 4 days on the Meseta and 5 days the Mountains after Astorga. Yes a bit chopped up but I'm not a real fan of Sarria to Santiago and don't want to do just the Meseta there I want to show my daughter a bit more variety. I do want to walk the Frances with my daughter there I simply think it's the most fun one for her it being her first Camino.

I obviously know people have different thoughts but am still curious to what most of you would suggest is the most scenic part of the Meseta.
Thanks
None but lovely walking
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
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Haha...I get so carried away and always overshare . When i was about to post i actually hesitated, worried i was being too over the top but i figure people can take it or leave it. But I love the Camino and get over excited lol. I seem to constantly plan my next... All the best :)
No worries about being overly excited. I think your well expressed details are great. I call it "emotionally driven" enthusiasm and it often describes me as I overflow with excitement when talking about "all things Camino"!
 
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Camino frances to Fisterra/Muxia 2013, twice in 2014, 2015, twice in 2016, 2017, a week on the VdlP
No worries about being overly excited. I think your well expressed details are great. I call it "emotionally driven" enthusiasm and it often describes me as I overflow with excitement when talking about "all things Camino"!


Perfect! Thanks for the reassurance. It is indeed difficult not to get excited about the camino. All the best.
 

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