Via Serrana Update-
El Colmenar-Cueva del Gato-Ronda-Setanil de las Bodegas-Coripe
Still enjoying this camino. Still having beautiful weather. I’ve had minor difficulties with trail markings and gps track but not to bad.
Last I wrote I was in El Colmenar for the night. Something changed there but don’t know why. When I went out for dinner everything was closed. Not just for siesta but for the night. No worries though. Ventured out the next morning and had a beautiful walk through through the canyon, up the mountains to La Canada de Real Tesoro (beautiful day walking
) I planned on lunch in Canada but all restaurants and bars were close. No worries, food in my pack. Continued on to Jimera de Libar (doubling association stages) planning to spend the night. I called the hotel jungleboy stayed at but it was closed, called all casa Rurals all were closed, called the Campground closed. Frustrated I headed out thinking this may be a camping night but went to Benaojan hoping to find a hotel. But everything was closed. All hotels all bars all restaurants. I’m seeing a theme. Everything is closed. I don’t know Spanish but a local guided me to Eco Hotel Cueva del Gato. I called and they had a room (English speaking host). It was expensive at €115 but nice. It was a long almost 40km day for me so I was happy to take it. I talked to the hostess about why everything was closed and she didn’t know. Just said that it’s late in the season and things close. Jungle boy was here last year though, later in the season and he found a hotel so not sure was up.
I need to report that the walk from Jimera to Benajoan was more beautiful walking. An easy trail with moderate up and down going through a canyon with a pretty river and following above the RR track. I really enjoyed this stretch and with the morning start in the canyon was an epic beautiful day
Cueva el Gato was about 1.5 Km easy walking off the camino route but for me at least a worthy diversion. Maybe it can be included as a stage stop option? Oh…. I didn’t visit the cat cave because you need a guide to actually go inside.
I hiked 2.5 stages in one day so got a late start the next morning and a short 10km day to Ronda. Tough 10k though with a lot of up down. But Ronda was a beautiful town and I hiked another 14k exploring and going down to the bridge viewpoint. The short route down was closed for construction so had to take the long. Ronda is a bigger town than I expected and there’s a lot to see. Even found really good vegetarian food at a tapas bar I forget the name of. Stayed at El Colon Hotel which was basic but ok. Got upgraded to a double room and paid €70.
I will say the hostess at El Colon was great. I asked for a Peregrino stamp and she didn’t understand what it was for. I translated I would carry it to Santiago and show it to the Peregrino office as proof I was there. She seemed excited about this which was fun after so much time on the popular routes where I’m just another Peregrino. The few conversations I’ve had about this on Via Serrana have been special like this.
The next day was from Ronda to Setenil de las Bodegas. I I enjoyed the day though I had some adventures. Getting out of Ronda was straight forward and well marked though the markings didn’t follow the gps tracks. Eventually they merged though but about 5k out there were a couple of key turns that weren’t marked. Without the gps tracks would have missed it for sure. Eventually started seeing Arrows again but after I crossed a main road near a lookout, following yellow arrows onto a side road, I knew I was going off gps track but didn’t worry because the same happened earlier. I don’t know if I missed an arrow at a turn or it just wasn’t there but I didn’t see another marker all day. I wasn’t worried because I could see the route on my gps track and honestly, the walking was beautiful and I was enjoying it. I was on a decent road but after going through a small cluster of houses it turned to dirt. Not long after I came to a T. Smart thing would have been to turn left and get back on track but looking ahead to the road to the right it looked like more beautiful walking on farm roads. I went right. Beautiful walking for a few Km but eventually ended at a fence. I played rebel and jumped the fence then the road petered out for good at an old farmhouse and I was forced left and headed for the line of the gps track I could see. I didn’t go that way because google showed a different way so I took backroads to Setenil and made it ok. Honestly it was a beautiful walk, probably better than the official route, but I felt bad for jumping the fence.
Setenil is beautiful and I enjoyed walking around town even though the day tour crowds were there in quantity. Stayed at El Almendral because it seemed to be the only open hotel, think it was €46? Many restaurants in town but not many veggie options.
Today I doubled stages again and walked Setenil de las Bodegas-Coripe. Ended up being about 45 Km with some wandering around Olvera. The route to Olvera was also lacking in markings but I made due with gps tracks. At one point I was sure I was off course just walking tractor tracks through an olive grove but gps said I was on track so I pushed on and was ok. Oh… setenil is off the main route so this section is the off route stuff to get from Setenil back to the main route. After getting back on route it was all good.
Olvera was a nice town on a hill. I detoured 1-2km up to the big cathedral and castle on the hill. Had lunch then ventured to see them. They charged an entrance fee for both though so I skipped and got back to walking. I backtracked to the official route, stopped for an excellent Tarta, then dropped down to the RR
route. This was more beautiful walking! Just following an old rr grade that was never used for a railroad. The walking easy, slight down grade, no need to worry about markings (though I saw a few) or gps tracks cuz you just stay on the railway grade. It was about 20 Km like this. One old station had a small restaurant where you could get water and a bocadillo. After the last tunnel Estacion de Coribe sneaks up on you. It was bustling with Sunday people who had rented bikes to ride the grade then finished at the restaurant there. I didn’t check but it looked nice and it is also reported to be a hotel. Could be a nice place to stay. As you come out of the tunnel there’s a road to the right (before you reach the Estacion) and a Via Serrana tile marker guiding you right. From here you follow the road on a 3 Km well marked climb to Coribe. I am at Pension Coribe-Bar Pastor and have a good room with shared bath for €30
These have been very beautiful days walking. Loving the scenery, the old towns, the walking and not much of that on roads. And beautiful weather.
The days are good