LIVE from the Camino Arrived Lisbon to start Camino Portuguese.

[Trevhock]

Arrived from Merida by bus having walked up from Cordoba( started in Granada last year)
Stayed at Hostel Goodnight for three nights, 12 euros a night including good breakfast a warm welcome and very friendly people.Lisbon was sunny but a biting strong cold north wind.Did the sights and leaving pack at hostel walked up to Vilafranca using metro and train to get back and forth. Azambuja being the first place to stay at Residencial Flor da Primavera 20 euros, a good meal to be had next door at O Forno. A couple of kms out of Azambuja the camino turns left off the road along a track that becomes impassable because of water and mud, returning to the road follow as it snakes around untill Santiago and Fatima markers appear again.At Santarem stayed at Hotel Vitoria which a bit old fashioned for 25 euros you get a good buffet breakfast and wifi.on the way to Golega found myself in Pombalinho off the camino, but with the first Camino Santiago road sign in Portuguese,French and English, treacherous stretch from Azinghaga to Golega, stayed at municipal campsite in an apartment for 24.42 euros. Pleasant days walk, well signposted through wood but last kilometre to Tomar was again dangerous road walking. Just before turning down on to the N110 freshly painted arrows started going up the hill away from Tomar sign , maybe that was a quieter way but didn't feel right. In Tomar staying at Pensao Uniao, 30 euros

 

[nalod]

Will follow your progress. Safe walking.
Regards Nalod

 

[Trevhock]

Yesterday the walk to Alvaiazere was pleasant enjoyed walking along small lanes and tracks. Lost my way on woodland track ending at a friendly village called Areias.Anyway got there in the end stayed at O bras 31 euros dinner bed and breakfast no wifi . From Alvaiazere to Rabacal was very enjoyable small country tracks and lanes through fields, hamlets and villages. Came across two German pilgrims, Bas and Daniel and walked the last kms together to Rabacal. They have been staying at Bombarios most of the time and only once found a reluctance. They had beds and hot showers. Here at Rabacal staying in a sort Albergue for Peregrinos for 15 euros the bar up the road has wifi, the local cheese, bread and vinho verde on tap.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, trevhock,
I'm having trouble keeping you and Nalod separate, but I think he's just a few days behind you now that he's finished his Granada to Merida journey.

I don't know if you're a fan of Roman ruins, but the excavations in Conimbriga, about 12 (?) km before Coimbra are quite nice. Hope to hear how it's going as you progress. I walked from Lisbon in spring 2008 or 9 and never met aother soul, so the traffic must be increasing. Just in case you don't have it, there's a great list of all albergues here:

It's in Portuguese, but very self-explanatory. http://www.vialusitana.org/caminho-portugues/albergues/

I stayed mostly in the small residencial or pensao, like O Bras. They were always there when I needed them. Bom caminho, Laurie

 

[Trevhock]

Thanks for the link Laurie. Found the ruins and museum at Conimbriga fascinating especially liked the section of the old roman road between Lisbon and Braganca and the mosaics . Since Tomar have the feeling I am walking a via Lusitania. Today was another very enjoyable days walk along country tracks, lanes and minor country roads, often the sound of water gurgling. Came across a long, pretty, grass snake and continued to be refreshed by fallen roadside oranges. Didn't get lost though very nearly at Orelhudo passing just under a newly contstructed road you have turn right, the arrows start a few metres into the turning. Staying at Pensao Domus haven't negotiated price etc.but they have wifi. T

 

[Trevhock]

Hotek Domus cost 35 euros including breakfast. Spent a couple of hours looking around Coimbra, oldest university in Europe I think, got a sticker carimbo at the university library. Tomar and Coimbra are the places I'd like to spend more time in. Today was stormy wet and windy walking mostly on roads. A spell through woodland and another short one before Mealhada. Tried to find Albergue Peregrinos which was advertised en route but failed, it certainly was not just past the town centre as stated,after being buffeted by the stormy weather for too long now Staying at Oasis, nice hot bath and drying out. 23 euros breakfast not included, restaurante closed as its Monday.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, trevhock,
I stayed at the Oasis, too, and it was fine, but I have heard really good things about that Mealhada albergue. It opened after I walked through, and it sounds like they need some signage!

I don't know if you're a meat eater, but if you are, people drive up from Lisbon just to eat leitao in Mealhada (roast suckling pig). You will surely find a lot of options open, even on Monday.

You're just 4 days or so outside of Porto!

I don't know if you read the recent blog from Lisbon to Santiago (bluepony was in the name of the website). In any event, they couldn't find the place to stay in Albergaria and wound up in a very cold damp church cellar I think. I stayed at the Pensao Casa da Alameda (tel. 234 524 242). It's right on the camino, above a restaurant/bodega kind of place. Room with private bath was 25E, maybe more now. I also think there was a shared bath cheaper option. Hope you are well!

 

[Trevhock]

Roast suckling pig, Just my sort of thing! Had a decent meal at Tropical cafe which was fine but now I fancy suckling pig! It is annoying that the signs seem to run out, got to the centre of Mealhada and
Lost them, I haven't stayed in a dedicated
Albergue Peregrino for a very long time. No Albergue Peregrinos on the Camimo Mozarbe and so far from Lisbon to Porto, there is one somewhere well announced even with wifi but where? Maybe just me and this stormy weather. I'll treat tomorrow with
More care.

 

[Trevhock]

Expected more rain, but had a very pleasant and almost fragrant start. Passed the dedicated pilgrim Albergue at the exit to Mealheada and enjoyable walk to Agueda , had quite a few people wishing me a Bom Voyage. Saw two rabbits which is amazing as the caminho is strewn with empty shot gun cartridges. There is a dedicated pilgrim Albergue at Agueda information from tourist office in the Municipal up the hill. I discovered this when going to get my carimbo Wish the Brierley guide would make an extra special mention of Albergue being for pilgrims and not Albergue Casa Azul, anyway bumped into another German pilgrim on her way to Bombarios, she was delighted to know, having spent last night in a very dirty Bombarios with no hot water. Had a look around the Pilgrim Albergue it's really good. I'm staying at Pensao O Ribeirinho, 20 euros menu del dia 10 euros, i think should be staying in the albergue. Looking at the weather forecast looks like non stop rain.

 

[peregrina2000]

Well, trevhock, you've just missed your last opportunity to stay in a pilgrim albergue south of Porto! The Agueda albergue is new, and the ViaLusitana was quite excited and proud that they were able to work hard and get it opened -- I think it only dates from april 2012.

I also stayed in the Ribeirinho, and thought it was fine -- I know that others have made the mistake of knocking on the door of the pensao you see right as you cross the bridge into town, which by all reports is a house of ill repute. So at least you got into the right place.

Hope the rain holds off, and I'm also glad to hear that you are seeing other pilgrims along the way. Bom caminho, Laurie

 

[Trevhock]

The house of ill repute seems dilapidated, don't know whether it still is, shame lovely building. Watched the football last night at Pensao O Ribeirinho and my drinks and food was "on the house"
Had arranged to walk with German pilgrim to Albergaria and had a pleasant walk in the rain with her. So far on this camino only come across young German pilgrims experiencing their first camino.
On the camino Sanabres came across a. Village called Albergaria on top of a long hill. Every pilgrim that went to the bar would be given a scallop shell to write their name and country, he then attached it to the wall, creating an amazing grotto type effect. Here at Pensao Parente another very warm welcome in a quirky old building that might double as a home for one or two older people. The hospitalera personalised the carimbo with a picture of ourselves. While on the way, often the greeting is boa viagem, not Bom Caminho. Approaching Porto and despite the bad weather and one or two hair raising trafic moments feel

 

[Trevhock]

The house of ill repute seems dilapidated, don't know whether it still is, shame lovely building. Watched the football last night at Pensao O Ribeirinho and my drinks and food was "on the house"
Had arranged to walk with German pilgrim to Albergaria and had a pleasant walk in the rain with her. So far on this camino only come across young German pilgrims experiencing their first camino.
On the camino Sanabres came across a. Village called Albergaria on top of a long hill. Every pilgrim that went to the bar would be given a scallop shell to write their name and country, he then attached it to the wall, creating an amazing grotto type effect. Here at Pensao Parente another very warm welcome in a quirky old building that might double as a home for one or two older people. The lovely hospitalera personalised the carimbo with a picture of ourselves. While on the way, often the greeting is boa viagem, not Bom Caminho. Approaching Porto and despite the bad weather and one or two hair raising trafic moments feel it was worth it starting at Lisbon. Just looked at the weather forecast more rain, have had so much rain since starting in Cordoba.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, trevhock,
Your comments hit a chord with me. I have wondered why it is that I am such a fan of the Lisbon-Porto route even though I know there are a few dangerous road shoulder stretches, I know there are few albergues, I never met another pilgrim, and I was frustrated getting lost in eucalyptus forests. I guess it was the opportunity to see and get a feel for some out of the way parts of Portugal. To experience the incredible and repeated examples of kindness and helpfulness. To enjoy some of the Roman parts of Portugal. And to watch people going about their lives in all these places that are so far from the high tourist parts. And, to be fair, I also really enjoyed the opportunity to see the impressive sites in Tomar, Rabacal, Conimbriga, and Coimbra.

If you are in Sao Joao de Madeira for a night, you should check out the "hat museum" that's on the way out of town. I didn't see it till the following morning when I was leaving, but it looks like an extremely interesting place in an old hat factory. On another thread, I learned that the "Mad Hatter" is a term that was first applied to the many men working in the hat industry who were poisoned by mercury and developed dementia. el-camino-portugues/topic15637.html

Good luck with the weather! Laurie

 

[Trevhock]

Staying at Pensao Parente cost 15 euros Peregrino menu was again a bit over priced for what it was at 8.50 euros. Shared bathroom facilities not up to scratch. Had a disturbed night with coughing and splutterings echoing down corridor. It's just a genuine, friendly, basic, place. Another wet and rainy day going to make an early start to it.

 

[Trevhock]

Today was a wild weather day. Heavy rain, strong gusty winds, even the short time spent on woodland tracks were boggy, eucalyptus trees are supple but noisy in the wind. A relief to walk on asphalt. Other than that it was a pleasant days walk and ate quite a few oranges and tangerines by the kerbside. Wet weather gear still holding out but needs nikwaxing, boots still dry inside. Staying at Residencial Solar, room with a bathroom 27.50 including breakfast. Had a very nice long hot bath.
Tomorrow Porto. Bristol's twin city together with Bordeaux and Hannover. Porto on the Douro and Bristol on the majestic Avon and has the edge because John Cabot discovered America naming the new land he discovered after Bristol's Harbourmaster called Americal. Thought I'd get that in being a Bristolian. I am sure pilgrims would have left by sea from Bristol to Porto as the merchants traded between both cities. Hope tomorrow brings drier weather.

 

[Trevhock]

Walked From Sao Joao with the german pilgrim to Porto. Long tiring day, heavy showers in the morning, but sun most of afternoon loosing the way twice but some great moments. The last hill before Porto was on original roman road and entering Porto, there's an anticipation that something is going to happen and it does. What a fantastic way to enter the city centre over the bridge, exceptional. Staying at Tattva Hostel 13 euros near Cathedral.Tomorrow will probably move on. I haven't time to look around Porto, though this isn't first time here, I'd like to give more time to this visit. Just have to add it to the list, Lisbon, Tomar, Coimbra and also the Hat Museum.
.

 

[Trevhock]

At Tattva hostel you get a good breakfast as well, including slices of quince. Gratis carimbo available from Cathedral, having had a bookshop for many years wanted to get one from ' the most beautiful bookshop in the world' made the mistake of taking a photo with my iPhone and was told not to take photographs, pleaded that I was a fellow bookseller, and an angry no came, thought about the twin thing, but felt no humour, all the staff were rude as I took photos.shame that the only unfriendly Portugues happen to be booksellers, my Clifton Bookshop was more beautiful anyway, didn't get a carimbo. Good clear and frequent arrows lead you out of Porto, the ones I followed had no difficult or dangerous parts. Arrived at Vilarinho without knowing that I had arrived because the town isn't announced. There were some misleading faded arrows indicating going right just before but they seemed to lead to a loose angry dog. The Albergue Peregrinos is just off the main square. It's modern, clean, with towels, hot shower, microwave about 8 beds, looks like the beds have sheets as well, hospitalera didn't want to talk money until tomorrow so found a bar with wifi.

 

[Trevhock]

At Vilarinho there was also an English pilgrim. Very kind hospitalera dried our washing and gave us a decanter of port.walked to Barcelos together with other pilgrim stopping for lunch. heavy rain, hail and thunder and lightening and a bit of sunshine, still cold .at Pedra Furada, charismatic owner, lots of Santiago and his jazz souvenirs on the walls and quality restaurant at rear , best cabbage soup so far 1.50 euros. Albergue Peregrinos in Barcelos is modern, maybe 10 beds, microwave, no kitchen as such,bar next food has key, pingo Doce just down the road.Albergue Has wifi! . Another pilgrim turned up having not been able to find arrows on coastal route happens to be English. Never before in Albergue with an English person now there is three of us.

 

[Trevhock]

Walked to Ponte de Lima, long periods of heavy persistent rain, a few drops of sunshine. Stoped at cafe restaurante Viana 5.55 euros had a good meal and an espresso which the landlord put homemade aqua vita in making it even more delicious. know how beautiful this region can be having spent holidays here , pity to see various shades of grey.Albergue at Ponte de Lima at end of the old bridge great location. Two more English pilgrims and about six more German pilgrims I think. 5 euros, showers, kitchen, laundry room, wifi but wasn't working. Have to be in by 9pm and out by 9 am .

 

[Trevhock]

Stopped over in Ponte de Lima. Pensao Beira Rio is closed, staying at Pensao Sao Joao, 20 euros shared Bathroom, clean, pleasant with wifi. Spent afternoon with the first two English pilgrims.

 

[Trevhock]

A fantastic day, no rain, sun most if the time a very beautiful walk, few cars, beautiful country tracks over the hills to Rubiaes. Cold fairly isolated Albergue, couple of restaurantes down the road, no wifi, a lovely shop/bar.
Today from Rubiaes to Tui another very enjoyable day few cars many waterlogged, beautiful and ancient paths, fantastic views a d another dry sunny day, just before Tui was overtaken by an Italian pilgrim who started the day from Ponte de Lima. Last two days have been perfect.albergue Peregrinos in Tui, lovely old building, no kitchen, no wifi, communal showers being the negative for me.
Feel this is the time to sign off.
Thank you Laurie
Haven't heard the last of me Nalod!
Buen Camino.

 

[nalod]

Trev hope you doing well. Weather great for 3 days, rain today. I like this route. Now in Valencia. Will prob be in Santiago Thursday or Fri at latest can arrange to meet up if you still around. Nalod