When to start the Camino Frances? Crowds vs weather.

[MaxHelado]

I think I am almost definitely decided on the Frances. Almost probably sure. And starting in Pamplona without a great desire to walk the last 100k into SdC
I have flexibility on when I do it and was thinking of starting in September and walking for about 4 weeks.

On the one hand I know that September is a busier month so it would make more sense to start late in September.
But on the other hand the weather will become less certain as the days tick by so that would suggest starting sooner.
And on yet another hand as I am only planning on 15k a day any "crowds" that I experience are likely to leave me for dust after a few days so I should start earlier.

I have no wish to walk alone but nor do I want to jostle shoulders as if shuffling along Wembley Way for the FA Cup Final.

So when is the best time to start? A precise date would be enough. I don't need to know what time of day.

 

[Bob Howard]

Three full Camino Frances’ and a Leon to Santiago, and starting again from SJPDP in three days. Notwithstanding the “it’s too crowded” rending of garments so ubiquitous on our forum, I never saw any shuffling along or jostling of shoulders, actually or metaphorically, even on the much denigrated post-Sarria. The over-crowded meme, in my experience is simply without merit. But it lives and seems to get a new infusion of memeosity every year.

 

[Bradypus]

Three full Camino Frances’ and a Leon to Santiago, and starting again from SJPDP in three days. Notwithstanding the “it’s too crowded” rending of garments so ubiquitous on our forum, I never saw any shuffling along or jostling of shoulders, actually or metaphorically, even on the much denigrated post-Sarria. The over-crowded meme, in my experience is simply without merit. But it lives and seems to get a new infusion of memeosity every year.

A person's perception of "too crowded" is relative and depends a lot on their previous experience and personal preferences. I have walked 500+km on a pilgrim route in Norway and Sweden and met 3 other pilgrims in total. On my first Camino Frances I met about 30 other walkers over 800km. More recently I have walked the Via de la Plata from Sevilla and met about 20 other pilgrims on the way. That is about my ideal population density and my personal baseline. You may not find any merit in the idea that the Camino Frances is overcrowded in these peak seasons but I find it far too busy for my comfort. By contrast my walk from SJPDP in January this year was a delight.

 

[C clearly]

I've walked twice in October and found it a great time to walk. But expect some rain in Galicia.

 

[alexwalker]

Start in Pamplona in the beginning of the (any) week (Monday-ish) in Sept. and you should be fine.

 

[linkster]

I have started in late September ~20th at 7:00AM from SJPdP. I walked into Santiago on November 1 All Saints Day. I did not encounter a race for beds etc., but I stayed off stages a lot. There were a couple of albergues near the end that were starting to close. Afterward (early November) on the way to Fisterra and Muxia I did encounter several days in a row of rain and cold.

 

[Bob Howard]

A person's perception of "too crowded" is relative and depends a lot on their previous experience and personal preferences.

Exactly. That is inarguable. As I think I have said repeatedly in my previous posts, I would not deign to dispute a veteran pilgrim’s views on virtually anything, whether pack weight, shoes, or Camino route. You know from experience what you prefer and like. It is the not quite newly minted pilgrim who reads our forum who has seen the Movie and read and heard about wonderful and even life changing Camino experiences, the vast majority of which are about the Frances, which motivates me periodically to dispute what has become conventional wisdom here on the forum. I had decades of wilderness backpacking solitude, and loved it. And I have developed the same affection for the Camino. Again, my sole concern is what the takeaways a curious soon to be Pilgrim gleans from our discussions, with the Camino Frances is too crowded meme being front and center.

 

[JabbaPapa]

For some crowd avoidance but with fewer of the inconveniences, I think the best compromise would be beginning at the start of April. Possibly end of March. Pilgrims are starting to come back, and some seasonal Albergues are starting to reopen. There might be some Easter crowding closer to Santiago, depending on the date of Easter that year and when you arrive.

The period end of September to October is similar ; but the seasonal Albergues are starting to close instead, rather than that situation slowly improving as you move onwards.

 

[JerryStroebele]

Starting about the last week of September you will likely enjoy seeing the grape harvest. Buen Camino

 

[BillW]

I left SJPDP on Monday, September 19, 2022. Arrived October 23. (As someone suggested above, leaving on a Monday can help avoid a wave starting on the weekend.)

Crowds were a non-issue, even after Sarria. Don't let the complaints of busyness scare you away.

 

[dbier]

"I have no wish to walk alone but nor do I want to jostle shoulders as if shuffling along Wembley Way for the FA Cup Final."

That didn't even happen from Sarria to Santiago, ending in SdC on July 24th ( day before the feast day).

Now, the 25th was pretty crowded in SdC...but we had the King of Spain attending Mass that day, with Galician independence protests ( polite ones), in the middle of Covid.

I wouldn't be concerned.

 

[CWBuff]

Facing the choice between earlier start with possibility of the crowds vs later start with possibility of bad weather I'd take the sea-sick croc..... er... the crowds of course

Seriously - no brainer for me!

Good luck and Buen Cmino

 

[Anamiri]

I think I am almost definitely decided on the Frances. Almost probably sure. And starting in Pamplona without a great desire to walk the last 100k into SdC
I have flexibility on when I do it and was thinking of starting in September and walking for about 4 weeks.

On the one hand I know that September is a busier month so it would make more sense to start late in September.
But on the other hand the weather will become less certain as the days tick by so that would suggest starting sooner.
And on yet another hand as I am only planning on 15k a day any "crowds" that I experience are likely to leave me for dust after a few days so I should start earlier.

I have no wish to walk alone but nor do I want to jostle shoulders as if shuffling along Wembley Way for the FA Cup Final.

So when is the best time to start? A precise date would be enough. I don't need to know what time of day.

Being someone who walked in 2016 from SJPDP on 1st Sept, there were more people than beds. (I wasnt aware of this when I set out, and fortunately was a fast walker)
Over 400 people walked over on that day almost all expecting a bed in Roncesvalles, which isnt possible.
Between SJPDP and Roncesvalles there simply aren't that many beds to be had.
And of course the next day, and the day after that similar numbers for the first week or so.

The first few days into Pamplona are definitely a choke point with less beds than people at peak times.
Starting from Pamplona will probably help this.

A lot of people were following set guide book stages, and those places were busy. I think a lot of people have an itinerary, and a return ticket which makes them inflexible.
I didnt have a guide book, an app or a plan (other than getting to the start point) so I was able to stop wherever I liked without a predetermined idea. That worked in my favour.

Apart from the first hour of walking I didnt feel crowded, people walk at different paces, leave at different times and some stop more frequently or for longer. I often found the trail quite empty. 400 people spread across 20 kms and 6 hours or so isnt actually that crowded. I remember seeing very few people on the way down to Zubiri which was good as I picked my way down carefully.
After a while people started to thin out. Injuries' occur, people realise they cant walk the distances they thought - they adapt, book ahead, walk shorter days, go home etc. People who use pack transport limit themselves to places that accept bags.
The only other day (before Sarria) when it felt congested was in Estella - people queuing for the free wine.

I wouldnt walk in that first week of Sept again, I'd leave later in Sept, or late in August (I dont handle the heat that well, but I checked the temps for late August and early Sept are very similar). I like a less structured Camino so I wouldnt want to have to book ahead too far.

I found the numbers from Sarria heavy regardless of the season, it was as busy late June as late September - an actual conga line. If you dont need to walk that section it wont bother you.

 

[MaxHelado]

I wouldnt walk in that first week of Sept again, I'd leave later in Sept, or late in August

Anamiri, many thanks for taking the time to write such a complete and detailed response. This is so very helpful.

I am NOT a fast walker so it seems to me prudent that I leave later in September. If I left in August I would be forever expecting "the wave" to catch up with me.

Would I be right in thinking that your experience of crowds on the Camino was not so much when walking but on arriving? As you say, the crowds fairly quickly thin out on the trail but I imagine you felt it again when there were more people than beds at the end of a day.

Your post and those of others have made me think about what "crowded" means to me. I think I feel crowded when the presence of other walkers impacts on my own experience. Let me be honest, I get irritated when I am constantly listening to the tap, tap, tap of others' poles, or to incessant chatter, or even worse.....music. I want space to walk my own Camino and the opportunity to meet with others over a coffee, or lunch or dinner.

 

[Anamiri]

Anamiri, many thanks for taking the time to write such a complete and detailed response. This is so very helpful.

I am NOT a fast walker so it seems to me prudent that I leave later in September. If I left in August I would be forever expecting "the wave" to catch up with me.

Would I be right in thinking that your experience of crowds on the Camino was not so much when walking but on arriving? As you say, the crowds fairly quickly thin out on the trail but I imagine you felt it again when there were more people than beds at the end of a day.

Your post and those of others have made me think about what "crowded" means to me. I think I feel crowded when the presence of other walkers impacts on my own experience. Let me be honest, I get irritated when I am constantly listening to the tap, tap, tap of others' poles, or to incessant chatter, or even worse.....music. I want space to walk my own Camino and the opportunity to meet with others over a coffee, or lunch or dinner.

I noticed the crowds more at the beginning of the day, but then I walk fast, and started early.
Lots of people leave the albergue around the same time. The first time I walked it was a heatwave and pretty much everyone walked early. Then they thin out. Even after Sarria they tend to thin out, it just takes longer.
The albergues do fill up though so the rooms would be full at the end of the day. I would normally get in. shower, wash my clothes, then wander around the town or village for a bit, then I'd notice the place would have filled up when I returned.
I quite liked eating with other people at night so having people around in the evening doesn't bother me. I get my 'me' time when I'm walking.

 

[markie6]

. Again, my sole concern is what the takeaways a curious soon to be Pilgrim gleans from our discussions, with the Camino Frances is too crowded meme being front and center.

Well put Bob ... it seems that the camp who say the Camino has been ruined or not as good as it was are trying to dissuade new potential pilgrims from going

I like september , never too many apart from a few small sections.. good weather too

 

[Kirkie]

Anamiri, many thanks for taking the time to write such a complete and detailed response. This is so very helpful.

I am NOT a fast walker so it seems to me prudent that I leave later in September. If I left in August I would be forever expecting "the wave" to catch up with me.

Would I be right in thinking that your experience of crowds on the Camino was not so much when walking but on arriving? As you say, the crowds fairly quickly thin out on the trail but I imagine you felt it again when there were more people than beds at the end of a day.

Your post and those of others have made me think about what "crowded" means to me. I think I feel crowded when the presence of other walkers impacts on my own experience. Let me be honest, I get irritated when I am constantly listening to the tap, tap, tap of others' poles, or to incessant chatter, or even worse.....music. I want space to walk my own Camino and the opportunity to meet with others over a coffee, or lunch or dinner.

Tap, tap tap. Ouch! Last week a guy passed me in the woods - or forest, as they say in Warsaw - who didn't seem to know about shoes for his walking poles . I do sympathise!
It seems to me that once you set off, you are actually in charge - given that you are of an age and resources to so do - of what happens to you. Plan as much as you like.
In the end, it comes down to how you place your feet, and what you can see when you lift your eyes.
Be where you are, as often as you can be.
Buen camino.

 

[MaxHelado]

Thank you all for your valuable comments (as ever).
Thank you to those who say I should not worry, to those who offer coping strategies and to those who share their experiences of crowding.
A plea: let’s not step into a cancel culture where we deny the personal experience of those those who have found a Camino crowded.
All personal experiences, good and bad, are of equal validity.

 

[David Tallan]

I think I am almost definitely decided on the Frances. Almost probably sure. And starting in Pamplona without a great desire to walk the last 100k into SdC
I have flexibility on when I do it and was thinking of starting in September and walking for about 4 weeks.

On the one hand I know that September is a busier month so it would make more sense to start late in September.
But on the other hand the weather will become less certain as the days tick by so that would suggest starting sooner.
And on yet another hand as I am only planning on 15k a day any "crowds" that I experience are likely to leave me for dust after a few days so I should start earlier.

I have no wish to walk alone but nor do I want to jostle shoulders as if shuffling along Wembley Way for the FA Cup Final.

So when is the best time to start? A precise date would be enough. I don't need to know what time of day.

I found October a very nice month for a Camino but others really like the springtime.

I will add one more comment not to write off the last 100 km and let the scare mongering deter you. In October it really should not be too bad. This might come up especially if you find yourself forming bonds with fellow pilgrims. You might find that you regret leaving them to walk on to Santiago without you.

 

[JabbaPapa]

I found October a very nice month for a Camino but others really like the springtime.

I will add one more comment not to write off the last 100 km and let the scare mongering deter you. In October it really should not be too bad.

Well, "not too bad" is a relative concept, which I'd agree with BTW ; but for illustration purposes, last October on my Santiago to Sarria stretch, and so walking the opposite direction to most, what I'd find is that most of the time there were not too many coming towards me, but at times there would be actual crowds. At times, I could walk past several hundreds of pilgrims in the space of 10 minutes.

Having said that, despite never making any reservations, I never had any problems finding somewhere to sleep -- including because when those crowds were present, they were mostly made up of organised groups, and these increasingly have their own lodging arrangements separate to and independent of the "normal" Albergues network.

So the main problem regarding Albergues in October is that some of them will be closed for the season.

And if you keep apart from the daily "wave", you can likely manage crowd avoidance well enough.