A donation to the forum removes ads for you, and supports Ivar in his work running it

Advertisement

LIVE from the Camino Back on the Lana

Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#1
An hour's walk, a train, a metro, a plane, a bus, a night in Alicante, another train and two more buses found me back in Campillo de Altobuey, in Cuenca province, ready to restart my Lana camino broken off in April.

María, the helpful person in charge of the polidiportivo, put out a couple of sleeping mats and a blanket and gave me the key to the visitors' changing room. Loos and showers, free.

I had been hoping to make a gentle restart to my camino, stopping in a casa rural in Paracuellos de la Vega, ~18km off, but as it's a holiday week I thought I'd better ring to check they weren't full. They weren't, they have closed for invierno (in early October?). When I got to Paracuellos at 11.20 in the morning, there was a choice between trying to find somewhere else to stay or forging on. Paracuellos is a tiny village with a spectacular pentagonal castle dominating a gorge, and not a lot else, and its only bar was closing for the day at noon. So I took a deep breath and forged on, reaching Monteagudo de las Salinas at about 5pm, somewhat knackered by 36km, probably half on tarmac. With increasingly dodgy knees, I had thought 32km was my new limit, so it was a great morale boost to find I can still do a bit more, even if I hope I don't have to.
 

Attachments

Isca-camigo

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Various ones.
#3
I had already made up my mind to back to the CF this winter, the photo had me rethinking.

Buen Camino
 

Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (15 April 2013)
Camino Portuguese (1 May 2014)
Camino Mozárabe from Málaga (8 April 2015)
Camino del Norte & Camino Ingles (April 2016)
#6
Best wishes for strong knees and lots of info about accommodation.
Buen Camino!
 

SYates

Camino Fossil AD 1999
Camino(s) past & future
First: Camino Francés 1999
...
Last: Camino Inglés 2018

Now: http://egeria.house/
#7
Buen Camino, Alan and hope to see you when you arrive in Santiago! SY
 
Camino(s) past & future
Via Podiensis 2002, Camino Frances 2003, 2004, 2008, 2012, Via de La Plata 2005, 2006. 2013, Camino Ingles 2013, Camino de Madrid 2008, Camino Salvador 2008, Camino del Norte 2010, Camino de Levante 2012,
Camino Mozarabe 2015, Camino Salvador 2015, Camino Primitivo 2015
#8
Well done Alan!! We completed the Lana in Burgos on the 4th of October. Your accommodation list was very helpful and quite accurate!! One change was the Rincon Sandra in Monteagudo, not the Abuela. Remember, no tienda in Retortillo or Quintanarraya!! Cheers and Buen Camino!!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#9
In Monteagudo de las Salinas I stayed at a casa rural at the entrance to the village. The owner has converted its attic into an "albergue", with 4-5 beds in alcoves. Very comfortable, and the bar/restaurant downstairs does perfectly decent food. As Kevin says, the Rincón de Sandra casa rural, up near the castle, is the other option in the village.

The walk from Monteagudo to Fuentes (24km) was great. Effectively no tarmac from start to finish, except in the villages themselves. No water en route. At first through deep pine forests going steadily up to beautiful open moorland with holm oaks, then down through rolling cereal fields to Fuentes, a bustling friendly village. The albergue there is attached to the ermita of the Virgen de Gracia, with a bunk bed and a tiny loo/shower, free. The key is held by the nearby Cazadores bar, which does a good menú del día (and is open at 7am for breakfast). If two people happen to coincide in the albergue I would suggest the richer one goes to one of the two pensións or the casa rural in the village, unless they are very good friends, not least as they would have to draw lots for who gets the blanket and who the pillow, as there is only one of each.
 
Camino(s) past & future
StJpdeP/SIdeC done 2011, Sevilla/SIdeC done 201313
#10
In Monteagudo de las Salinas I stayed at a casa rural at the entrance to the village. The owner has converted its attic into an "albergue", with 4-5 beds in alcoves. Very comfortable, and the bar/restaurant downstairs does perfectly decent food. As Kevin says, the Rincón de Sandra casa rural, up near the castle, is the other option in the village.

The walk from Monteagudo to Fuentes (24km) was great. Effectively no tarmac from start to finish, except in the villages themselves. No water en route. At first through deep pine forests going steadily up to beautiful open moorland with holm oaks, then down through rolling cereal fields to Fuentes, a bustling friendly village. The albergue there is attached to the ermita of the Virgen de Gracia, with a bunk bed and a tiny loo/shower, free. The key is held by the nearby Cazadores bar, which does a good menú del día (and is open at 7am for breakfast). If two people happen to coincide in the albergue I would suggest the richer one goes to one of the two pensións or the casa rural in the village, unless they are very good friends, not least as they would have to draw lots for who gets the blanket and who the pillow, as there is only one of each.

Hello Alan. Walked the Alicante to Cuenca section of the Lana, finishing in Cuenca a couple of weeks ago. I thoroughly enjoyed the journey and was disappointed to have to stop at Cuenca. I'd be really interested to hear how the section Cuenca/Burgos works out for you if you walk that far, particularly in those one or two places where the Amigos' Guia indicates that accommodation is doubtful. In the meantime do take care and Buen Camino! Martin o Leary.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#12
In Monteagudo de las Salinas I stayed at a casa rural at the entrance to the village. The owner has converted its attic into an "albergue", with 4-5 beds in alcoves. Very comfortable, and the bar/restaurant downstairs does perfectly decent food. As Kevin says, the Rincón de Sandra casa rural, up near the castle, is the other option in the village.

The walk from Monteagudo to Fuentes (24km) was great. Effectively no tarmac from start to finish, except in the villages themselves. No water en route. At first through deep pine forests going steadily up to beautiful open moorland with holm oaks, then down through rolling cereal fields to Fuentes, a bustling friendly village. The albergue there is attached to the ermita of the Virgen de Gracia, with a bunk bed and a tiny loo/shower, free. The key is held by the nearby Cazadores bar, which does a good menú del día (and is open at 7am for breakfast). If two people happen to coincide in the albergue I would suggest the richer one goes to one of the two pensións or the casa rural in the village, unless they are very good friends, not least as they would have to draw lots for who gets the blanket and who the pillow, as there is only one of each.
Keep 'em coming, Alan! Enjoying them.

But you enjoy as well. Buen Camino!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 15,Portuguese 16,Finisterre Muxia 16,Ingles16,, Almeria to Muxia,Finesterre 18
#13
In Monteagudo de las Salinas I stayed at a casa rural at the entrance to the village. The owner has converted its attic into an "albergue", with 4-5 beds in alcoves. Very comfortable, and the bar/restaurant downstairs does perfectly decent food. As Kevin says, the Rincón de Sandra casa rural, up near the castle, is the other option in the village.

The walk from Monteagudo to Fuentes (24km) was great. Effectively no tarmac from start to finish, except in the villages themselves. No water en route. At first through deep pine forests going steadily up to beautiful open moorland with holm oaks, then down through rolling cereal fields to Fuentes, a bustling friendly village. The albergue there is attached to the ermita of the Virgen de Gracia, with a bunk bed and a tiny loo/shower, free. The key is held by the nearby Cazadores bar, which does a good menú del día (and is open at 7am for breakfast). If two people happen to coincide in the albergue I would suggest the richer one goes to one of the two pensións or the casa rural in the village, unless they are very good friends, not least as they would have to draw lots for who gets the blanket and who the pillow, as there is only one of each.
So many thanks to you for your words and advice,,,very inspirational
 
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#14
Fuentes to Cuenca is a pleasant easy day. Left just before dawn to get as much time in the hanging city as possible. The cañada real is easy to follow in the half light. A couple of bird rich lagunas, a couple of villages with fuentes, and then the dreary suburbs of the ciudad encantada.

I was the 100th person in Cuenca's albergue this year, beating last year's record by 20 or more, and the first ever to arrive from Xàbia. The duty hospitaler@'s number is on the door, and Luis arrived almost immediately to let me in. 3 bunks and three single beds, loo and shower, microwave, donativo. The albergue is opposite the hospital of Santiago, just by the Júcar on the camino leaving northwards. Luis is hugely helpful and an enthusiastic caminant so we had a pleasant chat about caminos less travelled - he is the only other person I've met who has walked the Castellano-Aragonés
 

Isca-camigo

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Various ones.
#15
Hi Alan just some questions I have if you don't mind.Are the arrows well marked for the sections you have walked since coming back, do you need a guide? Have you had any access problems because of fincas, etc? What is your opinion of walking the way in February, do you think the paths will be passable after the Winter rains?

Yours very gratefully

M
 
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#16
Hi Alan just some questions I have if you don't mind.Are the arrows well marked for the sections you have walked since coming back, do you need a guide? Have you had any access problems because of fincas, etc? What is your opinion of walking the way in February, do you think the paths will be passable after the Winter rains?

Yours very gratefully

M
Arrows excellent, bit muddy today but mostly not. One finca after Monteagudo de las Salinas has "prohibido el paso" signs but yellow arrows right next to them, and in 2 days there is apparently a block at Villaescusa de los Palositas where a new landlord is trying to close the cañada real/camino but I've been told to jump the gate as the block is illegal. Otherwise fine. February could be claggy or could be dry, no way of predicting. The guide EL CAMINO DE LA Lana CAmINO DE SANTIAGO DESDE VALENCIA Y Alicante (can't find a Web link, but easily googled) is pretty good, coupled with info from the hospitaler@s etc.
 

Isca-camigo

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Various ones.
#17
Thank you. I was looking at the Alicante website a couple of days ago and they mentioned a new Albergue up the road, I'm not sure the etapa it is in but it's in La Muralla de Retortillo de Soria.
 
Last edited:
#18
Hello Alan. Walked the Alicante to Cuenca section of the Lana, finishing in Cuenca a couple of weeks ago. I thoroughly enjoyed the journey and was disappointed to have to stop at Cuenca. I'd be really interested to hear how the section Cuenca/Burgos works out for you if you walk that far, particularly in those one or two places where the Amigos' Guia indicates that accommodation is doubtful. In the meantime do take care and Buen Camino! Martin o Leary.
Dias Muire duit a Mhairtin Antaine (cnocadoiri) anseo! Aon scéal? Tony and I are walking the Le Puy to SJPdP and I've done the LaLana last year - very solitary after Cuenca. Soria is tough and it's preferable to walk with a partner. One or 2 rough nights on floors but accomodation is available. The real killer for me was getting breakfast ! and on 6 or 7 mornings I had 20km walks before getting food. One rip off hostal which I will send you name of on this thread when I get a chance to look it up (later found out that a hospitalero from 6 k out the road will collect you and put you up for a fraction of the price - perhaps other readers can provide a phone no. or name ? Brilliant scenery and most of the last 150 k shares the Camino El Cid. Ádh mór
 
Camino(s) past & future
StJpdeP/SIdeC done 2011, Sevilla/SIdeC done 201313
#19
Dias Muire duit a Mhairtin Antaine (cnocadoiri) anseo! Aon scéal? Tony and I are walking the Le Puy to SJPdP and I've done the LaLana last year - very solitary after Cuenca. Soria is tough and it's preferable to walk with a partner. One or 2 rough nights on floors but accomodation is available. The real killer for me was getting breakfast ! and on 6 or 7 mornings I had 20km walks before getting food. One rip off hostal which I will send you name of on this thread when I get a chance to look it up (later found out that a hospitalero from 6 k out the road will collect you and put you up for a fraction of the price - perhaps other readers can provide a phone no. or name ? Brilliant scenery and most of the last 150 k shares the Camino El Cid. Ádh
Dias Muire duit a Mhairtin Antaine (cnocadoiri) anseo! Aon scéal? Tony and I are walking the Le Puy to SJPdP and I've done the LaLana last year - very solitary after Cuenca. Soria is tough and it's preferable to walk with a partner. One or 2 rough nights on floors but accomodation is available. The real killer for me was getting breakfast ! and on 6 or 7 mornings I had 20km walks before getting food. One rip off hostal which I will send you name of on this thread when I get a chance to look it up (later found out that a hospitalero from 6 k out the road will collect you and put you up for a fraction of the price - perhaps other readers can provide a phone no. or name ? Brilliant scenery and most of the last 150 k shares the Camino El Cid. Ádh mór

Hello Alansykes.I hope the info offered here by Antaine will be of assistance to you. Looks like the stages of the Lana to Burgos are a little more challenging than those to Cuenca. Take care and enjoy. Agus Antaine mo bhuiochas duit. Bon chemin!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#20
Cuenca to Villar de Domingo Garcia

The first 16km are on tarmac but otherwise OK. From Tondos you are back on the cañada real, and back in proper countryside. The last coffee is at Chillarón, 8km from Cuenca. At Nohelda there is a Roman villa with famous mosaic, all shut up for the holiday weekend. 2km on a fast, busy and quite narrow road, then back into countryside, past the sad remains of the deserted village of Villalbilla. Quite recently abandoned, by the looks of it. The Bar Goyo in Villar de Domingo Garcia does some food and has the keys to the albergue, in the former school. 2 bunks in a cramped room, loo and shower, free. The Bar Plaza was open at 7 for breakfast.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#21
Villar de Domingo Garcia to Villaconejos de Trabaque.

A great day, 90% off tarmac. Couple of villages en route, Albalate de las Nogueras very handsome with partially Romanesque church replacing the minaret, and excellent coffee in a truck stop at the entrance to the village. Rolling russet countryside, and the final 6km besides the Río Trabaque, with apple trees and quinces groaning with ripe fruit. The albergue in Villaconejos is a pilgrim palace, the former house of the caretaker of the ermita of the Immaculate Conception at the entrance to the village, kitchen, spacious sitting room, three bedrooms with three bunks and three single beds, loo and shower, donativo.

Hugely hospitable hospitalero Pepe very kindly invited me to dinner. He is the energetic president of the Cuenca amigos, and he and I and a couple of his fellow amigos had a very convivial feast in the nearby cave where he and his ancestors have made wine for centuries. And we did sample some of his products, ¿cómo no?

A most enjoyable and memorable evening.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#22
Generous Pepe's delicious wine and, for me, late night, fortunately did not stop me leaving the albergue by 7.20am, with Sirius blazing bright - so bright I thought it must be a planet, until I saw the familiar shape of Orion fading nearby. The bar in Villaconejos de T opens at 7.30, which is a good thing as there is nothing else for 17km.

Villaconejos de Trabaque to Salmerón

Another 4 star day, starting with undulating hills on all sides, then a section besides the gorge of the fast flowing and melodious tree-lined Guadiela, then a slightly alarming crossing over its bridge with an overflowing section. The water was barely above my ankles, but the surface was very slippery and easy to have a nasty fall. The pale green water was delicious and it would be a lovely spot for a swim, wide and neck deep and cool, but I resisted the temptation. Shortly after you near Albendea, where there is a bar but I carried on to Valdeolivas. 6 more km, mostly the only tarmac of the day, but a very quiet road. Valdeolivas' impressive 4 tiered 12th century church tower had been visible from about 10km, and it would have been pleasant to visit its church, but it was all tightly shut up. The town was a pleasure, with several bars and tiendas, and the first cash machine since Cuenca. I had a pleasant and welcome lunch in the plaza Nueva, one of those increasingly rare places where there is no choice, you just eat what's put in front of you. Very good it was too. And then on another 6km to Salmerón, shortly after Valdeolivas making my first ever footsteps in Guadalajara province. The albergue in Salmerón is another treat, housed in the 16th century former office and prison of the Inquisition. The albergue is very much in the office section rather than the cells - high first floor room with five beds, loo and shower, 5€, key from the Cazador bar. My first night in a prison.
 

Attachments

#23
Fuentes to Cuenca is a pleasant easy day. Left just before dawn to get as much time in the hanging city as possible. The cañada real is easy to follow in the half light. A couple of bird rich lagunas, a couple of villages with fuentes, and then the dreary suburbs of the ciudad encantada.

I was the 100th person in Cuenca's albergue this year, beating last year's record by 20 or more, and the first ever to arrive from Xàbia. The duty hospitaler@'s number is on the door, and Luis arrived almost immediately to let me in. 3 bunks and three single beds, loo and shower, microwave, donativo. The albergue is opposite the hospital of Santiago, just by the Júcar on the camino leaving northwards. Luis is hugely helpful and an enthusiastic caminant so we had a pleasant chat about caminos less travelled - he is the only other person I've met who has walked the Castellano-Aragonés
Hi Alan,

So glad that you got to meet Luis. He is a lovely man and a real Camino aficionado. He is always out and about walking various Caminos, sometimes with his 80+ year old father! I met him while walking with a group of fellow hospitaleros year's end 2013. It was great fun arriving in Santiago on December 31st. Years ago he sent me an information packet about the Lana but I have yet to walk it. Your posts have certainly whet my appetite. Keep the posts up!

Cheers,
LT
 
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#25
Salmerón to Viana de Mondéjar

Another wonderful day. With hindsight, it might be better to stay in Valdeolivas, despite Salmerón's splendid albergue. The rest of the village is a bit sad, with a tienda only open from 10-2, and I only saw men older than me (57) the whole time I was there. Amazingly, the bar was open at 8 so I got coffee, and the owner, a contender for this year's "Surliest Spanish Barman" award, kindly made me a bocadillo to take away, as Viana de Mondéjar has no tienda, open or closed.

There is a sharpish rise out of the village, c300m in an hour, but the reward was breath-taking views back over about 80km of Cuenca province. Then a woodland path until the camino is illegally blocked by a new landowner. Pepe in Villaconejos and Luis in Cuenca both told me to ignore the padlocked gate and "prohibido el paso" signs and walk over the fence 20 yards to the left of the gate. So, slightly nervously, I did, shortly afterwards passing a hideously vulgar new hacienda which Señor Latifundista has built for himself right next to the crumbling remains of Villaescusa de los Palositos' Romanesque church. Very sad, and irritating to have to crawl under his massive gates to get off his land. Apparently the charming man generously allows the former villagers back to the church to lay flowers on their family graves on one day a year.

Anyway, after that it's fabulous again, and soon you get you the first sight of the twin peaks of the Tetas de Viana, with a goat track leading you towards them through sweet smelling juniper and thyme and rosemary.

It felt like a lot more than the 21km it took, but wonderful. The albergue in Viana de Mondéjar is brand new, with 3 bunks, 1 blanket, no pillows and a spacious sitting room, free. The number to call is on the door. - a nice young man from the ayuntamiento drove out from Trillo with the key. The view from the bedroom is straight up to the Tetas, possibly the best view from any albergue I've stayed in. The village has a midweek population of 5, so the bar is usually closed, but José, the owner, saw me and opened up and we had a couple of cañas and a chat. Very kind.
 

Attachments

Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#26
Viana de Mondéjar to Trillo.

A half day, as I thought it would be silly to get so close and not climb up the Tetas de Viana. And I'm so glad I did, as the view from the top was breathtaking. First time since leaving the sea with no morning coffee or toast, but so it goes. Relatively easy ascent for the first hour, then a chain to help you on and finally a metal ladder to get you up the cliff to the top. And then 360° views. Just amazing. The descent towards Trillo was less pleasant, but nothing too hard - a scramble here and there, but soon back into pleasant woodland trails and so to Trillo, crossing the Tajo by a pretty 16th century bridge just where the Cifuentes river joins it.

And the Cifuentes joins it with a BANG, dropping through the middle of Trillo via four or five spectacular waterfalls. The albergue in Trillo is in the plaza de toros just by the Tajo; call the number on the door and someone will come with the key. 4 single beds, loos and showers, no blankets, one pillow, free. Judging by the huge looking glass, the bedroom is also the matador's changing room. According to my wikiloc, going up the Tetas was 465m of elevation over 13km - the direct route is about 7km with very little elevation. Not going up the Tetas would make going on to Cifuentes (c12km) very easy, or other people go directly to Trillo from Salmerón. I liked Trillo very much, and would recommend staying there.

Trillo to Masegoso de Tajuña: you leave Trillo, both of whose bars are open at dawn, by the waterfall staircase. After that the Cifuentes is less melodramatic, leading you steadily upwards to Cifuentes town, via two other villages which both have coffee. I found Cifuentes a bit depressing and was glad I wasn't staying there - for example, the outstanding doorway to the ancient synagogue now has a horrible modern metal door. A few km on you see the last of the Tetas de Viana in the distance, and the less attractive modern tetas of the cooling towers of Trillo's nuclear power station.

Then more undulating country trails, ending up leaving the camino at Moranchel, and following the Tajuña flowing swiftly past an attractive wood of poplars, some moving gently from yellow to gold, some still lime green. And finally to the Las Vegas truck stop at Masegoso de Tajuña, perhaps 2km off the camino on the N204 main road, and ~22km from Trillo.

One of the pics, if I manage to attach them, is looking down towards Trillo from the Tetas, the other is of one of the cascades of the Cifuentes going through Trillo.
 

Attachments

Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#27
Masegoso de Tajuña to Aragosa:

Breakfast at Las Vegas only started at 8, but as it's only barely light starting at 8.30 is no trouble. I was surprised to see a yellow arrow at the exit to Masegoso de T, and later discovered it is on the Ruta de los Calatravos between Argamisilla de Calatrava and Santo Domingo de la Calzada, another partial to tick off. 8km of beautiful rolling countryside takes you back onto the Lana at Las Inviernas. Another 8km and you have the option of lunch at the motorway crossing.

At Mirabueno, shortly after the motorway crossing, the Lana splits in two. You can either head north to Atienza, or turn right and go to Atienza vía Sigüenza, taking an extra day. As Sigüenza sounds well worth a visit, I turned right, spending the night at Aragosa. Aragosa is in the spectacular canyon of the río Dulce, with vultures circling overhead, and tasty walnuts to eat underfoot. The casa rural is very luxurious, with a generous pilgrim discount, although 2 nights running sleeping between sheets seems very self-indulgent.
 

OLDER threads on this topic



A few items available from the Camino Forum Store



Pilgrims here right now

Advertisement
Booking.com

Latest posts

Most read today

Most downloaded Resources

Forum Rules

Forum Rules

Camino Forum Store

Camino Forum Store

Casa Ivar Newsletter

Forum Donation

Forum Donation
For those with no forum account, it is possible to donate here as well. Thank you for your support! Ivar

Follow Casa Ivar on Instagram

When is the best time to walk?

  • January

    Votes: 8 1.1%
  • February

    Votes: 4 0.5%
  • March

    Votes: 33 4.5%
  • April

    Votes: 108 14.7%
  • May

    Votes: 179 24.4%
  • June

    Votes: 53 7.2%
  • July

    Votes: 15 2.0%
  • August

    Votes: 10 1.4%
  • September

    Votes: 219 29.8%
  • October

    Votes: 89 12.1%
  • November

    Votes: 11 1.5%
  • December

    Votes: 5 0.7%
Top