Descent into Roncesvalles

[Ahaj]

I have only ever turned right and descended on the road into Ronscevalles assuming it would be too hard on the knees to go the main route. I have an occasional, minor degree of pain in one knee on steep descents. I am wondering just how hard the forest way is. Has anyone done both and have an opinion on which they prefer and why? I’m thinking of giving it a go but only if I’m really missing out by going the longer road way.

 

[Former member 104756]

HI @Ahaj

Last October I walked from SJPP to Roncesvalles for the 4th time. All previous times I took the steep path, but this time I took the alternative. I thoroughly enjoyed it and found it picturesque. I've read descriptions of it as 'walking on the road' but I think that's misleading. It's a very quiet 'road' and much of the time we were on a grassy verge. I wonder if that was your experience. There were some lovely views looking down to Roncesvalles and I liked the entry into Roncesvalles.

The steep path through the forest is atmospheric for sure, but I seem to recall that each time I've walked it I was very focused on how I was walking, and being careful not to trip or slide. I found the alternative more enjoyable in that regard. So, in trying to answer your question, I have enjoyed both but I too have a few knee issues - and if I walk that path again, I will choose 'the road' option again.

 

[mspath]

Although it was years ago I have walked both paths down from Ibaneta. The forest way can be slippery and covered in roots which could catch your foot. The road route always seemed easy. This photo from winter 2007 shows the view of Roncesvalles from the road route in snow.

 

[Ahaj]

HI @Ahaj

Last October I walked from SJPP to Roncesvalles for the 4th time. All previous times I took the steep path, but this time I took the alternative. I thoroughly enjoyed it and found it picturesque. I've read descriptions of it as 'walking on the road' but I think that's misleading. It's a very quiet 'road' and much of the time we were on a grassy verge. I wonder if that was your experience. There were some lovely views looking down to Roncesvalles and I liked the entry into Roncesvalles.

The steep path through the forest is atmospheric for sure, but I seem to recall that each time I've walked it I was very focused on how I was walking, and being careful not to trip or slide. I found the alternative more enjoyable in that regard. So, in trying to answer your question, I have enjoyed both but I too have a few knee issues - and if I walk that path again, I will choose 'the road' option again.

Thank you so much! I agree I found it very pretty- the heather was in full flower and very stunning. I think like you I might find the concentration on walking on the forest track would reduce the enjoyment.

 

[Ahaj]

Although it was years ago I have walked both paths down from Ibaneta. The forest way can be slippery and covered in roots which could catch your foot. The road route always seemed easy. This photo from winter 2007 shows the view of Roncesvalles from the road route in snow.

View attachment 164496

Thank you for your reply- I can be slightly accident prone so another factor pushing me towards the road route!

 

[Anhalter]

Havin walked both, i found the left path a bit more beautiful but a lot harder on the knees. Pretty sure elevation profiles for both can be found online, but to make things short: if you get issues with yopur knees on steep descents, take the right hand path.

 

[t2andreo]

If you have a sketchy hip, knee, or leg. I recommend continuing to take the road snaking down from the peak. There is a more direct route, through the woods.

You make your choice at the pole / marker that splits the trail into two routes - the road route mentioned, and the forest route.

Be advised that the forest route is known to be slippery and somewhat treacherous at times, especially for folks who are not fully ambulatory and fall resistant.

Hope this helps.

Tom

 

[JBerg]

If you have a sketchy hip, knee, or leg. I recommend continuing to take the road snaking down from the peak. There is a more direct route, through the woods.

You make your choice at the pole / marker that splits the trail into two routes - the road route mentioned, and the forest route.

Be advised that the forest route is known to be slippery and somewhat treacherous at times, especially for folks who are not fully ambulatory and fall resistant.

Hope this helps.

Tom

this was very helpful. thank you.

 

[t2andreo]

De nada!

 

[kayagee66]

I’ve done both.
The straight down is steep and hard on the knees.
And slippery when wet.

 

[John Crawford Howell]

I went down through the beechwood forest with two companions I had met earlier in the day. I was in the lead. When I did not hear their voices, I turned around to face uphill. In an instant, I fell backwards about 5 meters straight down the mountain, landing at the base of a tree hitting my head. Before that, as I was falling, my right arm was shredded by the rocks in the trail. One of my companions was from Brazil. I had some gauze in my backpack and duct tape wrapped around my trekking poles. She stopped the bleeding. At Roncesvalles, I showered and tried to remove some gravel around the wound. I didn't do a very good job. The next day, at the Albergue Suseia in Zubiri, two Austrian nurses who were traveling together saw my arm. After I showered and removed yesterday's gauze and tape (there was not enough gauze to cover the wound), the nurses picked out the remaining pieces of gravel, and removed from their medical kits, that would be the envy of any EMT ambulance, what appeared to be a sophisticated battle dressing. They said to keep it on for a week. I removed it in Logroño, and was stunned that it had healed so well. I could never thank Gabriella and Zlatica enough. I still have a scar on my right arm reminding me of that experience. Now then, to the question: road or forest? Of course, I will take the forest again. Carefully.

 

[Rmarkob]

I took the steep forest route in September 2021 on the recommendation of Joseph from Beilari. It was indeed beautiful, and I had never experienced problems with steep descents - until that day!

I developed a twinge in one of my knees that never really left me during subsequent descents on that Camino (it's fine now). I also tripped while taking a detour around a fallen tree, but suffered no damage other than to my pride!

My next CF will be with my wife, who has foot problems. We will definitely take the alternative path, and I won't even blame it on her!

 

[BrooksBe]

I've done both and the forest route is very beautiful but hard on the knee's and poles are a must. When it's wet you should not take the forest as it will be very difficult to keep from slipping.

 

[kmrice]

Has anyone done both and have an opinion on which they prefer and why? I’m thinking of giving it a go but only if I’m really missing out by going the longer road way.

My wife and I have done it both ways, the first time on the forest path and the second time on the roadway. We thought the views on the roadway path were outstanding. The views on the forest path might be better, I suppose, but you sure couldn’t prove it by us; we were too busy watching our feet to look up. It’s pretty challenging. We didn’t regret taking the other path the second time.

 

[Amigos caminando]

The pilgrim office in SJPDP recommends not to take the forest route. The alternate is quite beautiful.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

@Ahaj, this information is likely well known to you but I'm including it for those reading this thread that are unfamiliar with the two ways down to Roncesvalles, the forest trail that is marked as the camino and the variant way following the road marked as the "soft" or easy way. There are a number of reports on the forum from people who wanted to avoid the forest way but got confused and ended up taking it by accident. The following thread discusses these two ways down from the Col de Lepoeder in detail and it has a lot of maps, aerial views and pictures.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/road-from-col-leopolder-to-ibaneta.75150/

 

[SusanH]

HI @Ahaj

Last October I walked from SJPP to Roncesvalles for the 4th time. All previous times I took the steep path, but this time I took the alternative. I thoroughly enjoyed it and found it picturesque. I've read descriptions of it as 'walking on the road' but I think that's misleading. It's a very quiet 'road' and much of the time we were on a grassy verge. I wonder if that was your experience. There were some lovely views looking down to Roncesvalles and I liked the entry into Roncesvalles.

The steep path through the forest is atmospheric for sure, but I seem to recall that each time I've walked it I was very focused on how I was walking, and being careful not to trip or slide. I found the alternative more enjoyable in that regard. So, in trying to answer your question, I have enjoyed both but I too have a few knee issues - and if I walk that path again, I will choose 'the road' option again.

Absolutely!!!!

 

[jascreative]

I've walked both trails with my dad -- the first time we took the forest path, then on our second walk we opted to follow the road down to the Ibaneta chapel -- it was peaceful, lovely, and we stopped to watch a hawk glide through the valley -- a special moment -- would go this way again. Met only one other person walking it so a quieter choice (at least on that day it was) --

 

[Virginia G.]

I have only ever turned right and descended on the road into Ronscevalles assuming it would be too hard on the knees to go the main route. I have an occasional, minor degree of pain in one knee on steep descents. I am wondering just how hard the forest way is. Has anyone done both and have an opinion on which they prefer and why? I’m thinking of giving it a go but only if I’m really missing out by going the longer road way.

Hi there, fellow pilgrim! I've only walked the route that goes off to the left, sometimes called the steep route. It was steeper at the beginning and a couple of places after that, but mostly I was carried away by what I've come to call The Enchanted Woods. It was absolutely gorgeous. However! My legs were so tired from having crossed the Pyrenees already that I ended up with a very sore knee until I went to bed that night. Turns out was actually due to tight calf muscles. The next morning it was okay. So yes, it can be harder on the knees, especially for people like me who weren't that well prepared.

 

[towanda1961]

I completely missed the “easier” option and took the forest route. It was beautiful and very peaceful as I was the only one walking that way; which was good because I kept declaring very loudly, “You’ve got to be kidding me!!” It was ridiculously steep. My knees were fine, but when I arrived in Roncesvalles I feared that my toes were ruined from slamming into the front of my boots. I recovered, eventually, but next time I’ll watch carefully for the decision point and spare my toes, and now-older knees!

 

[trecile]

The pilgrim office in SJPDP recommends not to take the forest route. The alternate is quite beautiful.

It seems that the staff of the Pilgrim's office always has a story of someone who sprained an ankle or broke their arm just the day before, so I have always taken their advice (4 times) and walked the gentle way to the right. After reading @John Crawford Howell's account in post #11, I think that I made the right decision!

 

[RRat]

I have only ever turned right and descended on the road into Ronscevalles assuming it would be too hard on the knees to go the main route. I have an occasional, minor degree of pain in one knee on steep descents. I am wondering just how hard the forest way is. Has anyone done both and have an opinion on which they prefer and why? I’m thinking of giving it a go but only if I’m really missing out by going the longer road way.

I would caution going to the left. There are a few slightly steep sections that are not that steep but always shaded so they stay damp and very slippery. It looks like you're standing on a smooth sandy surface but really it is rock hard with a thin layer of mud. In addition since it is beautifully shaded you lose your sense of level. Only section from SJPDP to Santigo that I saw the necessity of EMTs in a motorized mini ambulance.

 

[John Crawford Howell]

It seems that the staff of the Pilgrim's office always has a story of someone who sprained an ankle or broke their arm just the day before, so I have always taken their advice (4 times) and walked the gentle way to the right. After reading @John Crawford Howell's account in post #11, I think that I made the right decision!

You are a sensible person, Trecile, so of course you made the right decision. I'm a Marine which may explain my, ahem . . . decision.

 

[Ahaj]

You are a sensible person, Trecile, so of course you made the right decision. I'm a Marine which may explain my, ahem . . . decision.

And I’m a cautious retired lawyer so I guess you can see the choice I’m making after all your kind advice!!!

 

[dreaming]

I have walked the forest route 3 times and didn't find it too steep but it does seem to last a long time. I always use walking poles to help my precious knees

 

[John Crawford Howell]

You go, Ahaj! The crucial thing is to stay safe so that each day on the Camino is one in which you rejoice.

 

[Margaret Butterworth]

When I was last there, a local man was sitting beside the start of the forest track advising everyone to take the road. I did this and it wasn't such a busy road at all.

 

[mlhhome]

After leaving St Jean Pied de Port in late 2014, we decided to take the shorter route to Roncesvalles. Huge mistake, our knees hurt and our quads were quivering as we finished. The steep descent and switchbacks will never be forgotten.

 

[trecile]

When I was last there, a local man was sitting beside the start of the forest track advising everyone to take the road. I did this and it wasn't such a busy road at all.

I don't remember ever seeing a vehicle on the road. I've seen plenty of sheep though.

 

[Former member 104756]

I don't remember ever seeing a vehicle on the road. I've seen plenty of sheep though.

View attachment 164602

Same. We saw quite a few vehicles between SJPP and the Col. But none on the 'road' leading down to Roncesvalles.

 

[tbcan]

HI @Ahaj

Last October I walked from SJPP to Roncesvalles for the 4th time. All previous times I took the steep path, but this time I took the alternative. I thoroughly enjoyed it and found it picturesque. I've read descriptions of it as 'walking on the road' but I think that's misleading. It's a very quiet 'road' and much of the time we were on a grassy verge. I wonder if that was your experience. There were some lovely views looking down to Roncesvalles and I liked the entry into Roncesvalles.

The steep path through the forest is atmospheric for sure, but I seem to recall that each time I've walked it I was very focused on how I was walking, and being careful not to trip or slide. I found the alternative more enjoyable in that regard. So, in trying to answer your question, I have enjoyed both but I too have a few knee issues - and if I walk that path again, I will choose 'the road' option again.

I am one of those people who took the forest path inadvertently many years ago- 2009- - despite having been warned by the Pilgrim Office to avoid it. I don't remember the terrain- perhaps I was too tired or because I came upon a film crew complete with people on horseback who looked like they had stepped out of the Middle Ages. When I tried to talk about my experience in Roncesvalles and no one seemed to know what I was talking about, I realized I had taken the "wrong" path!

 

[Antnix1]

I have only ever turned right and descended on the road into Ronscevalles assuming it would be too hard on the knees to go the main route. I have an occasional, minor degree of pain in one knee on steep descents. I am wondering just how hard the forest way is. Has anyone done both and have an opinion on which they prefer and why? I’m thinking of giving it a go but only if I’m really missing out by going the longer road way.

To quote an elderly gentleman who arrived in Roncevalles: "I'm in a lot of pain."

He checked into the hotel for a few nights to recover and I didn't get an update.

Also, a few women were afraid to walk at times and scooted down on their butts.

 

[John Crawford Howell]

To quote an elderly gentleman who arrived in Roncevalles: "I'm in a lot of pain."

That sounds like it was . . . me!

 

[Rick2203]

I’ve gone through the woods twice and I have a bad knee.

I take very short steps, striding no more than the length of my shoe. Shorter sometimes. Baby steps.

And I lean back slightly at the hips.

And I lengthen my poles and always keep them in front of me. Real long poles.

And I zigzagged a little. The trail is often wide enough for this.

Never allow your momentum to build. Pause between steps on the steepest parts, a split second will do.

And it was a lovely walk both times, and one time it was wet and rainy.

 

[alhartman]

ALWAYS take the safest route!! It is a wonderful 35 day walk not to be ruined by impatience or shortcuts.
Down to Roncesvalles
Downhill into Zubiri.
Downhill into Molinaseca.
Some paths down from Vilacha.
Come to mind.

 

[John Crawford Howell]

I’ve gone through the woods twice and I have a bad knee.

I take very short steps, striding no more than the length of my shoe. Shorter sometimes. Baby steps.

And I lean back slightly at the hips.

And I lengthen my poles and always keep them in front of me. Real long poles.

And I zigzagged a little. The trail is often wide enough for this.

Never allow your momentum to build. Pause between steps on the steepest parts, a split second will do.

And it was a lovely walk both times, and one time it was wet and rainy.

Proof that poetry does not have to rhyme!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I have taken the forest path both times into Roncesvalles and cannot recall any problems; possibly because I was so excited to arrive there, and also had beautiful weather and a dry path both times.