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Has Cafe con leche changed in Spain?

motero99

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances 2019
Camino Portugues (2023)
I completed the Camino Portugues 3 weeks ago. During my time in Portugal, I noticed that the cafe con leche did not taste the same as I remembered in Spain. Different country, different way of doing things, I get that. After crossing into Galicia, the cafe con leche tasted basically the same as in Portugal. Some months ago there was a discussion here as to what caused the distinctive taste in Spanish cafe con leche. I did not comment, but felt it was due to that nasty UHT milk that is ubiquitous in Spain. I started looking at the how they were making the coffee in Galicia and noticed that it appeared to be fresh milk instead of UHT. Finally in Santiago I asked at the churreria very close to Casa Ivar. They told me they were using fresh milk. I did not have another cafe con leche until the train station below Puerta del Sol. That coffee had the familiar taste. I looked towards the coffee machine and saw the they had the UHT boxes. In the past, fresh milk was very expensive in Spain. Is it just Galicia or parts of Galicia that has switched to fresh milk or is it more common in Spain?

Second question, how do you turn off spell check on this website? I had to go through this email 3 times before I could get it to take leche instead of changing it to leech.
 
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I can’t answer the milk question but I have also noticed a difference in café con leche over the years. And one part of it is that they are putting less café into their machines.

In the typical Spanish bar, the routine is the same — turn over the filled coffee piece, whack it several times against the depository, take the more or less empty coffee piece over to the machine where the ground coffee is, and put in the coffee. For many many years, the standard I observed everywhere was that the bar operator filled the coffee piece with at least two ”clicks” of coffee. In recent years, that has gone down to one. Keeping the price down by saving on ingredients, I’m assuming. I am now totally used to it, but I remember thinking several years ago that the coffee seemed much weaker to me, and after careful observation, this was the explanation I came up with.

I will pay attention to the UHT vs. fresh milk question next time!
 
Second question, how do you turn off spell check on this website? I had to go through this email 3 times before I could get it to take leche instead of changing it to leech.
I've never come across spell checking on the website. It is normally a function of your own operating system or software.
 
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Second question, how do you turn off spell check on this website? I had to go through this email 3 times before I could get it to take leche instead of changing it to leech.

I've never come across spell checking on the website. It is normally a function of your own operating system or software.
@Bradypus is correct. Spell check/autocorrect is a function of your phone or computer. You should be able to add words to the dictionary of your phone or computer.
 
UHT milk to me has a sweeter taste and a slightly different "mouthfeel" (more smoothly fatty, if you will) than fresh, as a result of the processing.

Between that and fewer grounds, does that account for your differences?

(I'll be disappointed in September, but I'll learn to get over it... 😉
 
There is a chance that what you are tasting are the results of how Spanish coffee is actually made. They use a somewhat unique preservation called Torrefacto, which is the practice of adding sugar to coffee beans during the roasting process. The sugar burns and the beans wind up coated in a shiny black film that preserves them. However, the sugar subsequently burns during the roasting process resulting in that burnt or bitter flavor you can often taste in Spanish coffee. (Depending on the mix of beans used by the establishment, the more bitter the coffee can be).

Apparently, the process became popular post-war to deal with coffee scarcity. Adding sugar to the roasting process extended the coffee, masked the quality of the coffee and gave the impression of a strong, black cup. This way companies could use cheaper coffee beans, or other ingredients entirely, allowing them to use less coffee without the consumer noticing.

I love the cafe con leches in Spain, but I will admit to liberal sugar usage as I think coffee is bitter in general. I have also purchased the Spanish beans just because I do enjoy that hint of burnt sugar You may be one of those super-tasters who are extremely sensitive to certain tastes and the UHT may just set your taste buds off. And it is very possible that fresh milk does a better job as masking the bitterness.

Good luck!
 
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There is a chance that what you are tasting are the results of how Spanish coffee is actually made. They use a somewhat unique preservation called Torrefacto, which is the practice of adding sugar to coffee beans during the roasting process. The sugar burns and the beans wind up coated in a shiny black film that preserves them. However, the sugar subsequently burns during the roasting process resulting in that burnt or bitter flavor you can often taste in Spanish coffee. (Depending on the mix of beans used by the establishment, the more bitter the coffee can be).

Apparently, the process became popular post-war to deal with coffee scarcity. Adding sugar to the roasting process extended the coffee, masked the quality of the coffee and gave the impression of a strong, black cup. This way companies could use cheaper coffee beans, or other ingredients entirely, allowing them to use less coffee without the consumer noticing.

I love the cafe con leches in Spain, but I will admit to liberal sugar usage as I think coffee is bitter in general. I have also purchased the Spanish beans just because I do enjoy that hint of burnt sugar You may be one of those super-tasters who are extremely sensitive to certain tastes and the UHT may just set your taste buds off. And it is very possible that fresh milk does a better job as masking the bitterness.

Good luck!
Thank you for this generous share!
 
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UHT milk is simply subject to ultra high pasteurization giving it a longer shelf life. Maybe slightly less creamy, but I can barely tell the difference. If elevated food safety is your thing, UHT is your friend. Cafe con Leche is essentially either a one-shot or two-shot cup of espresso with steamed milk. With that method, the two big factors in taste are the quality of the bean grinder (unlikely to have changed since these things last for decades) and the selection of beans (very likely to have changed at a time where all things have gotten more expensive).

Interesting point about adding sugar to the roast. Hadn’t heard about that before.
 
I completed the Camino Portugues 3 weeks ago. During my time in Portugal, I noticed that the cafe con leche did not taste the same as I remembered in Spain. Different country, different way of doing things, I get that. After crossing into Galicia, the cafe con leche tasted basically the same as in Portugal. Some months ago there was a discussion here as to what caused the distinctive taste in Spanish cafe con leche. I did not comment, but felt it was due to that nasty UHT milk that is ubiquitous in Spain. I started looking at the how they were making the coffee in Galicia and noticed that it appeared to be fresh milk instead of UHT. Finally in Santiago I asked at the churreria very close to Casa Ivar. They told me they were using fresh milk. I did not have another cafe con leche until the train station below Puerta del Sol. That coffee had the familiar taste. I looked towards the coffee machine and saw the they had the UHT boxes. In the past, fresh milk was very expensive in Spain. Is it just Galicia or parts of Galicia that has switched to fresh milk or is it more common in Spain?

Second question, how do you turn off spell check on this website? I had to go through this email 3 times before I could get it to take leche instead of changing it to leech.
I visit Spain on a regular basis since 2003. At that time it was almost impossible to get fresh milk. Later supermarkets like Mercadona had small supplies but often ran out. This improved and then chains such as Aldi also began to carry it. The same is now happening with fresh cream, I can get it reliably in Consum, still challenging in other food shops
I completed the Camino Portugues 3 weeks ago. During my time in Portugal, I noticed that the cafe con leche did not taste the same as I remembered in Spain. Different country, different way of doing things, I get that. After crossing into Galicia, the cafe con leche tasted basically the same as in Portugal. Some months ago there was a discussion here as to what caused the distinctive taste in Spanish cafe con leche. I did not comment, but felt it was due to that nasty UHT milk that is ubiquitous in Spain. I started looking at the how they were making the coffee in Galicia and noticed that it appeared to be fresh milk instead of UHT. Finally in Santiago I asked at the churreria very close to Casa Ivar. They told me they were using fresh milk. I did not have another cafe con leche until the train station below Puerta del Sol. That coffee had the familiar taste. I looked towards the coffee machine and saw the they had the UHT boxes. In the past, fresh milk was very expensive in Spain. Is it just Galicia or parts of Galicia that has switched to fresh milk or is it more common in Spain?

Second question, how do you turn off spell check on this website? I had to go through this email 3 times before I could get it to take leche instead of changing it to leech.
 
Much easier to get now than 20 years ago. All major supermarkets carry it including budget chains like Aldi. Same is happening with fresh cream now, still not available everywhere
 
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I completed the Camino Portugues 3 weeks ago. During my time in Portugal, I noticed that the cafe con leche did not taste the same as I remembered in Spain. Different country, different way of doing things, I get that. After crossing into Galicia, the cafe con leche tasted basically the same as in Portugal. Some months ago there was a discussion here as to what caused the distinctive taste in Spanish cafe con leche. I did not comment, but felt it was due to that nasty UHT milk that is ubiquitous in Spain. I started looking at the how they were making the coffee in Galicia and noticed that it appeared to be fresh milk instead of UHT. Finally in Santiago I asked at the churreria very close to Casa Ivar. They told me they were using fresh milk. I did not have another cafe con leche until the train station below Puerta del Sol. That coffee had the familiar taste. I looked towards the coffee machine and saw the they had the UHT boxes. In the past, fresh milk was very expensive in Spain. Is it just Galicia or parts of Galicia that has switched to fresh milk or is it more common in Spain?

Second question, how do you turn off spell check on this website? I had to go through this email 3 times before I could get it to take leche instead of changing it to leech.
All I can say is that this time I am enjoying it so much more than when I walked the Frances in 2019. It’s soooo good 😊 I’ll take a grande every time ❣️
 
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I haven't read all of these comments, but having recently returned from the Norte I still really enjoyed the Cafe Con Leche, however there was a handful of times I was amazed that my cuppa was even more remarkable and I wondered why.
I will say that when I walked for a month in Portugal, I never felt my coffee was as wonderful as when I am in Spain.
 
In general I wanted more coffee and less milk, but when I asked for that (in fairly reasonable Spanish) they just put water in it.
Did you try asking for a cortado? it’s coffee with just a shot of milk. Or try asking for leche aparte (milk separate) and titrate to your taste
 
Did you try asking for a cortado? it’s coffee with just a shot of milk. Or try asking for leche aparte (milk separate) and titrate to your taste
I didn’t think the milk would be hot if I asked for it aparte. But good idea. A few times I got cortado and corte mixed up and had a nice morning beer. That works too!
 
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Thank you all for the interesting and educational explanations. I also have noticed different flavors and levels of coffee taste all along the CF and beyond. One thing in particular I noticed as I got closer to Santiago is that some cafes offer regular or large cafe con leche. The large don't seem to taste as good to me. My theory is that they just add more milk to make it larger. Now I just order one or two regulars depending on how thirsty I am😋
 
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I've found on my recent extra-lengthy Camino that the coffee varies from one region to the next. Both the brewing of it and the milk if that's your taste.

I only came across one place with raw milk for it, and the dastards refused to sell me a bottle !!

Cofee was absolutely brilliant though ...
 
Thank you all for the interesting and educational explanations. I also have noticed different flavors and levels of coffee taste all along the CF and beyond. One thing in particular I noticed as I got closer to Santiago is that some cafes offer regular or large cafe con leche. The large don't seem to taste as good to me. My theory is that they just add more milk to make it larger. Now I just order one or two regulars depending on how thirsty I am😋
I found that also! Maybe the grandes are weaker to begin with.
 
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Hola @motero99 your problem with the UHT milk (a fact that I was very surprised to discover that there is virtually no “fresh milk” in Spain), caused me to switch to Cafe Americano, black with one sugar. Cheers
 
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Anyway: IMHO the general standard of coffee in Portugal is exceptional. My assumption has always been that the association with Brazil (where there is ‘an awful lot of coffee’) explains this.
 
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I didn’t think the milk would be hot if I asked for it aparte. But good idea. A few times I got cortado and corte mixed up and had a nice morning beer. That works too!
Ha ha ha! I've definitely had more than one morning beer in Spain and Portugal. In Calgary we sometimes refer to beer as a 'barley sandwich', referring, of course, to beer's nutritional value. Cheers!🍻
 
I getz a drop-down underneath (using Safari on a Mac) and I have to select the x to stop it spell-correcting (see pic attached). I think it is a browser/operating system feature so your experience may differ.
 

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I completed the Camino Portugues 3 weeks ago. During my time in Portugal, I noticed that the cafe con leche did not taste the same as I remembered in Spain. Different country, different way of doing things, I get that. After crossing into Galicia, the cafe con leche tasted basically the same as in Portugal. Some months ago there was a discussion here as to what caused the distinctive taste in Spanish cafe con leche. I did not comment, but felt it was due to that nasty UHT milk that is ubiquitous in Spain. I started looking at the how they were making the coffee in Galicia and noticed that it appeared to be fresh milk instead of UHT. Finally in Santiago I asked at the churreria very close to Casa Ivar. They told me they were using fresh milk. I did not have another cafe con leche until the train station below Puerta del Sol. That coffee had the familiar taste. I looked towards the coffee machine and saw the they had the UHT boxes. In the past, fresh milk was very expensive in Spain. Is it just Galicia or parts of Galicia that has switched to fresh milk or is it more common in Spain?

Second question, how do you turn off spell check on this website? I had to go through this email 3 times before I could get it to take leche instead of changing it to leech.
Having read all the responses you've received to this post, might I suggest you try your coffee black?
I did this a few years ago and have never looked back!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Thank you for the browser settings info. I have not had the spell check change spanish on other websites, so I assumed it was a forum setting.
I am still shaking my head at those who seemed to say UHT milk was ok. I had it for the first time in 1975 on my first visit to Spain. I had just left Venezuela after working there for 2 years. Fresh milk was readily available there. In fact during my travels around South America during those 2 years, fresh milk was readily available everywhere except Peru. After tasting the UHT milk, horrible stuff in my opinion, I thought the Spanish were pretty backward. Tried the UHT milk again on trips to Spain in 78 and 82. It was still nasty in my opinion. Didn't try it in 86 as I had learned my lesson. I don't remember drinking cafe con leche on any of those trips. I really enjoyed cafe con leche on my 2019 Camino Frances. This year on the Portugues, the cafe con leite was somewhat bland. I was surprised after crossing into Spain that the cafe con leche in Galicia tasted somewhat bland. Maybe as someone said, the ration of coffee to milk has changed in the large cup.
 
The grandes/larges are only 1 shot of coffee and more milk. Not a double shot of coffee...
Around here that doesn't seem to be the case. I was talking to one pilgrim who wanted two shots of espresso in one cup with a little milk and seemed to be having trouble getting it. He saw another pilgrim get two shots in one cup and asked for that (with "poco leche") and finally got what he was looking for. We asked the pilgrim what he had ordered to get the two shots in one cup: a grande.
 
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My wife and I have been travelling to Italy for 30 years and noticed that the coffee quality there had deteriorated over the years. Then a couple of years ago we read an article in the NYT talking about this very point. In Italy, people were used to going into a bar and getting a coffee by putting down a one euro coin, sometimes even getting some small change back. With time and inflation, bar owners attempted to raise the price of a coffee, but when they did, the Italians balked and went to other bars that hadn't raised prices. The Italian solution was to buy cheaper coffee. The NYT writer who wrote the article said that in the past Italian coffee was much better than American, but that Americans have learned how to roast and serve coffee and that American coffee in high end coffee shops was better than Italian. Perhaps the same phenomena has happened in Spain. Cheaper coffee.
 
My wife and I have been travelling to Italy for 30 years and noticed that the coffee quality there had deteriorated over the years. Then a couple of years ago we read an article in the NYT talking about this very point. In Italy, people were used to going into a bar and getting a coffee by putting down a one euro coin, sometimes even getting some small change back. With time and inflation, bar owners attempted to raise the price of a coffee, but when they did, the Italians balked and went to other bars that hadn't raised prices. The Italian solution was to buy cheaper coffee. The NYT writer who wrote the article said that in the past Italian coffee was much better than American, but that Americans have learned how to roast and serve coffee and that American coffee in high end coffee shops was better than Italian. Perhaps the same phenomena has happened in Spain. Cheaper coffee.
I'm horrified to hear this, Tony, although I found the coffee wonderful when I was last in Italy just over a month ago (I lived there for 7 years from '99 & like you am a frequent visitor).

I also lived in Pollensa, Majorca, for the two years prior to my Italian sojourn, where my morning cafe con leche was always excellent.

I walked the Camino Frances from St Jean PdP, starting on 23 March this year, very much looking forward to good coffee. I thought it varied from quite good to undrinkable, not even as good as the Nespresso Pro stuff I drink at home (which I describe as "consistent mediocrity").

One of the two disappointments of my otherwise sublimely wonderful Camino experience.
 
I completed the Camino Portugues 3 weeks ago. During my time in Portugal, I noticed that the cafe con leche did not taste the same as I remembered in Spain. Different country, different way of doing things, I get that. After crossing into Galicia, the cafe con leche tasted basically the same as in Portugal. Some months ago there was a discussion here as to what caused the distinctive taste in Spanish cafe con leche. I did not comment, but felt it was due to that nasty UHT milk that is ubiquitous in Spain. I started looking at the how they were making the coffee in Galicia and noticed that it appeared to be fresh milk instead of UHT. Finally in Santiago I asked at the churreria very close to Casa Ivar. They told me they were using fresh milk. I did not have another cafe con leche until the train station below Puerta del Sol. That coffee had the familiar taste. I looked towards the coffee machine and saw the they had the UHT boxes. In the past, fresh milk was very expensive in Spain. Is it just Galicia or parts of Galicia that has switched to fresh milk or is it more common in Spain?

Second question, how do you turn off spell check on this website? I had to go through this email 3 times before I could get it to take leche instead of changing it to leech.
Yes there is a lack of torrefacto coffee as someone else mentioned. Many don't even know what it is any more. It used to be 50 50 mix and maybe 75.25 for the stronger more bitter coffee. I've even noticed some Expresso machines on the Camino using kcups for the coffee!
That said.... I lived in Costa Rica in the 80s and the coffee growers then said they sent the best coffee to Europe. Second best for Costa Rica and left overs for the USA...and Maxwell house. I suspect that has changed now with Starbucks and so many boutique coffee shops here, and the Spaniards still wanting the 1 euro cafe con leche no matter how bad.

My home recipe to imitate good cafe con leche (I lived in Spain for over a decade) is 50% French roast, 50% medium Cuban (Costco sales!), fine ground and using a stovetop espresso maker. Half coffee and half heated milk. Been doing it for years now. It will get you going in the morning for sure.
 
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Having read all the responses you've received to this post, might I suggest you try your coffee black?
I did this a few years ago and have never looked back!
I tried that on the Norte last year; huge mistake! I'm fairly new to hot drinks and coffee in particular but I've discovered I like black coffee.
So last year I'd go into a bar and ask for a large Americano and when asked if I wanted milk, I'd say no thank you. Then I'd be corrected and told that was an a cafe solo.
The next day I'd ask for a large cafe solo and would be corrected and told that was an Americano! This went on and on for over 30 days. I eventually snapped and mentioned this to an English speaking lady behind the counter just after Arzua but she got talking about when she lived in England and I never did find out what I should have ordered.
This year, on the Via de la Plata I ordered a cafe con leche every day; I'd learnt my lesson!
Incidentally, there's a bar on the corner of the main road through Vilanueva de Las Peras, near Zamora on the VdlP that serves coffee in a proper sized mug and serves delicious food too. That was my favourite cafe of all my Caminos, it was that good.
 
I have tried to get used to black coffee on and off over the years, but no can do.😝 I also have tried it black with only sugar, but no can do. Both of those options are healthier, but I must have a teaspoon of sugar and quite a lot of cream or I would rather not drink coffee at all.
 
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Had my first cafe con leche for a while a few hours ago upon arrival in Roncesvalles. To me, it tasted as delicious as ever. Now I'm hoping there's trout on the menu tonight.
 
@John Cook - I have always just had black coffee. And I think I have used "cafe americano" to order on my past caminos.
But I was actually thinking I should switch to cafe con leche since it seems to be such an important part of peoples caminos. Am I missing out on something. Cafe con leche also sound so much more as a camino drink, than cafe ameriacano :D ;)😂
 
@John Cook - I have always just had black coffee. And I think I have used "cafe americano" to order on my past caminos.
But I was actually thinking I should switch to cafe con leche since it seems to be such an important part of peoples caminos. Am I missing out on something. Cafe con leche also sound so much more as a camino drink, than cafe ameriacano :D ;)😂
At least you won't get corrected 😀! A Camino drink I've enjoyed on previous Caminos was hot chocolate and Jack Daniels with my breakfast. I was never corrected with that drink 😋.
 
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@John Cook - I have always just had black coffee. And I think I have used "cafe americano" to order on my past caminos.
But I was actually thinking I should switch to cafe con leche since it seems to be such an important part of peoples caminos. Am I missing out on something. Cafe con leche also sound so much more as a camino drink, than cafe ameriacano :D ;)😂
I've always been a black coffee drinker - 50+ years. But when on the camino, it's Cafe con Leche every morning! 🥰
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I tried that on the Norte last year; huge mistake! I'm fairly new to hot drinks and coffee in particular but I've discovered I like black coffee.
So last year I'd go into a bar and ask for a large Americano and when asked if I wanted milk, I'd say no thank you. Then I'd be corrected and told that was an a cafe solo.
The next day I'd ask for a large cafe solo and would be corrected and told that was an Americano! This went on and on for over 30 days
heh -- in some pueblos it's an Americano, and in others it's a solo grande. Then there are the odd places where the two exist simultaneously, the "proper" solo grande being something like a double espresso with the strength of a single but double size so double the caffeine, whereas the Americano is more like a French café long, same amount of ground coffee but more diluted.

A proper solo grande should be the equivalent of two (or three) proper espressos or cafes solos in a larger cup.
 
I can’t answer the milk question but I have also noticed a difference in café con leche over the years. And one part of it is that they are putting less café into their machines.

In the typical Spanish bar, the routine is the same — turn over the filled coffee piece, whack it several times against the depository, take the more or less empty coffee piece over to the machine where the ground coffee is, and put in the coffee. For many many years, the standard I observed everywhere was that the bar operator filled the coffee piece with at least two ”clicks” of coffee. In recent years, that has gone down to one. Keeping the price down by saving on ingredients, I’m assuming. I am now totally used to it, but I remember thinking several years ago that the coffee seemed much weaker to me, and after careful observation, this was the explanation I came up with.

I will pay attention to the UHT vs. fresh milk question next time!
A few years ago I had to stop the cafe con leche as they made me feel sickly so I switched to americano with a splash of milk
Now after reading these posts I know why!

It’s the long life milk and only one shot of coffee instead of two.
On this Camino, every time we stopped for a coffee, I watched as they made the cafe con leche and ..every time it was one shot of coffee regardless of the cup size, and filled up with long life milk

Indeed, more leche con cafe than cafe con leche

These days, I just bring my own tea bags
This milky drink was from a cafe in Villafranca ..yuk IMG_5803.jpeg
 
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I was thinking about this thread when I enjoyed a delicious, rich cafe con leche in Bar Fronton Burguete this morning. I considered that people's taste buds must have changed as my coffee was excellent. However. In the next village of Espinal, I ordered cafe con leche from the very nice new looking hostal bar directly next to the church (Basque Irati) and the experience was totally different; very poor, weak coffee for 2 Euros as well as a croissant for 2.50, served directly by the manager's hands immediately after coughing into said hand and blowing his nose. So, I reconsidered. There are definitely changes in some places.
 
So how does one order a large sized cup of coffee (or cafe con leche) with two shots worth of caffeine?

I've heard:
  • cafe solo grande
  • cafe americano grande
and my favorite from a previous post
  • "café fuerte caliente muy grande con leche".
Any others?

Or maybe better, how do you ask for two shots in whatever kind of coffee you're drinking?
 
So how does one order a large sized cup of coffee (or cafe con leche) with two shots worth of caffeine?

I've heard:
  • cafe solo grande
  • cafe americano grande
and my favorite from a previous post
  • "café fuerte caliente muy grande con leche".
Any others?

Or maybe better, how do you ask for two shots in whatever kind of coffee you're drinking?
When I asked for a cafe con leche grande on this Camino, it had two shots of coffee.
 
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So seriously, how does one ask in Spanish for two shots when ordering coffee? "Dos ____, por favor". I don't want to end up with flesh wounds or injections. o_O
 
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