León to Astorga: via Villar de Mazarife or San Martín del Camino?

[John Finn]

I'm wondering which route to take for this two-day stretch - Brierley recommends one stage from León to Villar de Mazarife and then the next stage from there to Astorga. The alternative would be to go from León to San Martín del Camino and thence on to Astorga the next day. I'm guessing Brierley's recommendation is to the one to go with as the San Martín route skirts the busy N-120. Any thoughts?

 

[jpflavin1]

I'm wondering which route to take for this two-day stretch - Brierley recommends one stage from León to Villar de Mazarife and then the next stage from there to Astorga. The alternative would be to go from León to San Martín del Camino and thence on to Astorga the next day. I'm guessing Brierley's recommendation is to the one to go with as the San Martín route skirts the busy N-120. Any thoughts?

John:

Take the route that avoids the road. This will ensure you see Davids Oasis along the road. That said, if it is raining it can get a little muddy on this section.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[jsalt]

On my first Camino Francés I aimed to stay in Valverde (by the N120), but when I got there the albergue was not only closed (although the leaflet from the Pilgrims Office said it was “open”), it was also up for sale . I had no choice but to keep on walking. I had rain and wind coming straight at me and trucks hurtling past, drenching me in the puddles. Not only that, but it was late afternoon, the storm was localised and the sun was shining straight in my eyes . I swore I would never walk that route again, which is a shame, because the albergue at Villadangos was quite nice.
Jill

 

[Giselleontour]

We walked the route via Villar de Mazarife and enjoyed it very much. Highly recommended. Buen camino John.

 

[Devon Mike]

About 7kms out from the centre of Leon you will get to La Virgen del Camino. From there you have a choice of walking alongside the N120 for 23kms to Hospital de Orbigo, or take the alternative off to the left which goes through Villar de Mazarife and rejoins the road route just before Hospital de Orbigo. This alternative is only 6kms longer and much more pleasant with Villar de Mazarife being a good place to stay.

From Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga again there is a 16kms walk alongside the N120 with no facilities for the first 12kms and which should be avoided. Instead take the alternative off to the right through Villares de Orbigo and Santibanez de Valdeiglesias. This rejoins the road route shortly before San Justo de la Vega 4kms before Astorga. Both options from Hospital de Orbigo are around 12kms so an easy choice.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

We walked the route via Villar de Mazarife and enjoyed it very much. Highly recommended. Buen camino John.

Same here. One thing that I liked about this way was finally getting a chance to see wild meadows mixed in with the farm fields.

 

[mspath]

Villar de Mazarife is a much more pleasant path!

Leaving Leon it is only 7 km to La Virgen del Camino and an extraordinary 20th century church. The town is named for a famous 15th century figure of the Virgin holding the dead body of Christ. Today the figure is in a splendid church designed in the 1960s by a Dominican monk, Francisco Coello, a follower of the Brutalist style of Le Corbusier. Located directly on the Camino Frances at Av Astorga, 87, in the midst of chaotic suburb the church is a superbly maintained architectural gem as well as a haven of peace. Be sure to enter it; the calm interior is splendidly lit with deep chrome yellow glass.

Opposite the church you can choose to either continue on the main camino which parallels the highway or pick up the peaceful alternative camino route going slightly southwest towards Villar de Mazarife. It is always very pleasant to escape the N120 highway noise and suburban sprawl while crossing wide flat plains up to V de M where there are several pilgrim albergues and regular accommodation. From V d M the alternative camino continues to Hospital de Órbigo to rejoin the main CF. You can read more about the alternative more rural route in this earlier Forum thread .

Hospital de Orbigo offers many accommodation options; my favorite is the Albergue Verde. They accept reservations and offer wonderful group meals each evening. Leaving HdO turn right to follow the camino towards Astorga via Santibanez de Valdeiglesias on a rolling rural path.

Buen camino!

 

[John Finn]

Thanks Margaret. I will make a point of visiting that chuech!

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Leaving Leon it is only 7 km to La Virgen del Camino and an ]extraordinary 20th century church.
...
in the midst of chaotic suburb the church is a superbly maintained architectural gem as well as a haven of peace. Be sure to enter it; the calm interior is splendidly lit with deep chrome yellow glass.

A not particularly good picture of the interior:

 

[Arthur Kelly]

Last March we walked via Mazarife, stayed at San Antonio de Padua, loved the walk and the accommodation. Hope to to the same later this month.
Buen Camino
Arthur

 

[Mark Lee]

I've walked both, and both were nice, but personally I like the San Martin del Camino route better.
One of my favorite memories of that route is in San Miguel, a small village on the way to San Martin del Camino. An older gentleman whose home is on the Camino on that route, has a table and bench set out for pilgrims to take a break. He has water on the table as well as biscuits and candy. He also has a logbook for pilgrims to sign in. I was taking five on the bench, munching on some biscuits when he came outside, got some fresh water and had me fill my bottles with it. So cool. He also has his own stamp/sello with his name and address on it. I stamped my credentials with it, and when I got to Santiago I sent him a postcard from there with St James on it.

 

[VNwalking]

What Devonmike and Mspath said.
I've not walked to HdO along the highway, because the alternate route's so lovely, and busy roads don't thrill me--but from HdO to Astorga I've done both ways and the alternate way is far nicer, unless it's muddy.
As Mspath says, do visit the church at Virgen el Camino. It's very special.

 

[Felipe]

Some comments...
I found the Villar de Mazarife variant quite pleasant. There are some villages with public fountains and spaces for the rest of walkers -you feel welcomed.
Just 1 km before Villar de Mazarife there is a kind of pond at your rigth, a very pleasant place in a generally dry (in summer) landscape.
In Mazarife, I stayed in albergue Casa de Jesús. I liked it very much, but it is kind of "alternative" (you are invited to express yourself grafitting the walls). It is very favored by young walkers. There are other, more conventional albergues, some of them brand-new.
After Villavante, when you walk over the highway, there are arrows (painted in the pavement) indicating that you turn left and cross the road. I was not the only bewildered pilgrim, because this did not seem logic. I went straight and in a few minutes arrived at Orbigo.
For some personal reasons that I still regret very much, after Orbigo I took the shorter way to Astorga. At first there is a nice local road, but very soon the way goes along the highroad. I was a dreary walk. I don't know the alternative by Villares de Órbigo and Santibáñez, but it looks much better and it is recommended by most guides.
Buen camino!

 

[C clearly]

I found the walk through Villadangos and San Martin to be one of the most tedious stretches on the whole camino. However, as Mark Lee illustrates, it only takes one special experience to make that stage wonderful and another stage tedious!

 

[Giselleontour]

In Villar de Mazarife we stood in lovely Albergue San Antonio de Padua. Just a wonderful stay. It has a beautiful garden and is highly recommend by us.

 

[Deleted member 12253]

I'm wondering which route to take for this two-day stretch - Brierley recommends one stage from León to Villar de Mazarife and then the next stage from there to Astorga. The alternative would be to go from León to San Martín del Camino and thence on to Astorga the next day. I'm guessing Brierley's recommendation is to the one to go with as the San Martín route skirts the busy N-120. Any thoughts?

Avoid road route at all cost. David upped and gone.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I am having coffee in San Martin right now after staying in Villadangas last night. After three times on each route, Mazarife is the "quieter" route. Jesus is an acquired taste, but Padua and Tio Pepe are traditional and very friendly.

The albergue in Villadangos is one of the basic ones, but quite acceptable. Hotel Avenida II is clean and quiet for €25 a single.

I was surprised to find three Albergues in San Martin open and with one or to pilgrims in each. They are expecting an early season perhaps.

 

[John Finn]

Thanks everyone for your replies. I think I'll take the Mazarife route. And to falcon269 who is on the trail right now: Buen Camino!

 

[VNwalking]

In Villar de Mazarife we stood in lovely Albergue San Antonio de Padua. Just a wonderful stay. It has a beautiful garden and is highly recommend by us.

Same experience here, twice. I can't recommend it enough. [Edit...and the food is delicious AND vegetarian--I stopped here for lunch on my first Camino and it was not what I expected. Such a nice surprise!]

And...Buen Camino, @falcon269!!
You just made a whole slew of people envious, even if you didn't go via Mazarife.
We don't like the highway...nonono...but we'd all be there in an eye-blink if we could be.

 

[Kanga]

Good choice. I also like the route through Mazarife, and the garden in the albergue San Antonio de Padua is a pleasant oasis on a hot day.

 

[Magnara]

Good choice. I also like the route through Mazarife, and the garden in the albergue San Antonio de Padua is a pleasant oasis on a hot day.

Hey Kanga, I heard you on the radio on James Valentine's show.

 

[Kanga]

Eek. I was pretty poor.

 

[SabsP]

I also took the route via Villar de Mazarife last week. Beautiful and quiet ..and even dry ( that day )
I chose to stay at albergue Tio Pepe, only one other pilgrim and I. Warm and cozy and good food.
The younger pilgrims stayed indeed at the Jesus albergue, no one at the Padua one.
Day after I stopped at the warm haven of the albergue in Villares de Orbigo. And I was able to meet the warm and generous David from Casa de los Dioses who is back again!!!

 

[Mikel Olivares]

I suggest: From Leon to Hospital de Orbigo passing through Villar de Mazarife.
And from Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga by the road of the mount, not by the road N120. So you will have the opportunity to meet David.